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Everything posted by Weedeater

  1. Hey Dave, if you're talking about the Fujimi 12th Gixxer, you bet I'm watching that one. It's about time that someone kits a mid 80's GSXR. It's either an 87 or 88 Yosh. Waaaayyyy COOL!
  2. COOOLLLLL!!! Another bike builder here. This is sweet lookin. Love the gloss finish. Model on, Fellow two wheel enthusiast.
  3. - My guess is that a reference book that you would want to lay on top of or next to your work bench while you are working on your subject (a model) has a tendency to stay open on the pages you lay it open to when the book is in the "landscape" format (so to speak) verses the "portrait" format. This lends itself to freeing up your hands to work on the subject and also not needing to prop it open. At least, this is how it works out for my model building/reference needs.
  4. - From personal experience I have never preferred Micro Mask over other products (like Canopy Mask, Super Mask, Magic Mask, or Miracle Mask). Micro Mask applies well, dries well, and I always thought it was translucent enough to see through it to cut canopy frames well enough. But that is where my preference stops. It is one of the more difficult liquid masks to cut through on the first "pass" of a cutting tool, even when using a new scalpel blade and it often requires another pass or two to get thru it (I find scalpels MUCH sharper than even new X-actos). - The next criteria where it lets me down is when I pull the cut areas off where I want to apply paint. Even after meticulous cutting, there will always be that little corner that you want to stay down, but ends up pulling up slightly as you remove the portion you want to take off. All of the other masks that I noted were very forgiving in that you could gently press the corner back into place that you wanted to stay down and.....it stayed down. IMHO Micro Mask notoriously does not stick back down anywhere near as good as the other masks. And that usually results in over spray on the corners when you airbrush your colors. The good news is that if you catch the over spray soon enough and before you gloss or flat coat, you can quite often gently scrub the offending over spray with a tooth pick and it comes right off. - Also, I find Micro Mask to be more stiffer and less rubbery and flexible then the other Masks noted. - Unfortunately, EVERY one of the masks I have listed have all gone off the market. About 5 years ago I was able to make contact with the fellow that produced Miracle Mask and he was willing to mix up a batch and sell a minimum of 10 bottles of it. That works if ya got a few friends that are interested in acquiring a bottle of it also. But each of my bottles would usually last a couple of years and I could only get use of no more than 3 bottles before it would turn to goo! - So, there's my 2 or 3 cents. Hope it helps
  5. :( Dam TreadHeads. We gotta get yer mind re-conditioned to the lighter side of modeling. LOL. Seriously though, thanks for making the enormous effort to get the pics and then posting 'em.
  6. Wow, Michael. That's impressive. But it gets even MORE impressive when you put the model into perspective with that penny right next to it. From the beginning, I thought that this was 24th scale. Now I'm thinkin it is 43rd or maybe even 64th. Awesome finishing job. Thanks for sharing it with us.
  7. Peter, Not sure if you are familiar with the phrase, "Peter, you sick bitch!" It is meant to be a multiple reference between friends, brothers, comrades, from one to the other of envy, amazement, humor and approval while still maintaining a "manly" posture without showing too much signs of weakness. It also conveys a sense of wonder at how you achieve such superb results where most craftsman would have gone crazy and given up, especially in such an unusual medium, paper! In this case, this is how I am applying the phrase. Your work is incredible and magnificent and I appreciate you posting your progress, "You sick Bitch, you."
  8. Awwwww......now, now Mike, don't be so hard on yourself. We still think there is some intelligence there. Not sure how much, but at least some . Model on, Oh tolerant Brother of the Sprue.
  9. - Mark, from one Wingy Thingy nut job to a fellow TreadHead of the plastic craft, these new postings are awesome. Many thanks to you for getting 'em and to Mike for posting 'em. - I am especially interested in the MiG-29. It is marked as the last MiG-29 that flew in East German diamond markings (to be Re-marked in West German cross markings) as Germany celebrated their Re-unification, or something like that. My question to you, was there any signage (besides the one pic you did get that covers the description of the general MiG-29) or some curator there that could confirm if this aircraft is, in fact, THEE commemorative aircraft? Or is it a replica paint scheme? (Yeah, I know this may be a lot to be asking a TreadHead, but ya gotta jump in at some point, Hee hee).
