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JHockett

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Everything posted by JHockett

  1. Tim, Verlinden makes a set of figures, 1:35 US Tankers Warming Up WWII #1105 , the sitting figure of which could form the basis of what you need with minimal surgery. Tanker jackets were highly sought after, so that would be OK, you might need to swap out the boots. The head could be pretty easily repositioned, or better yet swapped out for a Hornet head, reposition the arms a little, and there's a good chance you could use the hands from the other guy. Jim
  2. I use mostly acrylics, so isopropyl alcohol usually does the trick, acetone for the stubborn bits. Either way, the cleaner and airbrush parts go in a glass container, then partially submerged in water in a cheap Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner. Jim
  3. Nearly complete except for some touch-ups and a little more blending. Jim
  4. Jack, There is no clear over the eyes, the catch lights are painted in. When I do use a clear coat, it is just Future. Jim
  5. Thanks, Jack. CHris, the shading and highlights are thinned to a translucent glaze and built up in layers. I will eventually go back with an even thinner coat of the base color to bring it all together. Jim
  6. Chris, He is painted entirely in acrylics.
  7. Thanks for the kind remarks. The figure is painted entirely in acrylics. The tartan was painted with liner brushes, which since they are designed to make lines, make to job much easier. There is shading added to the kilt. Jim
  8. 1/9th Model Cellar landsknecht bust. Shading started on face, the rest is just blocked in.
  9. Latorre 54mm 79th Cameron Highlander Now I need to work on my photography. Jim
  10. Biggs epoxy putty for large gaps and baking soda/CA for air bubbles. A couple of additions/exceptions to Ralph's list: I think that Tamiya's Fine Gray Primer in the rattle can is one of the best figure primers available. Also, while I do have and use WN Series 7 brushes, I am partial to the Loew-Cornell Americans Painters series of brushes available at Micheal's. They are inexpensive and work very well, without much of the "hooking" problem found in many synthetics. Jim
  11. Check out this page http://www.milminwh.com/ww2_&_other.htm I would suggest that you not limit yourself to white metal. Some of the new resin and even plastic figures are worlds above anything by I/R or NHD.
  12. A little more painted, and some refinement on touch-ups and shading.
  13. My answer to all of the above would be Tamiya Fine Surface Primer. Goes on really well, covers good, provides excellent adhesion for paint, and doesn't obscure detail. Jim
  14. Check out these two threads on ML and I think you will find that it is an all new tooling. http://www.network54.com/Forum/47208/messa...our+from+Tamiya http://www.network54.com/Forum/47208/threa...da+-+first+pics Jim
  15. JHockett

    My First Figure

    Looks good. Do you have any photos that show the details a little better? Jim
  16. A little update. Got out the tartan paint and started the kilt. Still have a little touch-up on the lines. Jim
  17. Thanks for the kind comments. Mike, I have to disagree a little. I find the hose to be more of a pain than the kilt. The pleats in the back of the kilt can hide a multitude of sins, but the hose are generally visible all the way around, so everthing has to line up correctly. Jim
  18. Just getting started on this one. 54mm Latorre figure. The face is mostly complete and shading is started on the jacket. The highlights on the jacket are not as harsh on reality as they look in the pics. Jim
  19. Tim, Check out the Wheels of Victory website http//:www.wheelsofvictory.com/index9.html and click on Chevrolet telephone construction. Also some pics at G503.com K43 and Olive Drab.com This webshots album has some TM scans webshots. Jim
  20. I have been working on scratchbuilding a steel bed and #7 wrecker set for the Tamiya CCKW. Here are some pics of the bed which I completed a while back, along with the machined parts for the hoist which I just recently finished. Jim
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