SkyKing

In response to an inquiry from Mary Jane Kinney, I did some research and very quickly found this on-line obituary (at http://www.legacy.com/obituaries/dallasmorningnews/obituary.aspx?pid=163258579) "Sage, James H. James H. Sage, 84, of Dallas, passed away on February 16, 2013 in a nursing home in Knox City, Texas. James was born September 4, 1928 in Kalamazoo, Michigan; the son of Howard & Bonnie Sage. He moved to Dallas in 1951 where he was employed by Southwestern Life Insurance Company. He married Peggye Bright in the early 1950s. James enjoyed traveling & spending time with his church friends & others. He also wrote a small paper called Durango Drive News, with his friend Old Bear. James is preceded in death by his wife and brother Richard Sage. He is survived by his sisters Mary Popejoy, Penny Lamb, Pam Doherty & Hester Dulla; and a brother Howard Sage. Funeral services will be held at 2pm on Wednesday, February 27, 2013, at the Hughes Crown Hill Funeral Home. Interment will follow at Calvary Hill Cemetery." I'm pretty certain this is our Jim; I know he worked for Southwestern Life Insurance Company, his wife's name was Peggy, and they lived on Durango Drive in Dallas. I first met Jim in 1967 after joining IPMS, and I spent a night on their sofa once after Braniff cancelled my return flight back to home in Wichita Falls, and woke up the following morning to find one of their cats sleeping on my chest! It was Jim who was responsible for the "International" in IPMS, when he began promoting the British Plastic Modelers Society by placing announcements in kits that he imported in the early 1960s. As interest grew, Jim became the first Executive Director of IPMS-USA, running the US branch from his house in Dallas. He actually was the first member of IPMS-USA, but forgot to give himself a membership number! Accordingly, he was named Member #0 by IPMS-USA a few years ago. I have no idea how long he was in the nursing home, but what's really sad is that I moved back to Texas and the Dallas area in 2005, and Knox City is not so far away that I and others could not have gone to visit him had we known where he was. But he and Peggye had no children, so there was no immediate family to keep us informed as to his health or whereabouts.

Gil, I've never said that accuracy should be the sole criteria of a kit review. A kit that's 100% accurate but impossible to build because of poor design and instructions is, to me, as worthless as a kit that's well-designed for ease of assembly, has easy-to understand instructions, and has beautifully printed decals but is completely wrong in shape and size. I simply maintain that an assessment of a kit's accuracy should be included in any review as part of that "fair commentary on the kit's pluses and minuses." In looking at the Reviews section of our web site, I see no easy way to add critiques, comments, or addenda to reviews. That needs to be fixed, so they can be added.

I don't think I'm at cross purposes at all. If a review is, as you say, "a fair commentary on the kit's pluses and minuses," then why omit such minuses as gross inaccuracies in a review? Why have we become so complacent about the products offered to us that we are willing to overlook flaws in those products? If a review can call out the "shortcomings of the supplied decal scheme," then why can't it call out the shortcomings of its representation of the subject? Those of us who "demand accuracy" are as entitled to know what's wrong with a kit as those who have only a passing interest in the subject; our hobby dollars are just as good. My comment was not meant as a criticism of Jim's review so much as it was a comment on how, in general, our "reviews" have become so un-critical to the point that they really don't tell us anything. When IPMS was founded, its objectives were to help modelers build not just better models, but more accurate models, including advice on correct paint colors, correct markings, and correct shapes and sizes of the plastic parts. Knowing how well a kit's parts fit together is important, but a review should be more than just that. I'm not an expert on the Boeing 720. My remarks on the accuracy of the Roden kit were based on comments by others, whose opinions and knowledge I respect, on other forums: http://tinyurl.com/l8uaj66 (BritModeller) http://tinyurl.com/ktyffg4 (Airliner Cafe) Best Boeing 720 available: Authentic Airliners or Welsh Models

… fails to mention that the engines are too large, cabin windows are too small, fuselage panel lines are in the wrong place, and wheels/tires are the wrong size.

IPMS members everywhere are welcome and encouraged to attend IPMS-North Central Texas's ScaleFest, which returns to the Grapevine Convention Center, Grapevine, Texas, Saturday, May 31, 2014. New categories! New awards! Vendor tables available! Check our web site periodically for updates.

This is the new tool kit, released about a year ago. I'm looking for one.

