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Everything posted by Bradley25mm

  1. Wow!!. She looks gorgeous Gil. Stunning work. Chris
  2. IMG_5996.mov Thanks Eric for your help posting this video. Chris
  3. Chris, I had a total of four lines to run down the strut. They were so thin, I was able to tuck them between the strut itself, and the gear door. I painted what you could see black. I drilled a small hole on the outer hub, where you could not see it once the gear door was installed. After that, I drilled a hole in the very bottom of the tire. I hope this helps. chris
  4. Richard, Looking forward to seeing your work. Chris
  5. Richard, I’m not sure what the exact dimensions are for the revetment wall. I use the below picture as a guide. If you have any questions at any time, send me a message an I’ll do my best to answer your questions. And yes, they did use bottle jacks positioned under a jack point on each strut. hope this helps Chris
  6. Stuart, All very nice builds. My favorite is the F-16. I like how you have it posed. Chris
  7. Finally complete! This is probably one of the longest builds I’ve had. I tried my hand at simulating chipped paint (silver paint on a piece of makeup sponge). Really glad to have this one behind me. Chris
  8. All that left to do now, is mount everything on the base, and get the plaque made from the trophy shop . I hit the first coat of polyurethane with steel wool. Gives you a nice and smooth surface to apply the next coat of polyurethane. The base has the last coat, and will cure overnight. Are used several shades of gray and tan to simulate concrete. I would appreciate any feedback on how I could improve it I used Tamiya black accent to simulate oil and grease spots on the concrete. Chris
  9. I’m in agreement with you David. One of the reasons I put mine on a base is better protect it. I generally build them slightly larger the the footprint of the model. Chris
  10. The plane is finished. I started on the base Saturday. Because I had to build a box to hide everything, and it’s pretty big, I used blonde plywood. It’s lighter than most. I used Oak veneer plywood for the sides and front. I used oak shoe mold, and solid strips of oak to add detail. All of it was stained with dark walnut, and currently has one coat of high gloss polyurethane. I’ve covered over the oak with blue painters tape to keep all the paint off of it. i used 120 grit sandpaper to simulate concrete. I used Evergreen plastic to build a revetment wall. Because I needed to hide the Bose speaker, I had to build the wall just a little bit thicker to cover it. I want to easily be able to remove the Bose speaker as simply lifting up the wall. I also didn’t want to make the base any higher. This seem to work out just fineThe aircraft tug is from Aerobonus. Chris
  11. I went to the 2019 Nats in Chattanooga. Took my Trumpeter 1/32nd scale SU-27. The base that it sit on measures 24x25. When I got to the table, a judge said that the base was to big. He asked me if I had seen the memo stating this. I said no. He asked me if I could remove the plane from the base, and store the base under the table. I told him that the plane was glued to the base with superglue. To an extent, I can understand that big bases do take up display space, but when a modeler builds a base, like mine, a simple taxiway, removing the base takes away from the overall build. To make matters worse, after judging was complete, I noticed my base was turned 90 degrees from the way I originally had put it on the table. Before I even moved it, I noticed the the front landing gear was crooked. Someone had completely broken the strut out of the gear well. No note was left to explain what it happened. I guess I needed to put a “Model glued to base” sign. It was odd that I had told the judge in the aircraft section that the model was glued to the base, yet someone still tried to take it off anyways. Chris
  12. Dave, it’s a really nice build. I know you think the blue may be too dark, and it might be,but it turned out fantastic. Chris
  13. Well, I can see a light at the end of the tunnel. Decals on, and sealed. I did a pin wash on all the panel lines, and rivets. I used Tamiya accent wash. After it dried, I took a clean cotton cloth, dampened with mineral spirits, and wiped the excess wash off in the direction of the airflow. I’m gonna let everything dry really good tonight, then start with some small chipping of the panels, and oil and hydraulic streaks. I picked up an Air Force aircraft tractor from Aero bonus. After it complete, then I will start on the base. chris
  14. I just started putting on the decals today. The decals that came with the kit are from TwoBobs. They went on without any issues. My first time using them. Amazing! Just to make sure they were nice and flat, I used Walters Solvaset. Took me a while to airbrush this beast. I used Tamiya paints, thinned with Mr. Color Leveling thinner. A friend of mine in our club recommended it to me. So glad I took his advice. To produce the faded section of each panel, I added a few drops of white. Tomorrow, I finish the decals, and start the weathering process. I checked all the lights once again to make sure everything was still operational. If you have this kit, I highly suggest you build some sort of gig to hold it. I got the idea from a YouTuber by name of Primedmodelworks. He Used insulating foam board to make his. This jig has made every aspect of the build so much better. When I’m done with mine, I’m mailing it to a buddy who has the exact same kit. Chris
