Ron Bell

This is the Matchbox Churchill AVRE SBGB.( That translates to Armoured Vehicle Royal Engineers, Small Box Girder Bridge.) It's done OOTB. I used the destroyed bridge from their Sherman Firefly kit to put together a setting for it. The bridge is nicely done but the tank itself is pretty simplified. But, it is the only injection kit of this vehicle, so here it is in all its 'glory'.

I probably have a copy of the Journal convention issue from that year which would have the winners. What/who are you looking for?

That would make a nice video. Record the presentation and share it.

Here's a closeup of the lunar module.

I came across this old photo and thought I'd post it here. I built the I believe it was AMT's Man in Space collection of missiles. But to more complete the set I got a space station adapter for one of the Saturns and built the Lindberg Space Shuttle as it is the same scale. Note the lunar module at the foot of the Saturn V. It comes with the kit and is pretty nifty all by itself. I know they all look like they are leaning, but that is just a distortion from the camera and a clumsy photographer. Anyway, a flash from the past.

Not sure what you're asking as your question has little to do with the topic title.

What color/shade was the primer? I have found that if I primer with white, I get a bright red but if I primer in a darker color the darker the primer the darker the red gets. Try it on some scrap plastic to see if it makes a difference. Currently I'm using Tamiya rattle can Dull Red and it looks pretty good over a medium grey primer.

Duke, That's the very boxing of the Red Knight that I just used.

Osiris models are on demand 3D printed models of excellent quality. You can see the detail from the photos and they have some unique subjects as well. They do, however, have the striations on some of the flat surfaces from the printing process that would be relatively easy to remove, but a lot of detail would go with them that would need to be replaced so I opted to just leave them alone. To call them "kits" would be an overstatement. This one had only 9 parts, 10 if you count the extra launcher in travel mode. With all that said, here's the Humber Hornet with the first generation anti-tank missile, the Malkara. It was based on the Humber armored truck known as "the pig" which was used extensively during the Irish "Troubles". The Hornet was air dropable using six specially designed parachutes. It was used by airborne units and some armored units. The missile was not well liked as it took a lot of training for the operator to keep it on target, it was big and heavy and it was pretty slow to target which left the operator somewhat exposed. However, it did serve for 15 years before it was superseded by the Swingfire missile mounted on the Ferret armored car. You may notice in a few photos that the launcher is crooked. That's because it is not glued in place because I wanted it removable as you get a entire separate launcher and missiles in the travel position and I wanted to be able to swap them out. I just didn't check to see if it was straight until I saw the photos.

Atlantis has re-issued the Silver and Black knights. That's how I got mine.

The eagle was done with Tamiya Gold rattle can paint with a multi coat heavy watercolor wash that was then wiped down with a damp Q-Tip to take it off the high places. It turned out much better than i thought it would.

Sort of. His armor is supposedly for jousting whereas that of the other three is purely ceremonial. Although how he could ride a horse at full speed, balance and aim that lance with only that little slit to see out of and all the while with that giant bird on his head is beyond me.

This is the last one of the Aurora knights that most people remember and/or had. The fifth is the Golden Knight of Nice which was the only mounted one, was not around long and now goes for stupid money. If I can find one at a reasonable price, I'll get it just to complete the set. Until then, it's the four knights of wherever.

Five posts in three hours about three different projects. You are one busy modeler.

Neither the pilot nor observer were in pressurized areas although the observer's was enclosed. They did have special oxygen systems and wore many layers of clothes. I have no idea why the observer's area was enclosed but not the pilots. As to the Wapiti's use, it served in Iraq and India as a bomber and army cooperation a/c and was also flown by Canada and Australia right up through the beginning of WW II.

The Wallace kit is ancient and its level of detail shows it but its an easy kit to work with so I had at it. The Wallace wsa based on the DH-9 and the Wapiti was based on the Wallace so all three aircraft had many components in common. However, the Wapiti had a Bristol Jupiter engine, mostly seen uncoweled in photos, and a rear gunner's position but the kit comes configured as the aircraft that flew over Mt. Everest with a pressurized rear cockpit so that had to be modified back to a gunner's position. The engine was salvaged from the spares bin as was the prop. The Wapiti was shorter than the Wallace, but I never found the location of that shortening, so I'm afraid that fell to the 'fudge factor". I added the bomb racks under the wings. Please excuse the crew figures as they are rather tragic and I'm not at my best painting them anyway. But, in my display case it looks like a Wapiti.

I'm no specialist in international trade, but I know if you get a package from overseas, it has a customs declaration label on it. So, if an importer doesn't pay the tariff on the item because it has been shipped 'door to door', it may be that you will have to pay the tariff to get your package. Just a guess.

Looks like a wing fold hinge to me. Nice work.

Doesn't seem to be much going on in this thread of the Forum, so here's Atlantis' re-release of the Blue Knight of Milan. As with all these knight kits, there is considerable clean up and checking and re-checking the fit of parts. In this case, very little filler was needed as there were few sink marks and with careful assembly, the seams were minimized. Thiat isn't the kits head. I had one left over from the black knight that I had practiced on and it looked pretty good so I used it instead. However, it looks a bit small.

Try contacting the Atlantis Model Company. They have acquired and re-released quite a few old Revell/Renwal molds. Perhaps they have the mold for that particular kit in the back of a storage area somewhere.

I thought I heard on this morning's news that it wasn't just Hong Kong but rather that the Chinese government has "asked" it's postal service not to process packages to/from the US, but I might have that wrong. If so, Temu is pretty much dead in the water isn't it?

It's done. I was surprised how easily the final assembly went but I put that down to the extensive prep work I did in advance. These kits are not meant to be accurate replicas but rather as sort of "reminders" of when cars actually looked like something other than a lump of dough going down the road. They had real spirit and feel and you could maintain them with an oil can, screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. It ain't perfect, but I like it.

This is a 3D printed model by a company names Osiris. You pick from their 'catalogue' and they custom print each model. Their service was very good and pretty quick especially considering it was an international exchange. There are a few shortcomings. The road wheels are a bit "clunky" looking and there is no detail at all on the inside of the suspension system. This pretty intricate model consists of only two parts, the vehicle and the bridge. As such, it's more an exercise in painting than modeling per se, but I've always wanted a Valentine bridge layer so here it is. It is beautifully made and detailed and was crisp and clean with no striations. I have a Hornet AFV (the missile armed one) from them as well that is next in line.

It's been a while but as anyone who has worked on one of these kits can tell you, they are no "weekend special" and working with gloss and chrome paints necessitates long times between steps to assure the paint is truly "set' and that the finish doesn't get marred. Anyhoo, this is the point I am at. Everything finally got cleaned up, all the metal parts were brushed with a wire wheel, the body halves were put together so they could be painted (which also required some body work at the seams) then everything was primed and now I've gotten the first round of painting done. The body is a metallic deep red and looks pretty nice even at this stage. Trim and detail painting up next.