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StuartMont

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by StuartMont

  1. Thanks so much for the response.
  2. I was able to find some videos of building this model. Unfortunately I have not found any including posts, etc. that discuss the need to grind and smooth the areas with protrusions. There was a video of a person unpacking the 1/200 USS Missouri and the hull looked perfectly smooth, unlike this one. Is the need to deal with these areas expected and therefore not discussed? Thanks. Stuart
  3. Now that sounds like a great plan. Have a Thunderbird F-4E and a Blue Angel F-4J. That would be really cool, the two sitting side-by-side, thanks! And, this way I can delay the F-4J purchase until my wife gets over my latest spending spree. Stuart
  4. I do have the Tamiya 1/32 F-4E and was originally planning to build it per the kit. I love that camouflage look. I also did not know that the Navy never flew it. I had a much older cousin that flew for the Navy, he’s probably turning over in his grave right now. Thanks for the responses guys, I’ll start looking for the F-4J. Were you serious about the trade thing? The F-4E is unopened. Stuart
  5. My boys gave me a Blue Angels poster for my birthday and I noticed the Phantom. I purchased a Phantom kit a while back so I changed my mind about how I was going to finish it. I was going to paint this in a Vietnam era scheme but now I want to finish with a Blue Angels scheme so I impulsively bought a decal set at the correct scale. However, it turns out that I bought an F-4E Phantom II kit while the Blue Angels used an F-4J Phantom II according to the poster. I don’t think a google search will help me with my questions. Will the decal set fit nicely on my plane or will there be significant modification required? Does anyone know of a paint set for that “era”? I haven’t had any luck but I hope you guys know where to point me. Finally, is this blasphemy?😀
  6. I am starting to assemble the instrument panel and have to apply the decals to the clear part. Should I treat the clear part as I do a wing surface for example? Decal set and then solvent? I wasn’t sure if this would make the clear part foggy. Thanks!
  7. Oh cool, thanks! I know I was a bit uneven with the application but I thought that might add to realism. On to the P-51!
  8. Actually, the original ended up in the middle. Stuart
  9. It took a while but I finally did it. Original engine at the bottom. Used lamp black artist oil with Mona Lisa thinner. Please provide your thoughts as this is the first time weathering for me.
  10. Thanks very much for posting the link. I’m reading the article now. Looks like a mosquito with the same paint scheme as I picked. Stuart
  11. Thanks Mark. Now I understand the complicated masking for canopies 😀 We had dinner with an artist last night and he showed me a trick for making straight lines with a liner brush. Stuart
  12. Those are really cool looking. I’m going to have to stick to brushes for now. Just so I’m sure, you don’t bother with masking if you’re brushing, only if you’re using an airbrush. I’m always looking, much to my wife’s chagrin, to improve the tools I use.
  13. Good morning, i have read several threads in other forums and watched a video but I would like to hear this forum’s take on this. Painting guides show perfect smooth lines at curves an I have yet to get that right. Stuart
  14. Yes it is! I almost gave up after ruining the engine on the very first plane I tried to build (P-51D). Happily I followed advice given on these forums. Put that one on the shelf, opened the Spitfire and started asking questions. Five models later I’m ready to build the P-51, my favorite. I bought a new engine sprue on EBAY and am starting from scratch. Stuart
  15. Thanks very much. I definitely did a better job of taking enough time to do this right and putting to use the suggestions and recommendations from you guys.
  16. Thanks very much! I am very happy with this one and will continue building until I can’t. The P-51D is next. Stuart
  17. Thanks very much! When I listen to you guys I do so much better. Stuart
  18. Here is where I stand with this build. Still have to put a gloss coat over the decals and decide on any attempt at weathering the plane. I only have the models I have built since March 2020, nothing old to practice on 😀 I am going to make a wash to help make the engine look more realistic and will post results regardless. I believe it was suggested that a blackish brown wash would do the trick. Thanks as always! Stuart
  19. Unfortunately I did use a solvent in the misplaced hope I could move the pieces after application. I had to stop or make things much worse. It sounds like all I needed to do was use water or the decal set and that is a lesson learned for sure. BTW, I did try using water as suggested and the pieces would not budge (as also clearly stated). This is the first time I did anything beyond simple application of the decals over a painted surface and there's no question they look a lot better with use of the gloss and specific procedures. They go on a lot better. Perhaps just in my imagination but they seem to "snap" to the surface now. I'm not sure how to proceed yet. I certainly can look for the decals on EBay but removing it appears to present a problem with damaging the underlying decal. I still tend to get heavy handed some times. Trying to use paint to fix the problem feels a bit much for my talents at this point (but please don't let my attitude stop you from making alternative recommendations to fix problems). The tail is removable so I can access the decal easily any time. I assume something (or nothing) must be done before I put the final gloss coat on. There was one other decal mishap and I hope this one gives you a laugh after a long day. As it turns out I stopped short with the dark grey coat on the side of the fuselage. Here's how I found out. I cut out the "danger ejector seat" decal that goes on the side I was working on. I applied the micro set and moved to put the decal in place. As I noted it seemed to snap to the surface like a magnet but it literally disappeared! I thought I dropped it. Well, of course I can say it now, and you probably already have, the decal was designed for a much darker surface. I'm not going to lie, I said a few cuss words as I searched for the decal before I finally realized what happened. You guys are great and, thankfully, very patient. Stuart
  20. Well the placement of the tail decals was very good on one side and not so much on the other! The first side went on great and I am very happy with the result. Unfortunately the tiger tore at several places on the other side. It went down like a magnet and missed the outline on the lower decal by a lot. My attempts to raise it off the surface and move it were a disaster but I couldn’t leave it where it was. This is likely one of those questions that will elicit several answers but I would really like to know what any of you would do in this case. Matching the colors with paint seems doubtful. Of course the lazy answer is do nothing and display the model with the good side facing the viewer.😀 Thanks to all for providing your insight into successful model building. Stuart
  21. Okay, so the sequence should be micro set, first decal, micro set, overlay decal, micro sol. Do I have it right?
  22. Hey guys, when you stack decals like this does the micro sol go on the bottom decal before you place the overlapping decal? thanks! Stuart
  23. Thanks for the kind words and for providing your insight into successful model building. I’m also going to buckle down and mix and apply a wash to the engine displayed on the dolly. Someone earlier commented that it looked way too clean, I took that as a compliment 😀 Stuart
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