sumterIII

Can you paint Alclad chrome with a brush? I want to paint the window frame on a car kit. I also saw where someone said it was best to base coat with gloss black before painting Alclad, is this true?

congrats Chris, some big shoes to step into

I have the single hood scoop and blower from a 69 Charger if you want it. Same model company so it should fit your motor.

Best one yet, btw the like button said I had reached my limit for the day humm never used it before so I guess its not working or I'm barred? Anyway Like I said on MWS if you are building for yourself do what pleases you. If anyone complains turn your 1/350 16 inchers his way and yell FIRE!

I wanted to use a SPARK II roller set on my M-ATV kit. However I have not found anyone that makes the new version. The older SPARK I was made by Blast but is OOP. Legend has one for the HUMVEE but no MRAP. The new SPARK has 4 additional wheels (two on each side of the original 4) and is controlled from inside the cab. It can be extended or retracted with hydraulics rather than adding more extensions as in SPARK I set up. The wheels are not solid anymore as well. Has anyone heard or know anyone that has a rumor of the new version coming out or better is there one already avalible? Here is a link to the new Spark II setup. http://www.brahmand.com/news/US-Military-fields-new-mine-roller-technology-to-defeat-IEDs/5964/1/13.html

Okay so there I was working on the frame of a 69 Dodge Charger, the floor and frame was twisted to the point of not having all four wheels on the ground. After placing the floor/frame in a jig and placing it in the sun to heat, I moved on to the body and cab. I came back two days later and checked, no applicable change in the twist. Didn't think it would work anyway, so off to the work bench and my heat gun. BAD idea! I was careful and determined to get this fixed and I was tired of the time wasted so far. SOOO hast makes waste and glory be the old saying was correct. The right side was buckled beyond help. For a few moments I had thoughts of buying a new kit and trash this one. But I said to self....you can do this :Smile-tongue: So off with the bad and in with the new parts. I built the frame just like I used to do in the auto body shop on the real thing, rebuilt the wheel house and managed to get the curve out of the floor in the process. :gold-plane: So it may not be perfect but it saved the kit and my money and now my life is good again.

Or just build it with a blower and skip the hood. I remember a lot of guys doing that on the 1:1 scale back in the day.

That makes me feel...

She sure looks good with those cage mast :)

Do you plan to retain the cage foremast or replace with a tri-pod? I assume you will do away with the aft mast and replace that with a fire control station or something along those lines i.e. USS Penn 1945. Or you could do something like an IJN Tone with aircraft on aft deck. Just a thought....

I spent my Military career working on flight decks of US Navy Aircraft carriers. One of the biggest dangers was getting to close to the intakes of jet engines. I don't see how anybody could bail out of that thing with the intake right above your head. I agree with you on this one Tim. Your dead on when you say, "Yea, right"!!!!! :gray-plane: Chris They could have always gone out the bottom like the early F-104's or just do what Japan did on the Yokosuka MXY-7 Ohka cherry blossom and forgo the pilot recovery issue.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ3u0jjWCkc For Viking ship fans, your going to love this 1:1 scale build.

Man this gets into personal preference. Some use acrylic black thinned down and layer. I have used Burnt Sienna oil paint thinned with turpentine, clean off excess with clean Q-Tip with turpentine. Yes in both cases I don’t see how you can get around dry-brushing for the finial finish though. You might like this thread http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=112632&hilit=propeller+color

Maybe bronze would help. I have mixed my own color for bronze using Testors copper and silver, about 3:1 mix. But you can play with it a bit and use photographs as a guide. http://www.navsource.org/archives/05/724.htm

Super build Chris I would add to what Rusty said that you should tone down the props. They look over scale in the picture (maybe not), but with the bright brass really makes them stand out more than the rest of the ship. Also use black lines for the cables and light or white for the halyards. Awesome build congrats

Paper- rock- scissors steel trumps wood Picture from http://www.history.navy.mil/photos/sh-usn/usnsh-w/dd139-c.htm

Noting the review of US in Iraq "U.S. Modern Infantry (Iraq War)" I remembered Alliance Model Works have decals for two versions of camo, so for those who want to skip the painting of these schemes you can use the decal. http://www.am-works.com/store/lw35069-army-acupat-camouflage-decal-p-169.html http://www.am-works.com/store/lw35070-marines-marpat-desert-camouflage-decal-p-168.html Note the change for Afghanistan war. All branches of US forces now use this light weight uniform in the field which is not the same pattern as Iraq or what Alliance is offering.

My wife is Italian so I can understand why in Italy they would be blue. ha

I found a new wood deck for the Ward being offered by one after market company. Now I thought the Ward was a steel deck not planked. Whats up with that?

I posted a question on another board about the insulators (aka Jonny Ball)used on ship rigging. Most of us use white for the color, but I noticed on the 1:10 Yamato Museum model at Kure they were red. RE: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=4707&start=1860 Within that thread a link to Johnny Ball was provided which may help others here when rigging. http://glassian.org/GuyStrain/ Happy Happy modeling.........

awesome link thanks. I like the Fish-Shaped Submersible, might have to get that!

Incomplete or missing details on instruction sheets, particularly on PE sets. Or in some cases Dragon instructions!

New Steampunk kits comming from Alliance, more details to follow.... Photo by Carl Musselman

Hobby Search of Japan http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/plamo/

You almost got me going there with Ohio and Maine. then I saw they were Montana class not the early cage mast...crawing back in my hole now