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ipmsusa2

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Everything posted by ipmsusa2

  1. Today I stumbled across a post on the Oldie & Goldie Scale Models Facebook Group. Someone had posted an alleged Product Bulletin that was addressed to all Testors Distributors. Subject was the end of an era. If you want to look at the Bulletin yourself, go to Facebook and search for Oldie And Goldie Scale Models. Some are claiming that it is fake news and others don't know. BUT at least one person stated that what they did know...from a separate source...was that Rustoleum was definitely dropping Aztek Airbrushes along with the International and Military colors. Since the above info was impossible to verify, I went to Rustoleum's Testors website to see what, if anything, had changed. Here's what I've discovered: 1. Aztek Airbrushes are no longer listed. 2. There are 20 One Coat Lacquer Spray colors (19 colors and Spray Wet Look Clear 3. Dullcote & Glosscote are still available in both spray and bottle. 4. The entire Metalizer line is gone, including Metalizer Sealer and Thinner. 5. Acryl acrylic is still available as follows....but the number of colors is diminishing: Flat: 34 colors + clear flat Gloss: 18 colors + clear gloss Semi-Gloss: 10 colors 6. Model Master enamels are still available...kinda, sorta...as shown below: Auto enamels: Gloss: 29 colors Military enamels: Flat: 27 colors Gloss: 2 colors Semi-Gloss: 1 color Figure enamels: Flat: 5 colors Semi-Gloss: 3 colors Stain: 2 shades International Military: WW-II US & United Kingdom: Flat: 4 colors Gloss: 1 color US Military: Flat: 2 colors Gloss: 2 colors Semi-Gloss: 3 colors WW-II German Luftwaffe - RLM & Panzer : Flat: 2 colors Semi-Gloss: 8 colors WW-II Italian/Japanese/Russian: Flat: 2 colors Semi-Gloss; 1 color Modern Armor Gulf War/Nato/Russia: Flat: 1 color Semi-Gloss: 1 color Since I started writing this post, all comments relative to the presumed Product Bulletin have been removed. I wouldn't be surprised if the Bulletin image disappears before long, especially if it is fictitious. Still, the list I have provided is taken direct from the Rustoleum/Testors website...essentially straight from the horse's mouth. I'll try to contact Rustoleum the first of next week to see if I can get any updated information.
  2. I think that particular problem has a two fold cause. First, we have all been conditioned...brainwashed...to consider ANY seam as undesirable. This, I suspect, goes back to the earlier days of injection molding when that was basically true. Second, a lack of familiarity with the subject or insufficient research as to the proper appearance of any given item, such as rubber tires.
  3. Let's see, Tom, this is strictly from my personal personal perspective and everyone else may have a different experience. I've been writing how to articles, books and ebooks...along with kit reviews and client buildup commissions...for several decades (whew!) and I've never really been concerned with the "go lighter" question. Most of the time I've used FS colors out of the manufacturer's bottle...generally Pactra Scale Flats, Model Master, Floquil, etc. Sometime I mixed the needed color, usually by eyeball. Bottom line is that my goal was to produce something that simply looked 'right' and left it at that. Apparently I've done something right because I've never been accused of my models being too dark or most clients being dissatisfied with my work. But, today everyone seems to be concerned about one or two drops too much or too little to any given color when that one drop difference is next to impossible to be seen. Of course, there are situations...and Dak has discussed this...when the situation is exactly as described in this thread. Whether or not this applies to you, I can't say. What it all comes down to is whether or not you're happy with what you build...unless you build for contests and have a burning desire to be better than anyone else on the planet. THEN the question of scale effect, "go lighter", etc, will be of extreme importance. Just my seven cents worth, adjusted for inflation and experience.
  4. David, you and I are on the same page but stating it differently. Note that I said "slightly' darker tone. I fully agree that colors can be too dark to look "right". As you are certainly aware, any given 'real' paint will look progressively darker the smaller the scale becomes. A shade that is acceptable on a 24th scale aircraft or tank would be impossibly dark on a144th scale version of the same aircraft or tank.
  5. For all practical purposes, it really doesn't matter that real autmotive paint or real aircraft paint is a slightly darker tone on a smaller scale model. UNLESS you're promoting your finished model as having a visually authentic appearance. When I was using real two part urethane out of 55 gallon drums straight from the Bell paint shop on 32nd scale models, the slightly darker tone...if it was enough to even notice...didn't matter to anyone. The only thing that DID matter is that the model looked like the subject in question, NOT whether the paint was two shades or maybe three shades too dark.
  6. Ah, yes, those were the days. I used to be able to get DuPont Lacquer in 1/2 pint cans, custom mixed to chips I brought in at my local DuPont paint store. Paint was $3 or $4 bucks or less and the thinner was around $7 a gallon. Painted a lot of models, particularly helicopters for Bell, that way. Then Bell started supplying the real two part urethane out of 55 gallon drums..... Now it's becoming a snipe hunt to find enamel model paint. And expensive, too.
