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Mike Delano

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Everything posted by Mike Delano

  1. That's a good question - I would document the intentional presence of the screw on the submission entry - but then again, you may have some folks who want to examine the bottom of the subject so/
  2. R2 (formerly Polar Lights) had a number of kits that were to be supposedly released at around the time the 2009 Trek film came out - a 1000 scale Thundershiled, 2500 scale Abrams Enterprise, and there was rumor of them expanding their 1000 scale line further. I would imagine thaqt in liue of these kits, they aptly focused their time and energy on the forthcoming 350 scale TOS Enterprise I would imagine that if we do see anything new instead of rereleases of the AMT ERTL kits, it will probably be closer to the time of release of the next Trek film in 2013. I was really dissapointed they cancelled release of the 2500 scale Abrams Enterprise - but again, it may still happen when it's more commercially viable.
  3. On a side note... these things look like they would have fit perfectly in the Battle of Hoth scene in Empire Strikes Back. Im just saying...
  4. For anyone interested, R2's relelease of the old Enterprise C in 1/1400 scale is now readily available. The kit includes parts that were included in the Pro Shop version of the kit. Since this rerelease is not molded in brittle clear plastic, the conversion is much simpler in terms of the cutting and filing that's necessary. The highlight is, of course, the decals (the sheet measures 8.5" x 12") - the sheet includes a number of new decals for both the E-C and the Yamaguchi as well as battle damage decals if you want to do the E-C as it (sort of) appeared in the "Yesterday's Enterprise" episode. These decals are a bit overdone in terms of the number of them included. I really wish they had corrected the bussard collectors for this kit to match those that were used on the studio model, but oh well.... I got 3 of these kits as they are great for kitbashes and conversions. I've attached an image to this post...
  5. 5 words - Tamiya acrylics thinned with lacquer - though that doesnt solve your need for IAF colors.
  6. One thing nice about my Nikon D7000 is dual SD card slots, so I can shoot and save all of my images to JPEG on one card along with the RAW version on the secondary card. The JPEGs are nice if I need to quickly get an image to someone via email or my website without having to process, but I like having the RAW images so I can go back at a later time if I really want to manipulate te images.
  7. looks like they're slowly branching out... next? grossly obsure japanese armor.
  8. I do recall there being a product called "Lightsheet" several years back - it was commonly used in sci-fi model lighting. I believe that it is no longer made now or the company who manufactured it no longer exists.
  9. Question for all the Nikon enthusiasts out there - have any of you by any chance used a Nikon D7000 for photographing your models yet? I'm thinking about upgrading, but wanted to get anyone's opinion who might have used it.
  10. You can actually use 91% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol - it's a cheap alternative to Testors Acrylic thinner. The only difference that I have noticed with it is that it tends to dull the glossy Tamiya acrylics (though that is easiliy resolved with a glosscoat). I also use Mr. Thinner to thin my Tamiya Acrylics - expensive, but it works beautifully.
  11. Unfortunatley, the instructions dont include the aztec pattern. I would not be one bit surprised however, if R2 issues an aztec decal set some time down the road.
  12. My kid brother somehow got his hands on a reissue AMT Enterprise B today and brought it to me - I thought they weren't even available in retail yet. R2 looks to have put a fair amount of effort into correcting some of the glaring problems with the original - namely the ventral saucer and the secondary hull. The only problem I found was that one of the nacelle pylons was not fully formed out of the mold, so I'll probably have to contact R2 to get a replacement part. Also, I wish they had been able to recess the panel lines on the secondary hull and under sides of the nacelles anf thin out the panel lines on the upper and lower saucer. But, it's better than nothing - this will be another great boon for the kitbashers out there. The highlight of this kit, however are the decals - good quality and markings for both the Enterprise B And the U.S.S. Lakota which appeared in a Deep Space Nine episode.
  13. Here's a classic stinker... "What Waits Below". From the early 80's.
  14. Here are a few more for your consideration... Zardoz (why, Sean? why?!?) Captain Kronos: Vampire Hunter (worth it for Caroline Munro, however) Starcrash (ditto again for Miss Munro, though) Steel (this was one of Shaquille O'Neal's first starring forays as an "actor") The recent remake of the Time Machine (Samantha Mumba was no Weena) Simon - good point on Yvette Mimieux - here's an idea for a new thread - actors/acrtresses that appeared in among the worst sci-fi films of all time as well as an all time classic...
  15. Has this ever been rereleased in its original form (excluding the Moon Ship and Space Pursuit sets) - do the original molds even exist at this point?
  16. In echoing what Chris mentioned about fixing the track to the hull prior to painting, you can get really good results. Here's another video that actually shows this in progress. If you go to about 4 minutes into this video, you can see the technique demonstrated on a Tiger II. This video is actually part 2 of a 6 part series that chronicles an entire DML BOB Kingtiger build. There are some neat techniques demonstrated here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhUEGlNP2g8&feature=related
  17. Patrick - I'm not sure if this completelty answers your question, but yes, you do have to glue the magic trak links together. What I have found to be the best glue to use is Tamiya's extra thin cement - it allows you to glue the links together in a single run, but stays just flexible enough to allow you to wind the track run around your sprickets, idlers, and roadwheels over night so they can stiffen up. The method I use (and this may have been addressed in the links that MArk provided, but I'm not sure) is to lay down a 15 or so inch strip of Tamiya masking take sticky side up on my workbench. I tape either end of that down so it doesnt move. I then line up a straight edge along the tape and assemble my links horn-up. Once I have gotten my full link length of track laid out, I run down the entire length with small amounts of the Tamiya cement. I then let the let the track sit for 10 to 15 minutes. This allows the glue to set so the track can be handled and bent around your sprockets without worry of the links falling apart. Once you've wound your track lengths, you can then form your sag and adjust the length as needed (I always use a few links fewer than are called out in the instructions. It's easier to add links than take them away when that;s the case. I always do this before I do any painting - I test fit my sprockets, roadwheels and idlers to the lower hulls and then wrap the tracks around them and let sit over night so they become rigid. I can then remove them and set aside for painting. See this link from Armorama - it does a much better visual explanation of the method I use. Once you've used this method once, it's like riding a bicycle - you;ll never forget how to do it. http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Sections&file=index&req=viewarticle&artid=1737
  18. I'm loving the new forum update - great work Eric! It looks wonderful!
  19. How about this one... the Polikarpov YER 2 http://www.aeropedia.info/web/content.php?article.1000346
  20. Beautiful! I also saw the 42" E on your site - I want one.
  21. Your best bet if noone here has the part will probably be to hunt on ebay - more than likely, you'll have to end up buying the whole kit to get that particular part... There are quite a few on ebay right now - the cheapesdt on i see in the buy it no category would end up costing you about 50 bucks after shipping...
  22. While I dont have their site up in front of me at the moment, I believe there is a manufacturer of parts sold through Federationmodels.com that makes that lower dome part. Might be a little more costly than you're looking for, however...
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