Jump to content

nmertes

IPMS/USA Member
  • Content Count

    108
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    4

Everything posted by nmertes

  1. The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry for an hour. Then put a drop of CA on the top section & held it in place for a couple minutes. A question for folks like Gil Hodges or Richard Marmo. How do you remove the stub from PE parts that you've trimmed off the sheet? I've been clipping them off using a small Swiss Army knife scissors then sanding the stubs off with an 800 grit sanding stick. I'm interested in knowing if anybody has a better method. Some of the pieces are extremely small.
  2. Very nice work on a very unusual subject, Ron.
  3. Thanks, GIl. Your answer is what I'm looking for. The instructions show the zinc chromate further down the intake but not the mouth of the intake.
  4. I'm working on a Tamiya P-51D Mustang which will be in Tuskegee Airman markings & an Accurate Miniatures F-6B which will be finished as Little Sir Echo. Does anyone know what color the inside of the intake should be? Neither kit gives a color reference for that area.
  5. nmertes

    Phil S

    Welcome back Phil. Glad you found your way to IPMS & the forums.
  6. Gil Hodges photos of the AM P-51B he posted recently got a fire lit under me to really start working on this kit. The biggest problem I have currently is lack of work space. It's too hot outside to work in the shed. A TV tray will have to suffice until the temperature drops in about 6 months. The PE is the Eduard set for the Tamiya P-51B but, for the most part it works nicely. The seat belts are put together. I'll install the stick & seat after painting the fuselage. No sense in breaking the stick if it's avoidable.
  7. Looking good, Ron. Like the addition of the scorpion decal.
  8. First, thanks for the cockpit/fuselage color info you passed on on facebook. If I may be so presumptuous as to point out an error to the master; at least according to the directions. The landing gear doors on Allison powered Mustangs did not bleed down like those on Merlin powered birds. They had different hydraulic and locking systems that mechanically locked the doors up after each opening cycle to extend or retract the undercarriage. The only time they would be down was if a ground crew member had unlocked them to perform maintenance on something in the wheel wells. The odd part is that the instructions show them in the down position. Looking forward to seeing more of your quarantine builds.
  9. I've had a Weller NE1010NA that I purchased from Amazon 2 years ago along with a set of tips that included a couple very fine screwdriver tips. I've owned a couple Weller's over the years & always found them dependable.
  10. Thanks for the info, Ron. Unfortunately, when I click on the "About" & "Officer Directory & Email", it only shows past officers. There is no email listing for anybody.
  11. Thanks, David. I thought that would be the right person but, I couldn't find a way to contact her directly.
  12. I've managed to move 3 times in the last 6 months which would explain part of the problem but, I haven't received the November/December & January/February issues of the journal. Forwarding requests are apparently being ignored by the post office. How do I get replacement copies?
  13. Check out Mr. Surfacer primer. It comes in several grades both rattle can & bottle. The higher the number, the finer the finish. https://store.spruebrothers.com/searchresults.asp?Search=mr.+surfacer&Submit=
  14. Sounds like an interesting project. I'm not into armor but, you have to start somewhere. Should be a good retirement job if it takes off. Good luck & looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
  15. Congratulations, Mark. Very nice work. You & Ron Bell seem to like Braille Scale.
  16. A couple years ago the Eduard F-8 Crusader kit was shown online as being in stock & I place an order. Got a confirmation email that it would ship soon. A week later I still didn't have a kit in hand but it was still showing online as being in stock. Emailed customer service and received a reply that the kit was no longer available. When I inquired as to why it still showed in stock on the website, I was told the website isn't always correct. Haven't ordered from Squadron since then. Ordered the Hasagawa version from Sprue Brothers along with the Eduard PE included in the Eduard version. Had it in 4 days.
  17. I've used a product called 5 second fix that I got from Amazon. It's a clear cement that is cured by UV light (the opposite end of the pen). Works well & doesn't take near as long to cure as Elmers. I wouldn't use rubber cement. You run the risk of deforming the plastic.
  18. I'm with Gil as far as the best shade of white. I would recommend laying down a couple light coats of flat white as a primer to prevent any color bleed through.
  19. Looking good, Mike. I like the way your battle damage turned out. Very realistic.
  20. Nicely done natural metal finish, Bill. Also very nice job on the painted markings. Until I read your comments with the 1st photo, I would have sworn the yellow/black markings were decals.
  21. Welcome back. Looking forward to seeing your work.
  22. The best advice I can give you is to use a white primer. Almost any gloss white airbrushed in light coats will give you a good finish if you're careful about dust.
  23. Thanks for the comment, Gil. I've seen the rack and it would be rather a rather complicated structure to build in 48th scale. I don't understand why Kitty Hawk didn't bother to make the camera setup more accurate. I did attempt to install the original camera setup in the nose but, the lenses don't lineup with the windows. The model in the D&S has the access panels open. I think part of the reason the builder opened the panels is because of that.
  24. As I posted some time ago, the camera setup in the Kitty Hawk Banshee kit doesn't resemble any aerial camera I ever saw. The mounting rack is a tubular affair with 3 vertical positions & several oblique positions. Attempting to scale it down to 48th scale is beyond my abilities & the tubing is thin enough I suspect it would be almost impossible to replicate. So, since the rack isn't visible once the access panels are closed, I figured it wouldn't make that much difference. Photo #1 is the original setup built as supplied in the kit. Photos #2 & 3 are my solution This is a fairly typical setup for a mapping mission. The cameras are from a CMK resin kit designed for the Tanmodel RF-84 but, they're the right scale and very similar to the cameras the Banshee would have carried. All that's required now is some paint & permanently mounting the cameras.
  25. Bob, I know there are several sources for the decals you're looking for. The only 1 I can think of right at the moment is Mustang Decals. I'll check my sources when I get home from work & see if I have a reference to others. EDIT: It's not Mustang Decals, it's Mustang Hobbies in Rivers Edge, NJ. They have a lot of decals I haven't seen any place else. Here's the link to the 1/72nd scale decal pages (there's 22 pages). You should be able to find something there. Other brands include Speed Hunter & Techmod that aren't sold by the online hobby shops. EDIT AGAIN: I forgot to include the link. http://www.mustang-hobbies.com/category_s/1887.htm
×
×
  • Create New...