sumterIII

Try this

Great job, with more practice the sprue will be as thin as you like. I pull mine almost three feet before giving it time to cool, a nice steady pull while watching the thickness till you get it where you like it. Mine will end up thicker at the end but hair thick at the bottom. But why am I telling you this, I may end up having to compete against you some day

Great looking book, looks like one I need to add to my collection. Thanks!

Well looks like GMM time now for the PE set and maybe new guns too, so yes 75 should be about right. New questions: 1. main deck was steel, what about the bridge deck? 2. Boot topping was it black or not there? Pictures I have are not clear to see for sure. This was my first ever kit back in the stone age of my youth. I was living with my grandparents in Pensacola Fl and my grandfather was working at the Naval Air Station designing the new Chapel. He picked up the Ward kit and helped me build it. He also gave me other Naval related models from various contractors he knew. Good times that I never forgot.

Man you kicked it again, the hull detail and clean build is another winner for sure! Congrats

well for mine I sanded and painted, (not happy with it!) but I'm not a big 700 fan like you. If this was 350 I would buy the wood, but tha't just me. If your going all out like with the guns and quay then I would finish it right with wood too. jmho

I found this website on the update of the Ward. http://www.internetmodeler.com/2004/january/ships/Ward.php I'm not sure about the black boot top, anyone know if the Ward had that?

I can't speak about the IJN stuff but the Arizona by Dragon is a good kit. I still can't understand the loggic of splitting the deck in places that will show seams without removing most of the detail. The three leg mast is a bit of pain to get right too. Some builders revert to brass tube. What color are you going with on her? Looking at my stash so many kits so little time....

Thanks I have the old Revell kit which will needs lots of TLC. My main concern was the 20mm guns, I think they were added after 12/7.

I kind of fell into this one with a deal on ebay. What I'm looking for is the armament configuration for Dec 7, 1941. I have google pictures and line drawings that are confusing. Any Ward info you guys have please share. Thanks

Well at least she still wants you around, mine would be willing to help the grim reaper everytime I bring home another box

Well for one ship I paid over 100.00 for the kit plus another 450.00 for PE sets, not including paint which will be another 100.00. But so far she is in the dark as I bought a bit at a time. My next goal is a Nagato but now your talking 200.00+ just for the kit plus the PE plus paint so total over 550.00. Might have to sell a body part if I ever wanted a Fuso

As I was signing the papers on my pickup truck the salesman asked "did you get what you wanted?" I said "no but I got what I needed".

Yes the Revell kit is one piece. I wish more kits were like that!

Chris I forgot to say last night that you can use stretched spru to fill holes too. Just stick it in and clip off after glue, then sand smooth. Save you some sink holes and lots of putty.

I second what PetrolGator said. I have the Revell kit and it is awesome. The detail is enough to work without a PE set, or you can elect to get the minimal and build it to a very fine level. I went all out with mine with three sets of PE and wood deck from Pontos. I highly recommend the Eduard set for the following reasons. Revell did not plank the forward anchor chain area of the forecastle; Eduard has this in the PE set. Open grates along the edge of the AA mounts are included with the Eduard set. Depth charge racks are included in Eduard. Most of these parts are compatible with both Bismarck and Tirpitz. Tom’s PE has all the basic PE sets needed for Bismarck or Terpitz and is very affordable. The Pontos wood deck also includes anchor chain and draft markings.

My first thought would be the England, your so close to finish now anyway.

I sent a message to Tom's asking about the cage mast, still no answer yet. Will let you know if Roger sends out anything new.

Oh don't get me wrong, ISW has issues, not that any kit hasn't though. http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu218/sumterIII/BB%2026/BB27/DSCF1085.jpg http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu218/sumterIII/BB%2026/BB27/DSCF1080.jpg The top side is excellent however even with that said this ship was modeled after a set of plans that I have problems with. There are places that I think went wrong, but still I can live with it.. like that cheetos commercial where evey time the guy takes a bite a robot slaps him...he says I can live with it....and so can I with this ship. Truth is YS Masterpieces has one I'm drooling over. Le BOUVET 1896 1/350 scale, now I know it's not a cage mast but I LIKE it. This from all reports is the best resin kit out there. Nothing to add. Again about $300.00 but worth it. I know what your wanting and so do many others including me, maybe someday the model deities will answer.

I can only tell you about the 350 versions from ISW. Yes they are expensive on face value, but when you consider the cost of a plastic kit with PE set/sets then it's not as bad as it may appear. I have the ISW BB26 which cost just under $300.00. On the plastic side I have the Revell Bismarck which cost under $100.00 for the kit but total spent so far with wood deck and three PE sets came to just under $500.00 total. If you go to the IJN side then Fujimi is way out there to start with, example would be Fuso at almost $400.+ depending on store. Then add a couple of PE sets and you see where your at. Now to be fair my BB26 will end up being more, having already ordered extra PE sets and tooling up for scratch building the cage mast. (which may change depending on what happens with Tom's new cage mast). I find it hard to accept any 1/700 kit that cost $300.00, if I have to spend that much on one so small it better be very very good OOB. If a styrene version of any cage mast ship was available and sold for $100.00 or less I would fill my stock very quickly. A new WV, TX or even better an AZ would be very welcome! After all the cage mast fleets were the golden age of battleships

Sorry Chris I have never used that, but some of the guys in our club use durham's water putty. It's not clear but easy to use and makes great waves. Paul used it on a sub build a couple years ago. http://www.sumter-shawafb-ipms.org/display.asp?ref=alfaT.jpg&pg=2 Have you seen this from steel navy? http://www.steelnavy.com/WavePatterns.htm But on the gel question, have you used a spatula or your finger rather than a brush? Random dabbing your finger will make small waves outside the wake in caulk.

super job, very realistic Here is a picture of an Iraq bone yard, note the heavy layer of dirt, everything over there got covered and recovered almost daily. http://i649.photobucket.com/albums/uu218/sumterIII/iraq.jpg

Very nice collection Duke, those old Aztec kits bring back fond memories. I wish the Akron was still around....thanks

Coumbia SC store is pretty good, they support IPMS and AMPS. (extra discounts for club members) They even set up a room in back for build classes which include RC guys too.

http://www.histomil.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&p=46860 This is a must see for all those who like WW I ships, enjoy. Some great shots of the USN battlewagons too!