Schmitz

I had always thought Revell's '71 Hemi Cuda and '70 AAR Cuda kits used the same body and would be a natural for part swapping a '70 Hemi, but I was curious and googled this and found I was way wrong. Apparently the '70 AAR kit was based on the Challenger T/A kit, however the Challenger is a (slightly) longer car with longer wheel base, and the resulting 'Cuda came out with a horribly wrong shape. There are some great articles on the Scale Auto and Model Car sites about doing major surgery using these two kits to get a proper '70. I also found this, claiming Revell has an all new (accurate) kit of a '70 Cuda in the works (includes pix of test shots): http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/general_discussion/f/13/t/111495.aspx Given that the '71 is a pretty old kit with a simple (by today's standards) Hemi, it might be worth waiting for the new kit.

If you're visiting DC, make sure you leave time (like a whole day) for the Udvar-Hazy part of the Air & Space Museum. Its a big multi-hangar sized building near Dulles airport, quite a bit outside of the city.

David, The requirement that models be completely (or mostly) plastic to enter the "IPMS National Contest" was dropped a while ago. As long as you did all the paint and prep work yourself there shouldn't be any problems even if the entire model is metal. That said, local IPMS contests mostly follow the "National" rules, but they are free to tweak the rules however they want, so its always a good idea to check with the local head-judge if you're in doubt. These days almost every show flyer will have an email address listed for questions. Don

I picked up a 1/12 Tamiya Lotus 49 at a local show for a not-too-insane price. It was in an MRC labled box, which means its at least 15 years old. I checked that all the sprues were there, but didn't notice until I got it home that the tires - still sealed in their plastic bubble packaging - were looking like the Wicked Witch at the end of the Oz movie... From doing a quick web search looking for replacements, this seems like a pretty common problem. Needless to say, no one seems to offer replacements. I'm pretty sure I could scratchbuild the basic tire shape, but I'm at a loss for reproducing the tread pattern (which is probably why no resin caster offers replacement parts). Anyone ever figure out how to do this? Don

Jim, I was thinking that since the problem showed up on flat (horizontal) surfaces, maybe the clear puddled there long enough for the solvent to attack the base color - especially if the base wasn't completely cured. After the paint is good and hard (wait a week or two) you may be able to polish out the clear, either with micromesh or Novus. BTW, I just found the directions for Duplicolor enamel on their website; they have a pretty severe recoat window: they recommend you put the next coat on within 1 hour or wait a week for it to fully cure before applying the next coat. Don

Wes, a 305 Chevy is just one of the many variations of the small-block Chevy V8 that has been around since 1955; at 1/25 scale its going to look a lot like every other small block Chevy engine of that era (283, 307, 327, 350). I'd start with an engine from another kit and tweak the details to match your references. Looking at photos on the web, you can't see much of the motor aside from the air cleaner and valve covers (the motor isn't even orange! it was powder blue!! Do those GM guys have no sense of tradition?!?). I'm no expert on what kit has the best small block Chevy motor but there are lots of kits of Chevys out there; if you go to a model show and browse the vendors you can probably find something with a usable engine (and other parts) for cheap. BTW, Cleveland is holding their annual show this weekend - http://home.windstream.net/dchalke/CMS/ - its not much of a drive for you and they usually have a good turn out of vendors. Don

Wes, I think you get 4 for $40 - still kind of pricey...

Wes, I've lived in Pittsburgh all my life and never heard of Pulaski PA. Hope you can make it to the show - let me know if you have any questions. Don

This thread had just the info I was looking for, but since its 3 years old figured I'd ask if there are any recent updates as to the best decal paper, sealer etc? Otherwise I'm sending my order to the Bare Metal people this weekend.... Thanks! Don

I found it on this web page; a lot of other sites don't seem to list anything this small in the K+S line... http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/k+s/k+s15045.htm Hopefully it has more stiffness than the copper you were using - .015 is awfully thin stuff.

