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Roktman

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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. Very cool. I was waiting to scroll down and just see an empty base... :lol: Excellent job, both on the plane and the figure.
  2. Thanks. I used one of 2 "techniques" the GK guys to do bring the skin alive. One is to flick tiny drops of many colors of paint on the skin and then lightly do a top coat to settle the drops underneath. I first saw this watching Rafael Robledo work - https://youtu.be/tQizFgzbvYY BTW, This guy is absolutely amazing. But I can't get the dot of paint tiny enuff so I do the older technique of just doing squiggles all over the skin - I used red, blue, yellow, green and a little purple over a light gray primer. I Spray a clear coat after every 2 colors so if I screwed up the last color and I need to remove the goof, I wouldn't go all the way to the base or even worse the primer coat. Rafael suggest a clear coat after every color until you get used to the technique. After the last clear coat was dry I hit it with the flesh color, but making sure not to apply it too heavy so that all the other colors disappear. It's tough to know when enuff is enuff - so go slow. Wow...that is excellent! Thank you for sharing this picture and the information! You're quite welcome. I have no secrets, so if I can pass something on and help someone else, it's all good. If you really like Figures, I would definitely subscribe to Rafael's YT channel. IMHO he's better than amazing.
  3. Thanks. The skin color is Vallejo's Gray White or is it White Gray over light gray primer and the squiggle technique I described previously... edit: I looked and it's White Gray. The paints are arrange by a position number on the rack at the store (and my paint rack at home). :smiley2: They are grouped together that way rather than by their stock numbers which are all over the place. So the White Gray is 151. I hate to admit the eyes are done simply with black paint and a brush. I almost never use gloss paint, but Vallejo has a Gloss Black that goes on VERY smooth. I won't say it's self leveling, but it appears to me to do that.
  4. Thanks. I used one of 2 "techniques" the GK guys to do bring the skin alive. One is to flick tiny drops of many colors of paint on the skin and then lightly do a top coat to settle the drops underneath. I first saw this watching Rafael Robledo work - https://youtu.be/tQizFgzbvYY BTW, This guy is absolutely amazing. But I can't get the dot of paint tiny enuff so I do the older technique of just doing squiggles all over the skin - I used red, blue, yellow, green and a little purple over a light gray primer. I Spray a clear coat after every 2 colors so if I screwed up the last color and I need to remove the goof, I wouldn't go all the way to the base or even worse the primer coat. Rafael suggest a clear coat after every color until you get used to the technique. After the last clear coat was dry I hit it with the flesh color, but making sure not to apply it too heavy so that all the other colors disappear. It's tough to know when enuff is enuff - so go slow.
  5. Thanks. I got it from a garage kit guy, Gillman Productions. You can find him on FB.
  6. Not that I officially represent Vallejo, but as someone who is thoroughly satisfied with it - sorry your having a problem. In all honestly I only got 1/2 thru the video you linked - the guy just took way to long to get to the point. I turned it off after the was mentioning the part about putting the agitator in the bottle. If he looked at the documentation - and yes there's a lot of it in small font - it says to NOT shake the bottle but to roll it between you hands. If he doesn't want to add extra "stuff" to the a/b cup, maybe add a little water or flow improver to the bottle. Pretty much the same way how a few YouTubers tell how to make Tamiya paint airbrushable right out of the jar by adding thinner directly to a jar... For me I use an a/b with a .3 or .03 needle (whatever its) and set the compressor to about 17-18psi (documentations says to use "less than 20psi"). I roll the paint bottle to mix it. I then add 3 or 4 drops of flow improver to paint cup, then 2 or 3 drops of paint, then I take the paint brush I'm going to mix it with and dip it in water first and then mix it all together. When I finish the cup of paint I put a few drops of water in and spray that, then add more paint if I need to keep going. I will also take that same paint brush and with water rub it over the tip of the needle to remove any paint that has dried on the tip (usually very little). If I'm finished, then I do the drops of water, to clean out much of the remaining paint. Then I add squirt a little of the Cleaner - I use Iwata Cleaner - give it a blast then swirl with the brush to get whatever paint is left around the cup, and spray till all the liquid is gone. Then I'm good to go for the next time or the next color. HTH
  7. I hear ya. We're "past due" for the move to somewhere where I'll never see snow again after I retired. But wifey already knows the new place *will* include a climate controlled section of the garage or an extra bedroom for my models and stash. Every time she comes up to my room, and sees the boxes, she's reminded of the room I'll need. :smiley2:
  8. I always have at least 2 kits going at the same time. while I was waiting for parts of DeNiro to dry I got to work on this little alien kit. Super simple and quick to finish - (This angle is for a good look at the crashed saucer) Thanks for looking. As usual, CCs are welcomed.
  9. Yep - in the 1994 movie Mary Shelley's Frankenstein. Once started I just kept going so I have no WIP pics. Here's the shot I used as reference - Here's my take. Thanks for looking . As always CCs are welcome -
  10. Yes, what the others have said - Vallejo paints only come in the small dropper bottles. BUT Vallejo does have White Primer in a large (200mL) bottle. I use Vallejo exclusively and can vouch for their primers. Not priming? I use the white primer as regular paint - it goes on easier - and then hit it with clear satin/gloss - whatever I need. https://smile.amazon.com/Vallejo-White-Primer-Acrylic-Polyurethane/dp/B0063TQ7HW/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1493049264&sr=1-2&keywords=Vallejo+white+primer
  11. No worries. :smiley2: As I looked at Mr. Kim's boat link again, the junk shape was a little off anyway. ;) The RPF is a good place to lurk. There are often SFX guys that work in films and such, hang out there and build stuff for their own collections. It is amazing. If you have time, checkout the Studio Scale section - WOW. Ok guys sorry for bringing this off topic. I'll bring it back on topic by showing these latest busts. Two are from American Werewolf in London, and the 3rd is an Alien. You can never have enuff alien kits. ;)
  12. Your wish ... and all that jazz. ;) A guy at the RPF scratched one last year. http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=261988
  13. Nice. The War Junk could be modified into Mr. Kim's flying restaurant from the 5th Element. :D
  14. Ditto what the other genmts have said. IMHO and FWIW, I think the two biggest problems is that the paints being airbrushed are too thick, and the air pressure being too high. I use Vallejo acrylics now, and buried in their documentation they say to set the pressure no higher than 20psi. I keep my setting around 17-18 psi. This also helps prevent the drying of the paint on the needle tip. In re: to the mix of the paint I usually do a 60/40 or 70/30 mix of paint with water and/or Flow Improver. Then with regular cleaning I never get a clog.
  15. This past St. Patrick's Day I decided it was the perfect day to take this Spyda Adams kit out and start it. The backstory - - Yikes! The kit came in 4 parts of white, odorless resin. There was a little seam line, but it was easily dispatched amongst all the fur. I then applied some Aves to the two arms where the seams were. The other parts was the axe and the base. I tried out my new "photo area" but didn't get the lights right. Apologies for the harsh lighting. Thanks for looking and as always CC is welcomed.
  16. Roktman

