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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/29/2021 in Posts

  1. Just FYI. If you kept your name badge from the national convention, take out the inside card and your CDC covid vaccination card fits in it perfectly. You should not laminate it as it may need to be updated, so this protects the card without hindering any future processing.
    2 points
  2. I worked the registrations tables most of Wednesday and filled in some of Thursday and Friday. From an 'insider' point of view, it was well organized. Every crew could use a little more experience at running a Nats. From a previous Nats ops guy (Vendor Coord 2005, fill-in Vendor Coord 2007) there were a few things that could be improved. I have repeated said the Raffle needs to be digitized!! Put the winning tickets in Excel, put the numbers on a screen and remove them as claimed. The multiple sheets with marked out numbers always gets hard to read by Friday morning. At least re-write them every day! I also heard a bunch of grumbling on Saturday that their 'first come, first pick" raffle system left 'nothing but junk nobody wants" on the stage - but you can't please everybody. (reporting what I heard many times, not endorsing it)
    2 points
  3. Desperately looking for a Shelter ST5/6 Workshop. I believe that Calibre 35 made a Tamiya conversion (GMC 353 Workshop Vehicle Con..Kit (Calibre 35 35015, 1:35)) and so did ADV Azimut (Shelter ST5/6 Workshop (ADV Azimut 35145, 1:35)). My family owned a surplus one for ~50 years and didn't know what it was. When my brother passed, I inherited it and sold it to a military vehicle collector so that it could be restored. I would love to have a model of one for myself, as all of my family is gone now, but I can't find one anywhere. I could print my own if I had a 3d model file, but those don't seem to exist either. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated by this old man. Here's A picture how it looked on a duece and a half, and pictures of the one we owned.
    1 point
  4. Thanks fellas!! I've got another aircraft in the works coming up at the latter part of the year. My biggest build yet.
    1 point
  5. LOL! Thanks Gil! I didn't unpack most of my models as I had no space for them. The difficult part was in getting all my purchases and prizes stored away!
    1 point
  6. The Registrants should remember that they ARE getting a lot more for their money. The difference between the walk in fee and the registrants fee covers the cost of the trophies, the contest room tables, the contest room, the tables clothes, the judge’s pins, etc. None of those things are free and if the members want a contest to enter (and experience suggests that they do) then they are going to have to pay for it, like everything else in life. How much cheaper would the National Convention be put on without a contest? Personally, I would not bother to attend a Convention with no contest and a vendor room and “display only” tables. I am quite willing to pay for the excitement and possible reward of the contest. Whatever the walk-ins pay is gravy! Nick
    1 point
  7. Just wondering if anyone organizing the convention in San Marcos knows? Are you designing a new decal sheet or are you going to reuse the original. If you are going to design a new one, it might be fun to have a class or special award for models built with the 2020 sheet.
    1 point
  8. So, we can have lots of walk-ins at an attractively low price and thus make some money and boost vendor business or punish them for not joining IPMS by raising the walk-in fee to a prohibitively high level and make less money as well as restrict the vendor’s profits. The latter is what my mother used to refer to as ‘ cutting off you nose to spite your face! ‘ Nick
    1 point
  9. This is an Ouroboros Miniatures, Cyana. she was first covered with Tamiya Fine White Primer, airbrushed mix of white, red and yellow Model Master Enamels for the skin base, Vallejo acrylic for the hair, tunic, jewelry, dragon and rock, shaded with oils and finished with Model Master Dull coat. Thanks for letting me share!