K&S makes .016 (and .03) brass rod, should be a lot stronger than copper wire but harder to bend. And you can solder it. Don

Three Rivers IPMS will be holding its annual 1 day show next March. Same location as last year. Here is the the time and contact info: March 23, 9:00AM to 4:00PM A. W. Beattie Career Center 9600 Babcock Boulevard, Allison Park PA 15101 Show Chairman Scott Scariot phone: 412-492-8378 email: trekmanscot@hotmail.com Vendor Chairman Brian Campitella phone: 724-325-4887 email: bac8859@windstream.com Additional details will be published as they're finalized on the club web-page/blog (go to www.tripms.org and navigate to TRICON or BLOG from the menu in the top left). If you can't get in touch with Scott, feel free to PM me here and I'll do my best to answer your questions. Hope to see you there! Don Schmitz

Hi Mike, I think this came up before: what does it mean to "bridge the gap"? I don't think we'll ever get all auto modelers to join IPMS, anymore than we get all the aircraft or armor or SciFi modelers to join. But I do think there are a lot of automotive modelers who would want to join IPMS if they knew what it was truly about (as opposed to the perceptions of IPMS born of long-ago hard feelings). I think what gets people interested in IPMS is the perception that it helps you build better models - both through learning from others and from the focus on contests; what keeps people here are socializing with others who understand their styrene addiction. Contests and shows are our big chance to deliver this message, but for car modelers you first have to get them in the door. The first step is just making car modelers feel welcome. Have categories and rules and theme-awards that make sense to them, and explain the rules and judging philosophy on the show website. Have competent and knowledgeable automotive judges to lead the judging teams. The next step is to show the value of IPMS membership in building quality models. At Regionals/Nationals try to have a big-name automotive modeler give a seminar. If there are at least a few really good car models at a contest, the event will develop a reputation as a serious automotive show and attract more quality work. We need to solve the chicken-or-egg issue, probably by wooing a few top-name auto modelers from within our ranks. Finally is just old-fashioned advertising; we need to promote the auto-specific parts of IPMS to auto modelers. Most car modelers aren't reading the Journal, so event info has to go on the web. Individual chapters need to send show announcements directly to auto-only clubs. We need to figure out how to get the Best Automotive winner at the Nats on the cover of Scale Auto. My opinions... Don

No, in general needles are designed for a specific brand/model airbrush. Also, some airbrushes have "tips" (nozzles) that the needle fits inside that need to match. A quick web search suggests your airbrush is a "Veda", which is Chinese made and according to some web pages a copy of some more well known brand. If you search the web/ebay you can find companies selling parts for the various Veda brushes, or you might be able to take it to a well stocked hobby shop and see if the needles/tips they have for a "name brand" brush are interchangeable.

Rusty, I tried using the "Google Goggles" app on my smart phone - by taking a picture of the image on my laptop. It found the original press release from Raytheon with this image, which identified the vehicle. Its a M977 HEMTT (Heavy Expanded Mobility Tactical Truck). I think the armor guys just call it a hem-itt. A few more google searches turned up a 1/35 Italeri and a 1/72 Academy kit. I think someone in my club brought the 1/35th one to a meeting 15+ years ago, so I'm not sure if the kit is in production or not. Don

Google image search is great for this, although sometimes you have to be creative with the search; I tried "2010 camaro exhaust systems" and found this page with a pretty good pic: http://www.prlog.org/11376537-new-agency-power-2010-chevrolet-camaro-ss-exhaust-system-with-pipe.html BTW, Tim got it right (shades of black) although there are a few heat shields and such that should be silver. Don

At the very bottom of this page: http://www.ipms2012.org/FAQ/faq.html Says its $5 per person per day, or $10 for a family admission (2 adults + minor children). Don

Mark, I'm one of those guys that can never find the ketchup in a crowded refrigerator, so take this with a grain a of salt... The first time I looked I agreed with you - no barrel. Jim's observation that this photo is not straight on (although it looks like it is) got me to look a second time. When I zoomed in big-time, I see what might be a barrel - it is lined up exactly with the bottom of the truck way off in the distance and might just be the dirt under the truck - except there seems to be something blocking a bit of the wheel too. If you account for the Priest being turned a bit away from the camera, the blur at the bottom of the truck seems to be about the right length and place for the barrel. Don

