MAShelley

I appreciate the photos showing exactly where the reviewer ran into problems and what changes were made. Thanks!

Very impressive! Are those the kit wheels or aftermarket?

I also use Walthers Solvaset, mainly because that's what I have on hand. If it's too strong for the decals that I'm using, I dilute it with a little distilled water. I've also used floor polish (Pledge with Future Shine) and it works okay.

For #1, we use an Excel spreadsheet. There are some formulas in the background that create a long text string of everyone's email address that can be cut-and-pasted into an email. I find this easier than managing a mailing list for a particular piece of software that the next secretary may not use. I can't speak for #2 since that is handled by someone else. However, we also have a #3, which is 'members plus other people in the region that we want to advertise our show to.' This is handled using Constant Contact. I can't provide an opinion on it since I don't manage that list. We also have a Yahoo Groups list, which is free and pretty easy to manage, but everyone seems to have forgotten about it and no one knows who the administrator is. Keep good records! mas

IPMS-Houston Presents ModelMania 2015 Just southwest of Houston at the Stafford Centre, 10505 Cash Road, Stafford, TX This year's theme is "Technicolor" General Admission $5 for adults, $2 for children, waived if you are entering the contest. Doors (and vendors) open at 9am Judging begins at 1pm Awards ceremony at 4pm For more info see the website at http://www.ipms-houston.org/ Or contact show director Tom Moon tmoongm@gmail.com Here's the flyer: ModelManiaPamphlet2015ver08.pdf

Looks great! Any suggestions for a reference on the differences between the N and G versions? (I have a 1/72 104G in the closet.) Now you just need an XB-70 to go with it.

It also works great on clear parts. Just dip them in a cup of the stuff, or brush it on. Makes plastic look like glass.

I've successfully shot Vallejo Surface Primer (the grey stuff) at 15-20 psi unthinned with a gravity feed airbrush. I tried thinning it a bit with windshield washer fluid (which is just water and alcohol; a good cheap thinner for acrylics) but it didn't improve it. While spraying it looks like it pools up in corners, but does indeed dry tight and smooth. My notes say it tends to dry on the needle, and if you mix it with lacquer thinner it makes goop, so don't try that. Overall I like it. Tamiya in a spray can is easier to use, though.

I'd also like to thank the organizers and volunteers that put on this year's CALMEX. I thought it was a good event.

I like the Xuron 2175ET, but I have had problems with using it on very small and delicate parts (Roden 1/72 biplane interior struts, to be specific.) It has worked fine on everything else.

A compressor designed specifically for airbrushing will be quieter and smaller than a general-purpose compressor. That's the only real advantage I can think of. Mine (a Grex) doesn't have a tank, so it cycles on and off frequently as I spray, but I'd rather put up with that instead of the deafening racket of the Sears 10-gallon that sits in a corner.

Two regulators should work fine, but I can't think of any benefit from using more than one. The brush will get whatever the lower pressure setting is. (As long as you have them in series with one another, not in parallel.) I started with a Sears version of a Badger 200 single-action in the late 1970s (I think) with a 1.5 hp compressor and 10-gal tank. Just upgraded to a Grex TG3 (or TG2; I forget) and dedicated airbrush compressor last year. No tank on the new one, but it seems to work just fine. I still have to do a lot of sanding and repainting, but that's operator error and not the fault of the equipment.

If you want to be really paranoid cautious, make a color scan of the decal sheet before you start. Then if all else fails, you can print a new set on decal paper.

I shoot/brush it straight and clean up with windshield washer fluid. It's not even Future (I think the official name is Pledge with Future Shine); I use an old jug of Brite. Seems to work just as well.

If your tap water is anything like mine, then distilled water is required to avoid white deposits.