    1 point
  10. Nice makeup on the face. Well done.
    1 point
  11. After finishing the involved Charlie Brown model, I was in need of something simpler. Since it was new, I immediately thought of Good Fellas Resin's new offering- Ep. 4 Leia. Few colors, few parts = perfect. One thing you notice right away is the very good likeness. There was a while there where no kit/toy/action figure really looked like Carrie. This one is VERY good. Clean up was really quick. I found that MicroMarks Panel line Scriber works nicely for getting rid of any flash between the hairs. Base coating and first highlights done. Her costume ended up with 3 different layers of color as did her hair In the final session I was able to add two highlights to her hair. A coat of Satin went over it to give it a slight shine. Speaking of shine, I then used V's Metallics clear gloss, which in my opinion is the "glossiest" gloss out there, and gave the eyes two coats. Her arm nestles into position nicely without glue, so I just sat it there. This removal option will come in handy if and when I need to transport her. The final thing to do was to glue her head in place. With that, I was done. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  12. Took this kit out of the pile as it's something different. I don't have any Mad Max on my shelves...until now. This is a 1/4 scale Gyro Captain from Sean Kyle Studios. It came signed and with a numbered certificate of authenticity. Mine is #6. It comes in about 5 parts. There are a bubble or two. But all in all a nicely done kit. One thing tho - there looks like a little blob of flash in the bag of parts. DON'T throw it out! It's actually his cigar!! LOL. If I have to find one thing to critique it would be the auto-gyro's propeller. It looks to be cut out of thin sheet styrene. The cutting was a little uneven, but the main problem was I couldn't straighten it out. It had a little bend it it that was there to stay. It was no problem at all to cut a new one out of slightly thicker styrene, making both blades the same. The sculpt is a very good likeness of the actor Bruce Spence. I started out by priming, and then started laying in the base coat. There were a few images online that I thought made him have a pasty appearance. So the paint went on a little light. Later on I saw other images that showed him with more "color." I'll address that later. While that was drying, I turned my attention to the propeller. As was said it was shaped a little wonky, but the big problem was the curve in the styrene. I was no problem to draw and cut out another. Turning back to the bust I added a little more depth to the colors, tanned him up and gave the engine base a metallic shine. Then I decided that the craft would have minimal care, and after seeing a how to about busted up metal I tried that on the engine. The other thing I was going to do was paint a nice wood grain on the propeller. But I found one image that showed it well, and no wood grain. It was colored black and a dark red. So that's the way I went. A little gloss to the goggles, and eyes and I was done. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  13. I thought the casting was great. The detail was crisp.I used both acrylics and and enamels. I did a wash of burnt umber oils thinned with mineral spirits for shadow. I highlighted all of his clothing, and gear with Naples yellow oil paint. The flesh was Vallejo paints. Base, shadow, and highlight. In an effort to dull things down, I sprayed it with Testors Dull coat. For some reason, there is still a bit of a shine on some spots. i’m looking for some help as to why this is happening. Thanks in advance.
    1 point
  14. I'm giving Aircraft a break for a while, so that I can work on improving my figure painting. In July, I had the opportunity, with 8 other modelers, to attend the Sabot Miniatures Painting Academy here in Louisville Ky. Our instructor for the day, was Brett Avants. Our day started at 7:30AM, and ended around 5:00PM. If your serious about improving your figure painting, or just want to hone the skills you currently have, this class is a MUST attend. Our project for the day was Young Miniatures Siege of Bastogne bust. We learned everything from advanced flesh painting techniques, to simulating woodgrain with different ink colors. A lot of things I had never done before. By the time the class had ended, we all had a mostly completed figure. It was an intense class, but well worth it! Chris
    1 point
  15. Terrible Kids Stuff 75mm miniature I finished, called The Birth of Dracula. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  16. A few years ago I picked up a few of the old mini kits from Geo-Metric. As usual they got lost in the stash until I just found them again. I don't think I've done the Hunchback since the days when I was a little kid building the Aurora kit. The kit comes in 4 resin pieces and two metal parts. It all came packed in two bags along with a pic of the finished model. In the pic, Quasi was holding on to the jester's "crown" the crowd gave him. My first problem was the the hand holding the crown was molded just like the other hand - with an open palm. I just received my new PE pliers and they were strong enough to bend the fingers enough without doing any damage. It's not a perfect grasp, but it'll do. Taking a break from cleaning up the model, I took a look at the vignette. It comes with a disc that doesn't quite fit under the ledge with gargoyle, and then the arch was just left open behind the figure. I took some trusty foam, and cut out a wall, and also added a spacer to make it not feel like the wall was just blocked up. Didn't do to well on that, but at least there's a solid background now. Turning back to Quasi, he got his base coat of tan and then my usual Beige Red for the skin color. Looking it up Charles Laughton had blue eyes, and so I did those. But the figure is really too small to make out an eye color once the pupil was put in. The image had him wearing a light green tunic with dark green tights, his shirt was some sort of beige, and brown shoes. Laughton also was said to have sandy brown hair so I tried to mimic that. With that done I gave his shirt a wash with some Citadel Green shade. Looking at the pic of the crown the colors looks to be red and blue. Finding other pics online - altho B&W, the actually crown part seemed to be a shiny metal. So I broke out V's Duraluminum, and washed it with Nuln Oil to darkened the details. One shade darkening to the recesses of the skin and then 3 highlights later, I was done. I had previously drilled holes in the gargoyle for the pins I had in his feet and I was done. It was then I saw that he was looking no where with his good eye. So I got some V's Ivory, Azure, and Black and gave him a new place to look - at the viewer.
