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kptucker

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kptucker last won the day on September 3 2015

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About kptucker

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    Plastic Habit

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  • FirstName
    Kevin
  • LastName
    Tucker
  • IPMS Number
    35926
  • City
    Rockland
  • State
    United States
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  1. Hey Tim, I know you are a pretty savvy car guy but I think your only option is the Ron Capps' NAPA funny car decals from Slixx. I checked through my stash but the only NAPA decals I could find were from Jeff Burton's Exide Taurus and those decals are white (due to the paint scheme). You had to pick a rare paint scheme, didn't you...
  2. Gil is thinking of Detail Master. Check their site to see if this is what you are looking for: http://www.detailmaster.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=e1572996714a41f0a774f8ad72eec9f8&Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=detailmaster&Category_Code=DM-DW Scale Motorsport also has a selection of wire: http://store.scalemotorsport.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=SM&Category_Code=9 And, I second Don on the wire sold by Radio Shack.
  3. Thanks Chris, didn't check the wheel count. And, Kinetic is producing the RG-33L MRAP so there will be one sometime this year.
  4. I believe that Panda Models produces the Cougar MRAP. Both Panda and Kinetic produce the M-ATV. The RG-31 is produced by Kinetic. Nothing on the RG-33 yet. Bronco Models produced the Buffalo (2004-2006) but you'd probably need a resin update set to make the H version. If any company was going to produce a Husky VMMD, it would be Meng Models. You might poke around to see what was announced at the Nuremberg Toy Fair. Hope this helps...
  5. I concur... a 1/12th scale Cobra Daytona would be outstanding. A true masterpiece. Probably a 'break the bank' kit but it would be worth it.
  6. Thanks for the reply Pete. I've dealt with HLJ for many years. I guess I'm just having difficulty rectifying the immense cost difference but that is for another forum. I will say that HLJ, as of last evening, only had 12 total car kits in stock (across 1/20 and 1/24) so many modellers must be taking advantage of the JPY currency devaluation. I know that Hiroboy hasn't even listed the kit yet. Their other Tamiya kit prices match what most LHS and US mail order sites sell Tamiya kits for. Unrelated: I've seen your past 1/12th scale builds. Any plans on purchasing one of those Model Factory Hiro 1/12th scale 956 monsters? Take care...
  7. It will be interesting to see if that price holds for you Pete. Tamiya USA has the kit listed @ $71.00 and Tower Hobbies is selling it just north of $50.00. I know that the exchange rate (USDJPY) has been a little hairy lately but I find it hard to believe that the price listed by HLJ is correct. If it holds, great score for you...
  8. Joe, In the figure painting community, Bill Horan is considered the master of enamels. Horan uses Humbrol and has developed his own glazing technique. Very few have been able to replicate it... Horan is also a remarkable figure sculptor working almost exclusively in 54mm size. This thread on Planet Figure may be of some help to you: http://www.planetfigure.com/threads/question-on-bill-horan-painting-steps.61793/ One artist who is a master of oil and acrylic is Danilo Cartacci. Here is the link to the english version of his website: http://www.labottegadelcartacci.it/index.php?lang=english Danilo's work is very inspirational. His book is a wealth of information and includes many step-by-step processes. There are many figure shows across the country that normally include painting seminars. Depending on your location, there may be one close to you. Good luck...
  9. Great start Gary. I can see the chassis tubing you've modified. It's good to have access to the car's builder. The seat is the Kirkey seat from Dirt Modeler, is it not? Good luck with the build...
  10. Welcome back to the hobby... You may want to consider this product for covering large areas that need to be chrome. http://alclad2.com/ BMF is best to use on window molding or other smaller areas. Not saying that you can't use BMF on a bumper, Alclad might be the better choice. You'll need to remove the chrome plating first. You can use products like Castrol Super Clean or Wesley's Bleach White. Soak the product until it removes the chrome and the undercoating and leaves only the bare plastic. Then wash with warm, soapy water and air dry. Good luck and I'm sure others may chime in...
  11. This should give you a start... https://store.spruebrothers.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=7&search=pigments&show=100&page=1&brand=MiG%20Productions As an FYI... There will be three different variations of these products. Mig Pigments was first. AK Interactive is second. Now Mig himself has apparently launched a line called "Ammo of Mig" which is suppose to be his company/brand and under his control. http://www.migjimenez.com/en/ Hope this helps... Kevin
  12. Don's points are good. I'd like to add a few more, and possibly an idea or two that the OP didn't request in his original post. The one kit(s) that has more than a few modelers abuzz is the Ford Pickup trucks that will be released by Moebius this year. http://www.clubmoebius.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1208 There will reportedly be five versions (eventually) with the Model King distributing one of the five. The test shots look really good. Obviously any "brick and mortar" store is going to have a tough go against the interweb. I would highly suggest you consider offering building classes. The store you work for has to offer a service you can't receive on the internet: hands-on training. Offer it for adults and especially kids. There has to be a few experienced modelers in your area. Approach them and see if they would be interested in a offering a Saturday seminar. The most important push would be getting the kids interested. Unfortunately, the majority of the car kits being released only appeal to those 35 and up in age. Affordable current kits are few and far between. I don't know of many kids that want to build a '36 Ford. I believe the kids would identify more with the cars they might race in the video games like Gran Turismo, etc. On the subject of detailing parts: you are really going to have a tough go on that one as most of those are "cottage businesses" and they have their own web sales. Most won't give you that great of a discount to make it worthwhile to bring their product in. Scratchbuilding supplies, weathering pigments, washes and various paints would be a solid choice. Maybe an airbrushing seminar would be good too. Big difference between finishing a Sherman Tank and a 2013 Mustang. I hope your shop can make a go of it... Kevin
  13. Hey Don, Don't forget that there is suppose to be 'texture' on the 6 cylinder block. I know as modelers we want everything to be smooth as glass but the Jaguar iron block had a texture and the racing aluminum Jag blocks were sand cast then polished. Example of a restored Jag block and you can see the texture: http://www.mckennasgarage.com/xke/jag36.htm Mold lines are present on many cast automotive parts, the modelers are the ones who feel the need to smooth them out. I know that the costs may be prohibitive to many, but I use the 3M sanding sponges in four of the five offered grits. Not an area you can't get to with these...
  14. Chris, I appreciate the additional info. I have read about the standard powder cleaners like Ajax or Comet. Some swear by them, others say they don't do enough. I guess it comes down to the caster. I thought by now things would be a little more streamlined in regard to the products used in producing resin parts and the stability/consistency of the release agents. Thanks.
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