  10. - FWIW, all three links are working on my end. Thanks to all that were involved with getting these images and then posting them. You guyz ROCK! - Even more so, I had known previously about the walk around galleries for a while now, but never took the time to visit them. Now that I have seen them, I'm wondering what kept me from looking at them sooner. They are awesome. I especially love the display presentation of the M47 lifted up asymmetrically on those cement bases. - Mark, (or anyone else) on the M45C2 quad .50's ammo drums, I had always thought that the entire drum (box bottom, half circled top) was filled with ammo. Looking closer at them in these pics, it looks like the top half is an internal wheeled feeding affair and maybe the bottom half is used to catch the expended cartridges. Which is correct?
  11. Weedeater


    Yes, I totally agree with Mark, this is way cool. And I love that you spiced-up an old Tamiya mold with the "fuselage" modification. Paul, you have shown your true "aircraft modeler" colors with that one, LOL. And in further agreement with Mark, I too am thinking about pully one of my Dinos outta the stash to work on, after seeing this little gem. Thanks for sharing it.
  12. Fellow Aviation modelers, - Do any of you have a copy of Scale Aviation Modeller International, Vol 3 No 9? This is the cover (from SAM website): - As seen on the cover, it includes articles on the Beaufighter and Bf-109E. It also includes an article on the Scimitar and the "Colour & Marking Notepad" by Michael Payne. I would like to know what the subject is in these "Colour & Marking" photos. Are they of the Scimitar or some other aircraft? It usually is not any of the other aircraft that are featured in the particular issue. What ever the subject that is covered in these photos is most likely the model kit that I left my issue of the mag with! And that is the whole point of my request. I know I have this issue, I just can't find it. Any help from yuz guyz will be deeply appreciated, thanks.
  13. I pretty much follow the exact steps that Keith P. has listed with a small modification that hasn't really been noted here..... - If I have several colors lined up that need airbrushing (as many as 6 or 7), I quite often will apply them all in one sitting, where I only do a general wiping of the siphon cup with a rag and Q-tip and then flush the airbrush with one or two cup fulls of lacquer thinner in between each color. Each cup full is accompanied by a good wiping/sloshing around with an extra dedicated airbrush large mixing paint brush. - Once I am finished with the session, then I do the total tear-down cleaning of the airbrush and cup with Q-tips, pipe cleaners and these nifty fine pointed foam like Q-tip cleaners that I came across in a beauty supply store. If during a session I need to apply a coating of paint or gloss/flat coat that I really don't want to get bunged up with boogers from the airbrush, I do a full cleaning right before the application. - On rare occasions, I can and have left the airbrush sit without the full tear-down cleaning. Usually after using enamels. But I never leave the airbrush sit without the full monty after I have applied an acrylic and especially after applying Future floor wax. I have had occasions where once either of these were left to dry too long, it was way too difficult to clean out. Even with Lacquer thinner. I've never tried Acetone for fear that it would eat up my rubber seals. Anyways, that's my 2 or 3 cents.
  14. Ditto that. At first, I was wondering why you were posting photos taken from the after market guys advertisement shots on their websites. Then it hit me, your pics here are of your work! But then again, I'm just an aircraft guy pondering a step or two into the dark side again. Teheee!
  15. OK, from an aircraft guy that has dipped his toes into the dark side of modeling on a few occasions, this Tiger build is looking very intriguing. I have numerous versions of Panzer IV's, including four different releases of the H (Italeri, Old Tamiya, New Tamiya and Dragon pre-Zimmerit). I also have three different Zimmerit sets (Eduard PE, Tamiya's PE which I think is Eduard, and a resin cast set) for the H and haven't mustered up the courage to try either of them or just simply apply the putty with tools (which I also have) trick. I'll be watching your build progress to see how I like the PE variant. Thanks for sharing this build Chris.
