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Everything posted by Roktman

  1. The second kit for the bench probably has to be the smallest 1:72 scale kit I ever built in the form of Brengun's Zeppelin Rammer. There is a little discrepancy between the info on the box and whats being said on the Luft '46 site. The site says: This project was first proposed in November 1944. The "Rammer" was to be towed aloft by another fighter (most likely a Bf 109). Once released, the pilot was to ignite the solid-fuel Schmidding rocket, accelerating to 970 km/h (602 mph) and then launching its 14 R4M rockets at the target. A second pass was then made, this time making a ramming attack with its reinforced wings. It was calculated that at the attack speed the aircraft could cut cleanly through the tail section of a B-17 without great loss of speed or stability. After attacking, a gliding landing was to be made on a retractable skid. Looking in the box, Brengun gives you enough parts to make two Rammers. The back of the box gives you 3 paint schemes, sort of indicating that it saw service. I chose to create the 3rd option - The Trudi - from late in the war. The second two apparently were named. The middle one is Anna. What Brengun lacks in attachment points, it makes up for in detail. The plane has quite an extensive amount of PE for such a small plane. while the Luft '46 page says that it had a rocket motor, the Brengun box says it was a glider, and no rocket motor is included. The plane is also supposed to land on a skid. While there is also no skid included, if you look closely at the panel lines you see this off panel on the bottom. It is the retracted skid. I guess if someone wanted to do micro surgery, that skid could be set up in landing mode. My eyes aren't good enough for that. The cockpit is the first thing that needs to be tackled. For such a small plane it includes a full seat, a stick and a small instrument panel, with 3 indentations for gauges. The insides was painted gray with a dark wash. The seats were highlighted with VMC Red Leather, and then washed with Citadel's Agrax Earthshade. the foot pedals are painted silver according to the directions. Too bad 99% of it won't be seen after the canopy goes on. Closing up the fuselage and getting rid of the seam line, the only other thing that has to be done is glue the vertical stabilizer to the tail. The wings are one piece each - Putting the remaining part together I should have attached all the PE. But I got carried away and started painting. The scheme I chose was RLM 82 (lightened a bit) and a black nose. The instructions say the underside of the wings are to be RLM 83, which looking it up is also green, but the painting guide on the box shows, that I think it's meant to say RLM 76 or 77. I have 76 and that's what will go on there. Check back for the PE installation and my idea for a little vignette. Thanks for looking. The canopy is only sitting in place in this pic.
  2. Roktman

    TROLL !!

    Thanks. Funny you mention that, I bought a something like 1/270 scale vehicle back when I first got the kit. I put it away so I qwouldn't lose it, and now I can't find where I put it. As soon as I do I need to add the (nonworking) lights and I'll get it on the road.
  3. Roktman

    TROLL !!

    Thanks for the kind words! 🙂
  4. Roktman

    TROLL !!

    This build is part of a Challenge in the FB group Figure Model KIts. The idea is to pick a kit that has been on The Pile "forever" and to finally build it. I chose Gillman's Jotnar. It's not my oldest, but it has been hanging around for a long time. The figure comes from the finale scene in The Troll Hunter. I really like this film even though everything is Norwegian, and you have to read the English subtitles. It's a movie based on the newly popular genre of "found film footage." These students were making a documentary, when they fall upon a real troll hunter, follow him and thin is accepted to join him as he goes around the country doing his job. The character in the movie poster is our Jotnar - The kit comes in 7 parts (the base isn't shown) - the body/head, 2 arms 2 legs and the tail. The parts were very clean, and the seam lines almost invisible. A little Aves was used to mate the parts - The problem I encountered with kits like this, is the color. If you search for the Jotnar, all the images look like the movie poster, in that it was filmed in this predawn, cloudy looking blue light. So do I paint it blue or do I paint it as if it were in normal light? I found this image and decided to go the way it would look in normal light - From there I needed to add some snow to him and the base. Since he's enormous, trees and shrubs have started growing on his back and head. I added some Woodland Scenics turf foam, and some tiny roots from real plants to mimic trees. The base title card was painted with the colors seen in the movie posters. Thanks for looking.
  5. Thanks. Hehe, in a Star Wars universe, it could definitely be a fortress on/in an asteroid... ;)
  6. The vignette is based on the scene from Star Wars' Rogue One for those who haven't seen the movie (IMHO the best of the disney SW movies). The Bandai Star Destroyer build was easy, and with it's small scale I left the painting minimal. I left it with a gray underside and a white and white gray topside. The details were highlighted with some V. Gray wash. Jedha City, from JPG Productions, was painted in browns and orange browns and then washed with sepia and brown. From there I highlighted some roof tops in Ivory, and Buff. Then I overemphasized the shadow of the Star Destroyer on the city with Citadels Nuln Oil. Thanks for looking.
  7. Yet another kit that has been in the stash for a long time. Making it's first appearance in the book, Dark Forces Rising, the Scimitar Bomber is from Kessel Run, and sold through Multiverse Models. The 1:144 scale kit comes in 8 pieces of resin and a clear rod for attaching the model to the base. The kit comes with an illustrated instruction sheet, but it's pretty self explanatory except for which way around the cockpit area gets attached. All one needs to do is pay attention to the greeblie pattern and is super glued right in place. The model is very detail for it's size, so painting it up takes a bit of time. I chose to paint in the front window rather than using the supplied decal. While waiting for the paint to dry I came up with a cratered landscape, and planned for a little colony, the subject, of the bombing in the largest crater. It was made with Sculpt A Mold on top of a Michaels pine plaque. It was primed black and then I came back with white primer at a very low angle to highlight the surface textures. Little pieces of different sized square styrene is all thats used to indicates buildings. From there it was just a matter of drilling a hole in the bottom of the craft to accept the larger clear acrylic rod, and then another hole in the landscape. Some tufts of painted cotton indicates the bombing in progress. Thanks for looking.
  8. Very cool! A friend "up the road" from you in Mission Viejo, also took pics, tho he looks like he had more cloud cover. I thought it was always sunny on So. Cal.? 😉 Occasionally I get to see launches out of Wallops, but nothing this spectacular.
  9. Sorry 'bout that. I never got the usual notice when someone writes to my topics I'm following. I check both of my "go to" places - Megahobby and HLJ, and neither one sells them by the set - all individual. But HLJ is selling them at cheaper... https://hlj.com/search/go?ts=custom&w=Tamiya engraving set
  10. Roktman

