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Everything posted by SkyKing

  1. If you have an image editing program such as Photoshop, you can scale the image to the size you need before printing it. However, this demands that you know the original size of the design first. For example, if you want to print a design that is 4 feet (48 inches) high in real life to fit a 1/48 scale model, you must reduce the size of that image to 1 inch high. There are simply too many variables to tell you what "size of picture" you need to print a given decal to fit a given model. But if you have a drawing program such as Illustrator, you can draw your own designs to the correct size to begin with. But again, this demands that you know the actual size of the original design.
  2. A Google search (Google is your friend) for "painting polyethylene plastic" turned up many sites. One suggests using an alkyd oil-based primer followed by a compatible exterior-grade paint. Another suggests Rustoleum spray-can primer for plastic patio furniture and also suggests scuffing the surface first with sandpaper to help adhesion. A good exterior enamel is probably necessary for the final finish, and you would probably be better off using spray cans instead of the airbrush.
  3. Or use these: Archer's Fine Transfers Raised Panel Lines
  4. They're there; I just didn't look hard enough for them. I deleted all the cookies for ipmsusa2.org, quit Safari, then re-opened it. That seemed to have solved the problem, and so far it has not re-occurred.
  5. I'm having the same problem, but only when I first try to view the forums, not while switching from one to another. I have "Remember Me" checked, and it always worked until just recently, say within the last week or two.
  6. The term "Aztec' simply comes from the similarity of the pattern seen on the primary hull to the steps of a Central American Aztec temple. And, yes, the pattern is intended to simulate the hull plating of the "real" starship's construction, like the different tones of natural metal visible in the construction of a real metal aircraft. For an interesting article on how the "real" Enterprise was painted, and how to duplicate it, go here: http://www.olsenart.com/strek.html
  7. Fans of "Forbidden Planet" no doubt have this kit. I do as well, but was surprised to learn that the saucer dome is too small and the wrong shape. Some time ago, on another forum, a modeler announced the availability of a replacement part. I just received mine, and it is an outstanding product, vac-formed in 0.060" styrene over a lathe-turned master and pre-cut to fit. It is a real piece of work that truly enhances what is basically a good kit. You can see the difference in this photo: Cost is only $22.50 plus $6.00 shipping and handling in the US (plus another $1.50 if using PayPal). If interested, send an email to: panotraguis@comcast.net I have no financial interest in this product, but highly recommend it to fans of the Polar Lights C-57D kit.
  8. This was posted yesterday on HyperScale: After reviewing the response which was sent to your friend and fellow modeler, I wanted to follow up with you regarding the information that was initially shared with him. Future® is still being manufactured, but is now named Pledge® with Future® Shine. The formula of the product has not changed. It is true; however, that Pledge® with Future® Shine has not been tested for use on plastic scale models so we cannot recommend it for that purpose. As you know weve designed this product for floor care. It sounds as if Future® found a special niche with plastic scale model builders, and we are happy that it has worked well for you. Thank you for giving us a chance to set the record straight. Regards, Kcrista Consumer Relationship Center SC Johnson, A Family Company Toll Free Number: 1-800-558-5252 www.scjbrands.com Which confirms what many of us have said all along, namely, that Future is still available, only the name has been changed. (But I ran out and bought three more bottles of "Pledge with Future Shine" anyway, just in case!)
  9. Future has been replaced by "Pledge with Future Shine" in the US. Only the name has been changed; the product is the same. The formula is no different in the US.
  10. I'll take both off your hands if you are serious about getting rid of them.
  11. I may resort to that. I hadn't thought that anything so specialized as that would be in a public library.
  12. Does anyone in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area have a copy of this book by John Beaman that I can borrow? I'll be at tomorrow's NCT meeting.
  13. For the complete story of ABT decals, see here: http://modelstories.free.fr/histokits/ABT_Gene/index.html It's in French, but BabelFish or Google Translate will render it in English.
  14. There are a couple of Yahoo groups you should join: the Alps group (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Alps/) and the Alps Decal group (http://groups.yahoo.com/group/alpsdecal/). Both have extensive documentation and how-tos in their files.
  15. There was no Federal Spec (as in Federal Spec 595) because FS 595 did not exist until the late 1950s. None of my references show an ANA number for silver, either. Any old silver dope will do. The wings of P-51s were not just doped silver and waxed, either. Because the wing was a laminar flow airfoil and very sensitive to surface irregularities, many skin panel joints on the wings of P-51s were puttied smooth before painting. I believe both Hyperscale and the Aircraft Research Center forums have devoted extensive discussion to this topic.
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