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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. Created by Rob Schorry, and casted by Real Space Models, the kit are 1/24 models of Vanguard and Explorer1. Sometimes 1/24 will get you a giant vehicle and sometimes the tiniest thing. I think this is the smallest model I ever built. ;) LOL Doing Vanguard first, the kit comes in 2 parts of resin and 6 pieces of wire. All that needs to be done is sand down the sphere halves a little (I guess I could have gone a little further but didn't want to ruin it). After sanding, the parts were glued together, and then it was ready for paint. I didn't have any gloss primer so I used regular black. When that was dry, I applied some gloss, getting it ready for the Molotow chrome Paint Pen. The chrome is terrific!! Instructions say to leave the solar cells black, so the next and final thing is to glue the 6 pieces of wire in place. And that's that. Explorer 1 next... It's an excellent addition to my early 1/24 set of probes. Thanks for looking. You can find a pic of it here:
  2. Can't argue with that. 🙂 The Gillman/Van Tine team are the Lennon/McCartney of clay and resin. Thanks!
  3. I have to say that this movie is in my top ten of favs. The roll of Harry was played by Kevin Peter Hall, a 6'9" actor whose other character of note was The Predator. Our kit comes in 2 pieces- the bust and the base. Molded and casted by Gillman Productions, there is only the smallest of evidence of a seamline across the back of Harry's head. There were no obvious bubbles anywhere on the kit. On the bottom of the base, sculptor Mark Van Tine was kind enough to give me an autograph, along with a little illustration. 🙂 The only negative on the kit was the build in rod to hold the bust to the base somehow got curved backward. So it couldn't just sit without falling over backward. No big deal a brass tube/rod or wooden dowel easily solves the problem. I primed the bust in the tan Stynylrez primer, and then set out to paint the figure. While Harry shows a lot of gray hair, I started off, as usual, with a dark brown. In the pic you can also see I started the lighter first highlight. The teeth was painted with Army Painters Skeleton Bone. This is close to both V's Dark Sand, and Iraqi Sand - it falls in between actually so if one is too dark and the other too light I have my remedy. While that was drying I turned my attention to the base. I knew I wanted to paint the name with the multi color look and I found an example where they used just red and yellow. But first I painted the rock V Gray Black. Sculpted in the flat part there are some leaves, a fern and some twigs. Here you see the leaves and the fern painted. Turning back to Harry, I finished off the first highlight, and then turned to the eyes. All evidence said Harry's eyes were blue, so I started with an Azure circle for the irises. The lines of light and dark blue, and finally a black pupil completed the eyes. I also washed the mouth in Citadel's Reikland Fleshshade, and then highlighted in Ivory. In all the pics, Harry has quite the bright smile. This session, the most obvious change is all the gray hair Harry has. It was actually a surprise how much there was in the mustache area. Next I added a little more dimension to the exposed skin. IIRC I remember added two more levels of highlight. Then final step was attaching it to the base. Rather than go out and look for a brass/plastic rod, I filled the hole in the bottom of Harry with Aves, and then when dry drilled out both Harry and the base. The rod I had was superglued, and held in place until dry. Finally he was finished. Thanks for looking.
  4. Oh cool! I gotta make it down there one of these years.
  5. In an effort to collect Medusa kits whenever possible, I came across this kit at a not so recent JerseyFest (or was it the old Resintopia?). The kit came fro the Morland Studios. The kit comes in 6 parts plus a 60mm round base and the figure is scaled to 32mm. Following the card, I tried to copy the image. The small size of kit was a real trial to my limited abilities. The sculpted base comes in 2 parts, and they are made to attach together, but sitting on the round base, there was extra room. I decided to fill the black base. In the pic you can see gray Aves to fill the basesplitting the difference between rocks and sea. I also used V's Plastic putty to fill the seam between the monster/sea and the rocks. I made the tip of the snout of the monster shades of gray as if it was turning to rock, again a la the Clash of the Titans remake. Don't know how well that comes across being so little of the monster is seen. From there, I concentrated on the TINY details for the figure. There was no decal for the shield, so I tried my best, thinking of the Clash of the Titans remake, and painted on a scorpion. Finally adding some gloss to the scene, and gluing Perseus in place, I was finished. Thanks for looking. Size comparison to a Quarter
  6. Roktman