Have you ever seen the movie Fan Boys? It includes a fight between groups of Star Trek and Star Wars fans. The screenplay was written by a SciFi fan who gets all the details right. Definitely worth a rental! Don

At that scale you probably don't have to do a lot. On the monogram kit I just used a sanding stick to remove the big crash-pads from the dash; I sanded through in places that required some filler but if you have a solid resin part to start with you probably don't have to worry about that. The instrument panel is just a flat plate that replaced the stock speedo-cluster; cut one one out of thin styrene, paint semi-gloss black and add gauge decals before you glue it on. The rollbar is about as basic as it gets and pretty small diameter; for 1/43 I think I'd make it out of 1/16 brass rod and solder on the diagonal braces before gluing it into the model (make all the pieces a little extra long, solder together, then trim to fit). If there are any details on the inner door panels just sand them smooth. I doubt you'd notice much else. Good luck! Don

Eric, Have you tried Google image search? Some people think it just shows the images on the web pages a regular Google search would return, but it actually does a much better job. I just typed in "gt350r interior" and got a few decent pix, including a couple of a build of the Monogram kit. Another good source is a book in the "Motorbooks Muscle Car Color History" series called just "Shelby Mustang" by Tim Corcoran. Its available from Amazon at a not too ridiculous price. I've got this book and can try to scan a picture or two if you don't find it anywhere else. I'm guessing you're starting with the Monogram GT350R kit - it has a lot of parts you'd have a hard time scratchbuilding (the back window and front air dam in particular). As far as the interior, the things I remember are: the big sculpted "crash pad" on the dash was removed; the dash was flat on top (just like a Falcon dash). block out plate for the heater and radio. glove box door removed. instrument cluster was replaced with a flat plate with 6 gauges (2 big ones in the center, 2 smaller ones on each end). the upholstered door panels were replaced with textured aluminum panels, with no window winders. the pivot-out front vent windows (and their bulky chrome frames) were replaced with a fixed plexiglass window and a simple aluminum frame - the side windows were plexiglass with pull up straps. the roll bar was a simple hoop behind the front seats with two diagonals from the top-bar to the floor where the back seat should have been. Today, GT350s running in vintage races have full cages. I think the Monogram kits gets this right. The stock front seats were removed and replaced with a single racing seat for the driver; IIRC there was a mounting-bracket/brace of some kind visible where the passenger seat should have been. Other details: the battery was in the trunk, so you should remove the molded battery under the hood of the Monogram kit, and the body work where the rear bumper should be needs some tweaking to hide a seam and better match the real thing. I think that was about it... Hope you get further with yours than I did! Don

David, the 1/16 MPC/AMT kit is a garden variety 427 Cobra; the original request was for a kit of a Cobra Daytona. The Daytona was an early Cobra with custom bodywork developed for racing at LeMans. The difference in body work is well beyond simple scratch building. You can see an image here: https://encrypted-tb...YxwEoOZ9nnL_9Pe Gunze did one long ago in 1/24 that is rare as hen's teeth, and there have been a few cottage industry kits. BTW, the MPC kit is a pretty nice kit and has been reissued fairly regularly over the years - I'm sure you can find one on ebay or at vendor tables if you look a bit. Don

