MAShelley

This is basically what I do, except that it's all digital, tracked in a spreadsheet (extra bonus statistics!), and grouped into subfolders (by category and subject) along with links to online references, photos I've copied, scans of reference material, etc. I find it easier to manage than a stack of paper. But that's me. Normal people probably wouldn't go that far. mas

I checked the hotel website a couple of days ago, and it also showed sold out, but as a Hilton Diamond member, it would let me go ahead and book a room. . . for $880/night. I'll wait for the block to open up, thanks.

At the risk of making this a zombie topic (i.e. raising it from the dead)... I just put Tamiya masking tape on the canopy, burnish around the frame with a toothpick, and cut off the excess with a (preferably new) blade. Usually multiple small pieces are needed because of the curvature. A more detailed discussion (with other methods) is at https://modelpaintsol.com/?s=canopy+masking&post_type=guide Or if you have a vinyl cutter you might try searching at https://www.scalemodelpaintmasks.com/ I have no affiliation with either of these sites.

I've used invisible thread (about 0.004") and strands of wire pulled from broken audio or computer cables. I have some Uschi elastic rigging thread but I haven't had success with it yet. (User error, I'm sure.) To my eyes, guitar strings look too large for 1/72 scale.

One thing I like about Celluclay is that you can easily color it. Adding a blob of acrylic craft paint in the mix will tint the whole batch. That way if it does shrink or crack, it isn't as obvious.

Nice. I've got a Hubley Duesenberg (the town car) in the closet that's been half-finished for 40 years.

I like the T-38, but I haven't seen a lot of 1/72 kits out there. There are a few in 1/48, which I believe already have NASA markings available. I'd like to see an ER-2 but not holding my breath. When it comes to cars, tanks, etc, I got nothing.

Hi Dan! Texas Outlaw Modelers Society is not defunct, it was just resting. I believe we've applied for a charter but it hasn't gone through yet. No real website, but there is both a page and a group on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/TexasOutlawModelers/). Meeting info can be found there.

Very impressive! Are those the kit wheels or aftermarket?

I also use Walthers Solvaset, mainly because that's what I have on hand. If it's too strong for the decals that I'm using, I dilute it with a little distilled water. I've also used floor polish (Pledge with Future Shine) and it works okay.

For #1, we use an Excel spreadsheet. There are some formulas in the background that create a long text string of everyone's email address that can be cut-and-pasted into an email. I find this easier than managing a mailing list for a particular piece of software that the next secretary may not use. I can't speak for #2 since that is handled by someone else. However, we also have a #3, which is 'members plus other people in the region that we want to advertise our show to.' This is handled using Constant Contact. I can't provide an opinion on it since I don't manage that list. We also have a Yahoo Groups list, which is free and pretty easy to manage, but everyone seems to have forgotten about it and no one knows who the administrator is. Keep good records! mas

IPMS-Houston Presents ModelMania 2015 Just southwest of Houston at the Stafford Centre, 10505 Cash Road, Stafford, TX This year's theme is "Technicolor" General Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children, waived if you are entering the contest. Doors (and vendors) open at 9am Judging begins at 1pm Awards ceremony at 4pm For more info see the website at http://www.ipms-houston.org/ Or contact show director Tom Moon tmoongm@gmail.com Here's the flyer: ModelManiaPamphlet2015ver08.pdf

Looks great! Any suggestions for a reference on the differences between the N and G versions? (I have a 1/72 104G in the closet.) Now you just need an XB-70 to go with it.

It also works great on clear parts. Just dip them in a cup of the stuff, or brush it on. Makes plastic look like glass.

I've successfully shot Vallejo Surface Primer (the grey stuff) at 15-20 psi unthinned with a gravity feed airbrush. I tried thinning it a bit with windshield washer fluid (which is just water and alcohol; a good cheap thinner for acrylics) but it didn't improve it. While spraying it looks like it pools up in corners, but does indeed dry tight and smooth. My notes say it tends to dry on the needle, and if you mix it with lacquer thinner it makes goop, so don't try that. Overall I like it. Tamiya in a spray can is easier to use, though.