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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Congrats too, to all the winners. Judging must have been tough.
  2. Roktman


    This is an approx 1/3rd scale kit I obtained from Mark Warthling. It comes in 9 parts - the head/body, the stone arm, 2 sets of horns (long and short - I chose the short), a base and two name plates. The arm, base and one of the name plates are in translucent resin in case you want to light the kit. Once again it was a case of me jumping into things before taking the start image, but you'll see the clear resin along the way. I started with a tan primer, glued the horns in and then painted the face red. Reddened the face, and painted the hair black - When it came to the arm, I looked around and it was no where to be found. I contacted Mark, and for a little fee he was able to get me another. How can something that big go missing? I have no idea... Here you can see the translucent hand. Anyway, in the background you may be able to see I added a darker brown shadow to parts of the jacket. What I did to highlight the black hair was to use a little blue in it. All shirt references showed it was black, so I mixed a little blue into that to compliment the hair. You can also see the translucent base and the arm with primer. I also painted the zipper steel, and the little emblem on the pull the new Molotow Chrome. That stuff is amazing. Next was tackling the Dark brown leather collar and straps. You can see in the background the arm got it's coat of red - While I thought of it, I painted in the eyes. Hellboy had yellow sclera, with a light brown iris, and then the black pupil. With the squint the model has I just left of the sclera color... I fixed up the coloring on his head and now I'm happy with it. Hellboy is now complete. I didn't mention the base, but being translucent it calls out to be lit. Never having done lighting, I left it open for lights down the road. What I did tho, was dremel out more material in the symbols, and then seeing a miniatures trick I got some matte Mod Podge and mixed it with black craft paint until it was *dark*, then I painted thickly on (avoiding the symbols) the base. Does well with light blocking. It was crazy how many images I went thru before I found an definite image of the emblem on his sleeve. Only found one. Thanks for looking.
  3. My packages seemed to all come in on the same day . The only one I didn't take a pic of is a 1:6 dio kit called "Good Grief" It's an adult Charlie Brown with a mangy Snoopy set in a post apocalyptic world. weird I know. 😄 Here are the others - Scene from the original Omen This is Nosferagalactu. A vampire from the Future This is a more accurate replacement head for the Moebius Models' Frankenstein styrene kit.
  4. Sorry. Didn't see this thread until just now. To me The Tamiya Accent has more pigment in it that the Vallejo and Citadel Wash I use. . I just use it for panel lines. After applying a gloss I apply it directly to the panel lines. It runs along nicely and then wipe any overflow with a Q Tip with spirits. I have seen You Tube videos where the guy (Alex Modeling) will spread it over a panel or section, and after letting it sit for a minute or two wipe the excess away. For washes I really like the Citadel stuff. It's not as pigment dense and though it will take more than one coat to get a darker covering. I feel it gives me more control. If I want it darker from the get go, I use the Vallejo stuff. The other thing in favor of these two is that they are water clean up where I need spirits for the Tamiya stuff. HTH.
  5. Thanks guys for the kind words. The sculptor did a fantastic job. I still can't figure out how he sculpted the 'fro, or for that matter how it was casted without ripping little pieces of mould out of the curls. Hehe, the shirt is just acrylic paint over resin. Working dark to light, its just a coat of Vallejo medium blue, and then looking at a promo pic, the light seemed to come onto his chest, so I got some V. White Gray (or is it Gray White) with a drop of clear satin, and did a sort of zenithal highlight but from a 45° angle onto his chest. That left the tops of the folds light, but the bottom sides the blue.
