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Nationals Themed Group Build 1: The Great War

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I'll give it a try. Still thinking about the subject.

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Well, I don't see an artillery piece in the list, so I'll join with the Panzershop 1/35 British 6" BL Howitzer, a resin kit. The gun looks well detailed, but there is absolutely no equipment, ammo, etc, to go along with it, so it'll be somewhat bare bones.. Maybe in the next 4 years, I'll find something.

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I'll start off. I believe you wanted "in progress" shots to prove this isn't something we dragged off the back of a shelf.

Presenting, the 1/72 Airfix Spad VII

 

DSCN3376.jpg

 

DSCN3382.jpg

 

DSCN3378.jpg

 

While it made its first appearance in 1967, this release dates from 1973 so its "only' 41 years old. It will be done OOTB with perhaps the exception of the decals which are pretty yellowed. I'm trying to sun bleach them now, but the sun is not something you see a lot of in Ohio in the winter. They may have to be replaced.

 

So, what does everyone else have?

Edited by Ron Bell

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Combrig HMS Tiger, 1/700 to start off with... Her photo etch and upgrade sets are due in today.

 

This kit came off of eBay at a very reasonable price because the buyer had badly started it. Honestly, the most difficult part of this build will be remedying his work.

 

3AB2BB24-6FD4-4AF8-801B-222F7FBDDE6F_zps

 

4853BA59-3C9C-46D2-A107-365A62BB7048_zps

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That was an expensive "start" on his part.

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Original kit was ~70 bucks. I stole it for $20. :smiley16:

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Here's my unopened kit - a CMR 1:72 scale RAF BE2c

 

Bag Artwork:

BE2c1_zps4d980f0a.jpg

 

Instructions:

BE2c2_zps91571b6e.jpg

 

Drawings (on reverse of Instructions):

BE2c3_zps1ccf8c8d.jpg

 

Resin Parts (including a sheet of 2-part moulded items joined by common flash at the mould seam. Yay.):

BE2c4_zps8f70d33a.jpg

 

First job will be to wash the resin and re-bag it into the conveniently-provided Ziplock bag that the whole lot came in.

 

The upper wing should have dihedral, but it has a bend in the port wing about mid-span, so I'll get some hot water and clamps ready later on.

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Well, this just showed up for the Tiger.

 

E14D329D-08B2-4F4A-98DE-480AA6AE53FB_zps

 

And... :smiley18:

 

Did Chris bite off more than he could chew? Stay Tuned.

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Here are my 2....

005-23.jpg

 

007-13.jpg

The one pictured in the book (above) is the one I'll try to build!

 

This should be interesting, as one of the kits is "new", while the other is "old school". I'll start these in about a week, when I finish the Seat Star.

 

GIL :smiley16:

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Chris, you're going to wind up with more PE than original kit!

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Sign me up for a Dr.1. Here is my kit. Picked it up at the LHS yesterday

 

Dr1_kit.jpg

 

Now the fun begins - for me at least. What markings will I use? Not going to build an all red Fokker. I just got through checking my decal storage and found the following;

- An old Americal Gryphen sheet covering JG II and Jagdstaffel 19. A little crude in spots but interesting.

- One of two old Blue Rider sheets covering Jasta 11 & 27 as well as Jasta 2. Some very nice schemes. or

- A recent sheet from Pheon Decals also covering JG II. Beautiful decals and interesting markings. Hummm

 

Decals.jpg

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And here's mine.

 

ps35-6inblhow_01-boxart.jpg

 

As you can see the kit is 10 years old ...

 

Here are the parts, per instruction layout, and themselves. The two parts #52 are circled because they are missing. After a while I figured out they are just brake shoes and I can fabricate them if needed. I did email Panzershop and got a response next day, so I am hopeful they will show sometime ...

 

ps35-6inblhow_02-parts.jpg

 

ps35-6inblhow_03-parts.jpg

 

I washed them and inspected them in detail a few days ago, which is when I found it was missing parts. The parts look pretty good, well-cast, good runners, no warpage. There are no part numbers on the runners so you must match shape to the provided sketch.

 

 

The instructions consist of 3 more pictures like these two - an assembled model with part numbers called out, but no instructions of any sort. It's not complicated but one would like to know of any "do this first or else" issues.

 

ps35-6inblhow_04-instr.jpg

 

I should start tomorrow; this will be a relaxed build and I have some research to do on the details of the gun itself and the possible gear that would go with it. From what I can see, the gun itself is completely represented, with all the sights, gears, and whatnot present.

 

I am hoping for some WW1 Brit arty crews to be released one of these years ... I also have an 18-pdr needing a crew, well actually two needing crews ...

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First experience with this set: AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

 

Second experience with this set: Acceptance.

 

I'm going to have to change how I build.

 

Plan will be to build her from the keel up, in subassembles where possible. 60% of the superstructure will be brass and FRAGILE. I don't want to damage stuff needlessly.