  16. ROTFLMAO :lol: Stop! Yer killin us.
  17. Ewwwwwwwww..."necklace!" Dick, while your model skills are no where near in question (I think they're quite good) you have-got-to-stop calling Conan's chest plate or war treasure or what ever else....a necklace. Paaa-lezzz. Let's man up here. OK, enough ribbing. Like what we're seein here and looking forward to more, as you go. - While I (perhaps we) would love to see that reddish copper color of Dejah Thoris (John Carter, Warlord of Mars) that would not be right for a "Conan" Damsel. I do like your idea of another tone and will anxiously anticipate her unveiling. Thanks.
  18. - DUKE.....do you have a direct I.V. line hooked up to a gallon jug of Expresso? Or somthin? It bogles the mind how you pump out so many models. I know......maybe I'll scehdule a hotel room over night stay once every week (That seems to be the only way I can finish a model after an "All-Nighter", LOL). That's the only way I could possibly hope to keep up even half of your pace. - Still, ribbing aside, you rock. Thanks for the on-going, non-stop model building express postings. Model on, Dukinator!
  19. .....Black Jelly-beans (licorice) have the same effect! - Dick, I am really enjoying watching your progress here. Thanks for posting your updates. Can't wait to see the Babe work take shape, so to speak. Render away, Brother of the life-form sprue.
  20. Well Keith, - Besides slicing my thumb open on numerous occasions with an X-acto, over the 30 plus years I have been workin on models, I have actually had an X-acto roll off the work bench and skewer my foot. And as if that wasn't enough of an insult, I have also had the X-acto slip off of the work bench and poke (and stick) into my thigh while wearing shorts! Each one happened only one time. Awwwww...lessons learned. - Oh...and let's not forget the numerous wackes on the head while getting up after diving under the workbench to pick up dropped parts - Just thought of another "potential" disaster waiting in the wind......Cyano-acrylates (aka - super glue)....I have, on a few occasions failed to duck the cloud that emanates from curing CA and accelerator. It plays havoc on the eyes and I had wished that I had safety glasses on seconds after I realize what I had just done. So far, there has been no serious or permanent damage. And to myself, a big ole DUUUUU!
  21. - Actually, that is some carefully cut-up and strategically placed Superscale "Railroad" decals. There are several of them throughout the cockpit to mimic photos of the real examples ANNNND to keep the build in-line with OOB! Thanks for noticing the subtle detail and for the awesome compliments, I appreciate it. And for an added teaser, here are a couple other angles to spy more of those railroad decals: Hope you continue to enjoy and thanks for looking.
  22. Albuquerque (including its close sister city Rio Rancho) has 3 model clubs: - Albuquerque Scale Modelers/IPMS (ASM) - Modeling of all genre's - Zia Scale Modelers/IPMS (ZSM) - Modeling focused on Aircraft, Military Vehicles, and Ships with occasional dips into other genres. - Albuquerque Model Car Club (AMCC) - AMCC is strictly dedicated to automotive modeling subject matter (Cars, Trucks, and Motorcycles). While AMCC and ASM maintain cross membership and occasional contact between their leaderships, AMCC does not maintain IPMS affiliation.
  23. Thank you very much Mike. Appreciate the compliment. - Maybe so. I already have the Mk VIII and plan on building it in my Uncle's SEAC markings in Burma. Have photos of it and the artwork for the squadron emblem along with a limited edition painting/print with him flying wing man for the subject aircraft. But I promise......I won't wait until July to start and will finish it BEFORE the hotel room, this time. :D
  24. This site has a few that may be of some help. It's a Navy AD though. HTH. AD-5 Site ....and have you tried Squadrons Walk Around No.27 yet?
  25. - Yes Gil, I suffer from the same Modelholic affliction. To help with my symptoms, I too started an Otaki kit a week before the Nats, as theropy to get away from my Nats contest model builds. Mine is the P-47D Razorback. It is really a nice kit that is only slightly short of Has and Tam quality/detail. Thanks for posting your picks here and over in the Aircraft forum. The George looks great. Kudos for another great endeavor.
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