sumterIII

The area I need to fill is almost 1/4 inch deep and 12 inches long, I was thinking of using red or green glazing putty or bondo because of the large area. Any ideas or thoughts from anyone here? Thanks

My first thought for ships would be dry brushing, not change the base coat. I see ships going and coming out of Charleston all the time, as they move out they get darker. Same for aircraft, I watch F-16's flyover all day, on the ramp they look medium gray but overhead at say 500 feet they look black. I'm talking about the underside here not the top with FS36118. Real life seems to go the opposite way, darker not lighter the further you go.

I build mostly ships now but this question could apply to anything. I have seen many builds that have almost a bleached out effect, some call it scaling. Pictures can give false indications as you are never sure what film or settings are used and even the lighting. So is there a general rule of thumb or is it totally subjective?

I nominate the XF85 Goblin

Ron do you have a name or part number for this tool?

Thanks guys for all the tips. I have the Small shop set for rolled bends, Standard Rolling Set, and 2" Mini Hold and Fold workstation. I gave up trying to make the double S bend with one rail. The rail would twist and bend upward. A double roller would have been better, like the kind I used to use in the factory for shaping large sheet metal panels. As far as I know there is no such machine made for PE. The process was similar to what Vont described. Rusty the egg carton idea is great. I'll have to give that one a try for sure.

I'm having some difficulty with making the bends for railing on two kits. One is 1/350 and the other 1/700. Both kits have multiple rounded shapes to fit along the upper levels. I have the small shop bending tools but the rails seem to curl upward as I form them around the wood dowel. Many of the bends are S shaped which are even more challenging. Anyone have a few tips that could help me? Thanks

I've used that on a couple of 1/192 builds. It worked out great! If your working on one of Rusty Whites Ironclad kits it about the best thing I could find for running through the stanchions. I also bought a number of sizes of the mono line from Wal-mart and three sizes of fly fishing line from a specialty shop.

If you want a simple way try this, lay the upper fuselage + wings on a printer/scanner. Now scan and save as bitmap. Now use the scan to test fit your tiger strips.

Hi Anthony Back in the day when I was painting cars (1 to 1 scale version) we used epoxy primer with a 'flex' agent added to the paint. You can get a quart at any auto body supply house that will last you forever. I would not recommend using it in your airbrush. You can get a less expensive jam gun that will do the trick http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/as.../qx/product.htm Or stop by a auto paint shop and just have the guys spray it for you. Then paint with any enamel paint for the picture. The problem with polyethylene is it's semi-flexible, so you need to do it right the first time. Don't waist your time or money on paint that was not meant to work on this plastic.

I have less a problem with that by using enamel or lacquer rather than acrylic. Lightly scrub the spinner with a scruffy pad, wash with warm soapy water let dry then paint. You should not have adhesion problems. I never trust acrylics when I have to over mask. I painted this V2 using this process and never had a problem.

Have any of you used automotive pin strip tape? You can pull it without breaking and form it to fit around any surface.

Nasty seam on forward secondary gun mount. No room to work, impossible to sand or fill. shim the ends this one took .025 on the lseft and .010 on the right. new .010 sheet bulkhead New bulkhead after primer

Price: US $1199.99 You must have bought a lot of books

That is the main reason I have been turned off from contest for many years. And why I seldom if ever compete anymore. The contest I have attended in the past have all gone the way of pretty and clean. I understand they have to figure based on set rules, not putting anyone down for that, but not at all like the real world. Just don't see that as art, unless my art professor was wrong, which I thought so on more than one occasion I prefer the people's choice award over any of the others. If I build it and non-judicial types like it then I have accomplished something. I build for myself now or when someone ask me, and am very happy with that. Just my 2 cents.

I have not done this for a long time but I always used stretched sprue. Not many kits have raised panel lines anymore. I use the JIM BAUMANN method to make the stretched sprue. You can find it in our newsletter 1st Quarter edition 2009 http://www.sumter-shawafb-ipms.org/ or in modelwarship.com

Top of my list is the 1/32 scale F-15E for a buddy retiring next Dec. For me my 1/700 Dragon BB-38 and to finish the year my 1/350 Bismarck.

Hey anyone have any spare Japanese flags for 1/700 scale ships? All I need is one let me know and I'll send address. Willing to pay postage. Thanks Edit Flag sent from fellow modeler Thanks Jose!

Tim All NATO units were camo, the CONUS trucks were blue.

Has anyone used drywall patch and sealed it with super glue? It's quick easy to clean with damp cloth and sets up in no time. Also easy to get and cheep.

Especially with 1/700 parts!

I do the same thing but I use a brass tube. I cut the end so I have two halves then bend them out and shape it into a paddle, sorta looks like a samll boat prop. Had it for years and it works great. The problem I was talking about is when the lumps don't always mix all the way. Or you get samll dried bits from the top of the jar. That's when I use the strainer. What's left is airbrush useable paint, free of lumps and dried bits.

I see more with Acrylic, but if you catch enamel soon enough you can save it. I noticed Testors tend to clump more if I mix thinner direct to the bottle. I try and avoid that now by pouring it into another bottle, using only what I need at the time.

One problem I have run into is opening an old bottle of paint that has been used before and finding clumps. It’s not always possible to remix this without thinning to a point of unusable as paint. It may work okay for a wash but not for painting. My solution was to strain it through panty hose after remixing. What is left over is placed in a jar and allowed to soak on a small amount of thinner. After a few minutes you end up with a color wash, which then goes back to the strained bottle. This added just a little thinner to the clean/strained paint and still keeps it to a point that I can hand paint or use in my airbrush. Just make sure you tell you wife why you need the panty hose, might keep you out of trouble

Super glue reacts to water, so when you see smoke it’s coming from the heat generated by the reaction to the water on the material or body part. If you smell the smoke it has a very pungent odor, a chemical smell that will burn if inhaled. That’s why you should use it in a well ventilated area. Here is a link for more details; http://home.howstuffworks.com/question695.htm MSDS with hazards; http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/safety/MS...UPER%20GLUE.htm