 

A553336E-8A5F-4D71-BA16-7F6BC0F607F8_zps

 

Done: - Plated much of the hull with PE. It looks a lot better.

- Built part of the bridge, with much dislike. Not only is it small, but the PE doesn't fit right. I'm going to have to fill one ugly seam and try to hide

the inconsistency with the other side.

 

Here's the old bridge:

7EF94CF4-5040-4B3F-8E37-F1863B380FDB_zps

 

Here's the PE substitute. It is a LOT more accurate, but a pain in the ass for sure.

 

1B375E43-ECC9-4254-B499-8F78A0C478E4_zps

 

Also: New turrets are a little small for the barbettes. I'm unsure if I'm going to go with the less accurate Combrig guns that fit or try to make the new turrets fits. Frustrating.

 

I will need until April to finish this....

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This is a simple kit, so the basic stuff went pretty quickly. Fit wasn't bad for as old a kit as it is, but the radiator front took a bit of fiddling with to get it to be seamless with the cylinder covers. Also had to fuss with the struts to get them to fit flush with the upper wing and putty them in. Then primered it and painted the pilot. Gotta use the pilot as there is NO interior.

 

DSCN3400.jpg

 

DSCN3402.jpg

 

Next, I have to pick a color. The instructions show a yellow while the old paint reference calls for "Unpainted linen" and most photos I've found are a yellowish tan. Hmmmmm.

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What paint brands do you use, Ron ? "Unpainted linen" is probably CDL = Clear Doped Linen and there are several very light tans which fit the bill. Of course, French linen may be different than Brit linen color, I don't know ....

 

Does this kit use the old Airfix paint numbers, perhaps M14 Linen Matt ? That would be Humbrol 74 or equivalent, even lightter. I usually use Mister Kit acrylics for WW1 - they may have a French linen, I don't know.

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I've got an assortment of paints from various companies.

 

An on line search for SPAD VII produces photos of one hanging from the ceiling in a museum in the same markings are this kit. The metal parts in front are just plain tan while the fabric appears a yellowish tan, but that also looks more like aging than paint. I don't know if this is the actual aircraft or a recreation, so it might not be worth anything as a reference.

 

I'm not going to obsess about it. I'll use my "good enough" measuring stick.

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And here's my Eduard Bristol F.2B bringing up the rear!

 

IMG_2284.jpg

 

 

IMG_2285.jpg

 

IMG_2286.jpg

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Ron,

Try this link http://www.wwi-models.org/misc/FrenchWW1/SPAD/ylcolor7.html

 

Seems a "fatty varnish in linseed oil was added between the coats of the clear dope, resulting in an overall, "warm" yellow color."

I've got an assortment of paints from various companies.

 

An on line search for SPAD VII produces photos of one hanging from the ceiling in a museum in the same markings are this kit. The metal parts in front are just plain tan while the fabric appears a yellowish tan, but that also looks more like aging than paint. I don't know if this is the actual aircraft or a recreation, so it might not be worth anything as a reference.

 

I'm not going to obsess about it. I'll use my "good enough" measuring stick.

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This sounds like fun. I will be working on USS Rhode Island, a predreadnought which served om Atlantic convoy duty dring the US period f involvement in WWI.

 

Rick

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Today I got the opportunity to start cleaning up parts and studying the photos to see if I could figure out what went where.

 

ps35-6inblhow_10-cleaning.jpg

 

I've got a handle on most of them, but I'll just keep cleaning and fitting until I'm sure. I have to drill out the barrel some more - it has a plug about 1/4" down which is just too obvious.

 

I trolled the 'net for a while and came up with a firing drill manual that has a sketch of the various accessories, and I can scratchbuild them or use generic tools, etc.

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The Rhode Island kit is from Niko, rather than Samek. After I finally got things all written out, it turns out that each of the US old battleship classes are either made by Niko or by Samek, but nothing is made by both manufacturers. Sounds kind like a non-compete agreement, but at this point we are the winner because we have kits for all the classes.

parts_zpsfe0662fb.jpg

This will be my first US cagemast build, so I am hoping for the best.

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Hmm... Neat little ship. The Rhode Island was a bit of an interesting ship. I believe she was the last or one of the last pre-dreadnoughts that the USN built. She and her sister were smaller than the previous class, and IIRC, mainly used up what little tonnage/funds were left. I think we sold them to Greece. I'm really excited to see this one built.

 

I've been a bit burnt out on building, so haven't touched the Tiger in a few days. I've got a Scharnhorst that has been just sitting on my desk forever that I'd like to get finished. Tiger's gonna take some crazy effort with all the PE.

 

Also - does anyone recommend a specific method to fill seams in PE? I'm fairly leery of using my usual fill/sand method on what are effectively delicate brass boxes.

 

Edit: I do have a soldering gun. I may experiment on scrap PE to see how it feels.

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