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Ransomeli

IPMS/USA Member
  • Posts

    18
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About Ransomeli

  • Birthday 03/29/1965

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    David
  • LastName
    Mason
  • IPMS Number
    44492
  • Local Chapter
    Mid-Michigan Model Makers
  • City
    Standish
  • State
    Mi
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Standish,Mi

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  1. I have owned many Oldsmobiles 1-1 scale over the years. Like I said above "do your research for the year you want to build if you want accuracy. Olds motors were red, bronze, different blues, gold, and black just depends on the year and cubic inch of them. Most GM motors were black after about 1982-1983. As far as your model, build it the way YOU want to. Just have fun doing it. Post some pics here with your WIP Dave
  2. I'd call them, I just tried it and it worked on my end, at least up to wanting my CC. Good luck Hope to see you there. It's past my bedtime.....
  3. Chris, if you just click the link on the Nats page the code is automatically applied. keep trying.
  4. Engine blocks of that era were almost a flat black. A few drops of gloss or semi-gloss added to flat black. Most frames, core supports, and fender wells were a semi-gloss as well as some of the front suspension and rear axle. There are plenty of web sites to do your research just by googling. I have a few of those kits with the plans of doing the 83 H/O, 84H/O, 85 442 and the 87 442. I might actually finish one......someday. Dave
  5. Those particular colors due end up flat in my experiences with them. A lot flatter than chrome, if you put too much paint, they seem to be flatter also. It is a fine line between just right and adding 1 more coat turns them flat. Adding a clear coat will change the look also, it's trial and error till you get your technique down. As long as the solvent hasn't evaporated, age hasn't affected any of my Alclad, some of mine are 5-6 years old and still work fine. All I can suggest is to do the very thin coats and slowly work up to the look you're going for. If you put that "one more coat will do it" it will ruin the look of depth from the black undercoat. Don't know if it helps much, Alclad can be finnicky to get the look right, temp, humidity etc. all play a part in the final finish. Good luck, Dave
  6. Try Model Car World MCW Finishes - Model Paint, Factory Colors, Hobby Shop, Model Paint The color you need is even on sale at the moment. Dave
  7. Hi everyone, On the smaller parts I usually clean up the seams and the sink marks then touch up with Molotow chrome pen. Then a thin coat of Tamiya smoke to tone the "toy like" brightness down. On the larger ones I'll strip and I'll airbrush the Alclad chrome system. Practice on a few scrap parts, it's a fairly easy learning curve. Just let it dry thoroughly and handle as little as possible. This is the easiest and cheapest way that works for me. Try a few of the ways mentioned and you'll know what works best for you.
  8. Congrats on the new chapter. We at Mid-Michigan Model Makers wish you well. If you need anything,let us know. We'll see what we can do.
  9. Thank you. Will pass it on to our club board.
  10. Any dates planned on when the sponsorship for trophy's will be available?
  11. We'll have about 6 from the Mid-Michigan Model Makers driving in. Rushing to finish a couple to enter...
  12. Got my room booked. Went from $199 down to $139 with all the taxes. Very easy to deal with.....once I got the right person.
  13. I called the hotel in Loveland today and was told that the 2013 IPMS rates were already sold out. At least I'm on a wait list. Dave M. IPMS # 44492
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