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nmertes

IPMS/USA Member
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Everything posted by nmertes

  1. Looking good. I'm in the same boat. I have 2 P-51's on the bench and can only work on them Friday & Saturday.
  2. Welcome to modeling on this side of the pond. Looking forward to seeing some photos of your Skyraider.
  3. Thanks Pete & Richard. I have acetone & will clean the pieces tonight. Tomorrow evening I will hit them with Tamiya white primer.
  4. Continuing work on the Tamiya P-51D which will wind up being an F-6D. I'm having trouble getting enamel to stick to some of the Eduard brass PE pieces. Do any of you have a suggestion on how to get paint to stick to it? Enamel just wipes off even after drying for several hours.
  5. I'm with Mark on the popsicle stick carved to a chisel edge. Another option for the same idea is a wooden coffee stirrer. They're about the same thickness but considerably narrower.
  6. The Accurate Miniatures F-6B that I posted as a WIP sometime ago is almost ready for color so I started on the Tamiya P-51D since it's too hot most of the day to do any airbrushing. I'm using the Eduard PE set that includes the fuselage details. Photo 1 is the left fuselage half. Photo 2 is the right fuselage half. Photo 3 is the instrument panel which includes 5 pieces of PE. Photo 4 is the cockpit floor/battery rack. I've been gluing the PE in place with Ammo by MIG PVA glue except the curved piece on the left side of the cockpit where I used CA. Glued the floor end & let it dry fo
  7. Very nice work on a very unusual subject, Ron.
  8. Thanks, GIl. Your answer is what I'm looking for. The instructions show the zinc chromate further down the intake but not the mouth of the intake.
  9. I'm working on a Tamiya P-51D Mustang which will be in Tuskegee Airman markings & an Accurate Miniatures F-6B which will be finished as Little Sir Echo. Does anyone know what color the inside of the intake should be? Neither kit gives a color reference for that area.
  10. Welcome back Phil. Glad you found your way to IPMS & the forums.
  11. Gil Hodges photos of the AM P-51B he posted recently got a fire lit under me to really start working on this kit. The biggest problem I have currently is lack of work space. It's too hot outside to work in the shed. A TV tray will have to suffice until the temperature drops in about 6 months. The PE is the Eduard set for the Tamiya P-51B but, for the most part it works nicely. The seat belts are put together. I'll install the stick & seat after painting the fuselage. No sense in breaking the stick if it's avoidable.
  12. Looking good, Ron. Like the addition of the scorpion decal.
  13. First, thanks for the cockpit/fuselage color info you passed on on facebook. If I may be so presumptuous as to point out an error to the master; at least according to the directions. The landing gear doors on Allison powered Mustangs did not bleed down like those on Merlin powered birds. They had different hydraulic and locking systems that mechanically locked the doors up after each opening cycle to extend or retract the undercarriage. The only time they would be down was if a ground crew member had unlocked them to perform maintenance on something in the wheel wells. The odd part is th
  14. I've had a Weller NE1010NA that I purchased from Amazon 2 years ago along with a set of tips that included a couple very fine screwdriver tips. I've owned a couple Weller's over the years & always found them dependable.
  15. Thanks for the info, Ron. Unfortunately, when I click on the "About" & "Officer Directory & Email", it only shows past officers. There is no email listing for anybody.
  16. Thanks, David. I thought that would be the right person but, I couldn't find a way to contact her directly.
  17. I've managed to move 3 times in the last 6 months which would explain part of the problem but, I haven't received the November/December & January/February issues of the journal. Forwarding requests are apparently being ignored by the post office. How do I get replacement copies?
  18. Check out Mr. Surfacer primer. It comes in several grades both rattle can & bottle. The higher the number, the finer the finish. https://store.spruebrothers.com/searchresults.asp?Search=mr.+surfacer&Submit=
  19. Sounds like an interesting project. I'm not into armor but, you have to start somewhere. Should be a good retirement job if it takes off. Good luck & looking forward to seeing how it progresses.
  20. Congratulations, Mark. Very nice work. You & Ron Bell seem to like Braille Scale.
  21. A couple years ago the Eduard F-8 Crusader kit was shown online as being in stock & I place an order. Got a confirmation email that it would ship soon. A week later I still didn't have a kit in hand but it was still showing online as being in stock. Emailed customer service and received a reply that the kit was no longer available. When I inquired as to why it still showed in stock on the website, I was told the website isn't always correct. Haven't ordered from Squadron since then. Ordered the Hasagawa version from Sprue Brothers along with the Eduard PE included in the Eduard versi
  22. I've used a product called 5 second fix that I got from Amazon. It's a clear cement that is cured by UV light (the opposite end of the pen). Works well & doesn't take near as long to cure as Elmers. I wouldn't use rubber cement. You run the risk of deforming the plastic.
  23. I'm with Gil as far as the best shade of white. I would recommend laying down a couple light coats of flat white as a primer to prevent any color bleed through.
  24. Looking good, Mike. I like the way your battle damage turned out. Very realistic.
  25. Nicely done natural metal finish, Bill. Also very nice job on the painted markings. Until I read your comments with the 1st photo, I would have sworn the yellow/black markings were decals.
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