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About steelheader

  • Birthday 08/13/1941

Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
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  • Local Chapter
    West Michigan
  • City
    Grand Rapids
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  • Location
    Grand Rapids, Michigan
  • Interests
    1/48th scale aircraft, 1/35 scale military vehicles, figures, fly-tying and fishing
  1. Just a quick thought: if someone has this decal sheet but does not want to send it too me, perhaps you could scan and email it to me. I have a club friend that could create a decal that just might help.
  2. I am building the old Hasegawa F-4J Phantom, "Showtime 100". I have the original kit decals plus the Microscale Set 48-300. All the decals are old, and I am using the Microscale to supplement the kit decals. The small kit decals (stencils) have all performed well, but the larger decals will sometime crack or roll over on themselves. The "USS CONSTELLATION" decal applied to the right side of the aircraft went on without a problem. The left side decal cracked in three places and parts folded over, resulting in an unusable decal. Dose anyone have a set of the kit decals that they are willing to part with? or can you point me where I can find a replacement? Microscale offers a set of letters that may work, so that could be my fallback. I am happy to compensate for the decals. Any help you may offer will be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your help,
  3. I did give the model a good rinse with warm, soapy water after the oven cleaner exercise. An old toothbrush was used in all the nooks and crannies. Much more work to go to remove the paint and re-scribing the panel lines. Generally I wash the models with Dawn and warm water and a distilled water rinse prior to painting. At least two days of dry time follows the wash and rinse. Thanks for the pointers and support. More to come.
  4. Here is an update on this project. We have had a spell of unseasonable warm weather for the last week, so I thought this would be a good time to go outside and remove the enamel paint previously applied by my friend. I used heavy-duty oven cleaner and water to rinse the paint and cleaner off the surface. It took two applications and most of the blue paint came off, but the white paint on the undersides appeared totally unfazed by all the attention. The second application did affect the epoxy holding the wing in place on the fuselage. I now have a separate wing section and fuselage to work on. Plus, I managed to break the struts on both wing floats. I also see that as a plus for future efforts. The steel bars at the bottom of the fuselage are now exposed, but I have decided to retain them in place and live with the extra weight. This should prove to be an interesting, if not challenging project. I will see about posting some images in the future for the progress.
  5. Thanks to all for your comments. As I noted above the model is a partially assembled 1/48th scale resin kit. The steel weights are visible through the top turret and nose possible, and therefore access is quite restricted. After a Google search everything I found to remove or loosen epoxy is hazardous to one's health, flammable, smelly and generally not inviting. I have decided to live with the weights in place and begin the restoration and hopefully completion of the project. I expect this to be a very long-term activity. Go slow and plan the work. Thank you again.
  6. Thanks for the input. My wife already said I could not put my models in the freezer.
  7. I recently acquired a partially built 1/48th scale Pend Oreille kit of the PBM-5 Mariner. This kit was given to me at our local club meeting last night by a friend that felt he would not ever finish the build. The four-part fuselage has been assembled, the wings and pontoons are in place. My friend had planned to display the model in flight on a magnetic base so that he could change the display with the model level or banking as the mood might strike him. To achieve this flexibility he epoxied steel bars in the bottom of the hull. The bars are visible through the dorsal turret position. The bars are probably 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide and maybe 4" to 6" long. I can imagine that a large resin kit would be heavy enough on its own, but the added steel would further increase the weight. I can probably live with the steel in place if I must, but would like to remove it to make future handling during the rebuild process a bit easier. Also, I plan to install beaching gear, therefore the removal of the steel weights would reduce the stress on the gear. Does anyone have any thoughts on how I can loosen the hold the epoxy has on the steel? My first thought was to store the kit in our basement freezer for a day and then see if I can carefully pry the bars out. I recognize the freezing would probably make the resin more brittle, but my thinking is the steel may shrink and possibly separate from the epoxy. Remember, the bars are only accessible through the dorsal turret opening which is about 1" in diameter. Any help you may offer will be greatly appreciated. I was told this kit cost $200 several years ago, so it would be a shame not to make some effort to save and rebuild it.
  8. Casual attire is fine with me as long as T-shirts do not have an offense message. Jeans with blown out knees and backside are definitely not appropriate. Although this next topic has nothing to do with attire it does have an impact on the banquet participants, speaker(s) and the presentation ceremony: people who talk to other members of their table when a speaker is at the podium. I had a situation a few years back at a convention when two men were having a rather loud and lengthy conversation during the opening comments. Their conversation when on and on, until I went over to their table and asked them to refrain from talking during the presentations. They were embarrassed and obliged my request. Later I was approached by a gentlemen who apologized to me for his friends behavior. It was obvious his friends were being rude, but they seemed not to recognize that behavior as out of line. Be it attire or other behavior during the banquet let us all be aware of the generally accepted rules of casual society. Be considerate of others.
  9. Thank you all for your responses. I have seen the fiberglass pencil mentioned in several foreign modeling publications, and only one issued a cautionary note regarding the issue of fibers. I was mostly curious about its possible use, but will look into the 3M pen. One can never have too many tools. Thanks again.
  10. Has anyone had any experience using a fiberglass pencil to eliminate ejector pin marks in tight corners? Or in removing mold lines on landing gear struts, both plastic and metal? I do understand the fiber shards can cause some discomfort/pain if they encounter exposed skin, and therefore gloves and safety glasses should be worn. Any other uses in plastic modeling?
  11. That did it!! Thank you so much for the help.
  12. Thanks for the information. I recall that the gear doors were closed when the aircraft was on the ground, but those speed brakes just have to be open! Adds some interest, but not necessarily accuracy to the model. Thanks again.
  13. I had similar problems with Future and decal solutions. Recently I have exercised extreme patience and allowed the Future gloss coat to dry for 48 hours. When applying the decals I float them into place with water, and then use a Q-tip to squeegee the water out from under the decal, and finally blot everything with a folded paper towel. I apply the decal solvent on the decal, removing any solvent from the adjacent surfaces, and allow the decal to dry. A second application of solvent may be required so use the same procedure. Prior to applying the final clear coat I use a damp cotton cloth to wipe down the decaled areas and remove any solvent residue. This solved my problem.
  14. I purchased the Hobby Boss 1/48th scale FJ-4B Fury at a local contest last year and have just discovered there were no instructions included. This is kit number 80313. The kit looks quite easy and could probably be built without the instructions, but I would prefer to have them to assure nothing is missed, goes in backwards, upside down or some other possible disaster. I did a search and found one image of a partial page showing fuselage and wings, but not all the details were included. Can anyone provide some assistance in this matter? Thank you for any help you may offer.
  15. Thanks for the response. I did check MicroScale and Aeromaster and struck out. I plan to be at the Nationals and will plan on digging through the various piles of decals sheets. I appreciate your help.
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