ScaleFest 2013, brought to you by IPMS-North Central Texas, is less than 4 weeks away (May 11), and IPMS Members and guests in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area and surrounding states are encouraged to attend and enter their models. Let's set a record! As of Sunday's IPMS-North Central Texas meeting, we have sold 56 vendor tables and have email commitments for another 39. With these email commitments, ScaleFest 2013 is SOLD OUT of vendor tables. If you interested in being a vendor but have not yet reserved a table or contacted us by email, there is still hope. We are starting a waiting list in case some tables should become available. If you are interested in being placed on the waiting list, please contact me: skyking918(at)verizon(dot)net. Thanks to those of you who have already reserved tables or committed to same. ScaleFest would not be a success without your support.

If you are looking for 3-blade props for the new Platz 1/144 C-46 (it seems many, if not most, civilian C-46s used 3-blade Curtis Electric props instead of the 4-blade variety), one source is the Roden VC-118 "The Independence" (President Truman's 'Air Force One'), which comes with a set of Curtiss Electric props in addition to the usual Hamilton Standard props. Squadron currently has this kit as a "Web Only Sale" item for $8.00! Here is the link: http://www.squadron.com/product-p/rd0307.htm

Except as noted above, the reprint is still a good book and worth purchasing if you do not own an original issue.

It appears that Squad/Sig has revised the layout of this book, which was first released in 2006. In reviewing the latest issue of this volume, Bart Cusumano states, "I did find an error to the caption of a photo on page 58 which describes the photo as a Marine loading an Mk-82 Snakeye, when in fact, he is loading ammo for the 20mm gun." I was Editor at Squadron/Signal in 2006 and edited and designed the layout for the 2006 edition. I checked my copy, and the captions on page 58 are correct! When I designed the layout for the first edition, I used small triangles as arrows to point the captions to the corresponding photos, but the current Squad/Sig editor has removed them. I note also that the current editor has resized many of the photos to make them uniformly sized. This has resulted in the cropping out of some detail in some photos.

Part 4A: side-by-side with 1/350 CVN-65

Part 3C:

Part 3B:

Part 3A:

Part 2D:

Part 4 of 4 (with more to come):

Part 3 of 4:

Part 2 of 4:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9qsS0Kf-6g Note: I am not ModelMan!

http://www.aiaahouston.org/newsletter/ For those unaware, in the early 1950′s Collier’s magazine (similar to “The Saturday Evening Post”) ran a series of articles written by the likes of Willy Ley and Werner von Braun, illustrated by the likes of Chesley Bonestell and Fred Freeman, describing what the future of manned space exploration may look like. Their vision was, to put it mildly, grandiose, and far exceeded what the actual space program became and did… but the impact on the public of these articles helped lead to the space program becoming popular with the public… and the government. The designs that were produced, such as the Ferry Rocket and “Wheel” space stations, are comfortably described as “iconic.” The July/August 2012 issue of AIAA-Houston Horizons reprints the complete first Collier’s article from March 22, 1952. The original magazine layout included numerous ads and extraneous bits that were edited out of this reprint, and in several cases replaced with “Mini-APR” articles, several of which tie directly into the Collier’s series. This first article includes about 30 pages of the original Collier’s stuff. Future issues of Horizons will carry the complete set of Collier’s article,s including the Moon exploration and Mars exploration articles. As always, Horizons is a free-to-download PDF. New for this issue, it is available in both high and low resolution. This project is the work of Scott Lowther (Up-Ship.com), who has been scanning and repairing the old “Collier’s space series” articles from the early 1950′s for reprinting in the AIAA-Houston section newsletter. As far as I’m aware, this is the first time these have been republished in clear, high-rez and full color format since the original release.

What is the best tool for cutting photoetched parts without damaging them? I don't mean removing them from the fret, but cutting them to fit the area where they are supposed to go? Rant mode on: Why is it that the photoetched parts in many aftermarket detail sets seem to be designed by someone who has never seen the highly detailed resin accessory they are sold with and intended to accentuate? Case in point is the interior set for a common two-seat fighter variant in use by a major US air force (and others), sold by a major eastern European manufacturer of such sets (I won't mention the company's real name; let's call it "God-of-War"). Some of the instrument panels included look to be in a completely different scale and, as designed, clearly will not fit the area to which they are supposed to be affixed without major trimming. Also, why is it necessary to provide photoetched details which will never be seen within the confines of tiny 1/72 cockpits? Why can't some of these details be modeled into the master and cast as an integral part of the resin component? It's enough to drive a confirmed 1/72 scale enthusiast to 1/48 or even 1/32 scale! Rant mode off.

