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ju52junk

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by ju52junk

  1. After 50 years of building models, I have inhaled all kinds of paint fumes(from Pactra to Hataka). I know inhaleing all these fumes is not healthy, akin to sniffing glue. I am just wondering whar people think is the most "pleasent" smelling paint fume? Enamels seem to be the stinkest, that is why I just use acrylics now. Some paints if I get a whiff of I can tell what lthe brand of paint is. I can always tell if Polly-S acrylic, Tamiya acryilic, Humbrol enamall or Vallejo acryiic is being used. The paint fume that I most pleasent to smell is Vallejo, smells like there is perfume in the paint. So, what paint do you find the "stinkest" smelling to the most "pleasent" smelling?
  2. I have the royal class Fw-190 early birds hope they have no fit issues. When I start them I wil keep everyone updated. Plus, I have all the PE and resin.
  3. I would like to use Steel Beach OOP resin whees for the Trumpter Sky Warrior AD3. I do not wish to use the rubber wheels that came with the kit. I have been searching the web for months, including e-bay with no luck. Does anyone have one for sale?
  4. Great looking EF-18. I like the shading around the panel lines. What is the brand of paint/metallics did you use? I have a Growler in my stash that one day I will build. The Growler is not the EF-18 but the EA-6 that was flown when I worked on the flight deck of the USS Eisenhower in the late 70 's. The days of the much more colorful hi-viz pant schemes
  5. On Amazon/Ebay a Substance called Spaz Stix is sold it is called plastic prep to use before airbrushing. Years ago when Polly S plastic prep was available I would this to wipe down the plastc prior to airbrushing. Has anyone use Spaz Stix before?
  6. This may have been mentioned in another post. I saw on a Florey Model YouTube video how to make a great filler. Get an empty Tamiya paint mixing jar, add to the jar some black colored Evergreen styrene cut up into small chunks, then add some Tamiya quick drying thin cement(the stuff with green cap). Let the styrene dissolve for a day, so you have a nice gooey texture. Then you can put the gooey mixture on a mating surface and put the two parts together. The glue in the mixture will bond the parts together and the gooey styrene will act as a filler. Wait about 24 hours for the mixture to set before sanding and any small gaps will be filled. On larger gaps like wing joints apply the mixture with a toothpick, allow to cure then sand. I have had good results. I like the styrene/glue mixture better than putty. Just make sure it is fully cured before sanding.
  7. I love seaplanes also. Will not have to worry too much about the rigging for the Dave and Pete seaplanes. I ordered from Japan some PE metal rigging Hasegawa made exclusively for these 2 planes. Similar to the PE rigging Tamiya made for the Swordfish(which reminds me that I also need to buy the Swordfish with it's PE rigging). Already have the Rufe and Rex Japanese seaplanes built. I still have to build the German Arado Ar 196 and the Japanese Aichi M6A1 Seiran. All in 1/48 scale.
  8. I could be wrong, but it was a one piece canopy.
  9. Been on a buying spree. Bought all these kits recently(will I ever build all of them?) along with all the aftermarket goodies.
  10. Gloster Meteor, Eduard PE cockpit, Eduard canopy mask, True details resin wheels, AK paint, used lead pencil for panel lines.
  11. Hasegawa Hurricane. Eduard PE cockpit. CMK resin wheels, Montex canopy mask, Resin tail wheel/strut, Quickboost Resin Exhausts, Resin prop and spinner, Vallejo paints, AK panel line wash, AML camouflage mask. Had trouble with this build(all self induced). The right side landing light when clipping off the sprue was ejected into the ever hungry "carpet monster" never to be seen again. Also, as you can see in the photo the fin flashes did not react well (wrinkled) to Walther's solvaset. Must of broke the tail wheel, rear antenna mast and lower pitot tube about a half dozen times.
  12. Tamiya's 1/48 N1K1. Eduard PE cockpit, Eduard canopy mask, Vallejo paint. Used a lead pencil for the panel lines. I wish Tamiya would use a duller red for the Hinomarus.
  13. About half finished with the P-40E. Will have decals for a P-40F operating in the MTO. Not sure, but I think no really big changes in the airframe between the E and F, just the powerplant and the wing mounted 50s from 4 guns in each wing to 3 guns in each wing. Does anyone know if the E or F have antenna wires or a an antenna mast? I do not see either wires or a mast in my references. Eduard cockpit PE with a resin seat. Sorry for the focus.
  14. I built this kit(Aurora MBT70) too when I was wee lad. Didn't the actual design get cancelled by West Germany/USA? The only tank I still have from those days is the Aurora Swedish S tank. Not in the best of shape any longer. I think I built all of the 1/48 scale Aurora tanks.
  15. Thanks for the tip Gil. I bought some "Lucky" varnish from Mig the other day. Hopefully this varnish will not yellow over time.
  16. Great looking biplane. Nice job on the rigging. What material did you use for the rigging?
  17. I will try exposing the model to sunlight. Thanks for the info.
  18. Years ago I built a F6F Hellcat. At that time I used Testor's Master Model Enamel paints and used Testor's Semi gloss Lacquer spray for the clear coat. Over time where the white paint is the paint has yellowed. Is the yellowing on the enamel white paint or the Lacquer clear coat? Is the enamel paint out gassing and causing the lacquer to yellow over time? What can I do(if anything) to remove the yellowing? Thanks.
  19. Tamiya's FW 190-A3, Eduard' PE cockpit, Eduard's Canopy Mask, True details Wheels, Master Model Gun Barrels, Vallejo Paint, AK Panel Line Wash.
  20. Hasegawa's 1/48 Ki 61 "Tony". Eduard's PE cockpit, True Details Resin Wheels, Quickboost resin exhausts, Eduard's Canopy Mask. AK paint, Panel Line Wash.
  21. Tamiya's 1/48 He 162-A2. Eduard's PE cockpit, Eduard's Canopy Mask, True details Resin Wheels. Master Model Pitot tube and Gun Barrels. AK paint, Metallizer, Panel line wash.
  22. I really would like to thank everyone for the kind comments made on my aircraft builds. Also, thanks to all the good suggestions to the questions I ask. Living in Vermont, it is a breath of fresh air to talk to fellow modellers who have the same passion about building models that I do. No longer do I have to hear models called toys and I am too old to be making models. I have made models all my life, except the 4 years I was in the Navy(worked on A7-Es).
  23. Gil, I agree. I wil post pictures of the plane without any self censorship, and see if the pics get deleted. Being new to IPMS, I just wanted to see what the comments would be. It is historical fact there was suggestive art on WW2 aircraft.
  24. I will try wire on one model and EZ line on another model, to see which method of rigging I like best. I use EZ liine for antenna wire but not for rigging. I have been on a buying binge lately(who am I kidding, I am always on a buying binge). I have just ordered Hasegawa's Dave and Pete(both biplane float planes and Hasegawa's PE rigging made for both planes(like the PE rigging for Tamiya's Swordfish).
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