    Hehe, that's him. I should have remembered having just watched it again the other nite. Thanks re: the red. A while back I bought a red set that Vallejo did for Nocturna Models. Six bottles going from a red purple thru an almost orange. Makes it easy to pick your triad -
  7. Roktman


    Thanks guys. Dave: yes I have Abe. The one I passed on was the Nazi robot guy 😉
  8. Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Congrats too, to all the winners. Judging must have been tough.
  9. Roktman


    This is an approx 1/3rd scale kit I obtained from Mark Warthling. It comes in 9 parts - the head/body, the stone arm, 2 sets of horns (long and short - I chose the short), a base and two name plates. The arm, base and one of the name plates are in translucent resin in case you want to light the kit. Once again it was a case of me jumping into things before taking the start image, but you'll see the clear resin along the way. I started with a tan primer, glued the horns in and then painted the face red. Reddened the face, and painted the hair black - When it came to the arm, I looked around and it was no where to be found. I contacted Mark, and for a little fee he was able to get me another. How can something that big go missing? I have no idea... Here you can see the translucent hand. Anyway, in the background you may be able to see I added a darker brown shadow to parts of the jacket. What I did to highlight the black hair was to use a little blue in it. All shirt references showed it was black, so I mixed a little blue into that to compliment the hair. You can also see the translucent base and the arm with primer. I also painted the zipper steel, and the little emblem on the pull the new Molotow Chrome. That stuff is amazing. Next was tackling the Dark brown leather collar and straps. You can see in the background the arm got it's coat of red - While I thought of it, I painted in the eyes. Hellboy had yellow sclera, with a light brown iris, and then the black pupil. With the squint the model has I just left of the sclera color... I fixed up the coloring on his head and now I'm happy with it. Hellboy is now complete. I didn't mention the base, but being translucent it calls out to be lit. Never having done lighting, I left it open for lights down the road. What I did tho, was dremel out more material in the symbols, and then seeing a miniatures trick I got some matte Mod Podge and mixed it with black craft paint until it was *dark*, then I painted thickly on (avoiding the symbols) the base. Does well with light blocking. It was crazy how many images I went thru before I found an definite image of the emblem on his sleeve. Only found one. Thanks for looking.
  10. My packages seemed to all come in on the same day . The only one I didn't take a pic of is a 1:6 dio kit called "Good Grief" It's an adult Charlie Brown with a mangy Snoopy set in a post apocalyptic world. weird I know. 😄 Here are the others - Scene from the original Omen This is Nosferagalactu. A vampire from the Future This is a more accurate replacement head for the Moebius Models' Frankenstein styrene kit.
  11. Sorry. Didn't see this thread until just now. To me The Tamiya Accent has more pigment in it that the Vallejo and Citadel Wash I use. . I just use it for panel lines. After applying a gloss I apply it directly to the panel lines. It runs along nicely and then wipe any overflow with a Q Tip with spirits. I have seen You Tube videos where the guy (Alex Modeling) will spread it over a panel or section, and after letting it sit for a minute or two wipe the excess away. For washes I really like the Citadel stuff. It's not as pigment dense and though it will take more than one coat to get a darker covering. I feel it gives me more control. If I want it darker from the get go, I use the Vallejo stuff. The other thing in favor of these two is that they are water clean up where I need spirits for the Tamiya stuff. HTH.
  12. Thanks guys for the kind words. The sculptor did a fantastic job. I still can't figure out how he sculpted the 'fro, or for that matter how it was casted without ripping little pieces of mould out of the curls. Hehe, the shirt is just acrylic paint over resin. Working dark to light, its just a coat of Vallejo medium blue, and then looking at a promo pic, the light seemed to come onto his chest, so I got some V. White Gray (or is it Gray White) with a drop of clear satin, and did a sort of zenithal highlight but from a 45° angle onto his chest. That left the tops of the folds light, but the bottom sides the blue.