  7. Agreed. And I would suggest that sloppy construction would be at the head of the list. Just because someone produced a fabulous model or diorama, that doesn't mean it should get a pass for glaringly open seams, glue smears on a canopy or window or a thumbprint in the paint. O.K., I'm being somewhat facetious, but you get my point. At the opposite end of the spear would be those details that are kinda, maybe, probably wrong but that fall into the artistic license category. For example, a tow chain that's just a tad too, big or small for a tank or truck.
  8. David, "we" was intended as a generic inclusive term. Each person has their own standard, as it should be. Unless I have a client who obsesses over a specific color or tone...and I had a Star Trek fanatic who did..."good enough for government work" is close enough. I have stated many times in columns, articles and print books that we as modelbuilders build representations, not replicas. It would be impossible to do otherwise due to reduced scale, manufacturing limitations, etc. The object, if we're honest with ourselves, is to create a finished model that looks like the real thing as much as possible. This applies to both standalone models and dioramas/vignettes.
  9. And to think we wear ourselves out trying to match an "accurate color chip" on our computer screens when no two screens will produce identical colors. Got an actual color chip? Then we have to determine how long it's been exposed to the sun...or artificial light...or out of the light...or..... The bottom line is that no one...not even the experts...can tell you anything beyond what the color is supposed to be. The reality, Robin, is your situation and thousands more like it. The best any of us can do is get as close as possible and leave it at that,.
  10. What can I say, David. Everything you and I say...as well as everyone else who has commented on this thread...is absolutely correct. Which comment/observation applies depends on the particular moment and the specific project's reason for being.
  11. As for the question of what part of modelbuilding do I enjoy? It depends...and varies from one project to the next. Building for a client? Then the client controls the answer. For a magazine article or print book? Then it depends on the deadline and how much space I have. Many, if not most, of my article subjects look better in print than they do in person due to limited time. And no, I'm not Shep Paine reincarnated, so I can't produce one of his Monogram dioramas in a month's time. Building for myself? Depends on the mood I'm in. Producing a model for one of my Modelbuilding Guides? Then I pay attention to everything from seams to details to aftermarket additions to paint to research to research to research. Building for an IPMS/USA Nationals? Haven't been there or done that and probably won't...unless I can figure out a way to make San Marcos in 2020.
  12. Beautiful! Bob, you made my point...and my day. What shade of O.D. Green is this guy? Your choice.
  13. Something I had not done for my original post on the death of Testors..which turned out to be a mistake...was to check on clear coats. The enamel #2936 High Gloss Clearcoat in a spray can no longer exists, though you can still get a 1/2 oz bottle of Gloss clear enamel. On the lacquer side, automotive lacquer sprays have dropped from 32 to 19. And that includes their 2 part system colors that require Ultra Gloss Clear Coat for a proper finish. Gloss Classic White lacquer and the required clear coat are two of the dearly departed products. But, you can still get the Wet Look Clear and High Gloss Clear. At least for now. Yeah, I know. I can hear you asking about Dullcote and Glosscote. They're still on the Rustoleum website, along with the same products in 1 oz bottles. But for how long is another question., So why am I carping about the disappearing Model Master/Testors paints? Because between the time I started an ambulance for a client and getting near to having it done, paints that I'm using on it have disappeared, making me change horses in midstream. Worse, an article on the same project is having to be revised to incorporate the paint changes, as well as using valuable editorial space to let readers know what's going on.
  14. One man's accuracy is another man's accuarcy. This is particularly true when you build for clients. Worse, my Williams Bros C-46A was taken to task in a review for the shade of O.D. on an O.D./Neutral Gray scheme. Their comment? I probably did what many modelers do, grabbed what I had on hand. Believe me, in a discussion on accuracy, you can't win for losing.
  15. As I said in and earlier post, hobby shops get their products from distributors. One of the main ones in the U.S. is Stevens International. It's one of the major sources for the Hobby Town chain, Hobby Town being the shop where I keep seeing an expanding number of 'discontinued' stickers on Model Master Enamel paints. Out of curiosity, I checked the Testors list of available Model Master paints in the standard 1/2 oz bottles. Including certain colors that are listed by Hobby Town as discontinued...and including automotive colors...there are a grand total of 72 colors available to order. That's 22 fewer bottles than I listed in my initial post, when the count was 94. Worse, keep in mind that NO Metalizer colors were listed on the latest Testors website, but 11 are listed on the Stevens International site. That means that the non-metalizer MM colors have dropped by an additional 1/3 to 61 instead of 94. By the way, the original Testors website...testors.com...is still up and hasn't changed one whit, while the one that you have to access thru the Rustoleum site is more reflective of what's readily available.