    1 point
  17. Great Quasimodo. Brings back memories.
    1 point
  18. 1 point
  19. This kit brings back a LOT of memories as I did a few of them in my early teen years. I remember at the time, that I thought it was the best paint job I ever did - most likely with those gloppy Testors enamel paints. 🤪 Anyway this was re-released by Round 2 and is 1:12 scale. Comes with a few sprues of parts and then the deck planking in 2 big sheets. I also comes with a large sheet of decals. Starting right in I gave all the parts a coat of Stynylrez tan primer. There was some flash and the deck and box parts had a slight warp to them, but nothing serious. Things went so smoothly I even used the primer as the base color and started in with some Vallejo Dark Brown Wash. My first mistake was painting the skeletons so dark. I knew I wanted them aged. But this was too much. Took a lot to get them to a dark ivory or sand color. The seam down the two sides of the cannon was tough to get rid of. So I solved the problem by dabbing on some Tamiya putty. Got rid of the seam lines and also help the gun have that cast look. My plan was to paint it a mix of deep green and black, then dry brush some bronze over that. I added some of Citadel's verdigris paint here and there. It was then a matter of painting and washing a LOT of wood grain. Only the standing skeleton had color call outs for his clothes, so I just closed by eyes and picked a color for the guy in the box. I wanted them dusty dirty, so I added some gray to the colors to bring down the color value. But I also ended up with some brown pigment to get them even more dusty. The Standing pirates shirt had decals for stripes, but I just did them by hand. Speaking of decals they were VERY thick. The standing guy had a headband in addition to the bandana. But the decal was so thick that even after 4 or 5 coats of Micro Sol, I couldn't get it to snug down. so I just pulled it off. The other place I had a problem was the decals in the squares of the box lid. They too just wouldn't snuggle down into the wood grain. I the end I had to make a lot of slits in the decal film and it still wasn't perfect. Good idea to keep the box lid open. 😉 The map also had a decal, but I didn't want to sand down all the raised detail, so I just painted the map by hand as well. With that I was done. Thanks for looking.
    1 point
  20. As an avid Gunpla builder, I think the sci-fi categories set by the national committee are fine as-is. I am actually a dyed in the wool airplane & tank guy that crossed over into Gundam as an adult, so I can see the genre from both sides. The question of getting Gunpla builders to join ranks with IPMS is a matter of perception from both sides. On the IPMS side, I have seen hostility and ridicule towards people who “only build snap-tite action figures”. I have mentioned before in another thread that I have been told to my face that plastic models should only be of historically significant types, and nothing else. Really? How would a first-timer react to that comment? I have noticed an uptick in sci-fi modeling in recent years, not only in Gunpla, but sci-fi in general. To dismiss the genre as non-serious would be an inaccurate generalization. Some of the Star Trek guys are just as hard core as a Sherman modeler to get the details right. Many of those who dislike sci-fi have no idea (and do not want to hear of) the depth of the rabbit hole - it could even be as deep as the 1/700 ship rabbit hole! Okay maybe not, but it’s close. So there are Gunpla builders who are content to snap their kits together and put on stickers. But didn’t we all have a start somewhere? We built our models with tube glue on newspaper set on the kitchen table, with only the minimum of paints in those little Testors or Pactra glass bottles. Many who stay with the hobby make the progression to more sophisticated methods and eventually turn out better models. The Gunpla guys are no different. With weathering becoming so popular these days, I am sometimes shocked and a little intimidated when I see a Gundam type weathered to a standard equal to the best armor models. One area where the Gunpla genre differs from “scale” modeling is that it allows great leeway in detailing and painting, but that is part of the fun. Yes fun. Remember those halcyon days with the tube glue? But they have their own set of rules, and it can get pretty intense. My opinion is, dial back the snark, and give them a place at the table. They will be judged per IPMS rules like everyone else, so it’s all fair.
    1 point
  21. One could make an argument for that. One could make a better argument if one dropped the adverb "VERY". One could make an excellent argument if one replaced "...in any form..." with " ... hardly at all...".
    1 point
  22. I know others have said it in other posts, but I thought it would be nice to have a specific topic for this. I've seen quite a few conventions from the inside and out, and this one was a winner. Thank you, Las Vegas, for a wonderful convention put on under very difficult circumstances. All the applause at the awards ceremony were well deserved and well earned.
