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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. The stencil for the scales hasn't arrived yet, but I'm finished with her besides that I couldn't resist a few pics. Now, I'm reconsidering even needing the scales ... Thanks for looking.
  2. Anybody can do whatever they want. If you have a kit that came with very well done ammo boxes. There's one one to stop you, and IMHO nothing wrong with making a mold and casting copies for future models for yourself. But if you casted up a few thousand and offer them as "Tamiya Ammo Boxes" then you may get a letter from a Tamiya lawyer. The movie production Co's sort of look the other way as they realize the amount of kits the sculptor sells comes no where close to the cost of an attorney going after a sculptor. They also take it as a fan "thing" and a few sculpts or kits sold actually promotes their character. Where they lose patience is when the sculptor/producer makes a lot of noise about the kit, or if it interferes with another Co who may have purchased a license for "X." Then you are sure to get a C&D letter from the lawyers. The Star Trek people (Paramount?) are very protective of their designs as are the Universal Monster Co's. Sculptors/producers never accept recasting since it involves someone stealing their livelihood. Whether or not a subject is licensed, the "artwork" belongs to the artist. Sometimes they can stop the recaster, sometimes they cannot. Being "into" the garage kit genre since the early 90s, I've seen quite a few sculptors/producers quit b/c they can't compete with someone else copying their work and selling it for a fraction of what a legit kit costs. Very few Sculptors can afford a lawyer to go after these thieves. Most times they do what they can - eBay's VERO program, nasty letters, etc... to try and get the guy to stop. But in the end it's less expensive to try and teach modelers that despite being able to get a $200 model for $25, which is usually vastly inferior, it's just not the right thing to do.
  3. Thanks. I had thought about it, but with Vallejo paints, yellow is a weak color and unless I painted that first, it would need coat after coat. Wasn't in the mood for that, so I just used them for splashes of color. For part 5, I finally heard from the scale stencil guy, and I should have it Tuesday (I'm writing this on Monday). Hopefully my next post will show the finale. But for today, I did some more work on the snakes on her head - changed some colors etc... and basically cleaned up the paint job. I added some layers to her hair which was really short of detail, and touched up any oops' with the paint. I also wanted to detail her eyes but every time I complete a part, I would clear coat it. The next step would be the eyes, but something else drew my attention, and forgetting the eyes, I tackled that. 🙃 Thanks for looking.
  4. Very cool kit from Pat Moorea. It was easy to assemble and the parts blended with almost no effort. The only thing was that 2 of the fingers broke in transit, and without noticing, and like a dope, I threw the box out. No worries, I drilled wires into the stubs and with some Aves, created new fingers. Not too shabby results if I do say so myself. Highly recommended! It's in a fairly empty part of my studio wall, so I may get some pin striping and create a little web behind him. Thanks for looking.
  5. Roktman

    One More Thing...

    LOL Thanks. With Magnum being recycled, It's only a matter of time before we see a bust of that, and I have to paint a Hawaiian shirt. 😉
  6. If there's anyone still reading... The scales haven't arrived yet, so I continue to work on the base. Turining my attention to the little pinholes, I was lead to this stuff my a model railroad guy - it's Chinchilla Dust. Evidently they like to take dust baths and the particles of this stuff is *tiny*! It's in a mayonnaise sized jar, and it looks like I'll have it the rest of my life. Becasue the particles are so small that just a little bit of PVA glue, and then a sprinkle of this stuff, and it covers the pinholes without creating little mounds on the model. The white areas are the Dust. From there, I let the PVA set up for a few minutes and then took some watered down paint, and was shocked how the dust absorbed in the paint and instantly changed colors, unlike regular sand. The down side, if it really is one, is that some of the particles are "glittery", so if you just want a dull base, you need to over coat it with a Matte Clear spray. Next, I went back to painting a few more of my snakes. I took a look at a few different species and tried to match their patterns. Before ending this session I also added a few dead leaves (from the vine) to the base. I had added some Realistic water to help the wet look, and just stuck the leaves to the Water. Thanks for looking.
  7. Nice article and WOW what a collection. Sorta vindicates me on being a scale slave... 😉
  8. I saw the video and say ABOUT TIME that the word is finally getting out. I also hang out at The Clubhouse forums. I've been there since the early 2000s having gotten into garage kits in the mid 90s, and it's sad how many producers/sculptors have quit, because they can't compete with their own kits copied and sold by recasters for a fraction of what it costs them to make. To answer the question - It's generally accepted that if you are making a copy or two for yourself, that's ok. But if you start selling them, then you've stepped onto the dark side. And especially so if you pass it off as your own work.
