Jump to content

Mike Delano

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Mike Delano

  1. I figured I'd share some photos of my Viper Mk. II I picked up today.... Very nice kit - the instructions are in full color printed on very nice quality paper. The decals are quite nice as well... The details are nice too, though there will be some cleanup needed. The Paragrafix Photoetch detail set is a must - Even though it costs as much as the kit itself, it's well worth it! Because of the pictures per post limit, I'll break the photos up into several posts...
  2. Guys - A friend of mine contacted me with the below question. Frankly, I've never dealt with 'yellowed' clear parts, so I don't really know of a resolution but I thought someone here might have an answer... I have pasted the question below: I need some advice. Perhaps you can help me. I am building a Masudaya 16 inch Robby the Robot with my son. Everything is perfect, except; 2 of the small clear plastic parts that go inside the head have yellowed. How? I don't know, as the parts have been sealed for years. The rest of the clear parts are fine. They were originally all clear. Do you
  3. Nice - it's good to see you back on the forum again Simon.
  4. What I've also found to work well is a base coat of floquil red oxide, followed by a dusting of floquil engine black followed by Testors Gun Metal Non-Buffing Metalizer and dry-brushed with some metallic gray. When followed by an oil wash, it looks pretty good...
  5. Finally completed.... except for a few final touches and final coat of Future. The hull color is Tamiya IJN Light Gray spray lacquer. Hull graphics are from the 18" AMT re-release. Registry and name decals as well as the under-saucer doors (some references state these as subspace antennae) and docking ports are all custom made using Adobe Illustrator and printed to decal paper...
  6. Just to throw my experience into the ring - I am running Win. 7 Ult. and have viewed and used the board in ie7, ie8, FireFox, and Google Chrome without issues.
  7. I don;t believe I have ever seen Tamiya cement with an orange cap. I'll have to see if I can find it. As far as the AFV kits, I tried ProWeld, Mr. Cement, Mr. Cement Deluxe, Tamiya Extra Thin, and Testors liquid (the stuff form the bottle) - all yielded similar results. And as someone pointed out below, Tristar kit plastic seems to react the same way. I would have to imagine that since they are lower volume companies, they probably use a cheaper plastic.
  8. I had precisely the same problem with the AFV Club M18 Hellcat. I use proweld most of the time and when that didn;t react well, I switched to Tamiya thin cement which was still too hot and Testors liquid was no better.
  9. I was very pleasantly surprised to find today that the accurizing parts I had ordered for this project arrived already - I just ordered them Thursday... I struggled with how to do the navigation lights on the upper saucer - I finally realized that with a little bit of modification, some parts from the 1/1000 Polar Lights Enterprise would work quite well! I've still got a bit of work to do on the lower neck where it meets the lower saucer surface as well as some seams in the secondary hull / shuttlebay assembly as well.
  10. So, everybody who followed my postings late last year on my 1/1000 Polar Lights Enterprise to TOS style U.S.S. Kelvin conversion now probably know I have an odd infatuation with the 'U.S.S. Kelvin' that was featured fairly prominently in the first 10 or so minutes of last year's Star Trek film. Once I had completed my 1/1000 conversion to my liking, I decided I wanted to go a little bit biger. My initial though was to convert the 1/350 Refit Enterprise, however it just wasn't working out for me. Instead, I decided that since I had a few of the 18" AMT / R2 Enterprise re-release kits in th
  11. Do these two brushes use Iwata fittings? They look to be the same size from the picture and I know that there is quite a bit of compatibility between Grex and Iwata.
  12. Anyone started or completed this kit? Any thoughts on it? I'd heard of these Panzer IV turreted rail cars before, but had never seen it in kit form until now. It looks like a quite interesting kit!
  13. Well, it looks like my prayers have finally been answered - Dragon has DS Track for the Panther A/D on their site for sale: http://www.dragonusaonline.com/item_detail...temCode=CHC3860
  14. What I do is cut about a 6 inch long section of wire coat hanger and bend a small loop in the end of it - it works great, especially for Floquil paint which always seems to clump down to the bottom of the bottle. Picture below:
  15. Here's what I'd like to see: In the realm of Sci-Fi: 1/350 Scale TOS Enterprise (I know this has been rumored to be in the works) 1/350 Scale U.S.S. Reliant 1/350 Scale U.S.S. Excelsior / U.S.S. Enterprise-B (c'mon guys, it wouldn't be THAT big) All Others... I'd like to see Tamiya do an AFFORDABLE 1/350 Scale U.S.S. Arizona.... A 1/72nd Fletcher Class
  16. Just saw in the new FSM that R2 will be re releasing the old Star Trek Deep Space Station K-7 kit among others. There was also a shot of the box art for the reimagined Enterprise from the 2009 movie....
  17. Jay - Out of curiosity, are you using the on-camera flash or a separate flash unit?
  18. Isopropyl works great with Tamiya Acrylics and so does Lacquer thinner. But be careful if you're planning on using Glass Tamiya acrylics - 91% Isopropyl for some reason dulls them out. So if you do use gloss acrylics, I'd use the actual Tamiya brand thinner.
  19. I've been tempted to try it, but I'd have to wonder if it would have any kind of reaction to solvent based base coats like styrofoam has with lacquer
  20. NEal - You can also go to Starship Modeler - they have several reviews of Starcrafts kits available http://www.starshipmodeler.com/trek/trekship.htm
  21. They are actually pretty good kits - I have completed a few of them (tears ago) including the Akira, Stamrunner, and Saber class. They were very well detailed and molded and I didn;t have any problems with air bubbles or any other casting defects. And from what I see, their prices are still the same as they were 7 or 8 years ago.
  22. Chris - I had a very similar set of gear I was using in the early days - here is the problem - to get a good close up shot of your model, I would bet that you're standing a ways back and have your lens all the way out to 70mm. The problem there is that the flash, while giving more even coverage is going to give you a less intense coverage, so your photos will be slightly darker... Again, I use a 60mm Micro Nikkor lens specifically for taking close up shots (down to 1:1 if need be). That lens at around 450.00 can be somewhat cost prohibitive. What I would suggest at a much cheap
  • Create New...