Bradley25mm

Thank you Dave.

Thank you Gil for the complement. The windows can be posed open or closed. I added all the plumbing on the rotor head. Used a reference photo as a guide.

Absolutely stunning work Gil. Fantastic weathering.

https://www.flickr.com/gp/159342774@N07/igm586. Helicopters dominate my model collection. I modified the cockpit, .50 cal, and the rotor head. I decided to tone down the black decals that represent the nonslip surface. I misted them with light ghost gray. I bought this at a local model contest for a really good price. I opted to fold the rotors to save space. Overall, the construction went well. No issues. Of the helicopters in my collection, this is, by far, my favorite.

Awesome build. Weathered just enough to look used. Congrats!

👍👍👍👍👍👍

The paint scheme is awesome. Very nice work.

Weathering is awesome. Not over done like some. Nice build.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskMiaLsj This was a really fun build. Added detail in the cockpit, and crew compartment. Also added detail to the main rotor head, and tail rotor. This model currently resides at the maintenance facility for the 160th Special Operations Aviation Regiment at Ft. Campbell Kentucky (Thanks to a very good friend and modeler).

https://flic.kr/s/aHskMiakey. This is the project that is currently on my build table. She's a doozy to. I've made quite a few corrections. Corrections made so far: Main rotor head, Tie downs on the tip of each rotor blade, 90 degree gearbox oil filler cap, new drive shaft for tail rotor, corrected tail stinger, corrected anti collision light, corrected FM antenna mount, Added tube framing on 2.75" rocket holder, added detail to cockpit hood, corrected both collectives (added switches), Added attachment points to the landing skids Added drive shaft to main transmission for tail rotor, Added brass screen to the engine cowling, added walls inside engine cowling. I would love for Kitty Hawk to come out with a 1/32nd scale kit of this helicopter.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskD2BGxc. This is one of the bases that I made a about two years ago. The original base that the model was on, was one of the first that I had built. I was never really happy with it. I’m still working on different techniques to improve the bases. The brass plates came from my local trophy shop. I can take any picture off of the Internet, and they can’t print it,in color , on a plate of my choosing. It’s called the Awards Center here in Louisville Ky. From one 4’ sheet of 3/4” plywood, I can make several bases.

Thanks for the welcome gentlemen.

Thanks for the idea Buck. I’ll have to try that the next time I build a base.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskGWzTAC. I started building these a few years ago. All of the supplies can be picked up at any home-improvement store. I can make them any size I need. I purchased the tie downs from Tom’s Model-works. I use Testors Model Master enamels, and Tamiya acrylics to paint them. I normally use Hardwood Floor Sanding paper. I’ve just recently started using regular sand paper from Lowes. The scale your displaying, will determining what grit of sandpaper you will use . If I want a tarmac display for a 1/144th scale jet, I use 220 grit. If I want a carrier deck for a 1/32nd scale jet, I use 80 grit. Once I’ve determined the size I need, I cut 3/4” plywood to that size. (Lowe’s sells 4’ sheets). After cutting the plywood, I sand the top surface with an orbital sander. This will help the sandpaper stick to the plywood better, once you’ve applied contact adhesive. Set the base aside. For Tarmac bases, it’s easy. Just cut your pieces of sandpaper to fit the base. I use a utility knife with heavy duty blades to cut the sandpaper. When you cut the sandpaper, you need to cut it on the paper side. It’s much easier to cut, and your blades will last much longer. When you have your pieces cut, vacuum the top of the base that the sandpaper will be glued to. This will help adhesion. Spray both the top of the base, and the back of the sandpaper with contact adhesive. I usually let mine sit for about 5 to 10 minutes to tack up. When the times up just take the sandpaper and press it down on the base firmally. Once completed, sit the base aside so that it can dry. Once dry, I airbrush the colors that I want. You can use blue painters tape to put lines on. Once the painting is done, I put decorative trim on the edge of the plywood to give a finished look. I buy oak shoe stripped from Lowes to do this . The Aircraft carrier basis are basically the same construction. The only difference is that you have to establish a grid system on the back of the sandpaper for the tie-downs. I use an architectural steel ruler to establish my grids on the back of the sandpaper. Where the two lines meet, is where a hole needs to be punched in the sandpaper. I use a drive pin punch set, a heavy hammer, and on old nylon cutting board to punch a hole in the sand paper. Once the holes have been punched in the sandpaper, attach it to the plywood just as you would for a tarmac base. Once the sandpaper has been attached and it’s completely dry, I take a center punch to make an indention in the middle of each circle that I punched out This gives the hole some depth. The plywood is very soft. Then you take the tiedowns from Tom’s model works and glue them on top of each punched hole. I used styrene sheeting to make the catapult for my F/A -18D Hornet. Any additional questions, feel free to ask.

Very nice Mark. I’ve built ONE Roden kit. OV-1B Mohawk. Might be my last. Awesome builds Joe. Love the paint scheme.

Very nice 👍.

The Hello!. My name is Chris Bowling. I’ve been building off and on for the past 10 years or so. My favorite subject to model is anything having to do with aviation, especially helicopters. I have done some NASCAR models for relatives and friends. I rarely do any armor, however it does sometimes spark my interest. I’m pretty much old-school when it comes to paints , and finishes. I mostly use enamel’s. The past three years or so I’ve started playing with acrylics. My favorite mediums to use when finishing models are artist oils thinned with mineral spirits for pin washes, in crushed pastel chaulks to replicate lube and oil stains. I’m very excited to be a part of this group. I look forward to seeing all the fantastic marvelous on the site. I currently belong to the Military Modelers Club of Louisville.