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sumterIII

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by sumterIII

  1. I love the new forum! My name is Arthur and I live in Sumter SC. That's Sumter without a P after the m. For some reason people like to put P in Sumter. that didn't sound right Okay so what do I build, well mostly ships now, after 25 years of wings I'm burned out. Got hooked on a couple of Roman ships and now working to build my stash. I'm working on Dragons 1/700 BB38 now but had to put it off a while because of an F-15E for a buddy. Got to finish that before Dec and his retirement from the ANG.
  2. I get the surgical ones, maybe because my wife is in the medical business. But here is a link to buys some. http://www.scissorsales.com/moretweezers.html I found they last longer than the hobby brand, in fact I have never had to replace them. The one I use most is the Fine micro tapered tweezers 3" long stock #16-30 I use a rubber band to clamp down and hold them closed, that way I can adjust the tension without breaking a part.
  3. I'm not sure about all the jets but the first blocks were a mixed bag; no two were exactly the same. Basic layout and most steam gages were but the side panel boxes were moved around a bit. My experience was with the early blocks, and they were far from a reliable airframe back then. As to your question of load out, that would be based on mission. That’s why in the Squadron books or other sources you see so many variations. Jcorley gave you some good ones to work from. Here is a link that might help too. http://www.f-111.net/F-111A/F-111A-in-SEA.htm And the cockpit from the USAF museum is on this site. http://www.nationalmuseum.af.mil/factsheets/factsheet_media.asp?fsID=321 Phantoms rule……..
  4. Does anyone know if you can order direct from Tamiya, I need sheet number 20010 Ferrari 312T3 Decal #010. The white has yellowed and the rest is brittle and cracked.
  5. Has anyone used the BUG for 1/700? That was going to be my choice but wanted to make sure it would be the right one for the scale.
  6. Which one of the small shop models work best for 1/700?
  7. Hot water worked for one of my resin kits, for other (non-resin) I sometimes use a light bulb. Example: the Ferrari F-1 kit I'm working on had a warp on the upper body. I used a brace on the underside and rubber bands to pull the front and back down, then heated the plastic with a light bulb. After the plastic was hot I placed it in the freezer to rappid cool. This helps to keep it shape.
  8. Thanks Ralph here's a test run on a test fit BB 38, I know this looks bad right now but hang on it's a work in progress.
  9. So far I have one MK 12 built, not as well as I had hoped. I used a brass rod to bend the PE but had trouble when working the center bend. It snapped in the process so I glued it. I'm working with Tom's PE Battleship set and I'm not sure if I want to chance the heat treatment. The rails are extremely delicate. I’m building the Dragon BB 38 and back dating it to the 1943 refit. I would love to post a picture but not sure how to do it. I get a message to insert a URL, but my pictures are on my hard drive so not sure what to do.
  10. Need advice on bending PE in 1/700 scale. I was looking at some of the products from The Small Shop (http://thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3) but not sure which would be best for 1/700 scale. Most of the reviews have been on larger scales, which are not applicable to what I need. I want something to help make those circular ship rail bends and can help with the MK 12 radar sets. I was thinking the Small Shop’s Standard Rolling Set might do the trick, does anyone use this on 1/700 builds or would you recommend another tool?
  11. I used Gator on my Heller bireme build as seen in this months gallery. I used it on the main sail and shields. The main sail was workable for 10-15 minuets and dry overnight. Works great for all my PE too. Here are some tips I posted at modelwarships.com Tips Keep a small bowl or bottle of warm water near by. After applying to your part place the brush in the water to keep it clean. If you leave the glue open for a few minuets just drop a little water in the bottle to keep it thinned. The Gator applicator works very good for small parts just keep it cleaned out with water between applications. For parts that tend to fall over (like long runs of ship rails) you may want to use a drop of CA on the ends to help hold it in place while the Gator sets up. Gator will take about 10 minuets or so before it will hold on it's own. Full dry about 8 hours, but you can work with the part within 30 minuets to an hour depending to temp. You can sand and paint after 30 minuets. Excess can be removed with a little water on a clean brush or Q-Tip (no sanding required then) It's great for filling seams as well, acts like Elmers white glue but with CA holding power and can be cleaned up with a damp Q-Tip before fully dry. After dry it will stay hard like CA. Hope this helps.
  12. Thanks Mike You have a nice website, loved your work bench, mine looks more like the second picture :D I placed the order with Strada this afternoon. Protech has more 1/25 scale parts from what I saw. I'll keep them in mind for the future.
  13. Thanks for the fast response! I placed the order with Strada Sports, they had the same belts as the guy on ebay for a lot less. As I get a little further along with the build I'll post some pictures. Again thanks for the help!
  14. Need a little help I need seat belts for my Ferrari F-1 1/20 scale. I found one set by ATS http://www.iaiamedia.be/tamiya/tamiya-deta...?kitnumber=1038 I would prefer using a USA company if possible. Thanks
  15. Man those pictures bring back memories, even if they are a bit fuzzy at times
  16. Nice job, always loved that bird. I like the shading, could you fill us in on your technique?
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