  13. Here's another recent bust just off the work table. verybody's favorite painter, Bob Ross. He's approx. 1/4 scale and done up with Vallejo paints. Over on the Resin Maniac's page on FB, they are having a Bob - Off. Anyne who bought one is urged to paint it up for the show. On tv Bob used a clear palette that was scuffed up to prevent glare from the TV lights. I saw a few guy's WIP and they all used gray for the palette, so I naturally had to go completely the other way and got to practice my wood grain at the same time. Thanks for looking.
  14. WOW! Everyone's got some nice scores! I've been a good boy since X-mas (but I do have a few parcels coming...) 😉
  15. In the mood for another bust, I had Daenerys Targareon (sp?) sitting on the shelf for some time. Produced in white resin, she came in two parts - the bust/base, and a strand of hair. Cleanup was minimal, and any seam marks hidden was easily spotted and eliminated after a spray of primer. I started out with a base coat of Rose Beige for her skin - Her hair is almost white, so I base coated that with a coat of Beige to start. A highlight of Rose Beige + Light Skin tone. Thinking I found the costume that was sculpted, it looked like a blue, and the cape was blue on the outside and I light tan on the inside. Moving on I highlighted the hair with Ivory, added the dark brown eye brows, painted the eyeballs the same color and then painted the base a Basalt Gray. Her lips got a coat of Cavalry Brown, which is really a dark red brown color. I also speckled the base with a lighter gray for interest, and used V's Burnt Iron Metallics for the emblem. The inside of the cape got a beige highlight. I didn't want her cape and dress to be the same color, so I painted over the blue with a turquoise color from Army Painter. On the screen grab, there is a design that looks like lots of little arrowheads. The sculpt doesn't have that, but only ridged stripes. I added another layer of turquoise to them, and then over painted the stripes with a Pearlescent paint to create a little added dimension. Also her green eyes were painted in. You can't really tell but the strand of hair was also added. There was a gap, but some Aves filled the gap with nor problems. I sculpted the Aves to match the existing hair. I added a 3rd highlight of white to the top most part of the hair stands, and after looking it up, painted the dragon on the emblem a red color. Her bottom lip was painted Rose to brighten it. Then I tried something new, I used Vs Metallic Varnish to the lips and eyes. It went on a little thicker than the others and made the eyes look deeper. She was ready for her final matte coat. After a day, I looked at the bust and there was something wrong. She looked ... sweaty. I must have sprayed her with satin instead of matte. There was also something else with the skin tone. It was still too dark. I mixed Light skin tone with Ivory and gave a highlight to only the upper areas. That looked better. Then I made sure I sprayed a matte coat to seal it all in. Thanks for looking.
  16. Christopher, I think they are. Matter of fact I've completely switched over from Tamiya and Model Master paints. I really don't understand the troubles/complaints I sometimes read on the various forums. They do need to be thinned down (but shouldn't that be an SOP for airbrushing?). I've used water, Vallejo thinner and also their Flow Improver. Their regular Model Color definitely needs to be thinned, but even the "Air" paint gets a few drops of thinner/ Flow Improver. The only other thing that may be a problem is too high a setting on the compressor. Vallejo's documentations says to spray at no more than 20 psi. I shoot my paint at 12 to 15 and that greatly reduces the drying on the tip of the needle.
  17. For me it was with transparent green from Vallejo mixed with future. SPRAY... not enough... SPRAY... not enough...SPRAY... ARRRGGHHH too much. 😞 😉
  18. Roktman


    Lookin' good so far!
  19. Probably too late, but Vallejo came out with a "Mecha" line. FWIW, they have a bunch of metalized colors.
  20. Terrific!. Nice job on the tinted windows. Tried it once;failed badly. 😛
  21. Roktman

    King Seesar

    Very nice!
  22. Don't really remember this guy, but nice job on the paint up.
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