  9. (The model is at a point now where she'll be clothed from now on...) 😉 It was a one step back and one step forward type of day. The stepping back came trying to add some sort of reptilian look to her. My idea was to shade part of her skin a green color and then create a scale pattern over the green. I went looking for different kinds of perforated ribbon or even a stencil, but I had no luck. In the end I added green dots and then stippled gold dots over the green dots. Nope, didn't look good - So I got out my tan V primer and covered it over. I then doubled my efforts and managed to find a scales stencil on a miniatures website (will talk more about it when it arrives). Good news is that it's ordered, bad news is that the order will be fulfilled in 5 to 10 days. I don't if that means I'll get it in 5 to 10 days, which isn't that bad, or they will send it out in 5 to 10 days... So while I was waiting I worked some more on her hair, and the snakes. Finally turning my attention to the base. I already did the B&W primer, so then since green is the default color, I took some of V's Gray Green and added that for the stone work. The vine was also done in an ocher green and highlights to parts of the sculpted stone was done with a toned down turquoise- For the column (not shown) I was thinking about a lighter, almost white gray with some green marble looking stripes. We'll see how that goes. Thanks for looking.
  10. Here's a little bust I was doing while l waiting for the paint and/or glue of Medusa to dry. I took this sculpt of Det. Columbo as a sort of sketch, as it's a bit rough, so I just left it that way. The bust didn't come with a name, so remembering his famous line to solve the case - "Oh, one more thing..." So that's what I'll do when I create a proper base for it. I agonized over the 5 o'clock shadow - too much too little - and back again. It was the first time I did it with paint. (vs. pastels). The other hard part was, after all the time spent trying to make eyes centered, was to have his one eye accurate and a little off. The inspiration - All done . Thanks for looking. CCs welcome. (On the shelf with the other lil busts)
  11. Continuing on with the kit, I first tackled the metal bits of her outfit. The parts were base coated in Gunmetal, and then highlighted in Silver after a wash with Nuln Oil. The rivets were done in a brass to lighten things up, and add more color. From there I turned back to the figure and added some Barbarian Skin Tone, and then highlighted that by adding V's Iraqi Sand to the B skin tone. Next was green to her hair. The snakes are going to be a different green so they, for the most part, were left alone for now. I always paint the eyes black to start, and the lips were done in a Hull Red. Thanks for looking.
  12. Hehe, You'll definitely need you shield for this one. 😉 My son, home sick from school, took over my work room on his Pledge model. The room's set up for only one person, so I had to wait ... My new club does a lot to bolster building. Between items like Pledges, they have a number of topic nights that have wide subjects, not these narrow ones where only a few who build that part of a genre can contribute, as another club (who will remain nameless) constantly did. So my all means pass it on. If it gets even 2 - 3 more guys into their garage or spare room to build, it's a plus.
  13. ( I know nudity isn't appropriate for these forums so I blurred what might offend, just and FYI. Mods feel free to delete in not up to standards.) This build is my Pledge for my local IPMS club. To get guys to build at least one model a year, they are asked in April the name of one kit, and pledge that they will finish it by the October meeting. My kit is the old Visceral Visions Medusa. This is sculpted by Marcus DeLeo. Doing a web search for Visceral Visions turned up nothing, so I guess they are gone... Too bad, it was a well done kit. The parts plus a certificate of authenticity. Mine was #18 - - The parts are for the most part very well done. There are some pinholes and bubbles in the base, and there are two pieces that have been broken - the center spike on the headdress, and one of the loops on the loin cloth. As you may be able to tell, she's not your average Medusa. She's not a snake, tho she does have snakes for her hair. Otherwise she's a very attractive, accurately sculpted pin up kit. Her face from the site - I started out by using some Aves on the larger bubbles and Vallejo putty on the smaller ones. I was also able to scrape off some of the tiniest ones. Once I get it painted I can add sand to the base to help conceal any other ones visible. The gray marks are the Aves repairs ... ... and then my two tone primer job. The arch fits to the base with two large pins, and is a very tight fit. I may just leave it as is, so I can remove it for transporting it around. There is also an arch in the back that also sits on a pin. This one is not as tight so I may get two large magnets to attach it. Again making it easier to transport. Next, I started in on the smaller parts. The two yellow arrows indicate where the repairs must be made. On the headdress, I already drilled a hole and inserted a wire. I'm going to have to think about the loop. The snake above the headdress looks to have had a bubble so big it split the snake in half - but it was quickly glued. The join was a little off center and also the glue became brittle, so that was re-broken, and cleaned out. It too was drilled and a wire inserted, the halves glued and Aves applied. The blue arrow is a part I have no idea where it goes or what it is. Any ideas? Here Aves was applied to the wire and the spike was added. Once dry, I'll sand the epoxy to it resembles the shape that was originally there. For the loop in the loin cloth, I just created a loop with wire and drilled that into the break point. It was the covered in Aves. That too will be shaped, and a hole drilled out once dry. The snakes just to see where each one went. My idea for fixing the loop. Next part coming up. Thanks for looking.
