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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/27/2020 in Posts

  1. My favorite Bill Koster story: Bill was vending at the Columbus Nats and I'd had him set aside the above pictured B-24 Ford Nose conversion set for me. Late in the afternoon I stopped by to pay for it....my wife was with me....so I handed the box to her to hold while I paid Bill.....so she asks how much it costs, and I said it's $45....and she opens the box, looks in and says "and THIS is all that's in here?" So I look at Bill (as he tucks away my money) and say "why did you let me do that?" Bill says, "It's not my fault you're stupid"! 🙂 Gil
    2 points
  2. Let there be light! This week’s work on the Thunderbolt II is installing the aircraft lights. Starting with the navigation lights there are five locations. The locations are the aft of the fuselage, each side of the tails, the dorsal light and the belly light. The kit provides a clear lens for the tail which is 1mm in diameter. So to start I drilled a 1mm hole all the way into the fuselage cavity. The clear lens was placed and then a 1mm fiber optic line was placed against it. For the belly light a 1mm hole was drilled and a piece of styrene stock was added to provide strain relief. I then us
    2 points
  3. Here's another trip down memory lane. This kit dates from 1970. For those not familiar with FROG, they were making wooden model aircraft kits as far back as the 1930's and were one of the first to transition to all plastic kits. The name, FROG, stands for "Flies Right Off the Ground", as most of their early rubber band powered models did. I had to do a little research as I knew very little about this a/c. It's got an Allison engine instead of the later Merlin and came with two 20mm cannons, although the British models exchanged these for four 50 cal. mgs. From what I read, it was not intended
    1 point
  4. Really hope you do, as others have said one of the best US Nats for organisation and love Chattanooga as a city and would love to come back.
    1 point
  5. Wow that is magnificent! That is a brilliant idea hiding the battery inside the cart! Took me completely by surprise.
    1 point
  6. This is another throw back kit from Fantastic Plastic that I dug deep into my stash to pull out. The date on the instructions says 2008! It's been out of production since 2011, but if you pay attention to the site, older models can come back for a brief engagement at any time. The LRV from FP's site: For a simple kit this one fought me every step of the way. The worst being the painting gods were tricksters watching me paint this, despite it just being black and white. Painting the black, I left it to dry, then turning it over to paint the white, I discovered a nic on the black.
    1 point
  7. Wonderful Warthog build! That lighting is going to be a real attention-getter anywhere you take it, and a real crowd pleaser. Congrats on a super build and thanks for letting us watch and learn! Gil
    1 point
  8. This weekly update for the A-10 Thunderbolt II covers the power cart and most of the weapons. So the Hasegawa accessory kit came with two carts. The A/M32A-60A generator and a TTU-228/E Hydraulic test stand. I used the TTU-228 as it was large enough to hold the 9V battery. The cart was detailed with the wires and hoses that came with the kit. The top panel of the cart sits in between the side rails so it kind of clips in. I had to extend it to match the modification I did to the cart. It was then painted and decals added. Then a final coat of matte clear coat was sprayed. I then assembled the
    1 point
  9. Michael, I did not specifically state that Testors moves regarding Floquil and Pactra was the result of regulation requirements. What I said...or at least meant to say...was that regulations were one of the factors that could and in some cases did cause a change in a product. I was told by one person at Testors some years ago that they were being required to utilize a multilevel label on their paints in order to print all the required warnings. You know the kind I'm talking about...the back label peels up from one side, expanding the available space for warnings and instructions. My c
    1 point
  10. Noel, Never mind evolution. The simple fact is that certain types of paint work best for specific results. Granted, every modeler has their preferences, but my previous statement still holds true. And consider this: Since enamels and even lacquers are vanishing because "they smell", "they're dangerous", "they cause cancer", "they damage the environment", etc, what happens when they're no longer around and it's discovered that acrylics of all varieties are also dangerous, damaging, etc? What do we use then? Water color? Will we adapt? Yeah, you're right. We will, but that does
    1 point
  11. With the enamel sources drying up, I really wish Tamiya would start importing their little square bottles of enamels. I managed to get a few out of Japan and they are as good as their acrylics and lacquers. Between their newer jars of lacquer, if they brought in the enamels they would have the model paint market covered.
