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Everything posted by Wolfman63

  1. The Stuka diorama is now finished! I assembled, painted and weathered all eight figures. The figures came out fine considering this is the first time I painted full figures. The aircraft was then mounted to the base along with the accessory vehicles, aircraft panels, and the maintenance ladder. I placed the fuel drums and one jerry can off to the side. I then added the figures. Two high ranking officers were placed standing on the edge of the runway. Two others in uniforms were placed running the power cart with one of them bringing a jerry can. The four others in coveralls were placed with o
  2. This week the diorama base for the Stuka is being built up. The base is a 16” diameter, 1/8” thick maple base. I started by painting the base with forest green and dirt tan in patches. Using the Scene-O-Rama accessories the base was sprayed with spray glue and sprinkled with the medium green and dark green “grass”. I then added some “weed clumps” and added some “yellow flower” spots on the weeds. A sheet of thin styrene was then trimmed to fit one edge to be part of the runway. I used medium gravel to trim the edge of the runway and sprinkled a few “rocks” around the base. The area where the a
  3. Kapton tape is a polyimide tape. Typically used in electronics. I first found out about it many years ago. At work they used it for isolating sections of circuit boards that were used on a wave solder machine. The thing that is nice is it does not react to paint, thinners or glues, the silicone adhesive leaves no residue and the edges seal very well so no bleed thru. The polyimide nature also allows a little bit of stretch for curves. You can buy a pack with a variety of widths on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Polyimide-Temperature-Resistant-Multi-Sized/dp/B072Z92QZ2/ref=sr_1_1_ssp
  4. Thanks! The Kapton tape I use works great. Benn using it for years.
  5. The Stuka aircraft is just about done. After I finished the weathering, decals, and top coat done I detailed and painted the canopy frame and then installed the canopy. The antenna line inside the canopy was made with 32 AWG wire. The antenna line from tail to mast was done with some EZ-line. The aircraft was then set aside (more weathering to be applied once it is set on the base) . I then started on the portable generator for the display. For the engine I added the fuel line and ignition wires. The cable to hook up to the aircraft was part of the kit. I painted it German Gray and weath
  6. This week’s update on the Stuka I finished the fuselage. Once the base coat of paint was completed I used the kit decals for the common decals and then added the home made decals for the squadron markings. The kit decals went on very well and they did not require a lot of solvent to sink into the details. After the decals dried I applied the clear top coat. Weathering was done. I used brown, dark gray, and black pastel chalk for the exhaust staining. In the fuselage I used medium green on the center of the upper panels to add some sun fade and a mix of dark green and black for panel lines
  7. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Work continues on the Stuka. The nose cowl panels have been separated, painted and weathered. The two lower panels that will be on the aircraft fit well once thinned. The panel that goes forward of the sight window did need to be corrected. It did not have the slot for the lower cooler hose. I will be mounting this on a base that will be accessorized to like an airfield. I already have the base. I ordered ICM’s German Luftwaffe Pilots and Ground Personnel set which has 7 figures (it arrived a couple of days ago) and I also ordered the Tamiya 1/48 German Kettenkraftrad whic
  8. I now offer decals for all the aircraft for certain ships/cruises. You can see the 1/350 Air Wing Decal Sets at https://davidsscalemodels.com/decals/1-350-air-wing-decals/ I am working on more sets as well. You can also buy the hangar bay decals with the air wing decals as a package set at https://davidsscalemodels.com/decals/1-350-cvn-and-air-wing-package-sets/ The Air Wing sets are two full 8X11 sheets that cover all the squadron decals for every aircraft that was aboard. Here is a sample of the first sheet for the USS Kennedy during the 1980 and 1981 cruises.
  9. Hope everyone is enjoying this holiday season and staying safe. This week was spent building and detailing the engine on the Stuka. Starting with the upper cooler the front and rear were cut out and replaced with photo etch replacements. The scoop for the supercharger received the same treatment of cutting the panel open and using the photo etch replacement. The engine block was assembled and I added some engine controls to match the reference photos and then added wiring to match. The engine was then mounted to the fuselage and the wiring was fed into the firewall. The kit did not have a
  10. The Stuka is coming together very well. With the cockpit tub assembled I worked on the instrument panel and pedals assembly. The pedals are photo etch. This was attached to the instrument panel as well as the belly window. For details I mounted the window panel in the open position. The Inside of the fuselage was detailed with photo etch details, weathered, then assembled. There were only a few small areas that required some putty but overall the fit is very good. The wings, rudder and rear horizontal stabilizers were added and the control linkage photo etch parts were added. The kit incl
  11. If you are building a 1/350 or 1/700-1/720 US Navy CV, CVN, LHD, or LPD I have decal sets that will enhance the look of the hangar bays and docking bays. For the 1/350 CV/CVN's I am currently working on decal sets to so that all the aircraft markings are accurate for specific cruises. Paypal and free worldwide shipping. You can check out the available sets at https://davidsscalemodels.com/decals/ Here is a sample of the CV/CVN hangar bay set Here is a sample of an Air wing set (sets are 2 full size sheets) Here is a sample of the LHD hangar bay se
  12. This week I worked on building and detailing the cockpit on the Stuka. Once the ejection holes were filled and sanded I added the photo etch details. Some reference photos I found online included a B-1 Stuka that was found in a forest and was getting ready to be restored at a museum. The photos show the cables and wiring had a yellow and white covering. I then added some yellow and white cables using 30 AWG wire. I routed them the same way the reference photos had them routed. The cockpit walls were then weathered using pastel chalk. The instrument panel was then detailed with photo etch