  14. Thanks guys. Yes, Bill, it does look like pilots wings. I'm not sure, but I'll never take for granted where ideas come from. 😉 Oh yeah, Mark. This design came from the comics, but there are fan boy videos on You Tube that make lists and what you saw in the movies are a mere speck of how big the SW universe it - ship wise. I jus started another one - a TIE Scimitar Bomber. 😉 Equally as weird. I had to put these projects on the back shelf for a short while. I was reminded the other night at my local club meeting that "my pledge" model is supposed to be finished for the October meeting, and I haven't even started. They have Pledge nite in an effort to get some of these guys to build at least one model each year. You make the pledge that you will build "X" in April, and it has to be finished by Oct. They also have some sort of point system (I'm new at the club so I don't have it all down yet) and for each model you bring to a meeting you get points toward a raffle or something. 🤔 Anyway my pledge will appear in Figures. Look for Medusa in a day or two... 😉
  15. Roktman

    Bad Fairy

    Thanks guys. 🙂
  16. WOW sold out already. Walking is tough for me anymore so the Read House is out. Guess I ain't going this year. What will really P!ss me off, if 2019 is the same as other years, in that 2 weeks before the Con, guys will cancel, and a whole bunch of rooms at the main hotel open up when it's too late to get a flight. Sigh....
  17. Roktman

    Bad Fairy

    This little figure has been unbuilt on my shelf seemingly forever. It's Freebooter's Bad Fairy. I took one of my orchid mounts where the plant unfortunately died, and used it as a "nest" for the fairy. Everything was painted with Vallejo acrylics - except for the Wings where I used Green Stuff World's Chameleon Colors. Thanks for looking.
  18. Very nice job! I don't think I could just use 6 colors. If I didn't mix enough the first time around, I have a gallon of each before I matched it up again. LOL 🙄
  19. Another TIE fighter from the Star Wars world, Wookiepedia says: Considered a successor to the older TIE/IN interceptor, the Predator-class fighter was still highly maneuverable and heavily armed, but unlike most previous TIEs, it was also equipped with hyper-drives and a deflector shield generated through its blade-shaped wings. It's first appearance Was in the first comic from the Legacy series. This TIE Predator is from Australia's Scale Solutions. A number of years ago when Australia was going to be raising the prices for international shipping, Wayne posted that he thinks he was calling it quits figuring all the business he'll be losing. But while looking up info , I see he still has a WEBPAGE for models and the TIE Predator is still in the inventory. The kit comes in 9 parts giving you the choice between a regular TIE front and one that looks like a grill. it is nicely cast gray odorless resin. I wanted the grill front and after a little cleanup, tried the fit out. It fit so well, that I couldn't get it out. And of course, it's tilted ever so slightly dang it. I tried to spin it a little but was afraid of denting the resin. So it'll stay that way. The edges of the wings looked a little plain, as did the very back of the ball, so I added a little 1/2 round piece of styrene to the edges. Assembly came next. The kit comes with 4 pins to attach the two wings. The instructions tells you how to glue them in so the wings will be movable. Mine were a little miscast, so I just glue my wings in the open position, and primed. The kit doesn't come with a base, so I'll have to figure something out. I also will cut a clear rod to hold it aloft, which means I'll have to drill a hole in the ball. But that's for next time. Check back and thanks for looking.
  20. General, Agreed, "talking" to your postal carrier could be a touchy point. Rather than confront him, I would try to make it more of a friendlier conversation. Because he/she is a govt employee there's no down side for him - only you. You may suddenly stop getting packages delivered at all or you may find some on the neighbors roof. It's a tough one. Good luck.
