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'54 Chevy Sedan Delivery-Completed Photos


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Thanks Gary!

 

I finally made it to the bench a a couple of days ago and was able to get the seat belts built and installed.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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Ok fellas I managed to modify the OOB rear flooring to fit around the wheel tubs in the back and mate up to the original front floor section almost perfectly. I shot primer, then the red coat and then flocked it after the red had dried. So far so good. The wheel tub coloring / flocking is up next.

 

From here:

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To here:

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  • 1 month later...

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I'll be finishing this up with the paint and decals exactly how it is on the box. I was able to fab out the original decals to get a new set printed up with a customized license plate based off of the most recent Texas plate design that reads RUQWKR. lol

Folks this gets more "do-able" by the day. I've got the bulk of it all test fitted here and so far everything is fitting and clearing where it's supposed to. A couple of shots:

 

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This is where things had to be adjusted a bit. The firewall was sitting to low from the rear of the body line at the rear of the engine bay opening causing a gap between the firewall and the body. I shimmed it up a little to close the gap up. I've already test fitted the body and I'm in good shape so far.

 

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P.S. Just in case anybody spotted it....I am working on the front wheel center caps. There aint no way I'm going to leave those things as is! wink.png

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Man Joe...this is really looking good. One question though...where's the beer in the cooler?? If we're watching a "B" Ball game on the screen...we need a DOG and A beer...ya know??? LOL

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Ok I'm mostly finished with the rolling chassis and interior. I still have to build a master cylinder and power brake booster for it and add the brake lines but I figured that I'd start on the body some. To say that the body has it's fair share of problems would be an understatement.
I usually see mold lines down around the corners and "what-not" but on top of the front fender? Really????????

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This is pretty bad too....

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and this is just nasty!!

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and then there's the fact that there's not a headlight bucket one for the headlamp lenses. That's right! There aint nothin behind the lenses 'cept atmosphere! Good grief!! I'll be Frenching in some headlight buckets later on..............

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Well Joe...I think this body will give you more.... "body sanding/putty work" skills. It's going to look KOOL when you're finished with it...that's for sure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks there Gary!

 

.I'm really getting a workout with my body work skills with this ride. I forgot to mention these areas too:

The seam line that looks like an upside down "L" beneath that body line there. Wow!

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and this:

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What's fairly surprising to me, even for Revell, is the total lack of headlight buckets for the lenses. No bucket, no bezels...just pop a lens into a hole and that's it.

I bought this guy here to rob the buckets/bezels from ...( Hey, I got it for 40% off at HL so it wasn't too expensive of an addition)

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I frenched this one in there to show the difference this is gonna make by cutting the headlight opening back to match the headlight buckets diameter and trimming the inside of the opening so it would fit. In the following pictures you can see where I've gotten rid of a lot of the riff-raff in regards to seam/mold lines with the initial sanding. Wet sanding is to follow. I'll be taking care of the hood hinge cut-outs as well by filling those in.

Viva la difference:

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I've still got a looooooooooooong way to go on the clean up just on the front end though. As tough as it's gonna be , it's far from impossible I can promise you that! icon_wink.gif

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Thanks Gary!

 

.

I went to Kansas for a week and took the body with me with some clean up tools in order to keep progress moving along and managed to smooth out a lot of the mold line issues on the whole front clip.


For instance, the mold lines on the top of the fenders are now gone and I'm filling in those nasty hood hinge cut outs:

 

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The upside down "L" 's are gone from the front of the fenders on the sides:

 

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and the disgusting seam line between the headlamp opening and the hood line are now gone as well.

 

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Still got some work to do to the hinge openings but here's little bit more clear view:

 

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I also got all those seam lines at the back of vehicle taken care of.

 

Comparison shots:

 

Mold/Seam lines present:

 

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Mold/Seam lines gone.....

 

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I've got a little bit of sanding work to do to repair the bottom of the door and to smooth out all the edges of the door as well as the door opening but it looks like it'll work fine. It's funny about that thread trick. Never thought thread would cut this stuff.

 

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You went to Kansas huh. What part? I lived in Junction City/Manhattan for about 2yrs. Loved it there.

