Dick Montgomery

Very nice work! By chance I met the gent who owned and operated Accurate Miniatures. He was at the Telford Convention last November and I spent a little time listening to his stories about the company....and, of course, praising the work he had done with his offerings.

You Go Boy!

This is the latest Spitfire to fly off the workbench. Well, perhaps "roll" is a more apt description of the speed of the project. Anyway, its finished and it joins the handful of other Spitfires in the display case. The control surfaces on the horizontal stabs were articulated. The invasion stripes were airbrushed on and with some slight misalignments on the stripes. We've all seen photos of support staff mopping on the paint or using some rather large brushes. I didn't go crazy with the "mistakes" but didn't concern myself with absolute perfection in width and alignment.

I've got a list of items, a mixed bag of aircraft in various scales, a few autos, some armor, a little of everything. PM me with an email address and I can send the list in Excel or PDF, your choice. Shipping is not included so when we talk price that will need to be added into the mix. The list will be changing content about every two weeks as items are sold and other items are added. To give you a preview, here are some of the items on the current list, randomly selected: Horten IV.a German Flying Wing Glider by Planet Models- $10 Packard Twelve (Model 1936) by ICM- $10 Wyvern S.4 by Trumpeter- $15 Supermarine Seafang F32 by Silver Cloud- $40 Martin Baker MB5 by Silver Cloud- $40 Supermarine Spiteful F.14 by Silver Cloud- $40 Sopwith Dolphin by Blue Max- $20 Sa-341D/F Gazelle by Fujimi- $10 TBM-3D Avenger Accu Mini AJ3406B (White Box)= $20 SBD-3 Accu. Mini 3411- $25 Boeing Pan Am Clipper Airfix (No decals)- $2 I haven't added any armor to the list yet but that will take place in the next few days.

Mark and Robin, Thanks for the info! I've actually got some of these publications in my collection. I knew Ros Creed. In fact, when he was writing his book, a copy of which I have and he autographed, he asked if I knew of anyone who might serve as a "model" (no pun intended) for some of the pics in the book. Being a teacher at a local high school I knew many kids that would fit the bill. After getting the parents on board Ros chose his "model" and away they went. At that time Ros was a professional writer, doing articles for motorcycle mags and travel mags. He moved away and I lost touch but I can tell you that he was an outstanding modeler and his models were those featured in his book. Anyway, thanks for the replies. It's much appreciated.

Not videos please.....publications only: Let's start with an airplane (Yep. An airplane.) and if you could recommend only 3 publications to that newbie as an excellent resource to get started with basic modeling, what three publications would you suggest?

Nicely done!

Wow! I am very impressed with the weathering!

Nice! Now all you need is a private Porta-Pottie with clear walls and a top so you can take pics of the flying aircraft while also taking care of biz. Next best upgrade?.....Air conditioning

Congratulations to Rob Booth and the membership of the Tex Hill Chapter - Texas Hill Country Scale Modelers, the newest club to be granted an IPMS Charter.

Many Thanks to the guys at IPMS North Central Texas for another excellent event! I enjoyed the day and was very impressed with the awesome models on the tables!

Thanks! I can use the Kubelwagen pics!

I might need a bigger work-space from now on.

I experience the same problem with yellow and white. You might prime the prop with a gray color prior to the yellow coat and don't be shy about applying several coats of yellow. I've used both enamels and acrylics and have no favorite.

Paint the prop yellow. Using 3M Painter's tape (low tack) mask off the tips. Using tweezers, apply gentle pressure along the tape edge to be sure that it is sealed so as not to allow underspray or wicking of paint. Shoot your black paint on the prop making sure that you avoid any pooling or buildup along the tape edge. In order to get the yellow tips all the same size I use a mechanical pencil to trace the outline of the prop blade on a sheet of paper. The cheat line between the yellow and black is marked on the outline. Each blade is placed over that outline and tape is applied using that cheat line as a guide. Sometimes (most of the time) I get lazy and don't do the template described above. I just cut a strip of the painter's tape to the proper width and then cut sections out of it to mask off the tips. If the basic strip is of equal width its entire length then it follows that each section will be of uniform width. It seems to works for me and I'm an average modeler. I do, however, get very good results using either of the methods I've described. Good luck!

I'm not even voting for my own entry.....

4 Spits in a row with 2 more on the workbench. Auf Wiedersehen! er..... I mean, "Cheerio!"

2nd Czech A.F. aircraft I've built. I got the orientation on the roundels wrong on the 1st one and a Czech modeler jumped to my aid and offered some corrective advice. I got it right, thanks to that person, on this Spitfire.

I just finished this project today. I like ICM kits although sometimes my skill level isn't quite up to the amount of detail included in the kit. The decals had to be replaced...the originals were damaged in a garage flood a few years ago. Thanks to Gator Masks for custom-cutting the Czech A.F. roundels. Lots of fun and a really nice kit!

Big, small, narrow, wide, makes no diff to me. I use 3M Acryl Blue. It is a "fine" grade filler for automotive body shops. It's a light blue color by 3M, thus the name, and can be found at various auto parts stores. I've seen it only in 20 oz tubes and the stock # is 05964. I've purchased two in the last 20 years. That 20 oz tube is big. It isn't cheap but then when you compare the volume of putty you get in the 3M tube to other much smaller and cheaper tubes of putty one can buy from a hobby shop it isn't such a bad deal at all. The putty can be "thinned" with a liquid glue or can be applied straight from the tube. It sands very well and feathers along the edge of the putty plain. Acrylic or Enamel paints both apply well over it and it has yet to crack on any model I've used it on in the last 20 years.

Spit's looking good so far!

Yes, there is. Just contact the National Office Manager, MJ Kinney at mj@ipmsusa.org

One of my acquaintances in high school (late 60's) had a '57 Chevy. In fact, other than the buddy who drove a Camaro, most of the guys I knew back then had a Chevy. I'm sure there were some Ford owners, and a whole herd of VW owners, but the ones I remember were all Chevy owners. Hmm..... I'm still a Chevy owner and have been for years.

It's fine art, baby! Check out the Edvard Munch image here: https://www.google.com/search?q=the+scream+painting+facts&newwindow=1&tbm=isch&imgil=JnrYvkgnDYO6YM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRhtjzaHAARceIumZ5KPap55wpy6cV4FV7aoWwvC2sjcCjtC-zn8Q%253B2808%253B1872%253BQ1ivf10J7_1f0M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fdigitalnomad.nationalgeographic.com%25252F2012%25252F05%25252F21%25252Fscreams%25252F&source=iu&usg=__F_OnVqwCVg9ddmuVec94uMp2CK4%3D&sa=X&ei=n5EwU6LiHMW52AWg6oGIBA&ved=0CEwQ9QEwBA#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=JnrYvkgnDYO6YM%253A%3BQ1ivf10J7_1f0M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fdigitalnomad.nationalgeographic.com%252Ffiles%252F2012%252F05%252FScream_Original_Munch_Museum_Closeup.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fdigitalnomad.nationalgeographic.com%252F2012%252F05%252F21%252Fscreams%252F%3B2808%3B1872

If you didn't catch enough images of the Nov, 2013 trip to the UK and the Telford convention then here's a link to more. Go to the Mushroom Model Publications website at http://www.mmpbooks.biz/mmp/index.php, scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on the "Scale Model World Telford 2013" link in the "Photos" area. And while you're on the MMP website just can look at all of the excellent publications that MMP publishes!