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Everything posted by JHockett

  1. I believe you may be refering to Parafilm, although it does not harden. You may want to try epoxy putty for this purpose (assuming you aren't wanting something clear). Mix the putty, then work on a hard, flat surface such as a small sheet of glass. Sprinkle a small amout of talcum powder on the surface and get some on each side of the putty. Flatten it by hand to start with, then lay a strip of styrene of your desired thickness on either side of it and use a piece of pipe or large tubing as a roller, roll it to that thickness, making sure to keep flipping it over periodically to keep it from sticking. Let it firm up enough to handle, then trim it up with a sharp blade and form it over the surce you want to cover and leave it to harden completely. If you want it to stick to itself or the surrounding suface you can moisten it sparingly with water. HTH, Jim
  2. Thanks for the comments, Ed. Four strings is indeed correct and it is as sculpted. The concrete is Apoxie Sculpt and the bench is carved plaster-of-Paris. Jim
  3. Andy, How deeply does one need to sand to get rid of the burned edges? This is the one nitpick I have with most of the laser cut stuff I have seen built up.
  4. Thanks, guys. Ed, the figure is painted in acrylics. Long ago I used to paint in oils over acylics, then switched to just using Polly-Scale acylics. When they switched their formula around quite a few years back I hated it. Our local shop wasn't experiencing enough demand to caryy Vallejo or Andrea colors, and I had read a posting somewhere by Chris Mrosko saying that Delta Ceramcoat craft paint wasn't too bad, so I set out to learn with them. My first few attempts were pretty rough, but I have learned how to thin them now. The LHS does now carry "real" acrylics, but since I have learen to use these and the bottles are big enough to last a long time, I probably won't be switching for a while. As far as the figure itself, there was a LOT of clean-up required. Many of the folds had little bits of extra material in them that neede to be scraped or sanded away.The main body has benn primed with Tamiya extra fine pimer five times because I just kept finding more stuff to clean up. Fit is decent, although I did use Aves apoxie sculpt on most of the major joints.
  5. Andrea's 54mm "Old Fiddler". Still a ways to go.
  6. JHockett

    The Geisha

    Very nice! Did you have any issues with thinning the paint enough to achieve such smooth brushwork on the patterns and still getting it to cover? Jim
  7. IPMS/Grand Junction Scale Modellers Society will be hosting WestFest 2013 on April 20th and 21st. The event will take place at the Center for Independence, 740 Gunnison Ave. in Grand Junction. 9 to 5 on Saturday, and 9 to 3 on Sunday. Volunteer judges are welcome Saturday evening. This year's theme will be "Three". We wanted to have a wide open theme this year and we definitely have one, What is “Three”? Anything you can relate to the number 3. For example a Panzer III, or a triceratops, or a trike, or a 3 masted ship, or…. You get the idea. Come join us for some fun. My contact info is: shermaholic@aol.com, home phone 970-243-0889, cell phone 970-270-8474 Club website is http://www.gjsms.org/wordpress/ contest info at http://www.gjsms.org/wordpress/westfest-2013/ and links to last year's photos at http://www.gjsms.org/wordpress/gallery/shows-and-contests/westfest-2012-2/ so you can see what we've got going on.
  8. I am including a couple of pics I just snapped of the old Italeri Priest I built back in the eighties. The first is straight on and the second I tried to match the angle of the picture above.
  9. I gotta go with the naysayers. I think that there is a barrel. The vehicle is being directed to turn to the right, which would tend to obscure the barrel, but I do think you can still see the end of it. Plus it appears that the rest of the gun is still in place. Is there a higher resolution copy available?
  10. I'm lucky enough to live in an area where there is still a good local hobby shop. Their support of our IPMS chapter and other local organizations makes the nominally higher cost worth it to me. Like most other brick and mortar stores, they may eventually be forced out of existence by the internet, in which case I will give Sprue brothers a try because they have a great reputation for speedy delivery. Until then, I'm going to stick with the old-fashioned system where I can browse the shelves and have my new kit in hand only seconds after making my choice.
  11. HardCorps Models offered a few printed items including a set of workable LVT tracks and hatch cages for PTO Shermans. There is also a company that prints scale dinsosaurs. Resolution is the biggest issue. With parts such as HardCorps was doing where the sides vertical and the corners pretty sharp, it's not a big deal, but for angled or curved surfaces you definitely can see the layering effect. Stereolithography, which uses lasers to spot cure a gel, produces smoother results than this powder process, but all the parts I have seen still have have a surface most modelers would not be happy with, unless they are bead blasted. SUrf around and you can find examples of guys that are building this way, and some of the aftermarket guys are using this process for masters. As long as you are aware of the limitations of the technology it can be very useful, and I'm sure the resolution will continue to improve. Check out http://www.finelineprototyping.com/ if you want to learn a little more. Jim
  12. JHockett

    DS Tracks / Help

    DS tracks are glueable with normal solvent type model cement. Jim
  13. Pliers with round jaws (available at any craft store in the jewelery section) work well. The standard jaws are tapered, but the railing you are working with is narrow enought that you should be able to flip it over and eliminate any problem from that.
  14. Nice. I especially like the leather on the raven bearer. Jim
  15. 54mm Holy Family by Thunderbolt Mountain Miniatures. Not the most imaginative base, but it is for a gift and needs a glass dome to protect it. The shading is a little more prominent for the same reason.
  16. Chris, Great job on the white. Four weeks on a figure would be speed-painting compared to my current output. Jim
  17. Another nice job. My only suggestion might be more tones on the jacket to ease the transition into the deep shadows. Jim
  18. Very nice. I especiallylike the gold tones. Jim
  19. Dick, Glazing is simply adding a layer of paint that is thin enough to be semi-transparent. Building up colors this way helps blend and avoids the hard edged appearance in your shading and highlighting. Jim
  20. Dick, Keep at least a folded paper towel handy (I use one of those note paper cubes) to unload the extra paint out of your brush before applying it to your figure. This will also give you a handy area to see how your base, shadow and highlight colors work together. I find that it works best for me to thin the highlight color to just a little more than a wash and gradually build up glaze coats to the desired intensity. Jim
  21. Thanks, Patti. I am very impressed with your work. As far as the base for this one, it started with a $1.50 candle holder from the Habitat for Humanity store. I cut it at an angle with the Dremel, then epoxied it to the wooden base and bust.
  22. Model Cellar 120mm Landschnekt, finally completed.
  23. Although it is becoming less common as digital technology takes over, some dentists still use x-ray film that comes with a cover of lead foil. I asked my dentist a couple of years ago and was given a lifetime supply for free. Jim
  24. Anthony, The set you are thinking of was produced by Warriors. And my take on it as a box diorama, done right after they came out. Thankfully, my painting skills have improved since then. Jim
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