    Caveman T-Rex

    Thanks Dave. Yep, you need to be in the mood for dopey humor for this movie. ;)
  17. Roktman

    Caveman T-Rex

    Everyone loved that Ringo Starr piece of cinema, :smiley2: so I was happy to pick up this kit. It came in 6 pieces including the base. It only had one big bubble in the resin which was easy to fill with some Aves. I also practiced a little "sculpting" by putting the scale pattern back into the repaired area. Looking up the logo for the base, it's the typical rainbow appearance so I shot that with my Iwata - Online images of the monster showed it was all gray or a green gray. So I chose to do both. I basecoated in a light green gray. Vallejo actually has 2 colors both named green gray, I used the lighter one. The highlighted in a light gray. Thanks for looking.
  18. Very cool, Mark. I always try and make a visit to Brookhurst when I'm visiting my bud in OC. Been sick for about a month and haven't built a thing, but that didn't stop me from buying. I just got the Pegasus Von Braun Moonlander - I was also able to order a few diorama bits and bobs from Greenstuff World - http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/ They are in Spain but deliveries are pretty quick. I got a few leaf punches and a few rolling pins for flooring. The are actually rolling pins about 4 or 5 inches long and embossed with various flooring options - bricks, flagstones. So you put out some clay or Aves and then roll the pin over the clay. The image transfers to the clay. Then all you have to do is gently lay it out on the dio and voila, a brick roadway. Not being very long it's best for the 1/72 and maybe the 1/48 guys. worth a look. They also have this stuff called "Blue Stuff" in which you put a few sticks of this "stuff" into almost boiling water and it softens up. Then take it out, knead it and put it over whatever you want to reproduce. So take a Jerry can,and put the BlueStuff over one side, and let it cool, Then put more over the other side of the can. Once it's all cooled you pull the two sections apart, remove the can, and then mix up some greenstuff or miliput (for some reason Aves won't work) and put it in the mold. Smoosh the two parts and then create your copy of the Jerry can or whatever. I used it top make a few 1/72 pilots for my planes.
  19. Just picked up a few of the Bandai Star wars kits. There's something about them not being allowed to be sold in the US, so I had to get them from a 3rd party seller on Amazon. Terrifically engineered kits. I also got Squadron's first kit, the Haunebu II. It's once of those Luft '46 jobbers - a Nazi flying saucer. Thing is going to be huge.
  20. Picked up another mini bust from John Dennett. Last year was the Christmas Werewolf. This time it's the Saucer-naut Santa, which he made into an ornament for the tree. Once I started going I just got into it and painted away. So no WIP pics. The "fur" around the hat and also the little poofs at the end of the hat are white glue with a little Woodland Scenics Snow on it. Nice and easy. Thanks for looking.
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