Jump to content

JoeHegedus

Member
  • Content count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

JoeHegedus last won the day on January 31 2017

JoeHegedus had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About JoeHegedus

  • Rank
    Assembler

Profile Information

  • FirstName
    Joseph
  • LastName
    Hegedus
  • IPMS Number
    33868
  • Local Chapter
    Northern Virginia
  • City
    Hollywood
  • State
    MD
  1. Yes, they have a nice 1/32 Stearman. Unfortunately, I believe it is being discontinued. If you want one, better act soon.
  2. JoeHegedus

    Hobbico Hasegawa Oct. 23, 2017 Releases

    At $60 for a Skyraider, I'll pass. That's far too much coin for that kit, regardless of whether or not it's the best available.
  3. JoeHegedus

    1/48 Monogram B-25H Mitchell

    Looks good, Gil. Just wondering; did you do anything to reinforce the landing gear legs? I built that kit many years ago, and the weight required to get it to balance caused the MLG struts to start to bow outboard after a couple months. The easy fix was to use pieces of sprue between the bottom wing surface in the well and the unattached end of what is supposed to be the retraction pivot axle, to give a load path from there to the wing to counteract the bending moment that comes from the wheels being outboard of the struts.
  4. JoeHegedus

    What's That Antenna WIRE?

    Invisible thread may be purchased at your local fabric store (JoAnn's, for example). Uschi thread is available online; do a google search for it. See my previous post, I described installation there.
  5. JoeHegedus

    What's That Antenna WIRE?

    Uschi thread is something I've heard good things about; just haven't managed to get my act together enough to buy some yet!
  6. JoeHegedus

    Tell Me WHY ?

    Same here. I usually order it from Tower Hobbies 5 or 6 cans at a time.
  7. JoeHegedus

    What's That Antenna WIRE?

    People use various things to make the antenna wire. Some like to use stretched sprue, others like to use fine nylon monofilament line, others prefer to use fine elastic thread, and some like to use actual wire. The choice somewhat depends on the scale as well as personal preference. Stretched sprue is just what it says - take a piece of the parts tree from the kit about 3 inches or so in length, and hold it so that the center is a couple inches above a candle flame. Keep rotating the sprue like a roast on a spit until it starts to sag where it's being heated, then remove it from the heat source and smoothly pull the ends of the sprue apart. The soft center section will stretch out into a long, thin strand. It takes a bit of practice to get the feel, but one can vary the speed of pull to get different thickness of the strand. Nylon monofilament is fishing line, essentially. The finer the better, usually. Fly-fishing leader material is often suggested, but if you go to your local fabric store you can get "invisible thread" that is really a fine nylon monofilament line. It comes in clear or smoke coloring; I prefer the smoke when I use it. For 1/72 (my usual scale of choice), I normally prefer to use fine elastic thread. This one is a bit harder to obtain - it takes a bit of effort as my source is a section cut from an old pair of black nylon stockings (pantyhose). The idea is to pull thread strands out of the weave and use those. Tedious, and sometimes difficult to get a piece that is a consistent number of threads for the whole length, but very fine and quite forgiving when installed (it has a lot of stretch). For larger scales, actual wire can be used. Fine copper wire can be obtained from the armature windings of an old toy electric motor. As to how to install, that varies somewhat depending on how the wire is routed. If one end is anchored in the fuselage itself, drill a small hole and use CA glue to secure one end in that hole. When that has set, pull the wire material you've selected to the point where the other end is to be secured and use a small drop of CA to hold it in place. When that has set, use a razor blade or similar to trim the excess. If both ends are secured to a mast or similar, then just do like the second end of what I just described twice. Nylon thread and stretched sprue can both be tightened a bit once installed with heat; light a match, blow it out and hold the just-extinguished end under the line you want to tighten. The residual heat from the match will cause the line to shrink a bit and tighten up. Don't get the match head too close, though, as too much heat will cause the line to break.
  8. JoeHegedus

    Tell Me WHY ?

    My 2 cents about Alclad. It does not NEED a primer over bare plastic for most of the shades in the line, if one is misting the coats on. I've used it on several projects without primer with good results. The solvent doesn't have enough time to react with the plastic before it evaporates unless one sprays it on in heavy, wet coats. However, if one has done any "body work" on the kit and used putty or other filler that is a different color from the plastic, a primer is a good idea so that one has a uniform base coat for the finish. The place where you NEED the primer is if the desired finish is a chrome or 'mirror' finish; in that case a dark (black), gloss undercoat is required. Alclad is good stuff, though - a good looking finish that is tough and durable. That said, Tamiya AS-12 "airframe aluminum" spray paint is awesome stuff as well. It's a lacquer, so one has to a bit careful not to apply it too heavily, but it has good coverage, and isVERY durable and tough - one can mask over it with no worries about paint pulling up. It is more of a dull aluminum shade, but works quite well for a used, in-service finish and it's very easy to mask panels and paint them with different shades if desired.
  9. JoeHegedus

    Very Cheap but very useful clamps

    I've used reversed clamps like this for several years, and have found that having the sides converge when the clamp is empty is advantageous, as the jaws are more close to parallel when in use. This makes it less likely that jaws will slide off the part being clamped. Plus, if the jaws of the reversed clamp are parallel when closed, there isn't any movement available to open the jaws.
  10. JoeHegedus

    Just When Do You SAND ?

    Nothing to add the Pete's post, but I must say that I love the Senator Bedfellow avatar, Pete!
  11. JoeHegedus

    Profile publications

    http://www.boxartden.com/gallery/index.php Go down to "Model References" and follow that link.
  12. JoeHegedus

    Market for old vac forms

    Rick, that Flycatcher sounds interesting. What do you want for it? Joe Joe, will sell for $10 + shipping and shipped by any means you choose. Sounds good to me. If you can shoot me an email to hegedus(at)md(dot)metrocast(dot)net we can work out the details. Thanks! Joe
  13. JoeHegedus

    Market for old vac forms

    Rick, that Flycatcher sounds interesting. What do you want for it? Joe
  14. JoeHegedus

    Another Stearman in progress

    It's a recent issue (last couple years) so it should be readily available. Sprue Brothers is showing it in stock ( http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/rmx855264.htm ) as does Tower Hobbies ( http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDYXU&P=W ).
  15. JoeHegedus

    Market for old vac forms

    I"m interested if you have an Esoteric Vought SBU scout bomber and/or 1/72 Esoteric Vought O3U Corsair, both in the "Naval Aircraft Factory/NAF" line.
×