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Everything posted by JMorgan

  1. Sounds interesting. Really excited to read this.
  2. "When it comes to finding a specific color paint, you will have trouble." I ran into the same thing. Totally frustrated me. I like Model Master paints. I hope they stay around for a long while.
  3. Another consideration is cleanup. I use Model Master Acryl most of the time. I really like the ability to clean up with just water. After I'm done spraying, I run water through the airbrush. Then, I take the airbrush and color cups over to the sink and clean them up with water. Works great. If the paint begins to dry though, clean up can be a bit more challenging. Also, Testors states that the Acryl line can be airbrushed without additional thinning. Generally I find this to be true, but sometimes a little Acryl thinner helps (and I mean 'a little'). Overall, I really like the Acryl line. But, the model needs to be really clean before painting and even then, the adhesion of the paint can be troublesome.
  4. That is pretty awesome looking. On a side note, I have a friend named Braniff. He was actually named after the airline. No joke.... -Jesse
  5. I might have an interesting perspective on this. By trade, I'm a Cartographer which means I make maps. Determining a balance between accuracy and visual appeal is extremely important in my profession. Sometimes, our maps have to be extremely accurate. Other times, it's more about visual appeal to entice a reader. For instance, compare a topographic map versus a map on a brochure. So, when it comes to modeling, I think it depends on audience, the same as map making. If I'm making a ship model that will be shown to other ship modelers, I'll strive for accuracy. If the model will be seen by the general public, I go for visual appeal. With that being said, I would never paint a model some crazy color or add the wrong details. -Jesse
  6. That model looks nice. Brings back memories of a simplier time. I love that the sticker on the box says $1.50. -Jesse
  7. I like it. For such as small scale, the model looks great. Nice job. -Jesse
  8. You can also try Model Train Stuff: http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/ They have a huge inventory and are the largest train hobby store here in Maryland. Plus, they have great prices. I've ordered from them a few times. Great service. -Jesse
  9. Well, what I thought would happen, happened. The decals are trash. I tried to put the eyes on yesterday. As soon as I lifted the decal out of the water, this brownish, gooing stuff came off. I think it was the adhesive. The decal curled up and won't lay down on the model. I started to become dejected but....I thought I would try a search on "V.I.N.Cent Decals". Sure enough, I found a company that made a replacement set. The company is Federation Models. The decal set was $12. Not too bad. I ordered them yesterday and USPS says they should be here by Friday. Perfect. So, I stripped down his head using Purple Power and repainted it. I'll let you know how the decals work when I get the new set. -Jesse
  10. Ok, the window thing didn't work this time. No big deal though. I'm a little hestitate about trying anything else though. I mean, it's not like I can replace the decals if I screw up. That clear dome surely it's sitting straight. I think it's the tabs around the bottom. I'm going to file them off and see what happens. I know the top of his head is flat. In fact, I had to add some shims and do a lot of sanding, but I did get his head flat. On last thing, the clear parts are all foggy. I dipped the dome into a cup a Future and let it dry overnight. That worked great; 100% improvement. If I remember, I'll do a "Before and After" picture on the next clear part. -Jesse
  11. Ok guys. I reworked the vents and I think they turned out much better. I'm hoping to put the decals on this week and finish off his head. The decals have yellowed a little (I think) so I have them up in a window exposed to sunlight. I did this once before on another model and it worked great. Thanks, Jesse
  12. Thanks, Mark. Yeah, I thought about the spraying gloss coat over the decals before using them. I saw another build regarding the same model and the builder said the decals were fine. Unfortunately, the mesh didn't work and looked lousy when painted. I've decided to completely rebuild the area using strip styrene and some mesh from an old tank model. I'll post pictures before painting. I think it will look a lot better than the above pictures. -Jesse
  13. Ok guys. I finally got moving on this kit. So far, I've de-chromed the chrome pieces I'll be using by soaking them in Purple Power. Next, I started putting the head together. That's were I noticed "fit" will be an issue. It's normal in these old kits so I'm not complaining. One issue I noticed was how the head went together. There is supposed be some mesh vents on each side. Well, the seam to glue the head piece together goes right through the vents. Impossible to clean up. I decided to open the vents and replace them with some mesh. The mesh is a little too large and I probably should of set it at angle. Oh well. See the picture: The next thing I noticed was the base is very warped. I don't think trying to heat and reshape it will work. I do want to use the base though since it helps add to that '70s look. I think I'll try making a false edge around the bottom to hide that gap. If you look at the picture below, you'll see the shadow around the base: My next concern is the decals. I don't know if they'll hold up or crack to pieces once they hit the water. I scanned in the decals just in case they are ruined. Hopefully, my next post will show the head painted up with eye decals in place. We shall see.... -Jesse
  14. Oh, I hear ya. I was part of the "Early Bird Campaign" from Star Wars in 1977. I've seen Maximillion on Ebay a few times. I've seen the Cygnus only once. I heard they made a couple test shots of STAR. I bet those are hard to come by.
