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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. I can only think that the Extreme Detail has a higher level of detail, but really these 2 categories are their top level. It depends on where the part would be in the model. I think for the sake of 55¢, it would be worth it to me, if the part was going be front and center.
  2. I've never used the Mr. Surfacer 1500. But the Stynylrez and Vallejo are very similar except the Vallejo needs at least 24 hrs to "cure" or harden up. where Stynylrez is ready to go sooner. But I switch back and forth between them all the time.
  3. HI, No there are none. I think Mr. Brotherton set it for "ultra high" or the like. I only buy the highest version anyway, I don't even look at the others, so I really don't remember. I actually had the parts before I got the model. :smiley9: I guess I should have been clearer. For ppl that don't frequent SWays, they'll see a part for "$10" and a version of the same part for "$3" and may go the inexpensive route. It's the inexpensive route that gets you the lines. Sorry for the confusion.
  4. Thanks. Re: Shapeways I've learned you need to order whatever part you want in the best configuration - ultra fine detail (or whatever they are calling it now) to not have the obvious grow lines. It's more $$ but to me it's worth it not to have to spend all that extra time sanding the lines away. I saw a recent tutorial on YouTube where the guy uses acetone vapors to "melt" the lines away from a part grown with abs. But until I try it, or see someone else besides the guy on the vid try it, I wouldn't recommend putting an expensive piece in with the acetone.
  5. Slow going on this one, but progress is being made. I first attached Alice and Ralph - Next on the list was to separate the attitude adjustment rockets from the pour plug - Once they were all cut, it was time for clean up. Some were a little worse than the others. But with the sanding sponges that came with my latest SAMI magazine (Thanks!) they were all done in about a 1/2 hour. After that I tempted fate and redrilled the openings at the end of the nozzles. They all drilled nicely except I goofed up the last two... :-/ ) The instructions say they were silver so I gave them the old gloss black primer coat before hitting them in Vallejo Metallics Aluminum. While I had my little saw out, I cut the base of the kit RTG and transferred it to the Shapeways part - Looking at the picture it seems to me there's an extra part in there. I think the round radiators should be right up against the RTG and not have that section in between. I'll have to double check that. Finally for this session I primed the RTG in Stynylrez black primer, it's a little thicker and covers in one coat. and I foiled the ring attachment for the launch vehicle (I forget what it's really called). It also doubles as another low gain antenna. That part is yet to be foiled, as you can see it as the little yellow part - To finish off this WIP session. I gathered the courage to clip off the extra foil binding I installed and glued the struts onto the HGA - More soon. Thanks for looking.
  6. This is a relatively new kit from Real Space Models, and depicts the craft that just had it's flyby of Pluto. Looking over the parts they are for the most part pretty good. A few bubbles here and there, but nothing to worry about. A little Vallejo Plastic Putty and they were gone. I didn't count the parts but each experiment was it's own part (SWAP and Ralph had 2). The HGA was the main dish, a medium gain antenna. 3 wire supports, and then the lo gain antenna on the end of 3 more wires were all separate. Then there's the bus. The only little negative I would say would be the pour plus were pretty thick in comparison to the part. The "wings" of SWAP took me nearly an hour to get off the pour plug with breaking it. This is where I am now - All the parts off the pour plugs and primed After a while I get tired of wrapping the parts in foil, so I started attaching them to the bus - More later.
  7. Welcome to the hobby. Honesty I don't use gloss paint. I find it too hard to get an even coat. So I will spray or apply my regular coat of paint (I use Vallejo) and then later I give it a coat with the clear gloss. That works better for me. HTH.
  8. I agree with what others have said. The only thing I would add is it's better to have a shaky hand while doing the veining. And always remember to go in the same direction. This was my first shot at it a while ago -
  9. I use an Iwata CR, I think (it's been so long since looking at the name) . For details Believe it or not I have a small set of brushes from WAMP. They look like cheap-o brushes but they are great. To round things off I have a number of sizes of W&N Series 7 brushes. For paint I've gone over to the darkside and use Vallejo almost exclusively. I do have some Citadel colors (red and yellow) as they cover better. I also use the Citadel washes. They are miracles. ;) For primers I use Vallejo or Stynylrez. The down side of the Vallejop primers is they need to cure at least 24 hours or you can peel it up by just rubbing it up with a finger. The Stynylrez is awesome stuff.
  10. Excellent work!! Re: the rear seat area. Don't you just hate it when all that detail is there and invisible? :smiley24: :D
  11. My fav is now the new line of Vallejo Metallics (avoid the old stuff). It can go on with a brush or airbrush, is self leveling and being acrylic can be washed up with water and no stink. Of that, the brightest is either their Chrome or Duraluminum.
  12. Looks good to me. Maybe it's the camera as things look very glossy. I think I'd give it a shot of mat coat to dull things down. I didn't see a problem with the bailing wire, but Bass Pro Shops (and Other places I'm sure) sell lead wire of all different thicknesses, including some VERY think stuff. It will give you a much easier time snaking that wire thru the cockpit. Otherwise good job.
  13. Roktman


