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Everything posted by ClareWentzel

  1. Have you guys ever wanted to add a model to your collection but haven’t really gotten around to building it? I have always liked the FW-190D models with the red and white striped undersurfaces but it is a long way down on my build priorities. The other day at Hobby Lobby, I saw some pre-painted plastic 1/72 models. One was the 190 that I liked. I figured, “what the hell, let’s see what we can do with thisâ€. With the 40% coupon, it cost about $10 so I bought one. Here is how it looked OOB. First, I added some swastikas to the tail. Then, looking at the model, I was some fairly nice engraved panel lines so I tried to bring them out a little. I used a product called Warpig Wash but any good wash will work. I did have to re-scribe a few of the lines. The cockpit was a box with a seat added so I tried to pop the canopy off. I was pleasantly surprised that the canopy was split so that I could model it in the open condition. I added some seat belts to the seat and an instrument panel decal to the front of the box to spruce it up a little. I didn’t want to do any repainting so I didn’t try to fix some of the joints but I did break off one of the horizontal stabilizers and glued it on straight. The other thing that I wanted to change was the prop spinner. My references called for it to be red and white instead of black green. I was able to pry the prop off and paint it. Here is how it looks now. Ready to receive your slings and arrows.
  2. That sounds like a great place to get your work bench. I used two of the cheap kitchen cabinets and an eight foot piece of counter top (that I got at a trailer factory discount store) to make my bench. I have been very happy with it and a friend has copied the idea as well
  3. I have four sets of Microscale decals on the F-8 but none of them are VF-53. Do you have a picture of Cane's markings? Perhaps we can cobble together different parts to give you a usable set. BTW, I checked your blog and didn't see any mention of the F-8. Don't be nasty about the French. They were smart enough to keep flying the F-8 till the end of the century plus they had some great markings.
  4. I agree with David. I shoot Future straight and clean up with ammonia. I have had some problem with Future "pebbling" on the surface. Now, I spray Future to get an even coat and then use a very soft brush to smooth out the coat. A single pass of the brush is all you need. A second pass will mess it up. FWIW, I use a separate air brush for the Future. It is an el cheapo and I don't take the chance of screwing up my Iwata or Sotar.
  5. Thanks for passing the message along Eric. It appears that the die-cast people will be the only source of late model NASCAR vehicles.
  6. I have a corner of the basement decked out as my workshop. Check out; My Workshop In the overall view, you can see a couple of the shelves where the finished models are displayed. Hitting the back button will give you a link to my paint system and my library. The window in front of the bench opens to the back yard.
  7. Way to go Bill John. It looked to be an interesting Nats.
  8. Larry used super glue to attach the "flat thread". I haven't tried it yet but I believe that he first fixed them at the fuselage and then feeds them through small holes that he has drilled in the wings. He stretches the thread tight and glues it in place. When everything is dry, he trims the thread off and touches up the painted wing. If a decal is located in the area of the thread hole, he waits until after he finishes the rigging before he applies that decal. It sounds like it really requires some thinking ahead, something that I usually omit. Larry's results really look spectacular though.
  9. Our club recently had a WW I Biplane challenge and members came up with some interesting methods of adding rigging. One member, Larry Cherniak found some flat thread at the local Jo Ann Fabric store. It is made by the Sulky company and is called Sliver Metallic. He drilled holes and glued the thread in place. It had to be straightened out so it was oriented correctly. It looked fantastic. I have a spool of the thread and am working up the nerve. Here is a photo of Larry's model. Another member used guitar strings while others used stainless steel wire. More details of the challenge can be found on the club web site; IPMS Kalamazoo
  10. Looks great Dick. It is an interesting looking airplane. If you get a chance to pass by Kalamazoo sometime, we can show you the original. Clare
  11. Going back to Mike's comments on a cardboard box and a fan, check out my simple spray booth. Simple Spray Booth It works well for me although I keep looking at the Pace booths. My problem is that I don't want to cut a hole in my basement wall.
  12. Done. See IPMS Kalamazoo - articles, how-to. I even gave you more background plus an additional photo of the clamp-on lamps.
  13. Actually, your message to the reviewer corps was the impetus that caused me to make the write-up. I wanted some members' comments on the design.
  14. Thanks for the comments guys. No David, I do not use a light cube. I kind of built this set-up on the cheap. Having said that, the overhead lamp is florescent with a plastic sheet under it that does quite a bit of diffusing. Check the shadows on the last photo. They are soft edged. However, the lamp is reflected on the cowl of this very shiny model. When I get serious about a specific photo, I break out the four clamp on lamps. I use 23W spiral florescent lamps for this usage. If I have too strong a shadow, I will hang a piece of tracing paper over one or the other lamps. Yes, indeed.
  15. I had always used some sort of temporary background for taking photos of my models etc but was never satisfied with the results so I tried to make a background holder that was easy to use. I wanted to use 32†by 40†matt board as the background because of the different colors available and the strength of the product. To mount the matt board, I used a scrap piece of ½ inch plywood that I had in my basement. The scrap was 30†by 48’’ so I cut it into two 30’ by 21 ¾â€pieces. I used a piece of piano hinge to attach two parts and added braces to prevent them from opening past 90 degrees. I also added some pieces of ¾ inch wide flat molding to the edges opposite the hinge so that the matt board can be snapped into place. The 21 ¾ inch lengths allow the matt board to fit in place with a flat base and back with 4 to 5 inch radius at the base. I added a handle and a clasp so that the photo base can fold up compactly and fit next to a wall. Photo 1 is the base folded. Photo 2 shows the base open. Photo 3 shows the base with a piece of matt board in place ready to put the model for photographing. Note, I would normally have used a 32’ wide piece of plywood for the project but the scrap that I had worked just as well. As far as lighting is concerned, I have a strong light above the table I use plus the flash of the camera tends to soften shadows. If I need really good lighting, I have four clamp on lamps that I can attach to the corners of the base. Here is a model in place.
  16. Sorry about that, I thought your name was called for that one too.
  17. You're welcome. Great Bird of Prey!!! Why don't you show the good people your Maus Trap. :D It was fantastic.
  18. What scale? MicroScale made a number of them in1/72
  19. It sounds like Alclad had a batch (or more) of bad gloss black primer. As an update, my F-80 looked good after I sprayed it. HOWEVER it is now showing a number of thin cracks in the surface. The model is just for fun plus I have the decals started so I will complete it and put it on the shelf but the next time I use Alclad, I will use Future. Thanks guys.
  20. One other material to try is lighter fluid. It is not as "hot" as some of the other solvents and it will take the adhesive off. I use a q-tip VERY Carefully. Try on a scrap or a remote area of the model first.
  21. They go back a ways but Profile Publications number 92 covers the F3F series. One of their profiles covers VF-6 of the USS Enterprise. Some of the photos show Enterprise birds also.
  22. Gil, it looks like all of the clear decal areas were invisible. I think that you said that the tail markings has broad clear areas. They are all invisible. Great job as usual. The seat and the seat belt details really make it jump out.
  23. Very nice Gil. Love the markings. The SNJ on the fuselage seems to have worked great. The tail looks great. Is there a slight change of color under the HL on the left side of the fuselage? No complaint, just not sure what I see. Clare
  24. Right. I can't believe that I watched "Mystery Science Theater 3000 - The Movie" last night on HBO.
  25. I know how you feel. I have lost some parts under my fingernails.
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