  6. Here's another recent bust just off the work table. verybody's favorite painter, Bob Ross. He's approx. 1/4 scale and done up with Vallejo paints. Over on the Resin Maniac's page on FB, they are having a Bob - Off. Anyne who bought one is urged to paint it up for the show. On tv Bob used a clear palette that was scuffed up to prevent glare from the TV lights. I saw a few guy's WIP and they all used gray for the palette, so I naturally had to go completely the other way and got to practice my wood grain at the same time. Thanks for looking.
  7. WOW! Everyone's got some nice scores! I've been a good boy since X-mas (but I do have a few parcels coming...) 😉
  8. In the mood for another bust, I had Daenerys Targareon (sp?) sitting on the shelf for some time. Produced in white resin, she came in two parts - the bust/base, and a strand of hair. Cleanup was minimal, and any seam marks hidden was easily spotted and eliminated after a spray of primer. I started out with a base coat of Rose Beige for her skin - Her hair is almost white, so I base coated that with a coat of Beige to start. A highlight of Rose Beige + Light Skin tone. Thinking I found the costume that was sculpted, it looked like a blue, and the cape was blue on the outside and I light tan on the inside. Moving on I highlighted the hair with Ivory, added the dark brown eye brows, painted the eyeballs the same color and then painted the base a Basalt Gray. Her lips got a coat of Cavalry Brown, which is really a dark red brown color. I also speckled the base with a lighter gray for interest, and used V's Burnt Iron Metallics for the emblem. The inside of the cape got a beige highlight. I didn't want her cape and dress to be the same color, so I painted over the blue with a turquoise color from Army Painter. On the screen grab, there is a design that looks like lots of little arrowheads. The sculpt doesn't have that, but only ridged stripes. I added another layer of turquoise to them, and then over painted the stripes with a Pearlescent paint to create a little added dimension. Also her green eyes were painted in. You can't really tell but the strand of hair was also added. There was a gap, but some Aves filled the gap with nor problems. I sculpted the Aves to match the existing hair. I added a 3rd highlight of white to the top most part of the hair stands, and after looking it up, painted the dragon on the emblem a red color. Her bottom lip was painted Rose to brighten it. Then I tried something new, I used Vs Metallic Varnish to the lips and eyes. It went on a little thicker than the others and made the eyes look deeper. She was ready for her final matte coat. After a day, I looked at the bust and there was something wrong. She looked ... sweaty. I must have sprayed her with satin instead of matte. There was also something else with the skin tone. It was still too dark. I mixed Light skin tone with Ivory and gave a highlight to only the upper areas. That looked better. Then I made sure I sprayed a matte coat to seal it all in. Thanks for looking.
  9. Christopher, I think they are. Matter of fact I've completely switched over from Tamiya and Model Master paints. I really don't understand the troubles/complaints I sometimes read on the various forums. They do need to be thinned down (but shouldn't that be an SOP for airbrushing?). I've used water, Vallejo thinner and also their Flow Improver. Their regular Model Color definitely needs to be thinned, but even the "Air" paint gets a few drops of thinner/ Flow Improver. The only other thing that may be a problem is too high a setting on the compressor. Vallejo's documentations says to spray at no more than 20 psi. I shoot my paint at 12 to 15 and that greatly reduces the drying on the tip of the needle.
  10. For me it was with transparent green from Vallejo mixed with future. SPRAY... not enough... SPRAY... not enough...SPRAY... ARRRGGHHH too much. 😞 😉
  11. Roktman