    1 point
  23. I've started in on building the HK 1/32 B-17E/F Flying Fortress for a client. This will be a L-O-N-G term project as he wants almost every aftermarket item available added and the model built as "Old 666", the B-17E that fought off a dozen or more Zeros on a mapping mission over Bougainville in '43. I decided to start with the Eduard Brassin engines. The kit engines are indeed anemic, especially for such an expensive 1/32 kit. Each Brassin resin engine includes a sharply cast cowling, open cowl flaps, and several cowl sections in case you want to display it with the cowl off and the parts on the ground nearby. But NOTE: Eduard sells these "by the number", as in "engine #1, #2; etc. It is important that you order #1-#4 if getting all of them, or that you order the correct individual one for the correct spot on the wing because otherwise the cowl flaps may not have the exhaust cut out in the right spot! 1 of the 4 supplied to me was wrong and I had to modify the cowl flaps for that station. The resin engines are very detailed front and back. If you're NOT going to display it with the cowl off, then nothing for the back is really needed. This can save a LOT of time as one of the biggest resin casting stubs to be removed is on the firewall mount in the back. However, without the rear engine stuff, the engines need to be altered to fit onto the kit mounting pegs. This is easily done by drilling a 9/32" hole in the resin engine bank, which allows it to be slid onto the peg, and also be adjusted forward or back to get it positioned correctly inside the cowl. The Eduard instructions leave a little to be desired....the illustrations clearly show where everything goes, but they're not really numbered as to which to do in what order. To a degree this is self evident...but later on in the assembly process if you get out of place it can make adding some of the parts tougher. The other problem is that some of the parts need trimming to fit well, especially the push rods. Each of them needed trimming on BOTH ends to make them fit between the crankcase and the rocker arms. I also quickly abandoned trying to use the Eduard PE ignition wires. They appear much too flat (2 dimensional) for 1/32 and are much harder to manipulate than the solder wire I used instead. All in all, there are 45 parts that make up each engine, and that's without using anything on the back side! Here's pics of my progress this week...... #3 detailed... Overview of test fitting the engines on the right wing Close up showing how engine bank is drilled to fit the mounting peg in the center, and the fit of the cowling to the wing Engine #4 (above) has since been detailed, but I still have the other 2 to build up. It takes about 1.5hrs to build each one! By the way, the offset/canted prop governor is correct, and even its "base" is keyed to help align it that way. Settle in and grab some popcorn....this one will take a while! Gil
    1 point
  24. We've reached the age and time where the people who moved and shaped (literally) the hobby of plastic modeling are starting to pass on. We can be thankful that such artistic and talented people opened doors for the rest of us to a lifetime of enjoyment. I hope the pride the family takes in his accomplishments, and their loving memories buoy them through their grief. Gil
    1 point
  25. I agree. One thing that gets lost is that new folks to the hobby will get turned off if you're going deep into their pockets before they even walk through the door. And it is often overlooked that you will get money from them sooner or later, either via raffle ticket sales, SWAG purchases (T-shirts, pins, and the like), or indirectly via the vendor tables. That last one sounds odd, but the better the vendors do, the more likely they are to come back year after year, and the patrons will get that taste for the excitement that the Convention brings and they'll likewise keep coming back. That's one reason our local show doesn't charge for walk-ins. Our vendor table rentals cover most of the venue costs, the contest supports itself, and the raffle fills the gap. As long as we break even on our local show, we're happy. Cheers! Ralph
    1 point
  26. Here is a P-40 in production in late 1941… original color from Life Magazine archives…looks like interior green in the wheel wells.
    1 point
  27. Seeing how it’s a Curtiss product, as was the P-40, I’d suggest using a P-40 of the same era for a reference.
    1 point
  28. Nick, I haven't seen anything that will help you, but consider that the XP-55 was exactly that, experimental. Chromate yellow in the wheel wells would be quite reasonable. And given the lack of documentation, no one can say you'd be wrong.
    1 point
  29. Welcome Steve! Glad to see you here as well. This will be a thrill seeing your work here. Kick back, relax and enjoy!
    1 point
  30. What's even better; he's a SHIP GUY! Like Civil War warships? https://flagshipmodels.com/
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. Out of curiosity, I counted the steps from my room to the registration area. The total was 650. Times 3 feet per step yielded a journey of 1/3 of a mile each trip. Do that twice in a day (minimum) and you walked a mile and a third just to get to registration, never mind steps in the venders' and contest rooms. At least the venue was carpeted. On concrete, that could have put a serious hurt on the feet. Next time we have such a venue, I'm going to rent a golf cart and charge for rides to the convention area. I should make enough to cover my venders' room expenses anyway. 🛺 😀
    1 point
  33. Hey Gil - Wanted to congratulate you on a great job with the P-3C Orion--well done, indeed! My brother was a photo mate assigned to VP-5, "Mad Foxes," out of JAX--very impressive unit. I have the Hasegawa kit in my stash with the decals for his squadron. Look forward to the build.
