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1/48 Tamiya Fairey Swordfish - almost done, need advice


StuartMont

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Good morning everyone!  My first foray into anything smaller than 1:32 and an airbrush.

I've attached a few photos of my almost completed Swordfish.  I decided to incorporate Tamiya's photo-etched bracing set and for someone with very limited experience I quickly found out that it is not easy, it fought me tooth and nail.  The pieces were incredibly fragile and one of the bracing wires from the upper to lower wing was "destroyed".  As you can see, on the right wing assembly all is in place, albeit not perfectly taut.  The wires went into the holes OK but once you started to manipulate them up or down to the next wing they kinked or, in one case, broke as I tried to insert the other end into its hole. The left wing assembly is where the last (literally) piece broke and it became unusable as I tried to deal with it.  What I was hoping is that I might get some suggestions on how I fix the left bracing.  I don't want to buy another bracing set for just the one piece.

As noted this is also my first foray into using an airbrush.  I hand painted the fuselage (mistake) but used the airbrush for the upper and lower wings.  Once again, one quickly learns that these things take lots of practice.  No where near those perfectly smooth finishes I see here all the time.  I used a light table and the provided 1:1 scale drawing to create masks for the camouflage and that worked out OK, a little time consuming.  Unfortunately I failed to see a small footnote about the colors which should have been reversed for my scheme.  Since my models are no where near worthy of display anywhere but in my house this makes no difference to anyone but me.

Here's what I learn as I continue to build these models.  Nothing you guys do that makes your models look amazing is easy.  My appreciation of the skills put on display here is increased manyfold every time I try to mimic it.

My first goal is to post some photos and actually ask you to zoom in rather than hope that you don't 😀

Stuart

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Edited by StuartMont
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You could use stretched sprue. Cheap and easy to work with. This is my 1/72 scale old Airfix Swordfish rigged with stretched sprue so you can see that it works. 

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Heck, reading your description I was expecting a hot mess to look at, but not so! The String Bag looks much nicer than your own critical eye is letting you see. But then we're all our own worst critic, right?

I don't know where to source single pieces of flat wire that you could cut to length to replace the broken ones. However, if you really feel the need to finish it out (and it's not noticeable at a glance to most) then I suggest floral wire. Go to the nearest florist and ask for some strands of the wire they use for arrangements. They should have a couple of thicknesses to choose from and they may or may not charge you, depending on how many you want. These are usually stiff enough to work, strong enough they won't break, but will kink if you're not careful. The only problem then is that it'll be round and not flat like the rest of the wires and will need painting to match.

As for airbrushing.... it's the same routine needed to get to Carnegie Hall.... practice, practice, practice! It sounds like your main problem at the moment is too thick paint, perhaps in use and on the surfaces. Many paints need thinning to use, and usually more than anticipated. The easiest description of properly thinned paint for airbrushing is "2% milk".... it runs almost as easily as water and leaves a tainted tail of translucent color when streaked down the inside of the jar or cup. You also need to get used to applying it in thin layers instead of trying to cover completely in one pass. This is especially true when using masks like on the Swordfish, as heavy paint application will build up on the mask edges leaving ridges that you can see.

Congrats on your Swordfish and thanks for sharing, even if there's parts you're not satisfied with. Hope this helps!

 

Gil :cool:

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Another possibility is what is known as beading wire. It's sold in craft stores and is used to make bracelets, necklaces and the like. It comes in many thicknesses and made from many materials ranging from elastic threat to aluminum. The aluminum might be "flattenable". The stuff is cheap, has a myriad of other uses and one spool/loop will last a long time. 

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Thanks to all for the posts. I tried to stretch sprue once and it did not go well ☹️. Floral wire is something I do have in the drawer but it’s too thick so I can look for thinner. I’ll also look into beading wire. I feel like I have to finish it somehow, leaving that last piece off hits me the wrong way. 

Gil, I have to ask what a “String Bag” is 😳 and thanks for your kind words.  I am very critical of my models but they mostly deserve it 😀☹️

I’ll put some photos up of the finished model.

I appreciate y’all taking time to help.

Stuart

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20 hours ago, ghodges said:

It sounds like your main problem at the moment is too thick paint, perhaps in use and on the surfaces.

