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Kinetic 1/48 E2C Hawkeye Build Series, Part 5

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Hi all,

Here's the latest progress on the Kinetic 1/48th E2C 2000.

 

A recess in the bottom of the fuselage gives you the option of replicating the CEC (Cooperative Engagement Capability).  This is the route I needed to go and I didn't anticipate any problem.  I was wrong.  It turned out that when the CEC insert is properly aligned, there's a .020" gap on the port side.  Press the insert down for a tight fit and you wind up with a slight step in relationship to the fuselage.

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The solution is simplicity itself.  All you need is a .020" x .030" Evergreen strip to fill the gap.  If you're careful, all you'll need is a very light touch with a sanding stick to blend everything together.

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Now for the fun...installation of the wing center section.  While the center section fits as it should, you won't be able to simply drop it in place and add solvent.  In this shot, the center has been installed and snugged down with a couple of rubber bands.

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Here's a closer view of what it took to attain a proper installation.  The aft end of the center section has to be pulled down with a rubber band that wraps around the fuselage.  Because of this, you want to make sure the CEC is thoroughly dry before doing so.  Then another rubber band goes under the fuselage and up over the wing stubs.

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Seen from the side, you get a better view of exactly the rubber bands were used to pull the center section down.  Also, notice the internal detail thru the crew door.  There's no interior detail in the fuselage beyond the cockpit other than this insert that allows you to position the door open if you choose.

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When everything's dry and the rubber bands are removed, you'll discover two problems in the form of seams that have to be filled.  One, the largest, is at the aft end of the center section where you had to use the heaviest rubber band.

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The other's at the front and doesn't go all the way across.

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Just like the gap on the CEC insert, a strip of .020" x .030" Evergreen strip solves the problem.

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And the same thing up front.  If you're careful, you'll barely need any sanding at all.

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The port nacelle is next and you will definitely need more rubber bands.  Take a close look at this shot and you'll see that the heavier rubber band goes over the seam between the nacelle and the wing, then under the nacelle.  In order to have continuity from the wing to the nacelle without a step, this is essential.  Then another rubber band loops under the front of the nacelle,over the wing and under the aft part of the nacelle.  This pulls the aft part of the nacelle up into position.  Everything fits exactly as it should, but it takes this approach to get it there.

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Just in case you're confused by my previous description, this side view should help clarify things.

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I repeated the process for the starboard nacelle and finally wound up with what you see here.  When everything dried and the rubber bands were removed, I was looking at a perfectly fitted wing center section and a pair of nacelles.  Next installment you'll see how well things worked out before we tackle the canopy.

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Nice tutorial on bracing and filling! Question: what cement are you using? I've used liquid cement and then had problems with it running up under the rubber bands. If you're using liquid cement, how do you avoid that?

 

GIL :cool:

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Gil, I use Micro Mark Same Stuff, which is more or less the same thing as our late lamented Ambroid ProWeld, although it's just a shade hotter.  I suppose it's that that helps in this regard.  In any case, I go ahead and apply solvent to the seam...in some cases I flat slop it on, depending on the seam...then wait til it evaporates off the surface of the part before strapping things down with a rubber band.  Works most of the time, but occasionally I have to clean up the surface where the solvent has run under the bands.  If you're working with engraved detail, that really isn't a problem, though it does make for a little extra work.  In the case of the E2C, I went so far as to slop solvent on the nacelle/wing mating surfaces so they would begin softening slightly before I brought the two together, then mated the two, added more solvent to the top seam, waited til the excess evaporated from the surface and strapped everything down.  Keep in mind that this approach does not require pinpoint application with specialized applicators like so many prefer these days.  Matter of fact, the pinpoint method wouldn't even work in this case.  Most of the time all I use for most of my plastic kit construction is the applicator brush that comes attached to the bottle cap and is relatively sloppy by comparison.  All I can say is that it works for me.  Hope some of this helps.

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Another something to try: strap things in place (dry) with the rubber bands, and then insert toothpicks under the rubber bands on either side of the seam.  They will prop the rubber bands up off the surface so the cement doesn't run under them.  Apply the cement of your choosing, and let 'er dry.  Works like a charm...

Cheers!

R

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Good idea, Ralph.  Probably wouldn't have worked on the E2C nacelle seam, but would on most.  Thanks for an excellent tip.

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