    Just in time for Christmas, we have Krampus. Along the narrow paths of the alpine countries, between snowy forests and silent valleys, on cold nights that come close to the winter solstice, wild and mysterious creatures roam: they are the Krampus. In the time of year when the sun is weak and barely touches the Earth with its rays, they come out of their shelters in the mountains to go to visit lonely Alpine countries ... They sneak quietly in homes or roam the streets between noises of cowbells looking for naughty children, who kidnap closing them in the bottom of a large sack, to take them who knows where ... Children who will not be rewarded by the gifts of Santa Claus, end up in the clutches of the devils of Yule, the Krampus! Everything that exists, exists because of its opposite: there isn't force, intelligence, virtue, or property that hasn't an opposite that counterbalances. In the popular tradition of the north-east Italy, Austria, Germany and the Slavic countries, the Krampus is the force opposite to that of Santa Claus: he is the companion of Santa Claus, often depicted with him, the other face of a single power that gives or takes away according to merit. The Krampus model comes from Aradia Models, who started out as two brothers from Italy, that have expanded to include a very talented group of artists. The model is very well sculpted and is 75mm in size. It came in about 6 pieces, and was very easy to put together. Thanks for looking. WIP pics can be seen here: http://kevtk.blogspot.com/2016/12/krampus-anti-santa.html
  14. Whew, a lot of quality models there! Thanks for sharing.
  15. This time around I went back to one a NASA's mystery craft. From Fantastic Plastic's site: The FDL-6C SOMV (Sub Orbital Maneuvering Vehicle) is one of several designs to emerge from the AFFDL (Air Force Flight Dynamics Laboratory) during the 1960’s. The FDL concepts developed to explore the characteristics of spacecraft during hypersonic re-entry. The FDL-6 shape was one of the shapes explored by the Lockheed Corporation. It is rumored that, in the 1970s, the shape was explored again and the vehicle was sized to 33 feet long to fit in the cargo bay of the US Space Shuttle. This would allow it to be launched from orbit for a return flight to the United States. Whether this actually ever happened or not is not known. The vehicle was to have an all metal TPS (Thermal Protection System) consisting of overlapping Columbium (Niobium) and Hastelloy “shingles” as opposed to the more fragile ceramic tiles seen on the US Space Shuttle. It would likely have needed some kind of active cooling for the leading edges and nose similar to that designed for the McDonnell FDL-7. Having a 'time flies' moment, the kit was released in 2009, and is not currently in FPs catalog of available kits. But I would keep constant vigil of their Store, as retired kits are brought back for limited runs all the time. The kit is 23 pieces expertly casted by BLAP Models. There was no resin odor, no bubbles, and the pour plugs were very easy to remove. Have a look at: http://kevtk.blogspot.com/2016/11/fantastic-plastics-fdl-6.html for some WIP pics. Thanks for looking.
  16. Roktman