Thanks for your notes about airbrushing Gil.  Printed and filed with all the other wonderful advice I've received on these forums.  These are the paints I used for the wing upper and lower surfaces and you are correct, I did not thin them, naively assuming they were ready to go with an airbrush.  Lesson learned.  I've had so much trouble keeping the airbrushes clean and spraying consistently.  My opinion has been that the brushes that came with my starter set are just not very good ones.  I've seen a single airbrush online that cost more than the total cost of the compressor and three types of airbrushes that came with my set.  Perhaps, after reading your notes, the too thick paint is causing the problems.

A while back I posted a question about masking canopies.  After providing great advice the respondent also very kindly warned against bringing up topics that were long ago addressed and perhaps created some controversy when they were fresh.  Therefore I won't ask for recommendations 😀😀 but if someone wants to simply post or send me a direct message with their favorite brand/type of airbrush to use it would be very helpful in looking into my next step in improving my models.

Stuart

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As to stretching sprue, here's a quick primmer. All sprue is not equal. Some company's stretch easily and well (Tamiya) and others not so much (Matchbox). Try sprues from various manufacturers to find one that works well for you. Get a cheap votive style candle, the short squat ones. It will burn with a nice steady flame and not fall over. Get a length of the sprue you are using and cut it into about 3 inch lengths. Holding it from both ends, hold it just over, not in, the flame and keep turning it. You will see it get shiny and feel that it is loosening. When you can feel it being "bendable", which will take some practice, take it out of the heat and pull the two ends apart from each other. Go slow for thicker sprue, faster for thinner. When you feel the sprue start to resist stop and let one end hang in the air. This will keep the sprue straight as it cools. I tape one end to a door and let it sit for a few minutes. Then I cut it as I need it. If the sprue is not soft enough it will just snap. No problem, sprue is cheap, so start again. It does take practice and there is a 'feel' for when the sprue is ready to stretch, but if you can master this, you can make rod stock in almost any thickness you want. 

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"Stringbag" was the nickname for the Swordfish (and not a reference to your model); I'm guessing due to it being one of the last planes with fabric covering the "stringer" fuselage structure in a war where most every other plane had all metal fuselages.

 

Gil :cool:

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Another derivation I have read about the name "Stringbag" is that with all the rigging it had they said it resembled the knitted/crocheted (out of strings assumedly) bags women took with them to the market to carry all their purchases and since the Swordfish could carry all sorts of ordinance such as torpedoes, bombs, flares, depth charges, etc, the name "stringbag" seemed fitting. 

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28 minutes ago, ghodges said:

(and not a reference to your model)

Oh, I never took umbrage, I figured it was an historical reference and thanks very much for explaining.  It actually helps me better appreciate the time I took to mask the interior and replicate the stringer fuselage.  It was hard to be consistent but what you can see in the assembled model looks cool I think.  I actually did some research on this one and fell in love with the airplane.  I studied some blueprints and read some articles but if I came across the reference it slipped off into the ether 😀. I will say that building these planes really helps reinforce the courage of folks that flew them in battle.  I got the impression they were too easy to shoot down.

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26 minutes ago, Ron Bell said:

and since the Swordfish could carry all sorts of ordinance such as torpedoes, bombs, flares, depth charges, etc, the name "stringbag" seemed fitting. 

Very cool, thanks.  I really liked the ordinance in this model but found it interesting that the instructions did not include assembly of the torpedo included with the kit.  I realize you don't need any to assemble the torpedo but the instruction included assembling and attaching the rack but actually removing the pins that would, I presume, have been inserted into the torpedo when attaching it.

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I think Tamiya released that kit in a couple of versions. One was with the torpedo and another with bombs/flares, etc. You may have gotten the one that did not use the torp. 

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1 hour ago, Ron Bell said:

I think Tamiya released that kit in a couple of versions. One was with the torpedo and another with bombs/flares, etc. You may have gotten the one that did not use the torp. 

Tamiya did at least two releases, one with fixed wheel landing gear, plus bombs, flares, and a torpedo weapons options... I have that kit in my stash.... and a floatplane version, and I don't know what sort of ordnance it has off the top of my head. I'll bet that Scalemates has the answer...

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On 8/20/2023 at 11:48 AM, Ron Bell said:

As to stretching sprue, here's a quick primmer.

Ron,

Thanks very much for the primmer. You’ve helped with this before and when I tried it, the result was a real mess. I will keep trying though. I have a folder dedicated to stuff l haven’t been able to do yet.

As always, help and advice is very much appreciated.

Stuart

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