  15. Man, she turned out great. Two areas that REALLY stand out, are the wheel wells, and the cockpit. Glad you posed it on glass to see all that detailed work. Chris
  16. Finally got the fuselage closed up. I tested all the lights SEVERAL times, prior to glueing the halves together. I have two controllers for the lights. The small one lights the anti-collision lights, One on top of the fuselage, and one on the bottom. These are the only two that flash. The larger controller controls the nose gear landing lights, the cockpit dials , the navigation lights, and the engine lights. Chris
  17. I really like the wash that you used. Chris
  18. Gorgeous work my friend. Keep those pictures coming!!! Chris
  19. Bigger, is better. That turned out great Duke. chris
  20. Now there’s something you don’t see everyday. Awesome . Chris
  21. Truly, my favorite helicopter. Back in the 80’s, Monogram had the Rambo chopper, that was pretty cool. The only 1/32nd scale, to my knowledge ,was the Revell kit with a horrible nose, and main rotor mast. The Dragon 1/35th scale is ok, but need a lot of work to fix all the discrepancies. The rotor head, cockpit hood, the panel on the front section of the tail boom, and the bolt heads, I mean rivets, on the entire fuselage. Kitty Hawk put out some fantastic models, especially their 1/48th scale UH-1H. The best rendition I’ve seen thus far. A guy can wish, can’t he! Chris
  22. Last time I built a F-105G, I was in the 7th/8th grade. No paint, or decal, just good old Testors tube glue. Had a blast. Decided to add lights and sound. Went on YouTube, and found “F-105D startup”. I’m using a Bose Soundlink for a speaker. Going to build a jet blast wall to put it in, The lighting is the same kind I used to light up the inside of the Sherman. Hobby Lobby carries these mini LED light sets. They have a portion of a row devoted to different sets of these. Easy to use, and really cheap.
  23. Gil, Amazing build. My favorite bomber. Great detail all around. The engines look nice and busy. 😍😍. She’s gonna be a big one. chris
  24. All I’m in a bit of a pickle. I have all the parts for this kit, but not the color sheets showing the paint scheme, or most importantly, decal placement. Would someone be willing to take pictures of these sheets and send them to my email? I found a PDF file on Scale meets with the full instruction sheet for this kit, and the color sheets that I need. The problem is when I try to blow them up to make them bigger, the decals are practically illegible. Thanks for any help that someone might be able to provide. chris
  25. Thanks Gil. The overall construction was straight forward. The fit of all the parts was amazing. Especially the canopy. A couple of areas I improved on: The cockpit. I got the photo sets from Eduard. Instrument panels, and seat belts. I had to rebuild the collective handle supplied with the kit for the back seat. It was void of detail. In photos I referenced, it looks exactly like a UH-1 collective. I used Athletic tape to simulate fabric on the seat cushions. (The same type I used on the 1/32nd scale H.A.S Lynx). The Transmission: The Eduard set for the cockpit also included parts to dress up the transmission. I added solder for lines, and scrap parts to add more detail. The main rotor: I love the way that ICM designed the construction. The blade grips are not molded on the rotor blades. This makes painting ALOT easier. One thing that sticks out on the rotor blades are the blade tie down points on the end of each blade. A really nice touch, for sure. Once built, you need to be careful handling it. The rotor mast is to scale, but quite flimsy. If I had to do it over, I would have either replaced it with brass rod, or slid brass rod over the existing shaft. The tail rotor: I cut off the shaft that that was molded on. I added a longer, and smaller shaft. The tail rotor itself is the most accurate representation of the real thing that I’ve seen in a model kit. From the blade grips, to the control linkages. Kudos to their design team. The barrier retaining walls were made from Evergreen plastic sheet, and u beams. The Marston matting is from Tom’s Model works. I had to scratch build a blade tie down hook system. The real one has a bean bag on one end of a large red heavy duty strap. You toss the bean bag over the main rotor to help you pull it down to put the hook in the blade tie down point. You then wrap this strap around the tail boom to keep the main rotor from flapping all over the place. The extra rocket, and mini gun pods: I scratch built the yellow racks they sit in. Overall, a really fun build. I can’t wait until ICM starts to release their other helos. (1/35th scale CH-54😁😁).
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