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Wolfman63

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Everything posted by Wolfman63

  1. More progress on the Hellcat Nightfighter. I built up the main landing gear and ran a wire on each one to simulate the wiring for the landing gear. I drilled a hole in the hub and the bottom of the tire. The wire was strapped to the strut with some photo etch bands and routed into the hub, thru the tire, and out the bottom. This is done so I can rum the wire thru the base to the power source. The landing gear was attached to the wing and the wire was routed to the fuselage. I have to attach the wings to the fuselage halves before closing up the fuselage due to the wiring and fiber optics used
  2. This update covers the instrument panel. The photo etch set gives you a clear film with the black part of the gauges printed on it as well as the photo etch panel. I took the kit panel and drilled out all the gauges then sanded the panel to half its thickness. Due to the shape of the panel I decided to make three separate “light boxes”. Each light box will have its own Pico size red LED. Using some sheet styrene I made the light boxes .5” deep. The back wall has the LED attached with acrylic gel. I then painted the back of the film with two coats of flat white. I glued the film to the panel
  3. This build is the 1/48 Eduard F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter. This is Eduard’s “Weekend Edition” so it comes with some resin detail accessories like radar pod, gun barrels, exhaust pipes, and under wing antenna. I will also be adding Eduard’s photo etch cockpit detail set. I will be using the decals for VF(N)-90 that was aboard the USS Enterprise in 1945. This scheme is one of the scheme’s that comes in the kit. It will also be mounted on a Eureka XXL resin base that looks like the Enterprise flight deck. While this sounds like one of my typical builds, I’ve decided to change it up. This air
  4. The Polish Air Force Mi-24D is finished. This was a fun build. There were some minor issues like the main rotor blades and the kit definitely requires accessories to bring in details. But the kit went together well and the accessories did not require any major modifications to fit. The Caracal decals went on very well. Thanks for following along. You can see all the photos and details from the start in my build log at https://davidsscalemodels.com/build-log/1-48-mi-24-hind-helicopter/
  5. The Polish Air Force HIND is almost finished. The fuselage has been painted and decals have been applied. I then scratch built the CHAFF /flare housings for under the tail. I used some styrene sheets and drilled the edges for the tubes, added some spare photo etch details, and finally some 32 gauge black wire for the cables. These were then painted aluminum and all 4 were mounted and wired. The side door was installed in the open position so the cabin can be seen. I then lightly weathered it and added the exhaust stains. Finally the matte top coat was applied. The main rotors were then pa
  6. More work done on the Mi-24. To start with there are some screened areas on the tail. After a quick search of my spare photo etch stash and I was able to locate some. I then worked on the engine exhaust. The seams were smoothed out using putty then painted with Model Master Jet Exhaust. Once dry I weathered the outside with brown and black pastel chalk and the inside was done with just black. I did not paint the lower engine section as these will not be seen. The upper section was painter and detailed with wire for cables and hoses. The tail rotor was then detailed with some wire for the hydr
  7. This next build I will be building the 1/48 Revell Mi-24D HIND Helicopter. For detailing I am using the Pavla Models resin cockpit set and the Master Model 12.7 machine gun and DUAS Probe set. For the scheme I will be using Caracal’s “Last Hinds of NATO” (#48104) decal set for the Polish Air Force in 2014 for the Mi-24D. Starting with the instrument panel, the resin panel has many fine details. This required some very tedious detail painting of the gauges, knobs, and switches. Then the same goes for the many side panels in the cockpit tub for the two positions.. The seats were then detail
  8. I am looking for a 1/350 USS Ohio Submarine kit. I believe Dragon and Italeri both did one (same mold?) Please contact me if you have one you are willing to part with. Thanks!
  9. The ”Snoopy Sniper” has now been finished. With the canopy detailed, painted and installed the aircraft is now ready for the display shelf. One thing I needed to do also was to change the fins n the back of the wing tip tanks. I had the long fin pointing out and the long fin points in. With careful surgery I was able to correct this. As for the kit itself, aside from the dash issue it went very well. The Caracal decals were great. They went on very well with no problems. I used Mission Models paint for the scheme. The fit of the kit is good. You will need to pay attention to the left wing. I h
  10. The work continues on the 48 F-104C Starfighter. This build is moving along very well. After assembling the fuselage I cut out a section under the engine for a photo etch duct. Then on the exhaust cone I added photo etch vane arms. More photo etch details were then added to the nose gear bay. They included wiring and hoses and the bay door mechanicals. The exhaust cone was painted and weathered with pastel chalk and then installed. After adding the landing gear, rear duct, wings and intake sections the fuselage was ready for the tri-color camouflage. The reference photos I used show vario