    1 point
  12. I don't know of any local sellers but I just Google woods metal and come up with a lot of places that sell 1 pound ingots or other forms. I would get it from one of the scientific suppliers. I seem to have had better luck with them. To be honest with you, I bought mine a long time ago so I am not sure where I got it. I would bet it was in Pennsylvania for an interesting reason. The maker was using old Hershey's molds. My pieces came looking like single squares off of a Hershey bar. 😆 I originally bought it to use as a low temperature solder. It really works well for that. If you
    1 point
  13. The A-10 Thunderbolt II is heading into the final stages of the build. The aircraft was painted and the custom decals to match the combat simulator scheme were added. The Master Model was then assembled and installed. This accessory set also comes with a brass pitot tube for the wing. The hole in the wing was too large for the brass one so I filled the hole and re-drilled it the correct size. I was searching around the internet and stumbled upon a fellow modeler who used a glow-in-the-dark paint that he used for the formation lights (nicknamed “Slime Lights”). I looked up paints and found
    1 point
  14. Personally, as a mailman, I've been blessed to work as normal all year, so the only affect on me has been the reduced hours by the local shops or a few months. However, I know of several of our local club members who're in financial straights and have had to sell some of their stash, or at the very least, greatly curtail their buying of kits and supplies. I've also heard some references to a loss of "mojo" they attribute to all of the stresses this year has entailed. To those people I try to point out that building a model may be just what they actually need....doing something to take your min
    1 point
  15. Another oldie but good from Fantastic Plastic! From their site: In the mid-1950s, the U.S. Air Force flirted seriously with the idea of producing long-range strategic bombers powered by atomic energy. The main advantage of such a weapon would be its ability to stay aloft for weeks at a time, thus serving as the aerial counterpart to the Navy's fleet of nuclear-powered submarines. Jack Northrop, America's number-one proponent of "flying wing" aircraft, proposed several configurations for such an atomic-powered bomber. The most exotic of these was an asymmetrical design that p
    1 point
  16. For many years, I hoped that some of the resin guru's would produce an XP-47B Prototype fore me. No one did, so I finally got off my hind parts and got 'er done... For those interested, the build thread is HERE for those who might want to give it a try. And last, a comparison: Thanks for looking, Ed
    1 point
  17. Working on a diorama based around a forklift. The Aoshima kit with the MiniArt hand truck. The propane tank is also from the MiniArt set. The bumper stickers came from Gofer racing Decals. They are a little big, but I think they add to the model. Dak
    1 point
  18. Love it! I use to drive one while working in a lumber yard in Texas. When ever I trained a new guy, I'd stick a raw egg on some putty I had on the pallet then haul a$$ around the un paved yard, The egg would always stay on and I'd tell the new person when you can do that come back and see me. Of course when I removed the egg I'd take the putty also. Always good for a laugh or two.
    1 point
  19. Gil, this is a beautiful tribute to a fine modeler, designer and human being. We've lost one of the old guard, and are poorer for it. Barry Numerick
    1 point
  20. Fantastic piece, your painting of it is outstanding.
    1 point
  21. A few years ago I picked up a few of the old mini kits from Geo-Metric. As usual they got lost in the stash until I just found them again. I don't think I've done the Hunchback since the days when I was a little kid building the Aurora kit. The kit comes in 4 resin pieces and two metal parts. It all came packed in two bags along with a pic of the finished model. In the pic, Quasi was holding on to the jester's "crown" the crowd gave him. My first problem was the the hand holding the crown was molded just like the other hand - with an open palm. I just received my new PE plier
    1 point
  22. Nice. I loved that series of models as a kid. I was glad to seem them being reissued, even in their "un-Disney" guises.
    1 point
  23. This kit brings back a LOT of memories as I did a few of them in my early teen years. I remember at the time, that I thought it was the best paint job I ever did - most likely with those gloppy Testors enamel paints. 🤪 Anyway this was re-released by Round 2 and is 1:12 scale. Comes with a few sprues of parts and then the deck planking in 2 big sheets. I also comes with a large sheet of decals. Starting right in I gave all the parts a coat of Stynylrez tan primer. There was some flash and the deck and box parts had a slight warp to them, but nothing serious. Things went so
    1 point
  24. That is one of the USCG's P4Y-2G's, and that SAR nose was peculiar to them. Nobody I am aware of makes this as an aftermarket canopy set, so you'll have to make a form (buck) and thermoform one. It isn't as hard as it sounds--the buck can be made from wood or air drying clay. You'll want the buck to be slightly smaller than the final item. When you have it shaped, make sure it is smooth and then seal it with a few coats of a clear gloss until it is smooth and shiny. Make some sort of provision to add a dowel "handle" on the back side, then securely clamp the handle in a vice. Take a she
    1 point
  25. Mike, you did an extraordinary job hosting the best nationals I'd ever been to! I am thrilled that I took this chance to come all the way out there and I appreciate all you've done to make it happen! You are an amazing man!
    1 point
  26. And yet again, when some low performing modeler berates one of our members with the painfully monotonous myth of IPMS rivet counters, our knee- jerk reaction is to rend our garments, beat our breasts, and fall on our xacto knives in shame. People will believe what they want to believe whether it is written on a bathroom stall wall or on the idiotnet. Nothing we can say or do will change that! Nor should we change. All IPMS has done over the past 50 years is give credibility to a hobby that was not taken seriously, help plastic modelers increase their skills and enhance their enjoyme
    1 point
  27. Nick, with all due respect to your experience as a judge, a hem measurer would be one of the last tools I would use to assess general alignment for aircraft. Primarily because there are so many other factors that play into the height of wing tips. The predominant one is the construction and installation of the landing gear, especially on a narrow undercarriage. Any errors in the landing gear construction are multiplied exponentially by the time they get to the wing tips. These errors could be manufacturing errors e.g., slight difference in length of the struts, slightly different sized
    1 point
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