Pete, There is an article in the bylaws that reads: Chapter Charters may be granted to areas, not individuals, and will be as allowed by the Director of Local Chapters with the approval of the Executive Board. Chapter names will be approved by the Director of Local Chapters. I'm not sure exactly how this is interpreted; I think the idea is that the Pittsburgh chapter doesn't belong to the president of the club or whoever filed the paperwork - if they leave the chapter the charter doesn't go with them. I've heard rumors that IPMS doesn't like to grant two chapters in the same place because a chapter had some sort of civil war and split in two, but there are certainly lots of examples of chapters being located a few miles apart. Pete, I don't think I explained myself well - although I think your reaction to the "IPMS ego" demonstrates the fact that there are still lots of hard feelings. What I was getting at is that a lot of auto-modelers never knowingly see what IPMS modelers are doing. IPMS members who enter car-only shows tend to keep a low profile because there is a real backlash against IPMS members. The many auto-modelers who never attend an IPMS event never see what is going on in the aircraft, armor, sci-fi etc. sides of the hobby. I wasn't suggesting that IPMS members go into a car-only contest like the "pros from dover" and tell car-modelers what to do and expect to win all the awards, but rather that somehow IPMS needs to have a visible presence at car-only shows so that car-modelers know you can be a car-modeler in IPMS and maybe there are some things to learn from the other guys. But frankly I'm not sure anyone wants the stress of doing that! Don

I think we have to start with a more fundamental question: what outcome are we trying to achieve? It is unrealistic to assume IPMS will convince auto modelers to fold up their clubs and join their local IPMS chapter. I suspect there would be a lot of support for creating a parallel set of chapters: one auto-only, one everything else, but I think this would be an incredibly bad idea as it would alienate all of the existing IPMS members who have tried for years to make IPMS more welcoming and attractive to auto-modelers; I don't think IPMS should go out of its way to make more enemies. Probably the best situation we can hope for would be a more respectful relationship between the two camps. Auto modelers should feel welcome at IPMS shows and see them as high-quality events. Auto modelers should feel welcome at IPMS chapter meetings and believe they can learn something by becoming a member. Auto modelers should see the IPMS Nats as a prestigious event where the "best-of-the-best" auto-modelers can be found. Hopefully this will result in more auto-modelers supporting IPMS events at all levels and even become members. Here are a few specific steps in this direction: Better coordination of contests between traditional IPMS chapter events and auto-only events, even if the auto-only events are non-IPMS. Imagine we opened up the IPMS event calendar to non-IPMS events and made it the ultimate listing of model shows. This would let non-IPMS events avoid conflicts with IPMS events (and vice-versa). More auto-only clubs become IPMS chapters. I think this is already happening purely for insurance purposes, but it would be nice if there were less mercenary incentives. Might mean relaxing restrictions on how close chapters can be, but I think there are already lots of exceptions. Make IPMS contests at all levels more attractive to auto-modelers. A couple of things to do: Tweak the categories and judging guidelines as needed, and make them readily available to both IPMS chapters and to auto-modelers. Include detailed instructions to help aircraft/armor/etc modelers know what to do if pressed into service as automotive judges. Compile marketing info to help traditional IPMS chapters promote their events to auto-modelers: suggested magazines and websites to advertise in, mailing lists of auto-only clubs, auto-modelers willing to do seminars, etc. [*]Make IPMS Nationals more prestigious to auto-modelers. Coverage in auto-modeling magazines. Big-name seminars. Basic marketing: magazine articles, endorsements, ads, etc. [*]Fuzzier goal: show auto-modelers that IPMS membership can help you build better auto-motive models. Maybe form a team of "IPMS Ambassadors" who are a) auto-modelers, B) consistent contest winners, c) willing to wear a snazzy IPMS USA Auto Modeler shirt to various auto shows and evangelize the organization. Don

David, The conflicts between IPMS and Car Modelers were often big and messy, and are still well remembered (and mis-remembered) by lots of folks who were there and happily retell the stories of 30+ years ago to every new guy in the door. If we want to wait another 30 years, maybe IPMS can just "move on". If IPMS wants to do something now, my opinion is that there has to be some sort of gesture made to show IPMS takes this seriously. It doesn't have to be a groveling apology. If the IPMS President made a public statement to the effect that "a lot of dumb things happened while most of us were still in grade school, but now its time for us all to pull together for the good of the hobby" I think that could go a long way to "mending fences". And then, as you say, IPMS needs to follow through and actually listen and change things - something else they are not especially good at. Until there is a commitment from the officers and NCC to do something, everything else (including this conversation) is just lip-service. Don