TheKeeper

Thanks Gary! Now that I look, I don't see the PM option either, maybe hidden in the 'personal' page. Anyway, I'm at: Doc Scarp Box 13196 Akron OH 44334 Assuming it's the large folded version, if you can do the larger 17" page that would be great (one side). Whatever you come up with will be appreciated! Thanks again, Doc

So I've got the AMT 6062 El Camino (english translation "The Camino") and it's missing the instructions. Can anyone make a copy of theirs? '96 edition although I imagine other editions with the camper should work. Please PM with price etc. Thanks! Keeper

If you've already got a major compressor I would have run an air line to your modeling bench. Well, you've got the compressor now so maybe next time... The Keeper

Yeah, that's it! Thanks so much! Awesome display, sorry I missed it. Maybe I better get back to building... The Keeper

I attended the Shenango Valley Contest yesterday. Fun show, here's some pctures: http://s1135.photobucket.com/user/Crapologist500/library/SVASCOM%202016

I'm looking for some shots of Monster Mash, the collection of Aurora monster figures. Did it get missed?

I couldn't find any pics either although the art and decals all seem to be in agreement on a rather standard finish with yellow arched letters. Rocky's site has a lot of historical info: http://hellswenchoperationtidalwave.blogspot.de/#! And this British site confirms the lack of photo: http://www.americanairmuseum.com/aircraft/7501 Wish I had more for ya but this may be one of those 'oral history only' incidences. hth

OK, found a picture: http://www.ipms-phoenix.org/contest/2004/models/850_b_3rd.jpg Great display, they covered the bue, yellow PH, Purple Rufe and others. Sadly, no further discussion on the 'net. Some local modelers are looking to revive the purple floatplane scheme but WHERE did this originate? TIA Keeper

Anybody remember the Japanese Blue Aircraft display? I seem to remember it was hosted by J-Aircraft.com at the Nationals in AZ 2004. Can't seem to find one picture TIA

Hakenkruetz included in this artwork: http://www.markstyling.com/F6F_3_5_JPEGs/F6F.cu,13.jpg Haven't run into any decals in 1/72 yet. hth

When you get cobwebs like that (typical in a lacquer application) it's usually from not using enough thinner. Hence your 'pebbly' finish. Go at least 50/50 and move in a little closer. Make sure it's wet. hth

Minor detail; Otaki came out with this line of 1/48 fighters in (like you said) 1972, went out of biz around eighty-nine when Arii bought the company assets. Most modelers viewed these kits as a blessing even though some of the detail was fiction. As you've demonstrated, with skill and some upgrades they turn out quite nice. They make great palettes for the leftover decals from newer releases. Really love your paint job and detail work! Cheers K

Ah, there's no ammonia in Microsol; it's some obscure alchohol which I can't remember the name of at the moment but it probably would react with Future. A follow up top coat with Future usually eradicates the stain. Here's the MSDS for Microsol: http://www.decalconnection.com/msds_microsol.pdf No ammonia Microset is merely acetic acid. Most other manufacturers utilize these formulae. If you're having trouble with decals shattering when they hit the water then they have been exposed to humidity and heat and the ink is fractured. You can coat it with Microscale Decal Film which usually saves most. HTH

Nicely done Joe! Incredible the amount of use this particular A/C experienced. I bought this kit last year and hope to get to it soon but I think I'm going to find a scheme using lozenge decals. Were there any points to watch out for during assembly? Tanks,

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/edur0006.htm Okay, that's 1/48 and I don't see any German kill marks on '5' so perhaps he never included them. hth

That's highly reminiscient of the Monogram desert option I built back in the day; the Farbton Polizei would approve! Got to try the oleo treatment on my next build...

Yeah, the Revell P-38 is a good kit, even includes an engine or two. I probably have an extra one here at the Crapatorium along with the later photo recon edition. The Dragon kit is a later different molding but it's a nightfighter. Comes in other varieties as well. Might have a MONOgram F7F as well. Check this site: http://www.scalemates.com/search-solr.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=grumman+f7f&qs=Search I've plugged you in with the F7F, you can punch in any aircraft and see the manufacturers, scales, editions, etc. Great site! hth!

Isopropyl alchohol is the exact thinner Tamiya used for their acrylic line and should remove the paint if it's not fully cured. But like Pete said, if it's the synthetic laquer you're going have to turn it up a notch. You might be able to dispose of brake fluid at a local gas station. You might also want to try the purple degreaser available at auto supply stores. A toothbrush helps with the nooks n crannies. hth

Great to hear from you Paul. I started the '28 Lincoln when I was kid but got a bunch of runs in the yellow and never finished it. I've collected a few editions over the years, including some restorable '32 Chevys, sadly the doors are missing from the truck. You obviously did proper research on the color schemes, I'll bet the beltlines on the Lincolns were arduous. I've avoided the MPC re-issues which are devoid of the Gangbuster parts and got the AMT editions circa '86 along with some originals. Now that I've seen your awesome display I'm ready to start. Any suggestions? Fine job, hope to see them again!

Yup! Tamiya has released several French tanks in 1/35, how tough could it be to pantograph/CAD 1/48 molds? And the Japs, Italians, etc.

Sure would like to see the Martin Baltimore re-issued as there were not enough to go around.

As far as the SB-2 goes, you have the FROG/Novo/Eastern mold which is a little long in the tooth. Special Hobby made both engine versions; here's one: http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/44275.html You'll probably need to make some adjustments for the particular version you want. HTH

I usually clean with Plastic Prep or alchohol (not a good idea if you've got an acrylic base coat.) The trick is to use coffee filters! They're lint free and don't shed so they're an excellent media for applying fluids. Any type of anti static device is a good investment. hth

I never met Jerry but I sure appreciate what he did for the hobby. I made freqent trips to the Squander Shop in Cleveland for the short time it was open. Made a journey to Detroit in the late seventies with a couple of friends; we didn't want to leave! And the monthly sales flyers are the reason I have no room in attic or basement. RIP

Presbyopia hit me hard a few decades ago and I haven't been able to finish many models since. I started out using a jewelers loupe which worked for a while and now I've got magnifying Visors on every floor. At build sessions they called me "Doc Ock" initially but I've popularized the technique and now everyone's got one. My dentist has a wearable set of BinoMicroscopes that I wish I had but they're not cheap so stick with what you got there and sell it to me when you're done! Cheers,