Ransomeli

I use a white ink pen from "Jelly Roll" brand. It is a jel pen with many colors available. It has a fine enough tip to do most tires. It does take a while to dry, so I usually do half a tire and start another one, go through all of them and go back and finish them. I do this so I don't smear the still wet ink. Dave

Nice!!

I use MCW lacquer on most of my projects. I use Mr. surfacer 1000 for the most part. I do use MCW primer also. Be careful when using Tamiya primer, they changed the formula a few years ago. Since the new stuff has come out I have had issue with it.( paint not sticking or reacting enough to have to strip it.) Use MCW primer and second choice is the MR surfacer, you won't have any issues if your prep work is kept clean.

I have tried Elmers, and a few others I always go back to G-S Hypo watch crystal cement. Dries clear and is a strong bond. I use it for automotive/truck glass and canopies without an issue. Micromark carries it.

Could possibly be a sub thread/folder in the existing cars, trucks and motorcycle page. Dave

Nice You can also use the resin as a glue. With a toothpick and a tiny drop on each piece, press together and hit it with the light for 10 seconds or so. I have used it to glue 3D printed resin together and resin to plastic. The clear resin doesn't fog, like when CA glue fumes get too close to clear styrene. It's great when a product has more than one use. Dave

I look forward to more pics. Very interesting view. Dave

It's possible you waited a little too long before thinning. I usually only wait an hour or two before thinning and using. I just use the cheap hardware store lacquer thinner for most enamels and lacquers and cleaning. It dulls enamels a little, but after curing and polishing it gets the shine back. Tamiya acrylics I use 91% rubbing alcohol. Vallejo, AK and AMMO I use there thinner or distilled water. You're welcome, this has usually worked for me. Test until you get the mixture your happy with. Each color will have a slight change in the amount of thinner you may need. For lacquers and enamels, both out of the bottle and decanted, I start with a 2-1 paint to thinner ratio and adjust + or - a few drops until it sprays smoothly. Dave

I decant the paint and let it sit for a while, about an hour,to let the propellant gas off. Then thin with appropriate thinner and test on a scrap or paint mule. When happy with your spray pattern, then paint your model. If it's not thinned enough, it will clog fairly quickly. Dave

I have owned many Oldsmobiles 1-1 scale over the years. Like I said above "do your research for the year you want to build if you want accuracy. Olds motors were red, bronze, different blues, gold, and black just depends on the year and cubic inch of them. Most GM motors were black after about 1982-1983. As far as your model, build it the way YOU want to. Just have fun doing it. Post some pics here with your WIP Dave

I'd call them, I just tried it and it worked on my end, at least up to wanting my CC. Good luck Hope to see you there. It's past my bedtime.....

Chris, if you just click the link on the Nats page the code is automatically applied. keep trying.

Engine blocks of that era were almost a flat black. A few drops of gloss or semi-gloss added to flat black. Most frames, core supports, and fender wells were a semi-gloss as well as some of the front suspension and rear axle. There are plenty of web sites to do your research just by googling. I have a few of those kits with the plans of doing the 83 H/O, 84H/O, 85 442 and the 87 442. I might actually finish one......someday. Dave

Those particular colors due end up flat in my experiences with them. A lot flatter than chrome, if you put too much paint, they seem to be flatter also. It is a fine line between just right and adding 1 more coat turns them flat. Adding a clear coat will change the look also, it's trial and error till you get your technique down. As long as the solvent hasn't evaporated, age hasn't affected any of my Alclad, some of mine are 5-6 years old and still work fine. All I can suggest is to do the very thin coats and slowly work up to the look you're going for. If you put that "one more coat will do it" it will ruin the look of depth from the black undercoat. Don't know if it helps much, Alclad can be finnicky to get the look right, temp, humidity etc. all play a part in the final finish. Good luck, Dave

Try Model Car World MCW Finishes - Model Paint, Factory Colors, Hobby Shop, Model Paint The color you need is even on sale at the moment. Dave