    Albatross D-V

    Very cool. Another terrific build and paint up!
  11. Um, ok, I would definitely be out of the running for that. LOL 😉 But my $$ would be on Dave Demek (sp?) from PLASMO You Tube channel for having the talent to recreate that. 🙂
  12. This model is another model from deep in the stash. I remember buying the model from the Buy and Sell section of a forum. The sculptor was Chris Lynch, and looking at Boba's size, I'm guessing it's around 1/10th scale. I have no further info on it. Even doing a web search, that title gets exactly 1 hit from a guy on a Star Wars Models website who had it listed on his "wants" page. It's not from one of the movies, but maybe a comic or some book? The kit came in about 10 parts. Boba's body and the bird; Boba's head, his two arms and rifle, the two sand people heads, a gun in a holster, some bag that had no apparent place to go, and the two parts of the birds restraint. It also came with a length of cord, and a length of "pleather". The resin was mostly in good shape, but it did need a little work. I didn't think to take a pic before starting, but here we are with most of the parts attached - The bird was tackled first. With it supposedly from Tatooine, I figured it was to blend into a sandy, rocky background. So the bird was made up of browns and other neutral colors. I figured the model needed a splash of color, so blue was added to the bird's crest and around his eyes. This color choice will come in handy later. The ground work is just a dark sand and and an orange ocher Next turning my attention to Boba, I started filling in the colors that I remembered. There was a few times where I had to look up exactly what color went where. At this point I also painted in the Sand People heads with Iraqi Sand and White Aluminum for the metal parts. Around their mouth was a brown leather color and the bottom of the mouth looked really dark. I ended up painting it a German Gray. The blaster was painted with VMC Gunmetal, and then highlighted lightly in silver. The silver was also used to create the scratches around his armor. It was here I thought the bird needed a little more color, so I took the Cavalry Red I used for his gauntlets, and highlighted the birds feathers. This is where I left it for the day. A few days later I was back and it was time to finish up Boba. The first thing to do was paint the backpack. Here's where a little indecision came in. He seems to have changed his uniform between ESB and ROTJ. In ESB his back pack was mostly green (also green gauntlets), but in ROTJ the backpack was more colorful including an ocher color, a red, and even blue! So to harmonize the model; the red is the same color as the gauntlets, and I reduced the saturation of the blue by adding black, and then I lightened it by adding the gray from his jumpsuit. While this was drying, I glued in the restraints to the birds collar. When the CA on that dried, I wrapped the pleather around the collar, and then according to the line diagram that came with the kit, around the saddle horn and back to the other part of the collar. I dipped the cord in Citadel's Agrax Earthshade, glued it in loops and then just hung it around the Sand People heads. This was another model I could fiddle with forever, so instead I called this one done. Thanks for looking.
  13. Thanks! Being this one was a pretty simplistic design, there was a few touch ups and then glue the arm and hat on. Then I created a simple base from foam, static grass, Aves shaped into a pumpkin, and some lead wire for the vine. Calling this one done. Thanks for looking.
  14. After every build I usually clean up around the desk, and I notice this little mini which had fallen on the floor and got covered by a box. She's Miss Pumpkin Witch, from The Predastore. Since Halloween is right around the corner I decided to move this model to the front of the line. The 1/35 mini is part of the pin-up limited edition series. Mine was number 18 of 200. The model comes in 3 parts - the body/pumpkin, the arm with the knife, and the hat. As usual it's starts with a two tone priming - And then a base coat. What you're seeing here are the stocks before trying a smoky color. That ended up not working and decided to just take it easy and make a very pale purple stockings - Here we have a few highlights on the pumpkin, skin and dress. I also started detailing her face. WOW it's tiny! Thanks for looking.
  15. Thanks! I started following the style of You Tuber Ian E. He uses lots of glazes which he calls basically colored water. Doing minis you can make a larger jump in color values. Medusa is 1:6th, so the jumps are a lot smaller.
  16. Thanks. Designed to be a wall hanger, the guy who casted it, inserted a big staple in the back just below where his "belt" is. With the top of him leaning fwd, it makes it look like all his weight is on his hands and feet.
