sumterIII

I actually saw Jackie Stewart race in the Tyrrell in Holland, along with Graham Hill and many others from the early to mid 70's. The cars were polished and shinny at the start but wore quickly in the race. Yes the numbers and stickers on the 003 were add-ons and not buried under clear. Back then it was all lacquer paint. Thanks Eric for the advice.

Eric I have one set of Studio27 decals for my Lotus 72D. http://www.mshobbies.com/1-12-studio27-decal-tyrrell-ford-002-003-1971/ Do you know anything about this brand? I already invested in two sets of tire decals so I guess I'll try out one set and see how it goes. I was wondering if I should apply a top coat over the tire decal? Neil That's some awesome looking wet tires, do they come in 1/12 too?

I have a couple questions for the Tamiya line of decals and using tire decals. Sometime ago I was building a 1/20 F-1 and found the decals to be less than desirable, they laid down fine but were so transparent that the Ferrari red shown through. Has there been any improvement with some of the re-pop kits like the Tyrrell 003 upgrade kit or should I buy aftermarket? The next is applying decals to the rubber tires, what is the best way to do that?

Hello Raymond, do you know anything about NorthStar Models there in the Ukraine? I was thinking of placing an order but with all that is going on not sure if I should or not.

Anyone here have a copy of the instructions for the Panda Models A-TV they are willing to share?

Same problem with paint from overseas. WEM can't ship due to air restrictions on the UK side. The blame should go to the world wide restrictions on flammable material being shipped by air not the EPA.

Thanks Mike that was a big help!

Okay here is a link for RLM 72 and 73. http://www.hobbybunker.com/products/search Note both are listed as 73 while one is green the other grey. Same thing for RLM 72. So what is the correct color grey or green?

Instruction are calling for RLM 72 and RLM 73. When I check the Model Master chart these look grey, I thought they should be green. Here are links to a color chart for RLM. http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j105/AlanBradbury/RLM.jpg

Its table top resin. Bottom four layers were tented with OD Green, the top five layers were left clear. I'll post the larger size picture on IPMS facebook so you can see it better.

1/48 Monogram Huey Hog (Vietnam Battle of Ấp Bắc Jan 2,1963) Sorry for the size can't figure out how to make it bigger for you on here.

Is the second picture the Russian battleship Tsesarevich? I hope so!

Hey Mark I used brake fluid on an old 1960s Palmer kit and it took a couple days. Lately I used it again on a new car kit from MPC and it took about an hour. I also noticed the Palmer kit chrome seemed to be thicker than the MPC. Never thought about it much until you mentioned it.

Try this free chart http://www.paint4models.com/paintchart/paintconversionchart20100101d.htm#

Well not sure if I will try it or not, have to see how difficult it will be first before making the jump.

Has anyone used this before and would you recommend it or not? http://www.eduard.com/store/Eduard/Photo-etched-parts/Photo-etched-set/AFV/1-35/Stryker-slat-bending-template-1-35.html

The book I told some of you about is out now from Squadron publications. Book number 12054 by John Adams-Graf US MRAP's in Action. Received my first copy today from John. 80 Pages of MRAPs from Iraq and Afghanistan included. Book sells for $28.95 for hardbound or $18.95 for soft on Squadron site. Some of the pictures in it were ones I had taken over the course of two deployments. Enjoy http://www.squadronsignalpublications.com/ItemDetails.asp?cat1=books&cat2=signalpub&cat3=inAction&cat4=armorInAction&cat5=armorpostww2book&item=SS12054

Many many years ago Estes had a Nike Ajax, a two stage version. I had one successful flight and decided to try the biggest motor available at that time. She went up up and away and I never saw it again...oh well...My dad was in the Army and used to take me out to see the real sites and I got to see one launched one time too. I built the original Revell kit as well. Nice job on yours I may have to see if I can find one just for the fun and nostalgia. Thanks for posting.

There are a few from Tamyia on You Tube that are great. I think as long as they are in an open(public)area already and crdit is given ie a link to them it should not be a problem. Many sites post videos this way. JMHO

I second what Dick said, some videos would be a very nice and novel way to get the information out there. Would you use some already posted or do you want just those made by IPMS members?

We had a great discussion on MWS site about the coal scuttles. You may want to look at that if you have not already. Are you going to use an Iraqi coal barge with the WEM set for the WMDs? :)

Yes the Artwox deck is very nice, looks like it will fit like a glove. Much better than the 1970's style raised lines for the deck on the ICM kit.

Chris Look on ebay for the main guns, I bought mine from a guy there a couple of times, they are very good and shipping is fast. If you want the secondary 88's you can find those at Freetime. I think I paid $8.00 for the main guns w/o shipping, which was not that much. When they come you will need to sign for them or go to the PO and pick them up. I went with the WEM set and Tom's PE. Tom's set have precut rails which I like. The WEM set is also very good and if you mess up the Tom's rail WEM gives you some spares. GMM also has a set that has some vents, along with other small parts that are not included in the Tom's or WEM sets. I bought all my paint from Freetime after looking hard at the correct colors on MWS Konig thread. If you like I will send you the paint I selected to save you some time. As a side note I bought the WEM set for the torpedo net davits, but you will not need those for your Jutland build. You may be better off skipping the WEM and go for Tom's and GMM to save some money.

Testors or MM was my backup plan, I have Chrome foil too but it's not easy going around thin curves. Dick are you saying best to use acrylic under it vs applying direct to enamel? One more question, should I clear coat the body then use Alclad or clear over everything at one time?

Was the issue with thinning? I'm concerned with Lacquer over top of enamel, as this has always been a no no before.