  11. I did not mask the canopy. All canopy frame painting was done by hand then cleaned up with a toothpick.
  12. For my next build I will be building Hasegawa’s 1/48 F-104C Starfighter. This will be detailed with the Eduard photo etch. For the scheme I am building it as a Viet Nam aircraft. Caracal decals has a nice set (#CD48102) that includes 9 different markings. Three of them are the typical silver version that were part of the initial deployment and 6 of them have the Viet Nam camouflage scheme. I will be doing the camouflage version of the “Nancy J / Snoopy Sniper” (Aircraft 56-0891) that was stationed at Udorn Royal Thai Air Force Base in Thailand in 1966. Starting off with the ejection seat,
  13. The B7A2 “Grace” is now complete! This was a very nice kit to build. Everything fit together nicely. The instructions were laid out well t make the build go smoothly. The decals went on well. Just a couple of things about the decals, First the dark green outline on the fuselage and upper wings are an identical match to the Tamiya XF11 J.N. Green paint so they blend in too well, and the insignia’s are two part decals. Getting them line up requires careful alignment. I would recommend applying the base decal first and let it dry then place the top red one. This will keep the bottom from shifting
  14. The build of this kit is going well. With the cockpit assembled I installed into the fuselage. The fuselage fit together very well with only some minor putty in the seams. I then painted and detailed the engine. The photo etch set provides the ignition wiring so this was added. I mounted the engine, cowl, and the propeller hub. The hub is very large and hides most of the view of the engine. The wings were assembled and the landing gear added. I base coated the underside and then started work on the torpedo details. The plastic fins and propellers were replaced with the photo etch replacem
  15. My next build is the 1/48 Hasegawa Aichi B7A2 (Grace) Attack Bomber. It was a Japanese dive bomber/torpedo aircraft with a gull wing configuration. I will be building it as the torpedo version from the 752nd Naval Flying Group. As usual the cockpit is always the first thing that gets built and detailed. I did not like the kit instrument panel and the Eduard gauge film lacked character. So I went online and found two photos of a B7 instrument panel and made a decal of it. I then sanded the kit panel and painted it white. Added the decal then used the top part of the photo etch panel and then pa
  16. The ERA-3B Skywarrior has been finished. This was an interesting kit to build. Some of the things to watch for if you build this are some of the antennas are not included I the kit. The main landing gear can be challenging as noted before. The side APUs will need to be modified. If you mount them as the kit has them they sit way too close to the fuselage. I trimmed off the mount and used a styrene rod to move them a little farther from the fuselage. It is nice that they included the ELINT section, however you can barely see it thru the small window. The decals were very good. They laid down we
  17. This week’s update covers a lot. With the current virus situation I have more time on the bench. To begin with I used the photo etch accessories to detail the main gear bays, The air brakes, the rear wheel bay, and the tail hook area. I then noticed on the reference photos there is a scoop aft of the air brake on the starboard side. The kit provides a very crude representation of this. I trimmed the edge then scratch built the intake vanes. The kit comes with detailed engines so I built them up and added some detailed plumbing with some wire then built up the engine assembly. Fir the exhaust
  18. This next build is Trumpeter’s 1/48 ERA-3B of VAQ-33. This is being built for a Chief Petty Officer who was part of the air crew. The Douglas A-3 Skywarrior was originally built as a jet bomber in the 1950’s. It evolved into a few variants. The KA-3 was used as a refueling craft. The ERA-3B was an ELINT (Electronic Intelligence) role used in Viet Nam and for many years during the Cold War. It performed briefly during the Gulf War then was finally retired in September 1991. I will be adding photo etch details from Eduard. Starting with the cockpit I detailed the 3 seats, rear bulkhead, das
  19. This week’s update covers the final assembly as well as the completed build of the Buffalo representing VS-102. The fuselage was assembled and detailed. The prop was assembled and painted and the light gray was base coated. I applied the decals which were not bad. A little thicker than I like but they laid down and conformed to the surface well. The canopy was polished and painted as well as the underside windows. And this is negative side of this kit. The windows on the belly are a very poor fit. I filled the gaps with styrene which makes it less noticeable but once the gaps were filled it st
  20. This week I used the Quickboost resin engine in place of the kit engine. The first thing I did was use 32awg wire to add the ignition wires. They were then painted dark brown. A 28awg wire was added to represent the hub oil line and some photo etch engine labels were added to the hub. The engine was detail painted. Finally, for the pushrods I used 32awg wire but did not strip off the black sleeving. A quick light dusting with black chalk was added to give the engine a little grime. The engine was then mounted into the fuselage. For the cowl I had to trim down the upper and lower cowl ducts so
  21. Eduard is having an Online Model contest. I have entered this model. Click on like and "Like" all 3 photos for entry SL014. Thanks!
  22. I do not use washes. I use pastel chalk for weathering, and yes it was used on the walls and seat . https://davidsscalemodels.com/tips-and-tricks/weathering-with-pastel-chalk/
  23. This build is the 1/48 scale Tamiya Brewster Buffalo. I will be building it as the US Navy F2A version. The aircraft will represent VS-201 that was aboard the USS Long Island AVG-1. I will be adding a resin engine from Quick Boost as well as Eduard photo etch set. Starting with the cockpit I detailed the side walls and then the seat and dash. The rear bulkhead had 2 injection areas. Not sure why they set it up for the front side instead of the back, but a little putty solved the issue. After the seat and dash were done I detailed the pedals and then assembled the cockpit into the fuselage and
  24. I used shrink tubing like for electrical wiring. Shrink one end for the barrel and leave other end to go into the turret. You can buy it on amazon in various sizes for all scales. They come in colors. I used white on my Bismarck. You can even still move the barrels. Here is a photo of the Bismarck I did.
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