  13. For my next build I will be taking on the 1/48 Airfix Junkers JU-87B-1 Stuka. This was a World War II dive bomber use by Germany. I am not using the scheme in the kit. Instead the scheme will be that of the Staffelkapitan, 4th Staffel, Stukageshwader 77. It represents how it looked in June 1940 in France. I purchased the Eduard “Big ED” photo etch detail set (#49166) and will also be scratch building some other details. Starting with the cockpit I added the photo etch details to the ammunition cartridges. Then I detailed the seat with the photo etch seat belts. The cockpit floor required
  14. The Black Hawk is now finished and ready for display. After detailing and painting the main rotor it was mounted on to the helicopter. I ordered a brass nameplate etched with the information the client wanted and added the Army National Guard logo to a wood plaque that was painted with a desert tan surface and Army green trim. The main wheels of the helicopter were then pinned. I drilled two holes for the pins and glued it down. On the bottom side I added four felt pads so it can be displayed on any surface. While the kit itself had some issues the overall display looks great. This will be del
  15. This week I am near completion of the Black Hawk. The base coat was painted an overall olive drab. I made my own decals for the specific aircraft and used the kit decals for the general decals. The kit decals worked well. Once the decals were applied I added weathering with pastel chalk using dark olive, dark brown and black overall and some dark gray and light gray for the engine exhaust. I then did a top coat of matte clear to seal the decals and weathering. For the light on top of the tail, tail navigation light, and the bottom of the boom I cut off the body colored plastic and replace
  16. This week’s update on the Black Hawk covers the assembly and detailing of the fuselage. The rotor transfer case was assembled and detailed with photo etch then painted. The cabin/cockpit roof was then detailed with photo etch and some styrene rods. The tail rotor and main wheels were detailed. The fuselage was then assembled. The fit was average. It required some putty around the nose and the top just behind the main rotor. I dry fit the kit windshield and top section above the cockpit. This fit was very poor. The windows above the cockpit were too small to fit into the section and the windshi
  17. I used gunship gray paint with some pastel chalk to weather it.
  18. For my next build I am building the 1/48 Italeri UH-60/MH-60 Black Hawk. I will be building this on commission as a UH-60L of the Illinois Army Air National Guard. A few years ago my company used to have a picnic lunch around the 4th of July in our parking lot during work. At these picnics we typically had government officials and military personnel give recognition for the work we do. The military personnel would arrive in a UH-60L Black Hawk helicopter and land in the parking lot. I have quite a few reference photos of these from over the years. Anyhow, one of the Back Hawk pilots (who lande
  19. The Thunderbolt is now complete! This build has been a tedious but fun build. The numerous accessories that were added and lighting work well together to bring the aircraft from the Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) into an awesome display piece. The Tamiya kit itself was nice the way it was designed to be built. It made adding the LED’s and fiber optic lines a little easier. While many of the decals for the particular scheme were homemade, the kit decals I used were very good. They went down nicely. I then carefully packed up the aircraft, test cart, and a CD filled with over 250 high resol
  20. This weekly update for the A-10 Thunderbolt II covers the power cart and most of the weapons. So the Hasegawa accessory kit came with two carts. The A/M32A-60A generator and a TTU-228/E Hydraulic test stand. I used the TTU-228 as it was large enough to hold the 9V battery. The cart was detailed with the wires and hoses that came with the kit. The top panel of the cart sits in between the side rails so it kind of clips in. I had to extend it to match the modification I did to the cart. It was then painted and decals added. Then a final coat of matte clear coat was sprayed. I then assembled the
  21. The A-10 Thunderbolt II is heading into the final stages of the build. The aircraft was painted and the custom decals to match the combat simulator scheme were added. The Master Model was then assembled and installed. This accessory set also comes with a brass pitot tube for the wing. The hole in the wing was too large for the brass one so I filled the hole and re-drilled it the correct size. I was searching around the internet and stumbled upon a fellow modeler who used a glow-in-the-dark paint that he used for the formation lights (nicknamed “Slime Lights”). I looked up paints and found
  22. This week the wing tip lights were placed. I made an optic coupler to go from a PICO sized LED into a .5mm fiber optic line. One wing has a red LED and one has a green LED. Then the fun part, the wings and tail assembly need to be installed before the fuselage halves so the wiring and optic lines could be routed properly. I added weight to the node area so it will sit on the landing gear correctly then carefully put the fuselage together. The main gear was then detailed and installed and the engine assembly was built up, painted, detailed and exhaust was weathered. Once installed on the fusel
  23. Let there be light! This week’s work on the Thunderbolt II is installing the aircraft lights. Starting with the navigation lights there are five locations. The locations are the aft of the fuselage, each side of the tails, the dorsal light and the belly light. The kit provides a clear lens for the tail which is 1mm in diameter. So to start I drilled a 1mm hole all the way into the fuselage cavity. The clear lens was placed and then a 1mm fiber optic line was placed against it. For the belly light a 1mm hole was drilled and a piece of styrene stock was added to provide strain relief. I then us
  24. This week on the A-10 Thunderbolt II I detailed and assembled the cockpit. I completed the details on the instrument panel and the side panels. I decided used a QuickBoost resin ejection seat as the kit seat was very incorrect. I then dug thru my 1/48 figures and found a very good detailed pilot. The pilot was painted to match the pilot used in the simulator. I made the squadron arm patch and helmet logo decals using the artwork from the simulator and painted the helmet red with tiger stripes to match as well. While the pilot was drying, I added some photo etch details to the nose wheel strut
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