PeteJ

555 looks to be pretty common. 556 not so much. Could you use the 555 kit to scratch up something that looks like 556?

I believe that the assumption that someone will cheat seems a little misplaced. Yes, there are those who cheat, but then that can happen in all categories not just OOB. "Group" builds shown as the work of one person. Using parts painted by another is a common complaint in auto categories. And so on. However, I would like to believe that the vast majority of people who enter, play by the rules. I often think the the accusations of "he cheated" is the sour grapes of a looser in the tight contest. The basic tenant of Nationals is that people will be honest and play by the rules.

I think this category causes more questions than any other, but in my mind it is pretty clear. Build the parts that came in the box, according to the directions in the box. Add any paint or decals you would like and you are okay. Try to tap dance around the rules and you are not. If the instructions tell you how to build rigging or seatbelts, follow the instructions and your fine. Granted IPMS category rules have some exceptions by class but you push the boundaries of these at your own risk. Last, keep it simple and show off your basic modeling skills.

It looks like Rusty knows more about the manufacturing process than I so I will defer to him for that. I will start by saying all photo etch can not be soldered easily. Stainless required special flux and solder and even then sometimes it doesn't work. If it is brass or nickel silver then you are in great shape. Easy to solder with silver based solders or lead if you can still find it. Easiest way to tell is to try a piece of the fret and see if it solders. My procedure is to take a sanding stick and sand the surface to be soldered. This removes any odd edges or burrs. It also roughs up the surface to help the solder stick better. Next I soak it in acetone. Based on Rusty's comments this may not be necessary, but I do it to make sure I have left no oils from my skin when I handled it. From that point on, soldering should be normal.

Great build, nice weathering. The figures really add a lot. The trenches dug by the prop is a really nice touch. Just one negative and I present it with the best intentions. I see nothing that tells the story of why he went down. Did he run out of gas?

Well, life does get in the way of what is important some times. 😜 Welcome back!

With the enamel sources drying up, I really wish Tamiya would start importing their little square bottles of enamels. I managed to get a few out of Japan and they are as good as their acrylics and lacquers. Between their newer jars of lacquer, if they brought in the enamels they would have the model paint market covered.

I don't know of any local sellers but I just Google woods metal and come up with a lot of places that sell 1 pound ingots or other forms. I would get it from one of the scientific suppliers. I seem to have had better luck with them. To be honest with you, I bought mine a long time ago so I am not sure where I got it. I would bet it was in Pennsylvania for an interesting reason. The maker was using old Hershey's molds. My pieces came looking like single squares off of a Hershey bar. 😆 I originally bought it to use as a low temperature solder. It really works well for that. If you want something with a higher melting point but below boiling water, you can also get Rose metal. That melts at about 200 degrees. I came to use it when soldering parts together on a model. I often I have to solder two or more pieces close to each other. The problem is when you go to solder the second piece, it melts the solder on the first piece and it falls off, so I use a lower temperature solder on the second piece. Works great when you can't get a heat sink between the two pieces.

Ok, here is a thought for you all. Woods metal is readily available and can be used in models. It has a melting point of about 160 F so well below boiling water. In the case of a nose mount you could melt some(just to a liquid) and place the nose in cold water so it keeps the plastic cool, and pour a little metal in. It will then be a perfectly fitted weight. It is really very close to lead in weight. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wood's_metal Like lead the vapors are toxic, so use in a well ventilated space.

All the model web sites I can find list it as a 1973. https://www.modelroundup.com/product-p/amt-38518.htm

Most of the water build up is in the tank! You need to drain it frequently. A water trap only helps keep it from getting out of the tank. I drain my at least once a month to keep it dry. In a high humidity area after every use would be appropriate. Oh and not every tank has the drain at the lowest point on the tank. Most pancake compressors have it on the side slightly above the bottom. Be sure to tip the tank to get as much out as possible.

