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Everything posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Very nice Jack. Love the weathering etc.
  2. Why not use snap-on connectors at the compressor or tank? I have two brushes that I use regularly (one for paint, one for Future) and I simply pop the connection of one loose and connect the other.
  3. Great job Tim. George Smith of our club keeps wanting more motorcycle builders. Look forward to seeing them in person.
  4. I'm not sure what information you are looking for on the company. Yes, they were a French decal manufacturer. They go back to the early days of plastic modeling. After His-Air-Dec, they were one of the first companies to offer decals that were different from those provided by the manufacturers. Initially, each decal sheet provided two sets of markings. Their first sheet covered Pierre Closterman. Subsequent sheets covered various French and German subjects. They were the first to provide a proper color of blue for the center of French roundels. They had some general sheets covering Swastikas and general French Roundels and stripes. They were probably the first company to offer sheets of German WW I Lozenge Camouflage. I think that they were in business in the late '60s and early '70s. I think that they only covered WW II and a few WW I subjects. They were somewhat thick so you may still be able to use them with the coat of Decalcote as suggested. I remember that I was using their lozenge decals on a D VII and had to use a ton of Solva-set to get them to confirm. Hope this helps.
  5. Hi Glen. Welcome. We look forward to seeing some of your models.
  6. Great job Scooter. Thanks for sharing. Pfantoms Pforever. :D
  7. ClareWentzel

    Daddy's T-55

    The model was great Jack!!! Have you seen the 2009 issue of Great Scale Modeling? They included a blurb about the Air Zoo contest and your T-55 was featured prominently. Another great photo of a great model.
  8. I would tend to agree. They seem to be good fairly easy to assemble and seem to be accurate as well. A friend of mine feels that they offer the most accurate P-40C of all manufacturers. I have picked up a couple of F/A-18Ds from Squadron as a quick build in case some new decals come up for review.
  9. How about adding a copy of the PDF to something like Hints and Tips on the web site. More people want to know.
  10. Ditto with the above. One added item is that I use the "Touch-n-flow applicator when applying Tenax to a fuselage or other joint. It makes sure that both surfaces have Tenax applied and will weld together.
  11. Bob, Scott Van Aken reviewed the 1/48 version of the Kedi decal for the Bush 102. The reference is; Modeling Madness Review Maybe Scott can be contacted and could part with the decal. I have the 1/72 version of the decal only.
  12. Come on Gil, you should know me better then that. I would never enter this in a contest but it is on my shelf.
  13. ClareWentzel


    Have you guys ever wanted to add a model to your collection but haven’t really gotten around to building it? I have always liked the FW-190D models with the red and white striped undersurfaces but it is a long way down on my build priorities. The other day at Hobby Lobby, I saw some pre-painted plastic 1/72 models. One was the 190 that I liked. I figured, “what the hell, let’s see what we can do with thisâ€. With the 40% coupon, it cost about $10 so I bought one. Here is how it looked OOB. First, I added some swastikas to the tail. Then, looking at the model, I was some fairly nice engraved panel lines so I tried to bring them out a little. I used a product called Warpig Wash but any good wash will work. I did have to re-scribe a few of the lines. The cockpit was a box with a seat added so I tried to pop the canopy off. I was pleasantly surprised that the canopy was split so that I could model it in the open condition. I added some seat belts to the seat and an instrument panel decal to the front of the box to spruce it up a little. I didn’t want to do any repainting so I didn’t try to fix some of the joints but I did break off one of the horizontal stabilizers and glued it on straight. The other thing that I wanted to change was the prop spinner. My references called for it to be red and white instead of black green. I was able to pry the prop off and paint it. Here is how it looks now. Ready to receive your slings and arrows.
  14. That sounds like a great place to get your work bench. I used two of the cheap kitchen cabinets and an eight foot piece of counter top (that I got at a trailer factory discount store) to make my bench. I have been very happy with it and a friend has copied the idea as well
  15. I have four sets of Microscale decals on the F-8 but none of them are VF-53. Do you have a picture of Cane's markings? Perhaps we can cobble together different parts to give you a usable set. BTW, I checked your blog and didn't see any mention of the F-8. Don't be nasty about the French. They were smart enough to keep flying the F-8 till the end of the century plus they had some great markings.
  16. I agree with David. I shoot Future straight and clean up with ammonia. I have had some problem with Future "pebbling" on the surface. Now, I spray Future to get an even coat and then use a very soft brush to smooth out the coat. A single pass of the brush is all you need. A second pass will mess it up. FWIW, I use a separate air brush for the Future. It is an el cheapo and I don't take the chance of screwing up my Iwata or Sotar.
  17. Thanks for passing the message along Eric. It appears that the die-cast people will be the only source of late model NASCAR vehicles.
  18. I have a corner of the basement decked out as my workshop. Check out; My Workshop In the overall view, you can see a couple of the shelves where the finished models are displayed. Hitting the back button will give you a link to my paint system and my library. The window in front of the bench opens to the back yard.
  19. Way to go Bill John. It looked to be an interesting Nats.
  20. ClareWentzel


    Larry used super glue to attach the "flat thread". I haven't tried it yet but I believe that he first fixed them at the fuselage and then feeds them through small holes that he has drilled in the wings. He stretches the thread tight and glues it in place. When everything is dry, he trims the thread off and touches up the painted wing. If a decal is located in the area of the thread hole, he waits until after he finishes the rigging before he applies that decal. It sounds like it really requires some thinking ahead, something that I usually omit. Larry's results really look spectacular though.
  21. ClareWentzel


    Our club recently had a WW I Biplane challenge and members came up with some interesting methods of adding rigging. One member, Larry Cherniak found some flat thread at the local Jo Ann Fabric store. It is made by the Sulky company and is called Sliver Metallic. He drilled holes and glued the thread in place. It had to be straightened out so it was oriented correctly. It looked fantastic. I have a spool of the thread and am working up the nerve. Here is a photo of Larry's model. Another member used guitar strings while others used stainless steel wire. More details of the challenge can be found on the club web site; IPMS Kalamazoo
  22. Looks great Dick. It is an interesting looking airplane. If you get a chance to pass by Kalamazoo sometime, we can show you the original. Clare
  23. Going back to Mike's comments on a cardboard box and a fan, check out my simple spray booth. Simple Spray Booth It works well for me although I keep looking at the Pace booths. My problem is that I don't want to cut a hole in my basement wall.
  24. Done. See IPMS Kalamazoo - articles, how-to. I even gave you more background plus an additional photo of the clamp-on lamps.
  25. Actually, your message to the reviewer corps was the impetus that caused me to make the write-up. I wanted some members' comments on the design.
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