ClareWentzel

Impressive Duke. For us mere mortals, please show us some photos of your Hobby Room. I am curious to see how you can have 1100+ finished models!! I have enough problems storing my unbuilt kits. Good decision to stick with one scale. :D

Nice F.1 Jack. I also have a review of the 1/72 Roden kit on the list. I like the light color of your better. Good job. After hearing the comments above and looking at photos again, I probably made mine darker then it should have been. Now, about the cowl color. I used the same color as used for the streaking. Seems more logical for the assembly plant. Ain't modeling fun!!!

FWIW, I tend to agree with the colors that Tom Mason mentioned. I read somewhere that the dark color (Olive Green) was applied with brooms. I painted my model overall light blue and then using a large, stiff brush, I applied the olive green in directions noted from photos. I too also believe that Voss' cowl was olive green. Yellow would be interesting but I have to stick with olive green. I also recommend the Windsock books.

When we get those little plastic bottles of Super Glue, we have to cut the tip of the spout off to use the glue. I learned last night that I should remove the cap from the bottle before removing the tip. I didn't and realized that the bottle had built up some pressure inside. Maybe a low pressure area was passing, I don't know but when I cut the tip off, I had super glue spraying over my work bench. Fortunately, it was aiming away from me and the model that I was working on but I now have a sanding stick that is very smooth plus I had to do a lot of quick mopping up. Man, that stuff sure makes the eyes burn also. Just a tip based on my dumb move. I hope to save others from maybe having a worse result. Clare

One other thing to consider. Try masking different frames of the canopy at different steps. Don't mask the whole thing at once. For those pesky multi-frame canopies, mask all of the lateral frames and paint the canopy. When it is dry, remove the tape and then mask the longitudinal frames. Paint them and remove the masking. Obviously, you have a double paint thickness at the intersections but it really is not visible. I always first paint the interior color and then the exterior color so it is thicker at the intersections but still not a problem. Liquid masking mediums are good for some uses but if you can paint a straight line with the masking medium, you should be able to hand paint the frames. :D I have never been that good.

I agree with press 'n seal. I have laid it over drawings and cut out the camo schemes and just laid the material on the model. Good seat for the edges etc. Also, yes it is a great way to protect a painted and decaled model when painting a final small area. I use MM enamels and lacquer thinner. No problems. I have not tried to use it as a mask for canopies, just for big areas. Clare

Great pics Jim. It seems like people around the world love the Harvard/Texan. When I lived in Brasil, I belonged to a club in Sao Paulo. Brasilians usually go by a single name and one of the members was called "tee-meia" - T 6 in Portuguese. I had the pleasure of seeing the Brasilian Aerobatic team, Esquadrilla da Fumaca, flying their T-6s at a couple of shows. Fantastic!!!

Glad I could help Charles. I look forward to seeing the finished model. I didn't notice the scale that you mentioned with your initial post. As you said, we needed a good -15 in 1/72 scale. I will have to look for some. Lots of great marking schemes.

Hi Charles, After checking out the MiG at the Air Zoo, I can't find any transparent panels on the underside of the rear fuselage. Here are a couple of photos to give you an indication of where I was looking and what I saw on this particular airplane. Here you can see the rear side of the airplane at the dive brake area. You can see the edges of two circular panels on the bottom of the fuselage. These are circular and are solid and painted. Here is a better view of the panels. Man!! The MiG-15 is small. The clearance under the rear fuselage is 4 to 6 inches. If this is the area that you were interested in, I hope that I have answered your question. If I misunderstood the area that you were interested in, let me know. I have some more photos and I could not find any clear panels on the underside of the airplane. Hope this helps.

Greg, a really great P-51 plus the staff car. Well done!!! It looks like it should be setting on the ramp.

The Air Zoo in Kalamazoo has a MiG-15 in their collection. I will try to get over to the Zoo over the weekend to see if I can see anything.

Where do you get Gater Glue? What is it normally used for?

Great work Maffe, Great paint jobs. Nice panel lines and very subtle exhaust marks etc. Welcome.

Beautiful Jeff. Bring it along if you get over here to Kalamazoo next October. A great job on the NMF of the Tony. Love it!!! What did you use to bring out the subtle panel line effect? Maybe Warpigs Washes? :D

Very nice Jack. Love the weathering etc.

Why not use snap-on connectors at the compressor or tank? I have two brushes that I use regularly (one for paint, one for Future) and I simply pop the connection of one loose and connect the other.

Great job Tim. George Smith of our club keeps wanting more motorcycle builders. Look forward to seeing them in person.

I'm not sure what information you are looking for on the company. Yes, they were a French decal manufacturer. They go back to the early days of plastic modeling. After His-Air-Dec, they were one of the first companies to offer decals that were different from those provided by the manufacturers. Initially, each decal sheet provided two sets of markings. Their first sheet covered Pierre Closterman. Subsequent sheets covered various French and German subjects. They were the first to provide a proper color of blue for the center of French roundels. They had some general sheets covering Swastikas and general French Roundels and stripes. They were probably the first company to offer sheets of German WW I Lozenge Camouflage. I think that they were in business in the late '60s and early '70s. I think that they only covered WW II and a few WW I subjects. They were somewhat thick so you may still be able to use them with the coat of Decalcote as suggested. I remember that I was using their lozenge decals on a D VII and had to use a ton of Solva-set to get them to confirm. Hope this helps.

Hi Glen. Welcome. We look forward to seeing some of your models.

Great job Scooter. Thanks for sharing. Pfantoms Pforever. :D

I would tend to agree. They seem to be good fairly easy to assemble and seem to be accurate as well. A friend of mine feels that they offer the most accurate P-40C of all manufacturers. I have picked up a couple of F/A-18Ds from Squadron as a quick build in case some new decals come up for review.

How about adding a copy of the PDF to something like Hints and Tips on the web site. More people want to know.

Ditto with the above. One added item is that I use the "Touch-n-flow applicator when applying Tenax to a fuselage or other joint. It makes sure that both surfaces have Tenax applied and will weld together.

Bob, Scott Van Aken reviewed the 1/48 version of the Kedi decal for the Bush 102. The reference is; Modeling Madness Review Maybe Scott can be contacted and could part with the decal. I have the 1/72 version of the decal only.

Come on Gil, you should know me better then that. I would never enter this in a contest but it is on my shelf.