    Lookin' good so far!
  12. Probably too late, but Vallejo came out with a "Mecha" line. FWIW, they have a bunch of metalized colors.
  13. Terrific!. Nice job on the tinted windows. Tried it once;failed badly. 😛
  14. Roktman

    King Seesar

    Very nice!
  15. Don't really remember this guy, but nice job on the paint up.
  16. Roktman

    Godzilla 1989

    Very cool build!!
  17. Roktman

    Bah Humbug!

    Thanks, guys!
  18. I bought this stuff on spec a while ago, and tossed it into my scenics drawer. It was $13 for 32 oz. I don't think it would be worth it for a larger dio, but good for some smaller vignette. I decided for a mini I was building I would try it out. I dug into my collection of little bits of foam from shipping boxes I found the size I liked, and then cut more to fill in the space for the two hills I have planned. Gluing them with Woodland Scenics Foam Glue, I put everything in place. I realized I needed a smaller rise to offset the hills so I tore pieces off some sheet cork I had and added them to the center. Once dry I got out some Dap Plastic Wood that I had put away in a drawer to use as the groundwork. Out of the container it's this brown-red color, but as you'll see it turns to a light brown when dry. First I started out just using my hands, but this stuff is very sticky, and it's best to use some spatula shaped tools. It also help to keep the tools wet. From there things progressed very quickly. And you need to be quick. The Plastic Wood dries pretty fast. It was already starting to firm up in 5 minutes. Keeping it wet slows that time - a little. As you see in the pics as the putty dries it gets lighter in color, a clue that it's time to sand (if you want things smoother). Sanding is easy. The Giant was moulded to be stepping off a boulder. To have come continuity I took some landscaping bark chips and made additional boulders. The bark chips make great rocks by painting them black and then subsequent lighter drybrusings of gray. I also painted the ground a dark brown. From there is was just a matter of spreading some PVA glue around the base, and then with a static grass applicator, put the grass down. For realism, make sure to leave little bare spaces. It's the wilderness after all and not a lawn or golf course. 😉 In the pic the bare spot in the middle is where the Giant will be glued down. More glue and static grass around his feet will complete the base.
  19. I use two puttys - well one putty, one epoxy.. For small gaps I use the Vallejo plastic putty. I still have it with the needle nose applicator, and with it I can lay down a very thin bead. But the best part is that you can come along and with a wet finger, or cotton bud take off the excess. Or, once it's cured, you can use sandpaper on it. For larger gaps, and some of these older resin kits have gaps like the Grand Canyon, I use Aves Apoxy Sculpt. A two part epoxy that once mixed can be put in the gap. There's no shrinkage, and the best thing is that you can shape it with a wet finger or tool. Starts drying in 2hrs, and can be sanded drilled into and all that good stuff. Best part - no stink. Sorry for the commercial. 😉 Just love these products.
  20. Roktman

    Fantastic 4 Susan

    The best place I've found to "hang out" is a forum called The Clubhouse ( www.theclubhouse1.net) . They have a bunch of sub forums, but it's majority is figure kits. Three sub- forums in particular are the "Sculptors Forum" where guys show off their sculpting work, many of which go on to become kits. Susan was discovered this way. I actually watched the sculpt come together. The other one is "New Kits, Special Offers, Coming soon" is a place where you can talk to the sculptor/producer to make your purchases of these new kits. The 3rd is "Members Swap and Sell" where members of the group sell off kits they no longer want. The admins take special care to keep ppl from getting ripped off, in that one has to be a member for a certain amount of time, and is active in the forum community to become a registered seller. Two other places are for those who go to Facebook. One group is Figure Model Kits. It's a Show and Tell type of group, but the admins also allow sales. Another similar group is called Resin Maniacs. Both have friendly people who will give advise when asked, and you see kits for sale from time to time. HTH.
  21. Right from the start, I must admit I'm not the biggest Fantastic Four fan. But I thought the plan for the kit where Susan herself could be cast in clear resin was ingenious. The kit was sculpted by Tony Spangler, and molded and casted by Mark Kaelin. The kit comes in 5 parts - the head and shoulders, the body, a "4" base and a nameplate. Looking at the kit the clear head and shoulders casts was an excellent idea. Pulling it off I'm sure was problematic. Giving it a close look small bubbles can be seen inside and there was one under her nose. Now with it clear, it can't be filled. But with a bath of Future, many of the bubbles became invisible or at least less emphasized. Next up, looking at the colors for Susan's uniform, between the comics, cartoons and now the movies + fan art there are a multitude of colors and styles. So in the end I chose a simple light blue color and a dark blue stripe. I also added a steel color and medium blue to the emblem on the chest. While all that was drying, I turned my attention to the base. Both were colored in a light Steel color, and then then highlighted in blue. Masked up for the blue paint. I felt something else needed to happen with the seams in the clothing. I have some Gundam Markers and thought I could run some blue into the seam lines... no blue. I wanted to do this, so in the end I used the black pen. They are very easy to use, and fairly simple to clean up if you go outside the lines. With that I was all done. Thanks for looking.
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