  15. Hello all, I've begun work on my vintage, 1979 model of V.I.N.Cent from the movie "The Black Hole". I built this kit back in 1979 when the movie came out. I was 7 at the time. I've decided to build it OOB to replicate how I built it way back. Of course, I'll clean up seams, paint, etc. Here are a couple of starter pictures: -Jesse
  16. Just stumbled across this on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-258-20-000-Leagues-Under-Sea-NAUTILUS-Submarine-/390346953187?_trksid=p4340.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D15%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2957012987722850550 Pretty interesting. The description says: This resin and plastic kit of the Nautilus is based upon an unissued Airfix kit that never made it to market. The price is crazy though. -Jesse
  17. I use Xuron 440 PET High Precision Scissor Works great for me and I've never had a PE piece go flying. Check it out here: http://www.xuron.com/consumer/shears.htm -Jesse
  18. I agree with Dick. I use Polly Scale, Tamiya and Model Master Acryl acrylics. I don't prime but I do spend extra time cleaning the model before painting. I find the best way to prepare a model for acrylic painting is to use PollyScale Platic Prep. For masking, I use either Tamiya's masking tape or drafting tape. The low tack helps avoid paint lifting. -Jesse
  19. That AFV LVT looks nice. I'm glad it comes with an interior. I built Italeri's LVT-4 and used Verlinden's interior. That was pain getting that in there. It's interesting that AFV is going with the multipart hull like Italeri did. I remember Italeri's hull being troublesome to put together. -Jesse
  20. I usually use Tamiya Liquid Primer for filling small gaps and texturing armor. I thin it and clean my brushes with lacquer thinner. I've only sprayed it once and that was to form anti-skid on a tank. If I need a primer, I decant Tamiya's Grey Surface Primer from the spray can and use that. -Jesse
  21. Nice work. That was my first tank after 10 years. Your model brings back memories of building it.
  22. I do both. I will usually build one model all decked-out with PE. The next model is OOB. I like what PE can do for a model, but I can't do every model with PE. I'd go nuts. So every other model is full blown PE.
  23. Please understand, I'm not trying to be critical, but how can someone start a model and not finish it after 10+ years. I generally only work on two models at a time. One model is in the finishing/painting/waiting stage; the other is in the construction stage. I couldn't image having a model sitting around for years waiting to get finished. Then again, I'm the type of person that once I start reading a book, I have to finish it... -Jesse
  24. Almost done Tamiya's M26/M15 Dragon Wagon. Man, that's a big model. Just started on Dragon's Late Panther G to put on the trailer. Together, the two kits after well over a thousand parts. -Jesse
  25. Looks great, Mark. I just got Dragons Panther G with the MagicTrak. It will be my first German armor (except the Leopold). I wasn't sure which Panther to get. One kit had the DS tracks, the other kit had the MagicTrak. The MagicTrak looked easier but I'll guess I'll find out. Hopefully, they're better than link and length tracks. Anyway, beautiful model. I really like it. -Jesse
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