tom

Micro -mark has strainers for small model paint bottles. Go to there website and you can get a free catalogue.

I am 65yrs old and started modeling when I was eight. i started with Aurora, Lindburg, Hawk and such. As an adult and 1/72 became the scale to build I started to get and build Airfix, Matchbox and Frog kits. I still have a bunch of them unbuilt in my stash, probably an few hundred kits. I.ve gotten into building again. Takes me back to good old days when I wasn't worried about a lot of details, of course back then there was not a lot of reference material like thee is now. Once you put the finished model in yourdisplay case no one sees tne details in the cockplit and such anyway. Tom

Tim, The one good color photo i have show a engine heating unit and it does look to be panzer gray. Tom

I have never read anything definitive on what the color of luftwaffe field equipment, ( carts, engine heaters, aircraft dollys, etc.) was. The same as Wehrmact vehicles, panzer grey. If so did it change to dunkel gelg (dark kyellow) when vehicles did? Some color photos I have seen they look like the dark panzer grey, but we all know old color photos and film type can be deceiving.

If you need more weight in a twin engine aircraft you can add it to the engine nacelles.

I bought my CO2 tank and regulator from a welding supply shop. When i went there I took my air hose from airbrush with me and fitted and adaptor for it at no extra cost. The whole setup cost me about $270 and a refill for the tank when I do an exchange is $8.00. When i thin my paints I also do not measure but it by letting it run down side. You should never add thinner to the paint in the bottle it comes in as it can sometimes cause it to go bad. I mix mine in a shot glass as it is easier to clean because of the courved bottom and never put unsed paint you have thinned paint back into bottle.

I have bottle I have mixed with liquid cement and pieces of plastc melsted in to thin but not runny consistancey. It works great in small gaps. You have let it se for a few days to throughly dry. It bonds the pieces together as one piece. Also if you need to scribe over it, it doesn't chip like putty can. I have been doing this for over 30 years.

I have been airbrushing with enamels for over 30 years and have always used laquer thinner for a thorough cleaning and have never had a problem.

A moisture trap is not necessary for a CO2 tank but a regulator is. I have been using a CO2 tank now for about 10yrs. I have four Paasche airbrushes and am very happy with them.

I have airbrushed enamels over acrylics with no problems. First you have to let the acrylic paint dry for about a week to make sure it is dry alway through. When you airbrush the enamel paint you need to put it on very light in many coats until you get a good cover over the other paint.

My local hobby shop can't get Tenex 7R in stock. A short while back it was off the shelves for about 3 months and then was back. Have they stopped producing it?

I have four Paasche airbrushes and i use three of them. I have dble action siphon feed model that i use for priming and base color. I use my Dble action garvity feed for cameoflage. I used it once to paint the cameoflage on a 10mm Sdkfz 234 Puma just to see if I could do it. I have used it to paint hundreds of 15mm armored vehicles for other people for gaming purposes. I use my H model single action to applly Future. I use it for that alone as a couple of times useing one of the dble action airbrushes for Futute I had problems shich I believe was due contamination of the Future from residual paint and or thinner in the brush. The Paasche model H was my first airbrush and I used that for a number of years. I have been airbrushing models now for 30 some years and have always been happy with Pasche.

Carroll, I get mine at a tobacco outlet store where I buy my tobacco. The local Walgreens has the bristle type. You can also get them on Ebay. There you can get them in bunchs of about 1,000. On Ebay just go to tobacciana, pipes and then type in cleaners.

Pipe cleaners will leave fibers whether they are craft or for the pipe. The only differance between the two is the craaft ones are colored. I have been smoking a pipe for 46 years so I am very familiar with pipe cleaners. Do not use the thick pipe cleaners as they leave a lot of fibers, get the the thinner ones. If want ones that do a good scrubbing get the bristle ones.

The kettenlrad was designed to tow light artillay like the short barreled 7.5cm.