    GoT The Hound

    Thanks. Supposedly he got the burn in a fight with his brother. I didn't watch the show from the very beginning so I missed that too. But I did recently hear from someone who knows the actor, Rory McCann, personally. I was told that the burn morphed over the seasons because Rory was apparently spending too much time in the make up chair. They lessened the burn to get him in and out of make up quicker. ;)
  17. Certainly a nice little grab from Fl. Going to a Brookhurst Hobby in Orange County, CA I also noticed different areas of the country seem to offer different kits; not completely, but enuff to draw my attention. Hmmm.
  18. Roktman

    GoT The Hound

    From the HBO series Game of Thrones, this is another kit from Gillman Productions. He came in two parts - the bust and the base. Once again, it's a very clean kit with one tiny bubble, and seam lines that are extremely thin. I was wondering if I made the the burn mark was too red. Looking over all the pics of this character; over the seasons his burn mark seemed to go from red and fresh, to pale and dry and back again. So however you want it to look, you're good to go. Thanks for looking. WIP pics can be seen at my dopey blog - http://kevtk.blogspot.com/2016/10/sandor-clegane.html
  19. Aah, thats too bad. But just keep plugging away. Don't send him to the almost done stack! ;)
  20. Thanks guys, I appreciate the kind words. It was a fun kit to build. Since it's an old repop, I thought it would be a lot tougher on me than it was.
  21. I dn't have any info on this since 1/48 "aint my thing" but the place to keep watch is SAMI (Scale Aviation Modeler International) magazine. They have a large section of coming soons and other items to be on the look out for. Oh I hear you on that. Hanging with the resin crowd, when you got a resin kit in the 90s you could barely make out what the kit was supposed to represent. You couldn't tell the kit part from the pour plug - on and on. Now if there's a bubble or if the mould halves slightly slipped, Holy Mackerel it's like you insulted the guys mom. I have a hard time being part of the forums with these "younguns."
  22. You're right re: the hair. When I took another look at the pic, I had added the blond strands but thought I got rid of the highlights and shadows. So I added some more GW Agrax Earthshade, which darkened it, then took the pic. Its been fixed. Ok, all done. But picking up from where we left off last it was just a matter of getting his head on his shoulders and then tackling his helmet. Finally the base was done. I was glad I checked as I was going to put the head on and then put the bubble helmet together and just simply slip it over his head. Nope won't fit. So, the head went on and then the back part of the helmet was fixed onto his shoulders. There has been talk of what to do with the seam line. Some have bought an aftermarket helmet. Others simply said they are not going to worry about it. I fell in the not worrying about it category. But what I did was put a black edge on the front part. I had previously taken a little piece of lead wire (from Bass Pro Shops, I think) and put a dot of PVA glue on the tip. This will mimic a microphone. I then attached the front piece to the back part. Looks good but there's no real support of the microphone. It just sorta sits there inside the helmet. The blackened edge didn't really show up as I had planned. I needed to do something else. In the end I too the simple route. I took another length of the solder wire - which is incredibly flexible - and curved it around the outside of the helmet from where the microphone was to where the helmet met the neck ring. A touch of superglue wicked the glue along the length of wire. I then took a file and VERY gently sand the tip so that it looks like it's angling into the helmet. Some black paint finished off the illusion. Next I turned my attention to the base. The one that comes with the kit is actually two small bases. One for Flash that has a large crater, and the Martian had a tiny one, with a tiny crater. I didn't like this. But I wanted to include the craters. I cut them off and arranged them on the base - Those other marks are just where I scored the wood so the Celluclay would lock down. The Celluclay was next - I made it a little uneven for variation, but had to keep it level enuff for the two figures to stand. Once the Celluclay was dry I added some sand around the base - Color was next. As It's Mars I added various orangy browns and oranges. Pics of Mars always show few rocks that look black - so I added them in as well - The next was how to get Flash to stand on his base. I didn't thing the wires thru the feet would do it - tho it worked for the Martian. Since Flash is pretty lightweight except for where I put the Aves in his feet, I ended up getting out some magnets and adding them to both the feet and the base. You can see some circles (magnets) in the base. Once all the magnet glue was dry I added him to the base. I took the supplied sign, chppoed off the feet, added wire legs and then after a black prime added two tone lettering. A coat of satin clear on the sign and the model is finished. Here's my Flash Gordon. Thanks for looking -
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