 

Man Joe.....your sanding skills are GREAT. Those "NO SEAM" areas are as smooth as a baby's behind! This is really going to look good when you get to the primer stage. You're doing a lot of good work here bud!!

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Joe,

 

What kind of thread are you using to cut this plastic? Is it a heavier type of regular sewing thread or more of a carpet thread?

 

I've never tried that but it would come in handy in some builds I'm sure. Do you have a lot of control with curved corners and such?

 

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Bill

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I was in Salina for the week there Gary. I had a great time and the weather was a lot more mild there than it is here in Corpus. Thanks for the good word buddy.

 

Bill: It's sewing thread and I used the heavier duty stuff. It still breaks a lot but it produces a really clean cut. For more details refer to this video:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkPE7wOsJ5I

 

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For a little bit there I was just stuck. I had the body primed and was going to test fit the body on the chassis so I could figure out where to make the hood cuts at when......I noticed that the body wasn't going all the way down on the chassis. Long story short I had to take the couch back out in the back as it was too close to the L/H wall of the body. It took me a minute to find it because I noticed a couple of things that I overlooked when installing the floor onto the chassis that'll help with body/chassis alignment later. Those are fixed as well.

I was able to test fit the body and mark the hood for cuts later. One more primer coat and this'll be ready for paint.

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Edited by mustang1989
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This is really looking WAAAAY KOOL Joe. The stance is killer. All the smoothing you did on the body sure turned out great. If you didn't mention it before...what color did you have in mind for the body? This is very good and what is called a "BUILD"....for sure. All the fab work that you're doing is top notch bud!!

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Thanks Gary! I'm going to go with the box top black paint.....and decals. I sent the originals out and had a new set cut to keep in line with the original concept.

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Black's on!!

The first pic has been lightened a little to show the detail while the second one is unaltered to show the correct shade. In any case............she's black:

 

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Thanks Gary! I'd be an idiot if I didn't. Lemme just jump ahead real quick (I'm actually past the last couple of photos a little) and get that said and done.

 

Clear applied.....

 

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With the reflection of my camera and hand in the gloss finish I couldn't help but snap a couple of shots off:

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Edited by mustang1989
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OK Joe, what kind of clear coat on this did you use?

 

Are the pics just with the paint or are they polished out also?

 

You've got a great touch with no orange peel on it, it seems.

 

Nice job.

 

Bill

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Thanks Gary and Bill!

 

Bill: That is the clear with no polishing and I'm using Model Master Wet Look. It's almost gotten to the point that I hate polishing anything out anymore due to all the little tiny scratches that I seem to get no matter what I use. More on that later.

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i have a couple of cans of that stuff. Now I'll try it out.

 

Thanks for the pics of what it looks like. I was afraid to find out on my own car model, but now it's a go.

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i have a couple of cans of that stuff. Now I'll try it out.

 

Thanks for the pics of what it looks like. I was afraid to find out on my own car model, but now it's a go.

Be sure to decant it and let it gas out real good and then shoot it through an air brush. That stuff has one helluva lot of air in it as I found out. You'll see what I mean later.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Been working on the same model(different box art) for a while and this kit is really a difficult one. I don't want to hijack your thread but thought I would add some comments. Getting the hood to fit was a real challenge especially with the grill in place. I also really dislike the way the bumpers go on. I cut about an eighth of an inch out of the center to get them to snug down to the body. I think it looks much better. Getting the stance right is a real challenge and it looks like you did that very well!

 

You mentioned scratches from sanding the clear coat. I follow a process that seems to work well. I have some micromesh sanding sticks in 3600, 6000 and 12000 grit to get things flat then use 8000 and 12000 foam sanding pads to bring the gloss up a bit. After that I use Tamiya coarse, medium and fine polishing paste with an old t-shirt to polish it up. This does leave some very fine sanding marks but a coat of Tamiya wax will make those go away very quickly. I don't know about you, but I have never been able to lay down a perfect coat of paint straight from the airbrush or can. There is always a bit of orange peel. That makes the reflections uneven and when I judge paint, that is the first thing I look for.

 

Good luck with this. It is really looking great to this point.

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