👍

https://www.ipmslv.com/2021-ipms-nationals

I really feel sorry for the guys from Texas. Very much stuck between the cliff and the deep blue sea! As I mentioned, I have canceled already because I am one of those who is unlikely to leave the hospital if I catch this bug. Having said that, someone here said they had registered already but won't be going. They decided to leave the registration fee as is, as a small effort to help out. I was wondering if this really helps the group or is too little, too late? If it helps then I would be all for doing the same and encouraging others to do so also.

I am surprised that no one has posted this here or anywhere else on the the rules for the national convention. This is on the main home page of IPMS. It tells me that IPMS is aware for potential legal liability for injury resulting from catching Covid 19 by attending any contest or show and that the risk is higher than normal. Each of us needs to decide if the risk is worth it, but we stand warned. No complaining if you go and get sick. You have been warned. Going forward, the following disclaimer needs to be added to all show flyers as well as your posting on the IPMS/USA event page: “In light of the current pandemic situation, please be aware that neither IPMS/USA nor its Chapters are liable for any potential transmission of illnesses. Those planning to attend this event should (a) follow existing safe social distancing recommendations and (b) abide by any local or state regulations regarding gatherings.”

Rick, thanks for getting back to me. Unfortunately I will not be attending San Marcos. 3 heart procedures since the start of this covid-19 thing would seem to make it prudent to not travel.😷 I am looking forward to volunteering for Las Vegas. I should have a year of practice with the camera by then.😁

I have been painting this stuff for years and you have to do three things. 1- clean it with acetone or lacquer thinner. Most brass has a coating to keep it from oxidizing. Second- scuff it lightly with a fine grit sanding stick. This will give the surface "key" so the paint will stick. 3- prime it with a good brand of primer. My favorite is Tamiya white. This will give you a flat finish that your paint will stick to. Just a heads up, I use this process for painting with lacquer. You should be able to put an enamel paint on Tamiya primer because it is lacquer but you may run into paint incompatibility issues. If that is the case, use a enamel primer of the same brand as your color paint. If you change to lacquer for you color coats, then either rattle can Tamiya lacquer or their new jarred LP paints would be a good choice.

Interesting pieces. The paper look much better than the metal. I would like to add a comment trying to not be critical. I see a lot of palm trees in south pacific dioramas and most often they show the trees shaped like an umbrella. The real deals actually have a shape more like a dandy lion, often with dead palm fronds hanging under the green fronds. The classic umbrella shape only seems to happen in areas where the trees are groomed for a garden.

Got to love Vegas! Not so sure about a convention there in August (average high at 102) but there are plenty of places to escape to with A/C. Also hoping that there are a few good shows in town. The regulars are pretty spectacular but a headliner would be nice. Penn and Teller have a regular show at the Rio. They are really great entertainment. Also a great place to bring you spouse. Plenty to do besides gambling.

Thanks Nick.

Do we have dates yet for Las Vegas?

Oh, and by the way is anyone interested in picking up my reservation at the Embassy Suites?

I saw a description of pandemic relief as a three legged stool. Leg one is self quarinitine and social distancing to reduce spread. Leg two was an effective treatment after someone developes it. Leg three of the stool is a vacine to prevent people from getting it. Right now we only have one leg(distancing) and the hint of a second leg(treatments that are showing promise but aren't a sure thing). It is very difficult to stand on such a stool with confidance. I have had three heart procudures since March(the last one in a covid restricted hospital) and much as I would like to attend(had my reservations already) I am not going to sit on that stool this year. Hope to see you all in Vegas

Earlier in the year, Len had asked anyone cancelling hotel reservations in the Embassy Suites to contact him so he could give the reservation to someone else. I emailed him directly on the subject but have not heard back from him. I would bet he is swamped but I could use an answer. I want to give the hotel appropriate notification so that they can fill the room, but would rather have a prime room go to another IPMS member if they want it.

If you want a great tool that is going to last forever buy an American Beauty. They have been doing this forever and a quality industrial machine isn't all that expensive. https://americanbeautytools.com/Soldering-Irons