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Will

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About Will

  • Rank
    Assembler
  • Birthday 07/19/1964

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Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Will
  • LastName
    Kuhrt
  • IPMS Number
    46746
  • City
    Columbus
  • State
    Ohio
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Columbus Ohio
  • Interests
    1/48 and 1/32 aircraft primarily WW2 and modern jet.
  1. And after all the hard work it would really stink to have the paint pull off. That already happened to me once.
  2. Ron, That sounds like a really great technique too. I have liquid mask already! It amazes me that the topic of painting spinners of WW2 aircraft isn't talked that much in tutorials, etc. There are lots of photographs in the magazines of WW2 planes with striped spinners that are nice and crisp, but in the articles they never talk about how the builder did it. Thanks again, Will
  3. That's actually a pretty cool idea. Do you think it would be possible to have the circle template act as the actual mask? For example, you stick the spinner into a hole so that the bottom 1/3 is exposed and paint it red, and then stick the spinner into a hole so that only the top 1/3 is exposed and then paint that part red next? But, I bet the template won't give you a very good seal and you'd get underspray and mess it up.
  4. Thanks for the idea Gil. I really appreciate it. You're right, the Tamiya tape and the other 1/32 tape I have want to bind as you wind it around the curve.
  5. I need some suggestions on painting striped nose cones. My 1/48 Mustang has a nose that is red on the tip and the base with a yellow center. I painted the entire nose yellow, but masking seems to be a HUGE challenge due to the conical shape. It's very difficult to have tape remain parallel with the base of the nose cone. I have even tried working with tape that is about 1/32" wide, but that doesn't work well, especially when you try to mask off the tip area. Any ideas?
  6. If you want to learn more about decanting, there is a good video demonstration on YouTube by a user named hyperscale.
  7. Yes, translucent is the word I was looking for. I usually use Testor Acryl paints. I tried holding it under some warm running water to get the residue off, but that didn't help. I think if I would have tried to use fresh tape to lift up the residue it might also lift off the acrylic paint as well. I use Tamiya tape, too, but I have noticed that it can leave a very slight residue, depending on humidty, etc. Apart from the residue problem, I did find the Scotch tape method very good in terms of leaving me with crisp lines and I didnt' have a problem with any paint creep.
  8. DO NOT use Scotch Tape or any such product. There are forums out there were people are talking about using this product (standard gift wrapping tape) that I have read. It is claimed that because it is opaque, you can take a very sharp X-Acto knife and easily trim around the frame edges for a clean, crisp paint job. So, I tried it. BIG MISTAKE. It was hard to peel off, left marks on my clear areas, didn't wash up well and cost me major deductions at the contest. The canopys were Futured first, and that didn't make a difference. The scotch tape idea is a total bust.
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