  16. Hang in there, Mark. I know I'm running slow getting to the True North paint, but my wife's recovery from knee replacement surgery has slowed things down considerably. Finishing an ambulance for a client and will then turn my attention to True North.
  17. Joe, I started another thread here in the early part of September about True North. I had just gotten a number of colors in and had not had a chance to used them yet, mainly due to my wife's second knee replacement surgery. Still haven't gotten to them, but I did open a couple of bottles. Just from the appearance alone of the paint in the bottle, it appears that it is very similar to Model Master. Based on the True North website and a telcon with their president, I have a very positive first opinion of the product. I will be using the paint for my next ebook and will also report in this forum about my experience and opinion. Richard
  18. A quick search on Google produces a post in Finescale. Precision Enterprises Limited PO Box 9 Springfield, VT 05156 802- 885-3094 This company is evidently the sole source for the stuff. Price is $7.50 plus $2.50 shipping. The post states that it is ideal for 48th scale but too small for 32nd. Finally, if you call to place your order, let the phone ring until someone answers. Hope this helps.
  19. ipmsusa2

    Dusty LAV

    Good evening, Have you noticed that most of the time LAV models aren't really all that dusty or dirty? Particularly the tire sidewalls? Well, I stumbled across an LAV operating in Afghanistan that looks like the paint shop was spraying dust. The tire treads and the sidewalls are pretty much the same color. For what it's worth, here's a photo that surfaced on Quora. Despite the fact that my primary interest is aircraft, this shot intrigues me to the point that I just might try building a model to match.
  20. Chris, Haven't built the kit, but I have one. Whenever I get around to it, I'm hoping to convert it to a P-38G. Nothing like being a glutton for punishment, is there? Anyway, good luck on your project. Sounds like it'll be a spectacular model when its finished. and also an ideal entry in the 2020 Nats in San Marcos, Texas. Richard
  21. As far as I've been able to find, there isn't. Eduard produces a Big Ed photoetch package that covers the interior, seatbelts, landing gear detail, exterior and canopy masks. You also will absolutely want the white metal l.g. replacements from Scale Aircraft Conversions. Quickboost produces...and probably some other companies....offer gun barrels. Don't worry about showing the engines exposed on the model because Trumpeter doesn't provide positionable panels. But do spend a lot of time figuring out where you're gonna cram enough weight to keep the nose down. Hint: It ain't gonna be easy.
  22. I just got my first box of True North paint in. Haven't used it yet and know nothing about it beyond their website and a couple of telephone conversations with the company president. I'll let you know what I think about it as I start using it. About all I can tell you right now is that I'll be using it in my next Modelbuilding Guide ebook, I opened a couple of bottles and I like what I see, definitely thick enough to hand brush nicely, still thin enough to airbrush without being prethinned AND it isn't an acrylic. Oh, yeah, one more thing. The FS numbers are on the back of the label in font that's large enough to actually read. Odd place, you say? Well, it beats having it squeezed down to the point you need an Optivisor in order to read it on the front of the label.
  23. Bill, Firefox does suppress popups. While I don't know for sure, odds are the popups are from the various webhosts. I appreciate you providing all the details.
  24. Bill, Have no idea what caused that. Might be Safari or iPad when you consider that the site is built with Microsoft FrontPage. I use Firefox browser and don't run into anything like you describe anywhere. Still, I don't like that you had problems so I will be checking with Freeyellow to get their input. I appreciate your feedback.
  25. Joe, Keep in mind that the only things we know for sure are as follows: The Rustoleum/Model Master online catalog that I listed in the post that started this thread is the latest documented list of MM available colors that I'm aware of. Hobby Lobby has virtually eliminated MM enamels, but still have a wide range of Acryl colors. Hobby Town...at least in my location...carries all of the MM enamels, but every time you check the paint aisle there are more "discontinued" stickers. Also, Hobby Town...as do most if not all brick and mortar hobby retailers...order their paint from distributors such as Stevens International. If the distributors don't carry it, chain store retailers like Hobby Lobby and Hobby Town can't get it. This is, of course, not a 100% rule, especially where the resin/photoetch/decal aftermarket and paint manufacturers such as Tru-Color and Tru-North is concerned. Robert's post re:Rustoleum selling Testors & Model Master to PPG has yet to be confirmed. Finally, your stash may not last your lifetime. Chemical changes...generally forced by the EPA...have resulted in many paints going bad in the bottle before you ever open it. Someone at Hobby Lobby told me that they have paint that goes bad on the shelf before they can sell it. I, personally, have bought three or four bottles recently of MM flat black and had one or two go bad in the bottle before I had a chance to open it. Conversely, I have paint that I use on occasion that is anywhere from 30 to 50 years old and the stuff is still good. What paint brands? The earlier Model Master, small square bottle Testors and the late, lamented Pactra Scale Flats. Also the original formula Floquil.
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