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Use spit to smooth epoxy?


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I stumbled upon this tip in the latest issue of MIS magazine. The author of a build article recommended using 5-minute epoxy to attach canopies (mind you, he used just a wee amount of the stuff) and used a saliva-moistened finger to smooth out the join between the fuselage and the canopy. While I don't plan to use anything other than PVA glue for this task, I wondered if anyone has ever tried using spit to smooth epoxy successfully? I'm afraid to try it myself (why make a mess if someone else has done it before?), but this might be a great technique for a future build calling for the strength of the epoxy bond and the need for a smooth transition.

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I have heard that you can use a moistened finger (actually, I heard a "finger dipped in water") to smooth epoxy PUTTY (seems like I heard this specifically about Apoxie Sculpt)...not sure about the regular five minute epoxy glue. I'm thinking, after vainly trying to scrape that stuff from my fingers when I've accidently gotten it on them, that this idea might not work all that well.

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I've used the wet finger trick to smooth various one- and two-part sealants and epoxies for years. Everyone knows (or should know) that a wet finger smooths out a bead of latex caulk, or spackle. It also works for silicone caulk, and it certianly works for Milliput and Apoxie Sculpt. Anyone who has worked in the aviation industry knows about Pro-Seal, aka PRC-890, 1422 B-1/2, 1425 A-2, etc. They are a family of black or brownish-blackish polysulfate-type two-part sealants used to seal fuel tanks, antennas, feed-through connectors, and other areas where the pressure vessel is penetrated, as well as faying surfaces of sheet metal patches and antenna doublers (these are generally "shot wet", you smear this junk on the patch/doubler and the skin and rivet it in place while the sealant is wet), and to seal the edges of pneumatic de-ice boots. A 50-50 mix of Denatured Alcohol and distilled water is the preferred solution to use to wet the bead of Pro-Seal when smoothing it.

 

I'd say that it probably does work--you might want to test it before you commit to a masterpiece model....

 

Ralph

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Since I've yet to create a masterpiece model, I guess it's time to give it a try. Will let you all know how things turn out...

 

I'd say that it probably does work--you might want to test it before you commit to a masterpiece model....

 

Ralph

 

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The author of a build article recommended using 5-minute epoxy to attach canopies (mind you, he used just a wee amount of the stuff) and used a saliva-moistened finger to smooth out the join between the fuselage and the canopy.

 

I haven't seen the spit trick, but have seen 5 min epoxy used as a filler on wing-roots and similar big gaps: goop the epoxy on and wait for it to just start to stiffen, then smooth it out and clean up the excess with q-tips dipped in isopropal alcohol. Plan on using a few q-tips - throw them away once they get covered with epoxy.

 

I usually get a big sticky mess when trying to use 5min epoxy for anything, but the alcohol does magic.

 

Don

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OK, since no one else asked.....how does it taste? :smiley22:

 

SB :smiley16:

 

Well, seeing as I don't actually use spit (I use water), I can't say. Perhaps we should start another thread along the lines of "How does putty dust taste?" or "Do you eat your fill of filler?".... :smiley24:

 

R :smiley17:

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I've found Bondo has a nice light flavor. Best served with a fine Chardonnay. If you add a little garlic and chives it brings the flavor out more, but tends to be a bit stronger on the pallet.

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The topic and the replies remind me of the movie "Space Jam" when they spit shine the gym! Really gross!!!!

 

 

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I think we're officially off topic here.

 

Just tried it last night and found it works...but only after the glue has set a bit....still very messy (could be my lack of skills..). I'll continue to use Apoxy.

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