Keith Pruitt

Wow...VERY nice! Great work!!!

Glad to help, Rusty...Kenny's a great guy, you'll like working with him.

You might check with Kenny Loup...he might be able to help you... http://gatorsmask.com/

So sad...and so beautiful, at the same time!! Outstanding work!!!

Looks great!! Nice work!!!

Very nice!! Great weathering...very realistic depiction of a "midnight express car"!!

I had a very similar issue with kit decals a couple of years ago...since the kit was being built as a review for a magazine article, I called the editor to explain the problem. Less than an hour later, the kit distributor's Director of Marketing called me. He explained the decal manufacturing process to me...first time that I'd ever heard it. I had no idea that there are only two or three companies in the world that make decal paper. Anyway, toward the end of a paper run, he said the adhesive container could get low and then too little adhesive gets on the last sheets of paper (think an inkjet printer cartridge running out in the middle of printing a large document). If the paper manufacturer doesn't catch the error, that particular paper might be sold to a decal company, which (also not knowing about the adhesive) prints decals and carrier film on the faulty paper. Those decals essentially don't have any adhesive under them, and won't stick.

Thanks, Gil!

Thanks, Clare!

It's easy to compliment nice work...and yours is definitely that. I'll see if I can post a link...I'll have to wait 'til it's published, and that date is up to my editor...<sigh>

Thanks, Dick, Mark and Bill. Mark, you'd like this kit...simplistic, but it has better surface detail than you'd think. I added some IP & side console decals from the spares box, just so the cockpit wouldn't be so bare. Bill...that is NICE!! Hartmann's ride, from the numbers. Beautiful work!

Finally finished one... This is the HobbyBoss "Easy Build" F-86F-40. Not a lot of cockpit detail, but shape and surface detail are fairly nice for the scale. The air brakes were molded to be open, but one "hinge" was broken in the box, so I closed them. This build was done as an exercise for an airbrush review... Also, I caught an oversight, and painted the wingtip lights after taking the pics. Comments and criticism are welcome...

Thanks, Chris!

Thanks, Ed and Mike!

Finally got a chance to deliver this model to my future Son-in-Law...

I have... Badger 155 Anthem...great, general purpose, double action, siphon fed...use it on virtually every project (I actually have two of these, one for enamels and one for acrylics) Badger 100G...good, small cup, gravity fed...use it for small areas, some detail work. Peak C-3 from bearair.com...great, double action, gravity fed...use it on most projects. Badger 200NH...great, single action, siphon fed...good for base coats, single color paint jobs. Renegade Velocity...outstanding, double action, gravity fed...use it for fine lines and detail work. Check the Badger airbrush website for the "Garage Sale"...they have some good demo brushes at very low prices. Bearair.com also has a good selection...I've had two Peak airbrushes, and I liked both of them.

I follow pretty much the same procedure as Ed... When I open the jar, I stir it with a craft stick to mix it...then I use a toothpick to apply it to the seams. When I'm finished, I throw both the craft stick and the toothpick away.

Once you pass 500, I'm sure the "fudge factor" kicks in...I don't think I even know anyone else that's built THAT many models... :D :D :D

Thanks, Steve!

Thanks, Les! Good advice!

Thanks, Larry!

Thanks, Bob and Mark!

Model Master, I'm not that familiar with the 'brush, but I'm guessing it is similar to the Aztek. First, I think 50 lbs of pressure is way too much...I would suggest a regulator that can adjust down to 10 lbs or less. Can't remember the recommended pressure (I had an Aztek and used it for two years) but I think it's 20-25 lbs maximum. I usually used 10-15 lbs with mine. The spitting could be from tip dry...acrylic paint drying on the needle or in the tip. An acrylic retarder added to the paint might help. Lacquer thinner is way too strong to clean this particular airbrush, as it will ruin the seals. Sadly, I'm speaking from experience here... I switched to a more traditional airbrush, and never looked back. Actually, I did go back and try the Aztek with acrylics, but found I just didn't like it anymore. On a new airbrush, buy the best that you can afford...Badger, Paasche, and Iwata all make good airbrushes. I've used all of them at one time or another. I recently got a Peak C-3 from Bearair.com (general purpose, gravity fed) and have really liked it...inexpensive and it works very well. Also, I use my Badger 155 Anthem on some aspect of almost every project (general purpose, siphon fed). There are others on the forum that will have good advice for you...

Thanks, John and Pete! Seems like everybody has some kind of story to share...Keep 'em coming, all!

Thanks, Chris...I've also found that lacquer thinner will definitely light you up if you get it on an X-acto nick...woof!