  21. Thanks guys! I am SO ready to move on to the next kit. I found a nice one that I got way back in '04. LOL And it's only 4 parts. 😉 Stay tuned... Having been a buyer from FP for a while, I've noticed that he has a number of casters that he relies on. Being the guys that do excellent work are busy, I guess he has to reply on second stringers some times. There was a recent video review by UK group, International Scale Modelers, of their model The Milano from Guardian of the Galaxy. He points out a number of things wrong with the kit - I can agree as I also have it - and it was casted by the same guy(s) that did this Avatar copter... Thankfully, FP puts down who the kit was mastered and cast by and from these two kits no matter how "once in a lifetime chance" to get a kit of "X" I will avoid any more kits cast by MMI. But to answer your question I think it's the "buy it or do without forever" scenario, that guys, like me, buy these less than average kits. But as I have a stash that most likely still be here after I've gone room temperature, I'm a bit more selective. I have to really want it, and it has to be from certain producers/sculptors/casters. Otherwise I'm out. 😉 I think there's an added little something to these Studio Scale (SS) guys and I don't have. First I wouldn't have the room, but secondly I don't see the big whoop about an SS kit vs. a similar kit in a manageable size where I can also prolly buy another 3 or 4 kits in addition... But hey, it's big. Guys over at SSM constantly drool over the thoughts of the next newest one (whether or not they actually buy it is up for debate) and IIRC the RPF has a separate section dedicated to SS. Mark, producing a SS kit is big doings. You better be ready to have each greeblie exactly as the original. There are entire websites dedicate to figuring out which kit supplied which greeblie. WAY to much trouble in my book - even if I can charge $800 for a crappy casting. 😉
  22. Thanks Mark!! This session I started out by cleaning up the yellow tips of the rockets, and then went crazy for a few moments and painted green stripes around the yellow. You'd think at this point, the model would just let me finish, but no. The rockets went on the pylons well enough, but the pylons just wouldn't go on straight. Then it gets to the point where I touched the ca, and then the part sticks to your finger with the tiny molecule of ca more than where it's supposed to go with a full coating of ca. UGH. Eventually they did go on. Then I rethought the base I was considering. The copter would have been flying. It also meant that I would have to dismantle the rotor rings and replace the static rotors with circles of acetate mimicking spinning. I wasn't about to do that!!! Finally I remembered that I only put decal film on the decals I was going to use. Coincidentally, on the latest Lou Dalmasso show on You Tube, he tests decals on an extra piece of styrene to see what happens if not using Decal Film. So I did the same thing. Nothing bad happened, so I took the extra numbers and added them to the tail, making sure I cut all the extras from around the printed parts. There was also two rescue in the arrow markers that I added near the cockpit. So here we have it done. Thanks for looking.
  23. AT-99 Scorpion part 6 Only a small update since the 1/144 Sidewinders came in from eBay. But as it turns out it's one step ahead, one step back. Putting the decals on last time, and after multiple coats of Micro Sol, it's obvious they they are not going to settle in. I guess I put too much of the decal film over the top of them. Dang it! So I scraped the decals off and will look for generic numbers from my spare decals. The missiles look great, and the perfect size. As can be seen in the pics, they are from OzMods. The arrow points to one that came with the kit. You can see how distorted it is compared to OzMods'. Arrow points to the one that came with the kit. There is a very fine bit of flash between the pour stub and the missile on each one plus an attachment point mid missile that needs to be removed. The other connection point is one of the tail fins. Once the stub mid missile is cut, the other breaks away cleanly by just rolling the missile over. Once cleaned, they were primed and then painted with V's Zinc Chromate. To add a little color I wanted to add yellow to the tips. V's yellow is pretty weak, so first I had to add white. Each one was a quick dip. Even tho the flash was minimal, because they are so thin, it takes time to cleanup. Leaving them to dry, they will be added next session. Thanks for looking.
  24. FWIW Bass Pro Shops has a number of different gauge (tiny) lead wire. I didn't know about this assortment pack, and bought a few individual spools. Each spool has enuff to last a lifetime. 😉 https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/lead-wire-assortment
  25. Wow, I'm running out of superlatives! Each installment is better than the next. I so look forward to seeing your posts (from IPMS) in my morning email. 🙂
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