  17. The stencil for the scales hasn't arrived yet, but I'm finished with her besides that I couldn't resist a few pics. Now, I'm reconsidering even needing the scales ... Thanks for looking.
  18. Anybody can do whatever they want. If you have a kit that came with very well done ammo boxes. There's one one to stop you, and IMHO nothing wrong with making a mold and casting copies for future models for yourself. But if you casted up a few thousand and offer them as "Tamiya Ammo Boxes" then you may get a letter from a Tamiya lawyer. The movie production Co's sort of look the other way as they realize the amount of kits the sculptor sells comes no where close to the cost of an attorney going after a sculptor. They also take it as a fan "thing" and a few sculpts or kits sold actually promotes their character. Where they lose patience is when the sculptor/producer makes a lot of noise about the kit, or if it interferes with another Co who may have purchased a license for "X." Then you are sure to get a C&D letter from the lawyers. The Star Trek people (Paramount?) are very protective of their designs as are the Universal Monster Co's. Sculptors/producers never accept recasting since it involves someone stealing their livelihood. Whether or not a subject is licensed, the "artwork" belongs to the artist. Sometimes they can stop the recaster, sometimes they cannot. Being "into" the garage kit genre since the early 90s, I've seen quite a few sculptors/producers quit b/c they can't compete with someone else copying their work and selling it for a fraction of what a legit kit costs. Very few Sculptors can afford a lawyer to go after these thieves. Most times they do what they can - eBay's VERO program, nasty letters, etc... to try and get the guy to stop. But in the end it's less expensive to try and teach modelers that despite being able to get a $200 model for $25, which is usually vastly inferior, it's just not the right thing to do.
  19. Thanks. I had thought about it, but with Vallejo paints, yellow is a weak color and unless I painted that first, it would need coat after coat. Wasn't in the mood for that, so I just used them for splashes of color. For part 5, I finally heard from the scale stencil guy, and I should have it Tuesday (I'm writing this on Monday). Hopefully my next post will show the finale. But for today, I did some more work on the snakes on her head - changed some colors etc... and basically cleaned up the paint job. I added some layers to her hair which was really short of detail, and touched up any oops' with the paint. I also wanted to detail her eyes but every time I complete a part, I would clear coat it. The next step would be the eyes, but something else drew my attention, and forgetting the eyes, I tackled that. 🙃 Thanks for looking.
  20. Very cool kit from Pat Moorea. It was easy to assemble and the parts blended with almost no effort. The only thing was that 2 of the fingers broke in transit, and without noticing, and like a dope, I threw the box out. No worries, I drilled wires into the stubs and with some Aves, created new fingers. Not too shabby results if I do say so myself. Highly recommended! It's in a fairly empty part of my studio wall, so I may get some pin striping and create a little web behind him. Thanks for looking.
  21. Roktman

    One More Thing...

    LOL Thanks. With Magnum being recycled, It's only a matter of time before we see a bust of that, and I have to paint a Hawaiian shirt. 😉
  22. If there's anyone still reading... The scales haven't arrived yet, so I continue to work on the base. Turining my attention to the little pinholes, I was lead to this stuff my a model railroad guy - it's Chinchilla Dust. Evidently they like to take dust baths and the particles of this stuff is *tiny*! It's in a mayonnaise sized jar, and it looks like I'll have it the rest of my life. Becasue the particles are so small that just a little bit of PVA glue, and then a sprinkle of this stuff, and it covers the pinholes without creating little mounds on the model. The white areas are the Dust. From there, I let the PVA set up for a few minutes and then took some watered down paint, and was shocked how the dust absorbed in the paint and instantly changed colors, unlike regular sand. The down side, if it really is one, is that some of the particles are "glittery", so if you just want a dull base, you need to over coat it with a Matte Clear spray. Next, I went back to painting a few more of my snakes. I took a look at a few different species and tried to match their patterns. Before ending this session I also added a few dead leaves (from the vine) to the base. I had added some Realistic water to help the wet look, and just stuck the leaves to the Water. Thanks for looking.
  23. Nice article and WOW what a collection. Sorta vindicates me on being a scale slave... 😉
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