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Mike Delano

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Everything posted by Mike Delano

  1. If you have a separate flash (what model number is it?) then you shouldn't have a DOF issue - I use a 60mm Micro (Nikon's euphamism for 'macro') Nikkor for my shots and I usually have it stopped all the way down to f/32 - usually at 1/200 sec - that paired with an SB800 flash with diffuser - with this set up, I don't even really need a tripod, though I do use it anyway. I've never had any real problems with my D80. I guess it'd help to know what lens and flash you're using to start some troubleshooting...
  2. If you're in the reviewer corps, check your email - Dave had the JS-152 on the most recent list of available review items.
  3. I would also recommend a Gary Fong Lighsphere II diffuser - I've had great results with them, especially in weird lighting situations. at about 35.00, they're relatively cheap versus the benefit you get from using them. They can be kind of tricky to keep them on the flash head though.
  4. The funniest part of that blog is that he actually took the time to do a Hitler subtitle video from "Downfall"
  5. What hapenned? I'm familiar with PMMS, but not with any ongoing fueds there may be....
  6. I thought this was an interesting article on the Round 2 website - provides a little bit of insight into the mind of Andrew Probert... http://www.round2models.com/articles/probert-interview
  7. My own experience is with Tamiya Acrylics - for acrylics, Tamiya is all I use and I always have to thin them a little bit If I need to use a brush. Whenever I use them without doing so, If I happen to go back over an already painted area, the paint on the brush will pull a little bit back up from the model surface. I know some people use water, some use Tamiya thinner, and some use 91% isopropyl. In the rare instances I brush acrylics, I have always gotten the best results by loading a little bit of lacquer thinner onto the brush before I load the paint.
  8. Well, what originally started out as a conversion of the PL 1/350 Enterprise A kit to a Refit Era U.S.S. Kelvin has since become a different animal... The Constellation class was first introduced in an episode of Star Trek: The Next Generation. The distinguishing feature of this particular ship was that it had 4 nacelles. This one has always been one of my favorite kit bashed studio models used in the various Star Trek series... I think this conversion will prove to be a bit more challenging than a Kelvin conversion and will require significantly more scratch building - I wish there
  9. It's funny you say that, because this conversion has actually morphed into something completely different.... More details to come in the coming weeks....
  10. Well, after my 1000 scale TOS Kelvin conversion, I decided to take up a slightly more ambitions conversion project - turinging the 1/350 Polar Lights Enterprise A into what a refitted TOS kelvin might have looked like. I've started drawig up a few diagrams on how I'm planning on doing this and have also started some of the conversion process such as removing the nacelle roots from the secondary hull assembly, making modifications to the neck, and I've started building a platform on whhich to build the superstructure and neck above the saucer section. I'm still not exactly sure how I want
  11. Wow, I cannot wait for this! I wonder why nothing was done with the license during the initial run of the reimagined series....
  12. DS Track is great - I wish Dragon would sell more of their DS Track sets separately. And yes - thinner will 'dissolve' the seam lines - I use Ambroid Pro Weld and it works wonders. Just make sure you use it in small amounts as opposed to one liberal stroke of thinner. For 1/72 DS track, you'll probably ant to use a smaller brush (I usually put my Pro Weld in an empty Tamiya Thin Cement bottle I kept - smaller bottle, smaller brush).
  13. John - with the wings out like that, it is around 15 inches from wingtip to wingtip and about 10 or so inches long
  14. Ralph is correct - Tamiya makes a nice lacquer thinner, actually and it works great with their acrylics - but it comes out to be more expensive than Mr. Color Thinner in the end. Their spray cans are also lacquer based as well. As far as I can tell, Tamiya thinner and Isopropyl are nearly identical - whenever I do thin their acrylics with something other than lacquer thinner, I just use 91% isopropyl unless it's a gloss color. In that case, I do use Tamiya thinner as regular isopropyl seems to flatten out the gloss a bit.
  15. Mike Delano

    Stug III Ausf. F

    Are those Friul tracks or the included Magic Track links?
  16. Just curious - what is everyone else working on these days in the Sci Fi realm? Over the break, I was toying around in my head what my next project is going to be - since I now have an extra 1/350 Enterprise A in the closet, I think I am going to begin a 'Refit Era' conversion to a Kelvin type ship - essentially, it answers the question 'What would a TOS style U.S.S. Kelvin look like had it gone through a refit proces similar to the Enterprise?' I never realized until now how perfect this 1/350 kit is for conversions or 'kitbashing' - I'm surprised I haven't seen any conversions done
  17. Thanks Jack - that was my first go at a winter whitewash. I just used thinned down Tamiya flat white. I wish there had been some PE with that kit, but I do realize whole object of those Orange Box releases is a stripped down kit to reduce cost
  18. Thanks guys - believe it or not, I think I'm going to try this project a 3rd time - I'm not entirely happy with it and since I'm a neurotic perfectionist (so the wife says) and I still have about 3 of these 1/1000 polar lights kits in the closet, I'll give it another shot. Additionally, I've created my custom decal sets, so I believe I'll use those this next go round. I wont bore everyone with the drag out build progress this time, though...
  19. I would recommend a program called "VSO Image Resizer" - you can get a fre version of the software (15 or so bucks to buy the full version - which is worth it). It's very useful piece of software. If you pull a significant number of images from the camera, you can resize them all at once. It gives you quite a few options to work with.
  20. Thanks for the input guys, that makes me feel better about this - I can't describre how frustrating it was to get to get into this kit and realize I couldn't complete it as is... I've learned my lesson though, I'll check for all the srues before starting from now on
  21. Just out of curiosity, has anyone had any experiences (negative, positive, or otherwise) with Dragon's 'Dragon Care' customer service? I recently purchased the Panther D Premium Edition kit (Kit No. 6299) and it was missing Parts Tree "B" (I cannot complete the kit because of this missing tree as it contains the sponsons, hatches, and OVE among other items...) I've emailed Dragon through their Dragon Care site with no response and am just wondering if they will replace missing parts trees - or am I just SOL on this one?
  22. I'm finally done with it - got the last dullcoat applied today and ready to go to the shelf....
  23. Well, I'm almost done (Finally!) - I got a little bit more decal work done this afternoon - still a few more decals to go and some touch up work - once that's done, I'll get the bussard collector and deflector dish assembly attached and I'll give it a once over with another coat of Future followed by a dullcoat. I'll be glad once this thing is done...
  24. That was a neat design - has a real organic look to it - reminds me of a jellyfish
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