Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


BryanKrueger last won the day on February 1

BryanKrueger had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

55 Excellent

1 Follower

About BryanKrueger

  • Rank
    Plastic Habit

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • FirstName
  • LastName
  • IPMS Number
  • Local Chapter
  • City
  • State
  • Gender
  • Interests

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Looking forward to your build. It is a very interesting and rather large piece of equipment.
  2. The Takom instructions call out a MIG 909 Light Grey Base. Looking at images of the paint bottle, it appears very dark so I don't have a good answer for you but these guys might. You will need to register but worth the effort. https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/world-war-i-1920s-and-1930s-f282066/
  3. BryanKrueger


    Thank you Rodolfo and Bill!
  4. BryanKrueger


    Final details and ready for primer. The busted wheel and spare track stowage are based on ref photos. The damaged headlight is the kit part carefully thinned with a motor tool cutter, softened with liquid cement and dented with a finger nail.
  5. BryanKrueger


    The Tamiya JSU was partially started when I acquired it so assembly was pretty straight forward. Fortunately the road wheel arms were not attached so I was able to pose the tank nose heavy. I had Shapeways print the barrel. The part arrived with more build lines than what I am use to from a Form2 print so a couple of rounds of Tamiya primer and wet sanding were needed to toke care of the build lines. The muzzle brake has a light cast texture added with Mr Surfacer 500. The Tamiya kit came with an old Eduard set for the Dragon JSU. I should have sprung for a proper set as most of the Eduard PE was just wrong or too simplified. I spent two days soldering up the fuel drum holders only to find out they were wrong. Maybe some stowage and damage can hide the errors. I used Voyager set for the fenders and MasterClub tracks. The model is also detailed with Eureka tow cable and an ET Models bucket. I al;so added brass wire for the grab handles and brass tube for the cleaning rods. Still lots to do.
  6. BryanKrueger


    There is a little explanation about the 203 here: http://tankarchives.blogspot.com/2013/09/soviet-heavy-assault-guns.html
  7. BryanKrueger


    This is a what-if build but based on actual documents and plans. The idea comes from a drawing I found in the WOT book on the development of the SU-152. Apparently 152mm wasn't enough and they wanted to jam a 203mm howitzer into the fighting compartment. Crew comfort and ammo stowage with the 152 was bad enough so yeah, cram something bigger in there. This is all well and good but I don't have a Su-152 in the stash but I do have a Tamiya JSU-152. It's partially started kit I received as a gift. I used the drawings found in the WOT book and created the 203mm barrel in SolidWorks. The part is designed to fit the Tamiya JSU-152 kit. This is the layout I sent to Shapeways.
  8. Looking forward to your progress. Great kit.
  9. He looks great! Nice finish.
  10. Nice work. More history on the SU-122i. You can run this link through Google Translate to get more info - https://warspot.ru/7265-shturmovoe-orudie-na-trofeynoy-baze
  11. I'm no expert, but which particular rebuild you represent will affect the color scheme. http://www.tanks-encyclopedia.com/coldwar/Sweden/strv-104.php
  12. Thanks Bill. I've added a few small items like light, horn, and grab rails for infantry. The figure is from MasterClub. it's a nice natural pose that fits well with the tank.
  13. And here is my current progress. I added MasterClub Tracks and lots of MC rivets. I used the Royal Model fender set but it was a bit simplified. I had to add the missing angle iron sections from Albion Metals extrusion. Nothing like buying aftermarket for your aftermarket set. The tow shackles are from Aber. Eduard PE was used for the basics like vents screens and hatch details. Other bits are scratch built. I still need to add some additional details but getting close.
  14. Progress with the casemate assembled and some welds applied. Tracks are just place holders. Model has been detailed with an Eduard PE set. Welds are Miliput epoxy putty.
  • Create New...