    1 point
  34. Built this one for a co-worker who crewed P-3s in the Navy. Built OOTB; but I did have to make the bat tail art and paint the wing walks since the old kit decals were pretty well shot and I could find no aftermarket decals for VP-24. Now on to that 1/32 B-17E! GIL
    1 point
  35. At least you got the rudder on right. 😁 Dak
    1 point
  36. My wife and one of her girlfriends are talking about a post-pandemic family trip for July 2022 to Orlando. What are the dates of the convention in Omaha so I can get it on the calendar before they firm up the trip dates?
    1 point
  37. 2020 1. 1-10-2020 Israeli Skyhawk 2.2-22-2020 B-25 Wolf Wagon 3.3-21-2020 P-51H PA_Ang 4.4-7-2020 PA ANG A7D 5.04-22-2020 303Sq Spitfire MkV 6.04-25-2020 FW 190D-9 7.05-10-2020 C-46 Yost Pilot 8.5-15-2020 Israeli Mystere 9. 06-04-2020 Hartmanns F-86 10. 06-24-2020 A-10C D-Day Anniv. 11. 07-20-2020 VMA-211 Red tail 12. 07-23-2020 2011 Tiger Tornado 13. 07-27-2020 Albatros D.III OEFFAG 14. 08-11-2020 303 Sq Hurricane B.O.B. 15. 09-19-2020 Leduc 022 16. 10-11-2020 Bf 110 Battle of Britain 17. 11-09-2020 P-40 Lt Welch Pearl Harbor 18. 11-18-2020 Victory 357 19. 12-18-2020 F4U-5 Corsair Thanks for Looking Lets Go 2021...VIVA LAS VEGAS Bill
    1 point
  38. The Victory Ekranoplan 357 is AWESOME. I love building weird and wacky airships, which basically translates mostly into Russian conceptual monstrosities like this. Your looks very nicely rendered
    1 point
  39. Let’s start with the basics, as defined by the US Flag Code. From the US Flag Code, section 1 §1. Flag; stripes and stars on The flag of the United States shall be thirteen horizontal stripes, alternate red and white; and the union of the flag shall be fifty stars representing the fifty states, white in a blue field §2. Same; additional stars On the admission of a new State into the Union one star shall be added to the union of the flag; and such addition shall take effect on the fourth day of July then next succeeding such admission no mention is made in the code of previous obsolete versions of the flag. Here is the rest of the code if anyone cares to look. The one in the VA link is not as comprehensive. We can debate all sorts of things, but if something is not covered in code, it does not apply. I spoke with Sean about this yesterday, and some folks apparent heartburn. It was not meant in disrespect. Period. US Flag Code
    1 point
  40. To date, for almost every hard fact, I have found a exception. That doesn't mean there were M1A2 Abrams tank at El Alamein. Still, there are many things to strange to be believed, but not too strange to have happened. Dak
    1 point
  41. This is an element I have often argued. Where does craftsmanship end and accuracy begin? You read my earlier string However, in the judges meeting we are told we are not judging accuracy, repeatedly. I guess the question is would the average person notice it. They might notice a seam or glob of glue, but the propeller on the wrong nacelle? Mark even brought up the P-47 which won big a while back. Seems there was a big anger because it had some incorrect parts on the engine....at least for that version. I certainly couldn’t tell you it was wrong. The same with the P-38 props. I would not have noticed it as incorrect. On the other hand, I know a lot about tiger tanks that I see wrong. Dak
    1 point
  42. Props on the wrong nacelle is an accuracy issue and should not have been a judging point. except perhaps at the very end when it comes to personal choice. Dak
    1 point
  43. I was a judge and on Saturday morning, I manned the critique table at the door of the model room. We had a dozen or so people come and have us look at their models. Interestingly, a number of these people won awards. This also happened at Chattanooga. This was announced several time and signs were in place. Dak
    1 point
  44. Someone much smarter than I has written that leadership/command/decision-making, "...is disappointing your own people at a rate they can absorb." 😉😁
    1 point
  45. 'A day at the beach'. A deserted beach I would reckon with the sniper weapon being so conspicuous! LOL Nice tongue in cheek model though David.
    1 point
  46. Beautiful job. I also enjoyed the book “A Higher Call“. I have been wanting to build a tribute to Franz Stiegler. Very well done
    1 point
  47. Man, that is so cool. Outstanding job with all of the painting. Would love to build a kit like this. Chris
    1 point
  48. I love this. Takes me back to my youth and how much fun modelling can be. Great job on this.
    1 point
  49. Well done, Kev! The Empire will never be the same now. Bill
    1 point
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