Here are some other resources: http://sailing-ships.oktett.net/square-rigging.html http://www.gl-group.com/infoServices/rules/pdfs/gl_i-4-1_e.pdf There are several good books available on the rigging of sailing ship models. Here are some: http://www.amazon.com/The-Art-Rigging-Dover-Maritime/dp/0486263436/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_t_1 http://www.amazon.com/Ship-Modeling-Stem-Stern-Milton/dp/product-description/0830628444 http://www.amazon.com/Historic-Ship-Models-Wolfram-Mondfeld/dp/1402721862 http://www.amazon.com/The-Ship-Model-Builders-Assistant/dp/0486255840/ref=pd_sim_b_5

The conventional wisdom says gloss coat-decals-flat coat. However, applying a gloss coat over flat paint changes the reflectance and makes the color appear darker. So if you have carefully mixed paint to get the proper color, or bought paint in the proper color you have just undone your work by overcoating it with gloss, unless you lighten the paint to compensate. Here's are two alternatives: 1. Spray your model with satin or gloss paints to begin with. Humbrol makes satin versions of most current camouflage colors, and Xtraclour makes gloss paints in camouflage colors. 2. Use flat paints, but trim away all clear film from the decals. Here's my method: A. While the paint is drying, carefully trim away all the clear film surrounding the decals while they are still on the paper backing. It's not necessary to cut all the way through the paper, just into it enough to separate the clear film. B. Once paint is dry, apply decals. Remove one item at a time from the sheet with scissors, float it on top of your decal water (distilled is preferred) for a few seconds, then remove it and place it on a paper towel. Use a small brush to brush away the excess clear film from around the edges. C. Apply some Micro Set to the area where the decal is to go. Using a brush, carefully slide the decal off the paper onto the model, and position it. Once the decal is where you want it, use a piece of paper towel to wick away excess Micro Set. D. Now, apply some Micro Sol to the decal. This will cause it to shrivel temporarily as it works, but don't worry about it. Watch it carefully as the Micro Sol does its thing. When the "shrivels" all appear to be nearly gone and the Micro Sol is almost dry, use a soft cloth (such as a microfiber cloth) to gently press the decal onto the model. Conventional wisdom says you're not supposed to touch the decal while it's setting, but if you wait until most of the Micro Sol has evaporated and are careful, no harm will come to it. E. Allow decals to thoroughly dry and examine model carefully to see if there is any residue from the Micro Set/Micro Sol left on the surface. If so, use a dampened cotton swab to gently remove it. F. When model is completely decaled, clean, and dry, spray on a light coat of your favorite clear satin finish. Why satin and not flat? Looks more realistic. Most aircraft have a slight sheen to them from oils, fuels, hydraulic fluid, etc. A clear satin acrylic is preferred here, as clear acrylics do not yellow as much as clear enamels or lacquers, if they yellow at all. You can mix your own clear satin from Future and Tamiya's Flat Base. For very small decals such as stenciling, where it is impractical to trim away all the clear film, apply just a light coat of clear gloss in only the area where the decal is to go and apply the decal on top of that area once the gloss coat is dry. Most modern aircraft use decals for this and applied in the same manner. I've cut paper masks to the shapes of stencil decals and sprayed gloss through those so as not to alter the overall flat finish. Once you get into the rhythm of applying decals in this manner, you will find that it takes no more time than the conventional method. And the results are better than the conventional method, IMHO. And regardless of which method you use, you should always use Micro Set and Micro Sol.

Her overall configuration remained basically the same as built (except for the pilot), with some changes post-Civil War due to conversion to oil burning and the addition of modern air brakes, to mention just two. Her gauge was originally 5 feet, like most southern railroads, but this was later changed to 4 feet 8 1/2 inches, a change which would hardly be visible in HO/OO gauge. "The General and the Texas" is available from Amazon.com. It's a great read.

Cool! Thanks for posting. I have learned that General did not have wheel brakes until much later than the Chase (she was thrown into reverse to stop,like most locomotives of the period), and that her pilot (cowcatcher) was different from that shown in most illustrations and as currently displayed. A good source is "The General and the Texas" by Stan Cohen and James G. Bogle, published by Pictorial Histories Publishing Co., but it does not have any clear walkaround photos like we modelers crave, especially of all the mechanical stuff forward of the driving wheels.