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Everything posted by nmertes

  1. I've had responses from some folks on modeling facebook pages with the same result, Gil. It looks like Ludwig took the library down. Not sure what happened. Somebody mentioned that scalemates.com has kit instructions. I haven't figured out how to get to that page.
  2. It's been a great site especially for comparing Monogram & Revell instructions of the same kit. The PDF files are downloadable.
  3. I've used Ludwig's Modeler's Library several times over the past few years looking for kit instructions that have come up missing. When I attempted to open it today I got a can't be reached www.cavallar.ch/model took too long to respond error. Have any of you attempted to visit this site lately or know what's happened to it?
  4. Thanks for the info, Gil. I also have spent a lot of time at the museum in Dayton & have plenty of photos of the RF-86. I found the kit on ebay from a seller in Japan but, he wants $98.00 for it. Guess I'll keep it on the back burner for awhile.
  5. In the June 2018 Fine Scale Modeler, Chuck Davis converted an Academy 1/72nd scale F-86E into an RF-86F. Somewhere down the road on my build list is to convert an Eduard (Hasagawa) 1/48th scale F-86F to an recon version. Does anybody know of a conversion kit or plans to do it without spending years in the process?
  6. Taking a long shot. I ordered & (finally) received Kasl Hobbies 1/48th scale RF-5E detail set. The only problem is most of the information is in Chinese. I checked the website shown on the instructions. The website is all in Chinese with no option for an English translation. The paint call outs are for Gunze Mr. Color which I should be able to cross to Model Master & Tamiya and I think I understand the diagrams well enough that I shouldn't have any problems. It would be nice to have a translation of the instructions. Do any of you read Chinese well enough to translate the attached.
  7. Nothing in the world wrong with that system. I'm making my 1st serious attempt at using Eduard PE on both P-51's. I can usually get 1 or 2 small pieces glued in place. Then I have to walk away from it for a couple hours. I usually paint light to dark colors. That way you won't have a problem with darker colors showing through the lighter colors. The only exception to that rule would be to use a white primer before spraying any other colors. That will give you a good base color to build on. Allow plenty of time for the paints to cure before applying any tape. Otherwise you may windup lifting paint. Since the AIM-54's were overall white, you might start with a white primer, add your other colors, & finish with a gloss or semi-gloss clear finish. I like whatever name Johnson & Johnson is calling Future these days (It looks like Pledge Multi-Surface Floor Finish is the current name).
  8. Looking good. I'm in the same boat. I have 2 P-51's on the bench and can only work on them Friday & Saturday.
  9. Welcome to modeling on this side of the pond. Looking forward to seeing some photos of your Skyraider.
  10. Thanks Pete & Richard. I have acetone & will clean the pieces tonight. Tomorrow evening I will hit them with Tamiya white primer.
  11. Continuing work on the Tamiya P-51D which will wind up being an F-6D. I'm having trouble getting enamel to stick to some of the Eduard brass PE pieces. Do any of you have a suggestion on how to get paint to stick to it? Enamel just wipes off even after drying for several hours.
  12. I'm with Mark on the popsicle stick carved to a chisel edge. Another option for the same idea is a wooden coffee stirrer. They're about the same thickness but considerably narrower.
  13. The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry for an hour. Then put a drop of CA on the top section & held it in place for a couple minutes. A question for folks like Gil Hodges or Richard Marmo. How do you remove the stub from PE parts that you've trimmed off the sheet? I've been clipping them off using a small Swiss Army knife scissors then sanding the stubs off with an 800 grit sanding stick. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has a better method. Some of the pieces are extremely small.
  14. Very nice work on a very unusual subject, Ron.
  15. Thanks, GIl. Your answer is what I'm looking for. The instructions show the zinc chromate further down the intake but not the mouth of the intake.
  16. I'm working on a Tamiya P-51D Mustang which will be in Tuskegee Airman markings & an Accurate Miniatures F-6B which will be finished as Little Sir Echo. Does anyone know what color the inside of the intake should be? Neither kit gives a color reference for that area.
  17. Welcome back Phil. Glad you found your way to IPMS & the forums.
  18. Gil Hodges photos of the AM P-51B he posted recently got a fire lit under me to really start working on this kit. The biggest problem I have currently is lack of work space. It's too hot outside to work in the shed. A TV tray will have to suffice until the temperature drops in about 6 months. The PE is the Eduard set for the Tamiya P-51B but, for the most part it works nicely. The seat belts are put together. I'll install the stick & seat after painting the fuselage. No sense in breaking the stick if it's avoidable.
  19. Looking good, Ron. Like the addition of the scorpion decal.
  20. First, thanks for the cockpit/fuselage color info you passed on on facebook. If I may be so presumptuous as to point out an error to the master; at least according to the directions. The landing gear doors on Allison powered Mustangs did not bleed down like those on Merlin powered birds. They had different hydraulic and locking systems that mechanically locked the doors up after each opening cycle to extend or retract the undercarriage. The only time they would be down was if a ground crew member had unlocked them to perform maintenance on something in the wheel wells. The odd part is that the instructions show them in the down position. Looking forward to seeing more of your quarantine builds.
  21. I've had a Weller NE1010NA that I purchased from Amazon 2 years ago along with a set of tips that included a couple very fine screwdriver tips. I've owned a couple Weller's over the years & always found them dependable.
  22. Thanks for the info, Ron. Unfortunately, when I click on the "About" & "Officer Directory & Email", it only shows past officers. There is no email listing for anybody.
  23. Thanks, David. I thought that would be the right person but, I couldn't find a way to contact her directly.
  24. I've managed to move 3 times in the last 6 months which would explain part of the problem but, I haven't received the November/December & January/February issues of the journal. Forwarding requests are apparently being ignored by the post office. How do I get replacement copies?
  25. Check out Mr. Surfacer primer. It comes in several grades both rattle can & bottle. The higher the number, the finer the finish. https://store.spruebrothers.com/searchresults.asp?Search=mr.+surfacer&Submit=
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